NOV. 27 
.snNi 
cloth. The yellow ot the gold presents a sharp 
contrast to the white of the silver and the slight 
Infusion of hlack serves to relieve It of the faintest 
suspicion of tawdryness. 
These cloths are designed mainly for screens. 
They present too pronounced a background for 
the advantageous display of delicate embroideries 
so that applique designs are usually employed on 
them. 
Two screens made of this material are shown: 
one of gold cloth with a Calla Lily and leaves ap- 
pllqued in plush, with cardinal plush bordering. 
The other of sliver cloth has a square of heliotrope 
satin In the center with a hand-painted design of 
a girl with a petticoat of pink and a robe In two 
shades of purple; the screen, wnich Is framed with 
a border of heliotrope satin, Is embellished with 
beautifully painted morning glories In pale pink 
and lilac. 
Lambrequins. 
Scallops are out, of date and lambrequins, whether 
for mantel or window decoration, are made in 
Eastlake style. Many materials are used In their 
construction, and the greatest possible latitude Is 
allowed individual taste In the matter of ornamen¬ 
tation. 
There Is a fancy Just now for using sets of scenes 
from Mother Goose as designs on mantel lambre¬ 
quins. A. popular one represents six episodes In 
the Ufe of Cinderella. The lambrequin, which la 
ot old gold sateen la arranged In panels and tte 
design ts outlined in seal brown Japanese embroid¬ 
ered silk. The panels are separated by bands of 
crimson plush. A broad band of the same mate¬ 
rial, and a rich fringe In cardinal, old-gold, seal 
Drown, Kile green and Watteau blue finish the 
edgo. 
“Puss In Boots” scenes are used on a lambre¬ 
quin of Turkish satin In two shades ot olive-green. 
The designs are filled In with bright colored crew¬ 
els and filoselle. A heavy fringe of olive-green and 
cardinal chenille with a rich headlDg Is placed at 
the edge. 
Curtains or hangings for grates should show the 
same colors and materials as the mantel draperies. 
The rods and rings, too, shou d correspond with 
the metal used la furnishing the grate and Its 
Large hats and bonnets, as well as very small 
ones are much worn. 
Plush bands are seen on the bottom of some 
plain skirts of satin or velvet brocade. 
Black Jet la used in fringes of every width, gal¬ 
loons, passementeries, (jntiles, cords, tassels, 
spikes, frogs, and buttons. 
Large glided hooks and eyes, little gilded ptgB 
are the sacque or jacket, the muff and boa; It la 
In exceptional cases aocompanled with the cap or 
hat; sometimes a cloak In some form Is substituted 
for the sacque with the neck finished with a collar 
which obviates the necessity of a boa. 
The sacque deviates slightly from the former 
make up, being somewhat more slender In shape, 
the change being affected by blocking In the cen¬ 
tre ot the back, making deeper curves In the un¬ 
der arm seams and the shoulders of the approved 
bight. They are made both single and double 
CONDUCTED BY MISS RAY CLARK. 
THE CHANGE 
Out of the long white dreeses 
And into the dainty frock*, 
Little bine shoo* with buttons, 
In the place of the worsted soots: 
No longer a holploss baby. 
Carried in arms all day. 
But a roatloas, mischievous fellow. 
Brimming with frolic and play. 
Getting himself Into troubles 
That seemingly have no end. 
Tearing ’• bid holes” in bis dresses, 
For patient mamma to mend ! 
Bumping hiB curly round noddle 
Which mamma’s soft kisses must ourei 
And meeting a hundred misfortunes. 
Which babies must learn to endure. 
Too soon I shall lose my baby. 
And do the best I can 
To welcome the magical power 
Which changed the boy to man 1 
Oh ! that the years were slower 
In rolling the months away, 
An d would that for many a Beason 
My baby a child might Stay 1 
I wonder bow he is dearer, 
As only a babe on my breast f 
Or changed to this roguish fellow 
Whose feet are never at rest! 
Is a rosebud any tho sweeter 
Before ’tls a full-grown rose ? 
