JULY 27 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
477 
$or <Monmt. 
CONDUCTED BY MISS FAITH BIPLEY. 
ON BROADWAY. 
See ! Younx America, his active arms 
With bundles laden. 
Escorting in a slipshod kind of way 
A pretty maiden. 
Often she drops a yard or two behind 
Before he's misssd her. 
Ah ! her relationship is plain— 
His sister. 
And dose behind the couple we have seen 
Appeal's another— 
A young man with a venerable dame— 
Of course, his mother ; 
For he has with a patronizing air 
Her ear enlisted. 
And tells her thjugs of which she was aware 
Ere he existed. 
Another pair, wbc* walking far apart. 
Scorn conversation. 
He eyeing all the young and blooming girls 
With admiration ; 
She with a weary air. and loaded down 
With goods he should have carried, 
Seems fl lied with care; alas! the fact is clear. 
These two are married. 
One couple more—their hands aro slyly clasped. 
They seem devoted. 
The glances of sardonic passers-by 
Are all unnoted. 
Her eyes—the color of the radiant sky 
So bright above us— 
Look fondly into his. Oome, let us go, 
These two are lovers! [,V. F. Sun. 
FASHION NOTES. 
The fuvor with which ladles have this season 
regarded costumes of washable goods has stimu¬ 
lated merchants to a display of many elegant 
novelties in this line of goods, aud the prices at 
which they are offered tempt a woman to spend 
all her pin-money In buying up a stock of these 
beautiful materials. 
in orgaudles, TiUeue, new gold, beige and Ua- 
vanne tints are the newest, although pale-blue, 
rose, lavender and white are as popular as ever. 
On tinted grounds, the pattern Is generally In the 
darkest shade of the same and In graceful clusters 
of bloB8omB, trailing foliage, sprayB or rose-leaves 
In natural dimensions, wheat-heads, roee-buds, 
bouquets, &c. 
Lawns with white grounds have gay little buds 
and blossoms, delicate vines, dainty grain-heads 
and starry flowerets In blue, black, purple, brown, 
green, drab, pink, etc., and are generally edged 
atone side with a faney border, Introducing the 
color of the pattern with or without gay tints. 
Lawns and organdies also come with unbroken 
grounds In white or tints, with borders represent 
lng gay wreaths on black or dark grounds, or else 
“ lace pattern.” borders, either being as pretty as 
one could desire. 
6342 6243 
Bordered and unborderod lawns and organdies 
are about equally popular, the selection or either 
being more matter of taste than rashlon. Coming 
to the more substantial fabrics, we hud gingham, 
which, though it. is nothing more nor less than 
gingham, la robbed of half ltsold-fashtoned famil¬ 
iarity by new patterns and the new names of 
"Scotch Zephyr cloth” r.nd “Madras suiting.” 
Those of the plaid patterns which remain show 
the new colors In many of their comminglings, 
while others still glory In the harmonious blue, 
gray, soft pink, and pale yellow, which combined 
In a regular class pattern, produce such a mellow, 
yet distinct effect. A few new ginghams show 
bourette designs, and others shaded stripes; 
while plain gtnghams are presented to combine 
with the above patterns in accordance with the 
"iwo-shade" mania now affecting all costumes. 
In linens, there are a few novelties, Borne of 
which may he classed ns durable, and others as 
purely ornamental. Of the latter, there is a 
transparent variety called crepe batiste. It has 
the effect of very One Swiss In Its weave, but Is 
wiry and has the gloss peculiar to linen. It comes 
In pink and the most delicate tints of beige, blue, 
cream aud pink, and Is exquisitely falry-llke In 
Its effect when used for over-dreasos to silk skirts 
that are trimmed with It. While It will wash, It 
still must be classed as ornamental, as It loses 
Its delicate transparency through the process. 
Durable Batistes have dark grouuds, the color 
being a cross between the unbleached yellow and 
the drab shades. The new ones have tiny, clouded 
bourette checks of navy-blue, and while, or of 
brown and white, or bright blue and white cross¬ 
lines, and clouded yellow cardinal, blue, green 
and white lengthwise hair-lines. A bayadere 
bourette has Its Hues Incardldal and white, while 
other Batistes have patterns of 6elf-color, white, 
black, brown, etc., In honey-cornb pattern. 
Trimming for Washable Fabrics. 
The delicate organdies are prettiest when 
trimmed with themselves, and a dainty edge ot 
of either Italian or Smyrna. When the fabric 
Is to be used it la formed into gathered or plaited 
ruffles, edged at each side with narrow lace, of 
widths appropriate tor the portion to be deco- 
0215 
rated. Plaited ruffles are stitched on Just below 
the top, and straight ruffles are gathered with a 
cord also about an Inch from their upper edges. 
