66S 
SEPT SO 
plants overhead three or four times a day to 
keep them fresh and from wilting. Re-pot 
your callas, using for them rough, turfy 
earth and rotted manure, through which 
water can pass very readily. If you want 
chrysanthemums to blossom in the bouse or on 
the piazza lift and pot your plants, and until 
they get well established in their pots be care¬ 
ful that they never lack for water, else flower 
buds will blast and others bloom imperfectly, 
and the plants will lose their 1 >wer leaves. 
Standing them close toget her will also denude 
them of their lower leaves. 
* * 
Keep Chinese Primroses, cinerarias and cal¬ 
ceolarias as cool as you can, but do not let 
them get frozen; do not stint them for water, 
and sprinkle them overhead every fb'e after¬ 
noon. Shade them faiutly from warm sun¬ 
shine and re pot them before they become 
pot bound, giving them only a oue-size larger 
pot, and rich but mellow loamy soil; what 
ever manure you use lot it be of earthy fine¬ 
ness. A cold frame is ex client Fill q iarters 
for these plau' 8, as in it you can keep them 
cool, airy and close to the light, and in the 
event of frost, with hay, straw or mats keep 
all safe and snug. 
* * 
Gloxinias that have flowered in pots 
should be kept dry, inactive and moderately 
cool, and when they have b?en thus kept dor¬ 
mant for three months or more, by standing 
them up to the light and giving them water— 
very sparingly at first—they will soon begin 
to grow afresh and blossom. But it is uot 
well to coax even the earliest of them to grow 
before January or February, if you have 
them planted out in a frame, lift the roots 
and pack them in a single layer in earth or 
sand, in a shallow box, and keep he i dry 
during Winter. Keep over Tuberous rooted 
Begonias as you would gloxinias, and those 
that were planted out may be lifted and stored 
in earth in the same way as frame-grown 
gloxinias. 
* * 
Repot your cyclamens into moderately 
small i ot« and rich, mellow loiuny soil \> ith a 
little eartb-flne miinure or leaf soil in it; 
keep the surface of the eorm a little above the 
soil. When potted, plunge them iu sand or 
ashes iu a sheltered place out-of-doors, but 
not under trees, or you tmy set them into a 
cold-frame or keep them iu a ! : ght, airy room 
window. Water but sparingly at first. La-t 
Sprinr-eown cyclam ns should have been 
grown ail Summer long. 
* * 
Tuberoses that show flower spikes but are 
not yet in bloom, should be lifted carefully, 
potted and kept in a warm place; fell others 
should be lilted end stored before frost de¬ 
stroys ihem. Winter them iu a dry, airy 
place. A sharp frost will not hurt gladioli; 
indeed, in mild localities and seasons they 
often prove hardy. When you do lift them 
tie them up in bundles and hang them on a 
nail in the attic or dry cellar. Do the same 
with Tiger Flowers (Tigridia), only be more 
careful to keep thtm away f/om the rats and 
mice. Or, if you wit-b to lid them of their 
leaves and stems, you may keep them in a 
drawer or elsewhere, or hang them up in 
paper bags. Lift 'be big, green leafed cala- 
dium8 as soon as frost is likely to come; cut 
off the leaves to within six inches of the 
crowns, then s'ore them in some dry, airy 
place where frost cannot reach them. The 
same may be s id of cannns, only these will 
bear cooler and harsher treatment, if need be. 
The Sumraer-bl ,oming Hyacinth (Hyae nthus 
candicans) is qiite hardy at zero, and where 
the Winters are uo harder it may' be left in 
the ground as if it w'ere a Tiger Lily; but 
where long and severe Winters are the rule, 
it may be better to lift and treat it as a glad¬ 
iolus, until you have satisfi d yourself by* 
leaving out one or two plants that it is hai dy 
enough in your neighborhood. As soon as 
dahlias are hurt by frost, cut them over, lift 
and dry their tubers a little, then store them 
in a dry, airv, modera'ely cool, but frost¬ 
proof place. Hardy lilies are best left out and 
undisturbed, with « mulching over them dur¬ 
ing the severer part of the Winter; but any 
of whose hardiness there Is a doubt, should be 
lifted, packed in earth, sand or saw dust, 
slightly moi-t, and stored away in a cool 
place in the shed or cellar. It is yet time to 
sow pansies, but if you have sown them and 
they are up, thin them a little, and when big 
enough transplant them about four inches 
apart into frames. Of course this is too thick 
for flowering, but in early Spring you can 
transplant at least three-foui ths of them to 
out-of-doors. If you have any polyanthuses 
plant them, too, in your pansy Iraiue, as 
they are pretty, free and earlv, and when 
cared for in this way last a longer time in 
beauty than wneu left outside to start late> 
and, with the increasing beat, pass quickly 
away. Many people are fond of and grow 
polyanthuses, some in frames and some in 
shady places outside; if you prefer frames, 
transplant them thither at once. Some people 
lift, divide and transplant their polyanthuses 
when they have done bloomiug, but that is 
not proper; so far as lifting and transplanting 
iu early Summer, when the flowers have 
pa sed, is concerned circumstances sometimes 
demand that, but polyanthuses should not be 
divided till the Fall, when they begin to grow. 