Ah! the love that is born with the baby 
Must grow as the baby grows ! 
no. sirs. 
and elephants, glided spiders, beetles, and Insects, 
of various kinds are found among new bonnet or 
naments. 
no. 394. 
breasted, the preference being given to the form¬ 
er ; a square collar and lapels opening In a shal- 
*ow point at the throat. The fronts are slightly 
lapped and fastened with loops ot cord set on the 
edge ot the rlgnt aide, over large cross-bars. The 
sleeves although fitting more closely than pre¬ 
viously are not strained. 
Furriers Btlll advise the plain finish In sacques 
when first purchased, a bordering being held in 
reserve for renovation utter a year or more of wear. 
The average depth Is from 35 to 3T Inches. 
The cloaks are all trimmed aad la models, are 
In a measure modifications ot the dolman mantle 
cut deep and extending to within a few inches of 
the bottom of the skirt. 
The •’ Medlcls" ts the dolman modified; It has 
deep mantle-shaped sleeves curving to the back. 
In sealskin or lu silk with fur Unlug this style 
la extremely popular; the former are shown trim¬ 
med with black fox, Argentine fox, blue lynx and 
Arlca chinchilla ami are pictures of elegance. 
Tbe“Albanl," the Roide Lahore-a model of 
which Is valued at $375 —the Paletot and Pelllsse 
—8400, being the value of one style of the latter 
two-are or her forms Introduced. 
Fur-lined cloaks are still In great demand. Some 
of the materials used in making are Slclllenne, 
velvet brocade, oros-graln from Antwerp, and a 
new cros3-barred, heavy silk fabric oalled harre. 
The squirrel is usually patronized in lining. A 
good circular may be bought tor $10 or $ 30 . Those 
in wool armure with a silk surface are useful and 
handsome, and wnen weU lined, costs $75. 
The popularity of sets will be revived, being 
worn more than for many previous Winters. The 
velvet and cloth cloaks wtU need this addition to 
Insure completeness. 
To a certain extent the collar and cape will su¬ 
persede the boa. The small round collar, the 
medium large Eugenie collar cut off square across 
the front, yet long enough to oover the chest, and 
the large, Btyllsh pelerine, covering the shoulders 
nearly to the waist like a ooaclunan’s cape are 
styles seen In new sets. 
Muffs remain small. The round muff and those 
with a border of another kind of fur are the styles 
exhibited by the above furriers. 
The black fox pelerines cost from $45 to $60; some 
In monkey-skin and hlack hare, the latter a thick 
lustrous fur, cost hut $5 to $10, and a pretty muff 
to match may be obtained for from $i to $o. The 
capes are of great service and will no doubt be 
greeted with applause by persons needing partic¬ 
ular protection and yet wishing to avoid the 
weight ot long cloaks. 
Young ladles and misses favor the leopard sets. 
The pelerines cost $ 20 ; the smaller collars $r to 
$ 16 —the latter the most popular. Fawn-skins and 
chinchilla areother favorites. 
in trimming, the black rox Is the choice of ele¬ 
gance. This border for wraps costs from $T a yard 
upward. The black hare Is a thick, long, lustrous 
fleece; It Is a pretty, low-priced trimming, costing 
$1.25 a yard. 
Caps or seal-skin for ladles have large high 
crowns or are Indented and have a turned-up band 
all round. The former Is designated as the Hunga¬ 
rian, the latter as the Cossack. Blrd3, breast 
feathers and leopards’ paws are used for trim¬ 
mings. 
From the many styles and prices of fur apparel, 
selections can be made to meet the demands and 
circumstances of the majority ot wouli-be pur¬ 
chasers. 
ABOUT WOMEN 
Mrs. Langtry Is now living In New Jersey. 
Jenny Lind la fifty-nine years old, and the 
sweetest, kindest looking woman one sees In a 
year’s travel. 
The Empress of Germany Is a very charitable 
lady. She supports a school and hospital In Berlin 
out of her private purse. 
Miss Van, the American singer, who has achiev¬ 
ed such distinction In Rome, Isa Cincinnati girl. 