Two or three rows are placed upon the skirt, one 
on the polonaise and one about the basque, (If 
that takes the place of the polonaise); and gener¬ 
ally two at the wrists, and a standing and fall¬ 
ing one at the neck. When a fichu or mant.lo Is 
worn, one la about all tts edges, unless It has a 
regular neck, in which event two are used, the 
same as on the basque. 
It Is now a pretty fashion to take two or three 
shades of ribbon, about an Inch or an inch and a 
quarter wide and form natty bows, using one or 
two of the shades as lining to the other, so that 
the edge shows at one side of the loops. Short, 
sharply-notched ends are also used wtth these 
loops, generally being no longer than the loops, 
The lace upon the edges ot the ruffles may also 
have lta dash of color. Some of the Italian and 
Smyrna edgingshaving pink and blue borders, or 
the two shades mixed, or else having a mixture 
of blue, olive, rose, etc. The same suggestions 
apply to lawn and Swiss, both of which are 
charmlDgly decorated with frills and bowB 
In using borders to lawns and organdies they 
are applied either as a heading to the trimming 
mentioned, or as a border to flounces; and when 
the latter atrangement Is decided upon, the bor¬ 
der is sometimes edged with lace and gathered or 
plaited to ttolali the over-dress and llcliu. 
In white Victoria lawns, nainsooks, cambrics 
and other opaque white good3. Hamburg em¬ 
broidery, either white or colored is selected In 
preference to lace. In white a frill headed by an 
insertion Is generally used, and sometimes a nar¬ 
row edge stands from under the upper side of the 
Insertion. In colored, there la deep blue, pale 
6216 
blue, cardinal, pink, brown and black, either sep¬ 
arated or combined. These embroideries are used 
upon piques, ginghams and printed goods with a 
very pretty effect 
Many materials, such as piques, llnenB, ging¬ 
hams and prints are being cut In slashes, scol¬ 
lops, potnts or tabs, which are either bound with 
bias strips of the material or white cambric, or 
white braid: while the latter la put to a variety 
of uses, such as straight, rows, scollops, curves, 
Jacket and Breton outlines, and panel decora¬ 
tions. Bands and folds of the same or a contrast¬ 
ing shade, ptped white or dark cambric bold 
their own, and with the plain mentioned and 
other fancy braids, form fashionable flat decora¬ 
tions. 
Ruffles of the material are now generally cut 
straight Instead of bias and trimmed with bias 
bands or else plainly hemmed, or perhaps out- 
lined by rows of braid. A bias band for the head¬ 
ing Is generally selected, as It Irons nicely and 
produces a flat effect. 
Smyrna and Ecru laces are principally used 
upon Uueu Batistes and also upon ginghams, the 
tint of the fabric determining the choice of the 
lace. 
Plain linens are generally hemmed or slashed 
Wi X . 5—LADIES’ HOUSE COSTUME. 
and bound or trimmed with bias bands piped at 
the edges. 
Barege and Grenadine. 
This year back comes the old-fashioned barege. 
It possesses many advantages, among them Is Its 
6216 
concealing qualities. An old silk skirt maybe 
used for a lining, with many a piecing seam 
which this thin fabric refuses to reveaL It 
may be made over alpaca, or above a silk- 
dressed Silesia, without Injury to Its elegance. 
Bareges are not expensive, and yet they are quite 
as lady-llke as brocades or Mexlcalnes. 
Among the latest novelties la costly goods are 
grenadines, wtth bourette effects—chenille lines, 
knots, loops, and tufts, which are woven Into the 
tissue irregularly. They are intermingled with 
silks and made up Into polonaises. 
6261 
Among tUe Iron grenadines and bareges and 
among the beige buntings, real buntings and sea¬ 
side grenadines, much effectiveness of combina¬ 
tion ts secured by the uses ot both a plain and a 
plalded or striped material ot the same quality, 
a pale blue skirt with a blue polonaise of the 
same shade, striped or plalded with beige pale- 
rose or silver-gray, and having blue sleeves or 
other Uuermlnxllngs of the goods, make a most 
charming costume. 
Iron grenadine will be held In respect by elderly 
ladles, and also by ladles who wear mourning cos¬ 
tumes. Barege will share favor with Iron grena¬ 
dine for black costumes, and especially will this 
be true In dresses tor young ladles who are in 
mourning. 
Perhaps the most distinguished material In 
point of richness ot quality, and royalty of effect 
Is the “velours grenadine," as It is sometimes 
called. It Is a broc dett fabric that Is thin, but so 
fllled lu with (lossy or sat iny threads, artistically 
brocaded together, that uo figures a re distinguish¬ 
able. This material Is very costly and Is used 
but sparingly In combination with silk which It 
serves to illuminate beautifully. 
6264 
Vails and Scarfs. 
Made valla are straight at the top and rounded 
upon the fringed or bordered edge ; but owing to 
their inconvenient length, ladles continue to pur¬ 
chase plain or dotted, black or white net of the 
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