* * 
If your violets are planted out in the gar¬ 
den, the sooner you get them into their 
Winter conditions the better If you are to 
grow them in a frame, lift them from the gar¬ 
den low, divest them of runners, and in good 
fresh soil plant them into your frames, or, if 
yon wish to, pot them. But in all cases, give 
them lots of water and let them be fully ex¬ 
posed to the weather. 
• * 
Sow mignonette. Sw-eet Alyssum and can¬ 
dytuft in pots for Winter and Spring bloom¬ 
ing; the Blue Browallia is also a good plant 
for the same purpose. 
* * 
If you have not hoed them ou% you will 
now likely find lots of young Sweet Williams, 
Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves. Perennial Laik- 
spurs and several other hardy biennials and 
perennials springing up all around the old 
plants, and if you lift these seedlings and 
transplant them thickly into a previously 
prepared bed of fine, open, m-llow soil over 
which you can conveniently throw a few 
pine, spruce or other branches in Winter, you 
may bare a nice young stock of blooming 
plants for next year. But it does not always 
happen thatthe Sweet Williams and Canter¬ 
bury Bells, treated in this wav, will blossom 
the next season. A cold-frame is an excellent 
place wherein to w inter these little feedlines. 
And if you have cold frames enough to spare, 
a few Colliusias, Nemophilas, Gilias, and Sweet 
given this fuchsia it will attain a bight of 
from three and-a-half to four feet, and on this 
account it is valuable for exhibition as well 
as decorative purposes. If given plenty of 
pot room it will bloom nearly all the year 
round. 
Double Geranium M. Pasteur is a very 
floriferous variety of dwarf growth. The 
flowers are of a r ich red, shaded w ith orange, 
and are produced in large, globe-shaped trus¬ 
ses. With me it has not proved to be very 
satisfactory as a bedding plant, but for pot 
cultivation under glass it will produce very 
satisfactory results. 
The different varieties of lantannas are in¬ 
valuable for the decoration of the flower 
garden during the Summer season, and large 
specimens will give a good account of them¬ 
selves when plunged or planted out on the 
lawn. Three very distinct and attractive 
varieties are: Diadem, \he rose-colored flowers 
having a yellow center; Golconda, with very 
large flowers of a saffron color which changes 
to bright orange; and Meteor, with very 
small, pale yellow flowers which pass into a 
violet rose color. 
Passiflora Arcencel is a splendid green¬ 
house climber, and is also well adapted for 
open air culture during the Summer tnonebs. 
It is of vigorous growth and flowers freely; 
the flowers are very large and fragrant. In 
color the raised part is pure white; the center 
is citron-colored; the outer circle dark; the 
inner white, shading to blue. It is one of the 
best and most desirable of the passifloras and 
worthy of a place iu all collections. 
Geranium New L fe created a considerable 
sensation wbeu first introduced, on account 
of its being striped as w r ell as its being a very 
floriferous variety. It is a very distinct sort 
as well as an attractive one, the scarlet 
flowers being irregularly striped with white. 
When grown in pots and under glass, the 
A Sketch of the Shaffer Berry CIrown at the Rural Grounds.— Fig. 326. 
Alyssums, sown in it, should yield an excep¬ 
tional crop of flowers next Spring. Leon. 
-- 
NOTES AND COMMENTS. 
The three best double flowering geraniums 
for bedding purposes areBishep Wood, Sum¬ 
mit of Perfection and Henry Canmll. All 
these are of dwarf, compact habit, very flor. 
iferous and produce thtir flowers in large 
trusses. They stand our hot, dry, Summer 
vi eather without sustaining the least injury. 
Geranium Heury Cannell is one of the 
finest varieties yet introduced, but, strange to 
say, it is little known. The flowers are semi¬ 
double, of extra size, the single florets on 
strong plants often measuiing two inches 
across. In color it is of a pure, rich scarlet 
and the trusses are large and of excellent 
shape. ______ 
Fuchsia Earl of Beaconsfield is one of the 
most vigorous and continuous-blooming varie¬ 
ties in cultivation. Although the flowers are 
neither of good shape nor color, yet ihey are 
produced in laige clusters aud on account of 
its free-flowering qualities it is deserving of 
(special mention. With the treatment usually 
above remarks are perfectly applicable to it, 
but when grown in the open air it is about as 
worthless a geranium as one would wish to 
see. [With us the trusses are often of cliff, r. 
er,t colors—some uot striped at all. Eds ] 
Ageratum Mexinamim variegatum D a baud 
some varit gated bedding plant. The plant is 
of rapid giowtb and produces an abundance 
of blue flowers throughout the season, and on 
account of the foliage being handsomely varie¬ 
gated with green and yellow, it is really an 
attractive plant. It stands the hot sun with¬ 
out receiving the least injury but unfor. 
tunately it suffers somewhat during dry 
weather. On the whole, how ever, it is a very 
detirable plant. Bouvardus are commonly 
considered as winter-blooming plants only, 
but if good, strong plants are set out iu May 
and properly cared for, they will commence io 
flower early in August, uud continue to bloom 
until destroyed by frost. B. leiantha is an ex¬ 
cellent btdding plant, the dark, dazzling 
flowers often covering the entire plant, while 
the light scarlet flowers of B. elegans are of 
large size, and are produced in immense 
trusses. This is an exceedingly free blooming 
variety and is one of the best. 