She is quite a handsome blonde, with golden hair, 
and Is only twenty years old. 
Isabella McCulloch, the divorced wife of Brig, 
noil, died in New York the other day. Brignoll 
abandoned her la Europe, ana about two years 
ago sbe applied for a divorce. Since then she baa 
supported herself as a church singer. 
Little Jeanne Hugo, the granddaughter of tho 
poet, has received from Professor NordeDskJold 
the girt of a paper knife made from the toot h ot 
a moose. On one side is this inscription : “ Pro¬ 
duct of the hunt In the Polar Sea, offered to Mile- 
Jeanne Hugo by A. E. Nordenskjold.” 
Carlotta.— The ex-Empress carlotta has fortu¬ 
nately lost all memory of her Mexican experience, 
never making any allusion to It. The unhappy 
princess In ihe darkness of her mind still retains 
the habits ot court etiquette, exacts all ceremoo l- 
oub adjuncts, even to a guard of honor, and always 
attires herself in a handsome costume for dinner. 
The only visitor whom she consents to see Is Queen 
Marie Henriette, who shows a kindly devotion to 
the invalid which does her honor. 
Miss anna Locibe Cary la having some new 
gowns made In Parts. Among them Is a princess 
wrapper of light blue cashmere, finished around 
the lower edge in points trimmed with silver braid. 
Below the points is a knife plaiting covered with 
Valenciennes, and above them a quilling of the 
same lace. A purple morning dress, made with a 
skirt and half-fitting sack is also irlromed with 
sliver braid, and is quite as pretty as the wrapper. 
A brown walking suit, a short dinner dress of two 
shades ot blue, are among the other gowns which 
the singer Is to have for herself, and not for the 
dear public, for which her finest garments are de¬ 
signed.—Cincinnati Gazette. 
DESCRIPTION OF CUTS 
FIG. 391.—DRESS-SLEEVE. 
The sleeve Is of striped material; the puffings at 
the lower elbow and wrist are of plain material; 
tbls Bleeve will be found very suitable for a velvet 
or velveteen dress, with the puffings In satin. 
FIG. 891. FIG. 392, 
FIG. 892.—DRES6-6LEEVE. 
The gauntlet Is one of the newest sleeves for 
Winter dresses; the top ot sleeve Is quite plain; It 
must he made of two materials; In our model the 
top and cross folds are of woolen hroche, the cuff 
of velvet or velveteen. The sleeve Is tight to the 
waist and fastens with six buttons. 
FX0. 398.—LADIES’ CRAVAT. 
The cravat Is formed of stripes of Oriental pat¬ 
tern ribbon and stripes ot black lace Insertion; It 
Is trimmed with hlack lace. 
FIGS. 394, 395, 390, 39T.—LETTERS: CROSS-STITCH. 
The large Initial letters are now very fashton- 
aole for marking household linen. To prevent the 
trouble of counting threads, canvas may be put 
over the linen and worked through, and the threads 
of the canvas drawn out when the work Is finished. 
ijrvutn- 
FlO. 395. 
When drawn, the curtains are hung 
which should be of brass or of Dickel 
Faith Ripley. 
appliances, 
over an arm 
plate. 
FASHIONS 
Skirts are worn fuller than last year. 
The Derby hat Is very much worn again this 
Autumn. 
Muffs are now made of velvet with a center of 
fur to match. 
Plush hats are very fashionable. 
Pale blues are very much worn In evening cos¬ 
tumes. 
Handkerchief crown bats are coming Into favor. 
Surah silk is much In U88 for bonnet strings. 
Tassels of all kinds, including lace ones are fash¬ 
ionable. 
Mull and lace fichus ot every description remain 
ashlonable. 
Old fashioned neckerchiefs are 
very popular with the ladles. I 1 • u •• =Ti Tj 
Ribbon Is not so much used for 
bonnet-strings as satin serge and 
solt crushable damassee silks. 
