THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
early, but just before the ground begins to 
freeze hard. 
Club-root, to which cabbages are very liable, 
is a disease caused by the larvas of a little in¬ 
sect which so affects the roots as to cause them 
to become so nobby and swollen that they 
are incapable of supporting the plant, aDd in 
consequence it dies when about half grown. 
The presence of this pest is attributable to the 
too frequent planting of cabbage, cauliflower, 
turnip, or any other member of tbe Brassica 
tribe, on the same ground, as well as to the 
character of the manure used. Hog dung in 
particular, being full of insects, is very apt to 
cause the disease. Unfortunately, this does 
not show itself until the plants are about half 
grown, when it is too late to make another 
planting. Like many other ills, however, it 
can be prevented, and this is best done by a 
proper rotation of crops. 
The only other insect pests to which the 
cabbage is subject are the Turnip Fly and 
and Green Cabbage Worm. The former at¬ 
tacks the young plants when they first appear 
above ground. An application of soot or to¬ 
bacco dust, frequently made when the plants 
are wet, is an effectual remedy. The latter 
is a verj r serious pest; but may hi overcome 
by the use of pyrethum powder or the kero¬ 
sene emulsion. Where cabbages are grown 
as a field crop, it is an excellent plan to sur¬ 
round the field with a belt of rutabagas, two 
or three rods wide. The miller, which flies 
only around the edges of the field, will lay its 
eggs on the turnips mostly, and thus the cab¬ 
bage w ill escape serious injury'. For gardens, 
this plan is impracticable, so that to insure a 
crop, it is well to plant some early and close¬ 
heading varieties for the late crop, the early 
and close-heading varieties escaping iu a great 
measure the ravages of this destructive pest. 
For the early crop the seed should be sown 
about the middle of September. Sow very 
thinly on a bed of light, rich soil. In about 
a month the plauts will he large enough to be 
transplanted into cold-frames where they are 
to remain for the Winter. Place the frame 
on a bed of light, rich earth, in a sheltered 
situation, and place the plants in it in rows 
two or three inches apart each way. When 
established, remove the sashes in fine weather, 
and give air on all suitable occasions. In 
severe weather protect them with mats or 
shutters; but at all times keep them as cool 
as possible. If they become slightly frozen, 
keep them from the sun's rays, and thaw 
them by giving abundant air in mild weather. 
The seed can also be sown about the middle 
of March in a moderate hot-bed, and as soon 
as the plants are about six inches high, trans¬ 
plant them into a cold-frame, and treat them 
precisely as advised for fall-sown plauts. This 
is the method generally adopted, although 
the cold-frame plants are the best; for they 
are hardier, and can be planted out about the 
middle of April, while the bot-bed plants can¬ 
not be planted out before the first of May. 
For a success!onal crop, some of the second- 
early varieties should be selected, and sown 
in a hot bed about the middle or end of March, 
and the young plants treated as advised for 
the early crop. For the late or winter crop 
of cabbages, sow the seeds in the open air in a 
bed of light, rich soil about the tenth of May. 
Sow very thinly’ in drills eighteen inches 
apart, and keep clean and free from weeds. 
They can be planted out about the middle of 
July, wet or showery weather being chosen 
for the operation. An ounce of seed will pro¬ 
duce about 1,500 plants. The followiug are 
the most desirable varieties: Early Jersey 
Wakefield is the best and most profitable 
early variety in cultivation; the heads are 
very compact, of medium size and of a some¬ 
what conical shape. 
Early York is a valuable early sort, 
having small, heart-shaped heads, by some 
highly prized. Large Early Y ork is a variety 
of the above, having much larger heads and 
being some ten or twelve days later. An ex¬ 
cellent market sort, Early Summer (Hender¬ 
son), is the earliest large-headed variety in 
cultivation, and one of the best for market 
purposes, as it remains a long time in perfec¬ 
tion after heading. Heads large and of a 
flat shape. Early Ulm Savoy’ bears heads 
small and round iu shape and of a deep green 
color. Early Brunswick (Fottler’s) is the best 
second-early variety, and one of the most 
certain to head. Heads compact and solid, 
often weighing from 10 to 15 pounds. Early 
Scbweinfurt is another excellent second-early 
variety, haviug very large, showy’ heads. Early 
Winningstadt is a second-early variety, hav¬ 
ing very hard, conical heads. It iE an excel¬ 
lent keeper and one of the best for general 
use. Fielder Kraut is a very distinct variety 
of German origin, which has proved to be an 
excellent keeper, and equally good for early 
or late use. Large Drumhead is a late fall 
or winter variety, with a broad, flat head; 
an excellent keeper, grown extensively for 
shipping purposes. Late Flat Dutch, an ex¬ 
cellent Fall and Winter variety. The large 
round heads have a peculiar bluish-green 
color; an excellent keeper. Marblehead Mam¬ 
moth, is the largest cabbage in cultivation, 
under good cultivation the heads will weigh 
from 30 to 40 pounds each. Drumhead Savoy 
is tbe best of tbe Savoy class for a late crop: 
an excellent keeper. Red Dutch, bears very 
hard heads of a dark red color. It is much 
esteemed for pickling. An excellent keeping 
variety. 