Queens, L. I. Chas. E. Parnell. 
SHAFFER'S COLOSSAL RASPBERRY 
This was received from Mr. C. A. Green, 
of Rochester N. Y., in Miy of last year. It 
has made the strongest growth cf cane of any 
red raspberry we have ever tested for the 
second season. There are four canes over an 
inch in diameter at the base and over six feet 
high. The berries are of a rather dark pur¬ 
plish-red color w hen ripe. The quality is very 
agreeable to u«, but not sweet enough for 
many. We would say that when prepared 
with sugar there is more sprightliness 
and true raspberry flavor than in many that 
would be judged as of better quality. 
We are not prepared to speak of its shipping 
qualities, its productiveness or hardiness un¬ 
til we have tested it another year. The en¬ 
graving Fig.326,is a true portrait from our own 
specimen. In the Rural New-Yorker 
of Jan 2L—p. 37 w-e presented an original 
drawing of the Shaffer from a photograph 
sent to us by Mr. Given. Mr. Lyon consid¬ 
ers it a cross between Oecideutalis (black) 
and Btrigosus (red) raspberries. 
Mr. Roe’s opinion.— I do not consider 
Shaffer’s Colossal Raspberry valuable. It is a 
very vigorous and strong grower—moie so 
than any raspberry on my plae-s and the 
fi-liage is large and healthy. The fruit, 
ho ever, is of the New' Rochelle class. 
Berry very large, globular, of a dirty, 
purplish-red; hard acid flavor—poor. It 
is quite productive but I do not think it 
will ever be popiular as the appearance of 
the fruit is so greatly against it and the 
q lality is so poor. This season is its first 
year of fruiting and I do not think it tuffl- 
cientlv valuable or promising to place upon 
my catalogue. 
Mr. J. T. Lovett writes us concerning the 
Shaffer’s Colossal. “ Tuis new Raspberry 
fruited in perfection w ith me the past season. 
It is veritably a giant raspberry, both in 
fruit and plant. It is also exceedingly pro- 
1 fie, and to nil appearances entirely hardy. 
These are its good points. On the other hand, 
it is of a dull, uninviting purple color 
and ripens very' late. Flesh quite firm al¬ 
though sompwhat acid, rich, brisk aud re¬ 
freshing. From its large size, productive¬ 
ness end especially for its great excellence 
for making jellies and cannivg, it is 1 think 
of much value and worthy of general cul¬ 
ture.” 
Mr. J. H Hale tells us it is of very strong 
and vigorous growth and hardy so far as it 
can be judged by one season. It is very 
prolific—the berries ore large and as good as 
any of the class to which the Shaffer belongs. 
Mr. C. A. GRKhn says: “I judge that 
Shaffer’s Colossal did not succeed with you. 
1 get good reports from it from M. P. Wil¬ 
der, Samuel Hope, J. J, Thomas, W. H. An¬ 
ders-on, W. A B.trry and others in various 
parts of the country. John T. Lovett says 
he belitves it has come to stay.” 
Mr. A. M. Purdy, at our request makes a 
report of the Shaffer which coincides with 
Mr. Roe’s. 
Dflin) IjHsljan'tinj. 
A PLAN OF A CREAMERY. 
A creamery or dairy for 80 cows need be 
o dy a moderate effi.ir, depending for its 
arrangement very much upon the system of 
setting the milk. If the milk is set in the 
common shallow tin pans quite a large milk 
room will be required. If the pans hold eight 
or 10 quart«, 16 inches of shelf room will be 
required for each one, and as tbe milk must 
sometimes stand three day s about five feet of 
shelf will be needed for each cow, The shelves 
cannot well be higher than four feet and in 
three tiers, as they must not be nearer the 
ground tnan two feet. So that for 30 cows, a 
dairy room 2-1x16 will be required with 
shelves on thi Besides and a long table iu the 
center. An addition of 16 feet square will be 
needed for churning in. 
The following plan, Fig. 327, shows a conveni¬ 
ent arrangement. This building should be four 
feet below tbe ground, with steps leading 
down, should face the south and have a porch 
to shelter the door, then the windows can be 
put on the north side. Ths shelves are made 
of, 1>$xL inch strips set on edge and supported 
by rises every four or five leet, arranging 
these supports to buit the size of the pans so 
that no space will be lost. The shelves here 
shown would hold 38 pans or 330 quarts upon 
each tier, about one day’s milking for 30 cows 
on the average. 
Tae table iu the middle is for setting the 
empty pans on or for other purposes, of w'bich 
there are muny. The cream may rest on low 
benches in convenient places, so that no 
stooping will he necessary in skimming; the 
cream benches are best placed near the table 