Velvet fruits are used as trim- 
mines for plush hats. fruw 
Easy simplicity Is the charac- r; _• 
tensile of moat coiffures. Hjyj j 
Fashionable coiffures make the % B-’s §»§§ 
head look very small. 
Ostrich feathers are lavishly used , 
for bonnet trimmings. 
Many evening bonnets are in l ELSE 
white or cream plush, with pearl r 
or crystalornamencatlon. |<$JjK 
Short sashes, very wide, and h 
made of double material, are much i ffigPlX 
used with plain round waists. SEafeHp* 
Crown braids and puffs are en- 
tlrely out of date, the fashionable 
coiffure being very flat and smooth. jg§|gP jjfe 
Cashmere-oolored buttons and 
belt buckles are seen on the Oriental costumes 
so fashionable at present. 
The newest flounces are shirred half their length 
and the lowest half Is pressed to form plaits. 
Prune or plum color. In dark shades Is a favorite 
with middle aged and elderly ladles. 
Basques ot figured or brocaded fabrics, with 
skirts ot plain goods, are very popular. 
Polonaises, Jackets, basques, overskirts, trim¬ 
med skirts and princess chesses are equally In 
favor. 
Cords, both beaded and plain, will be largely 
used In tr imming polonaises and outside wraps 
this fall. 
Oriental textures and effects will be very fash¬ 
ionable this season. 
EEVELATION8 IN FURS 
CORRESPONDENTS’ CORNER 
No more appropriate time than the present could 
be selected to greet the reader with warmth. The 
expressions clothed In fur taking the form ot wrap¬ 
pings, creates in thought the comfort to he gained 
Editor :—Will you please print In your paper 
VANITY FAIR PAPERS.-NO. I 
A New Material for Screen*, Lambrequins, 
Urate Curtain*. 
While table scarfs, lambrequins and curtains 
are made of all grades and varieties of goods, 
usually, it Is only the costliest fabrics that are 
employed as screen coverings. Plushes, silks, 
satins and velvets are regarded as necessities In 
screen decorations. These materials, rich though 
they be, are, however, eclipsed by the gold and 
Bllver cloth lately imported rrom France. 
The gold cloth Is made of gold thread and car¬ 
dinal crewel. It is woven In such a way as to re¬ 
semble a sheet of shimmering gold dasned with a 
suggestion of cardinal. The latter oolor Intensi¬ 
fying the general effect ot brilliancy. 
The silver cloth Is composed ot lntermlngllngs 
of gold thread, Bllver thread and black silk. The 
effeot is even more beautiful than that of the gold 
no. 393. 
by possession of one or more articles. The reality, 
however, is what we wlsu to disclose. 
For Information received, we extend thanks to 
C. G. Gunther’s Sons, 184 Fifth Ave., N. Y. 
Sealskin continues unsurpassed In popularity,and 
Is conceded the highest rank In the fur kingdom. It 
is the existing mode and a particular feature In the 
fashionable arena. Fashion has not dictated Its 
use to he confined to the sacque or Jacket, but has 
granted an extended license, the result of which 
shows cloaks large enough to almost entirely en¬ 
velope the person; this beautiful fur la also re¬ 
vealed this season in the deep ulster. 
In sealskin sacques tne pile turns upward, this 
laot serves as a teat for well-made garments. 
The pieces usually comprising the sealskin set 
FIG. 397. 
the “ flirtations,” especially do I want the “ hand¬ 
kerchief” and •* hand” flirtations; and oblige 
A Constant Reader. 
If possible, In a later Issue tho desired Infoima- 
tlon will be given, although we do not approve of 
the adoption ot the rules and hope tho knowledge 
Is desired as a means to prevent tne practice. 
_ r. c. 
Will you please give me the addiesa of a Fur 
Dealer in New York, and oblige r. w. h. 
C. G. Gunther’s Sons, 13 1 Finh Ave., New York 
City, are large dealers In furs. Their stock con¬ 
sists of great variety both of style and quality. A 
communication with them will in all probability 
result In satisfaction, Eds 
'**4*21 
nN-qjir 
« XHri 