The early varieties should be planted eight¬ 
een inches apart in the row, and the second- 
early and late varieties, two feet, th9 rows 
being in all cases three feet apart. 
Queens Co., N. Y. 
pomolugicttl 
THE NORTH-WESTERN GREENING. 
Slowly the list of apples sufficiently hardy 
to endure the changeable climate of the 
Northwest seems to be growing. Tbe latest 
claimant for public favor is an apple found 
in 1872 growing upon the grounds of J. J. 
Hatch, of Waupaca County, Wis. The tree 
is reported to be a very vigorous aud sym¬ 
metrical grower, and has proved extremely 
hardy, ranking in that respect with the 
Wealthy. Mr. J. C. Plumb, of Rock Co„ Wis., 
sene us some cions of this apple, cut Feb. 14, 
after the thermometer bad registered 22“ be¬ 
low zero, and the tree had endured the ex¬ 
treme changes of this season. They showed a 
growth of some 20 inches, were ripened to the 
tips, and exhibited not the least discoloration 
or injurious effect of the w’eather. The young 
wood is rather slender, short jointed, of a dark, 
reddish-brown color, partly covered with gray 
russet and filled with brownish dots. 
The fruit, shown at Fig. 93, p. 149, much re¬ 
sembles a well-grown Grimes’s Golden in shape, 
size and color. It is medium to large, ovate 
to conical. Color, a greenish, waxy yellow, 
with a very faint blush on the sunny side. 
Skin studded with small, brownish dots with 
an almost black point in the center. Stem, 
three-quarters of an inch long, slender, planted 
in a small, deep, regular cavity, which is cov¬ 
ered on its inner part with fine russet. 
Calyx, small, half open in a small conical 
basin, a little corrugated at the lower part. 
Core, rather large, filled with small, plump 
seeds. Flesh, yellowish-white, fine-grained, 
very firm and quite tough. Sub-acid, in good 
condition quite juicy, but when over-kept, 
liable to get pnnky. We have no doubt but 
it is a good keeper. Season, Jan’y to Spring. 
While we would not x’ecommend this as a de¬ 
sirable apple to plant where tbe Greening and 
Baldwin will succeed, we have no doubt it is 
worthy of trial iu the North and Northwest. 
At Fig. 94, p. 149, is shown a half section. 
flxrriatllitrul. 
HARDY PLANTS FOR SHADY PLACES. 
WILLIAM FALCONER. 
(Continued from page 139.) 
Under tbe shade of trees where the ground 
is hard, bare, and without an accumulation of 
rotted vegetable matter on the surface, orna¬ 
mental perennials will not do well. The drip 
hurts them more than it would on a grassy or 
mossy surface, and so too do tbe droughts of 
Summer. We may establish beds or masses 
of periwinkle and Lily-of-the-Valley, but in 
order that they may prosper, we must protect 
them from tresspas. Daffodils, Poet’s Narcis¬ 
sus, Grape Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snow drops, 
and some other Spring blooming bulbous 
plants, may be introduced in clumps any¬ 
where or scattered amoDg the periwinkle 
and Lily-of-the-Valley, and do well for a year 
or two; but an enervated appearance will 
soon show their need of more favorable con¬ 
ditions. 
Under the shade of trees, where the surface 
of the ground is of a soft, mossy or grassy 
nature, many spring-blooming plants, especi¬ 
ally bulbous ones, will do well. They mostly 
are well advanced in growth and bloom before 
the trees assume their leafy covering; they 
finish their growth in the shade, and go to rest 
in Summer. Day Lilies, Plantain Lilies (Fun- 
kiasj, Trilliums, Bell-worts, Wood-roof, Epi- 
mediums (Barren wort), Solomon’s Seal, the 
larger False Solomon’s Seals, Smilaciua race- 
mosa and stellata., Twin-leaf, common violets, 
and many other flowering plauts, together 
with showy ferns, do well, either cultivated or 
allowed to run wild together. 
If we are prepared to give them proper at¬ 
tention and 6ave them from being choked by 
ranker plants, weeds and grass, we may have 
many pretty little flowers, as Winter Aconite, 
Dog’s-tooth Violets, Wood and Rue Anemo¬ 
nes, Thalictrum biternatum, Creepiug Bugle, 
Vaueonveria hexandra, Goldthread, Rattle¬ 
snake Plantain, white, stemless and yellow 
lady’s slippers, heipaticas, dwarf gensiug,dwarf 
Cornel,Twin-leaf,Twin-flower.Mitrewort,false 
Mitrewort, Partridge berry, Dalibnrda, Fring¬ 
ed Polygala, Toothwort, Cliutonias, pyrolas, 
galax, star-flower, star grass, creeping forget- 
me-not, creeping Jenny, white or spotted- 
leaved dead nettle (Latuimn), purple cor y dal is. 
squirrel corn, Dnchman’s breeches, Spring 
orobus, orange-root, Jack-in the-pulpit, wild 
ginger, Grass-of-Parnassus, the fragratit. four- 
leaved asclepias, Pachysandra procumbens, 
or, better still, P. Japouica and its varigated 
form; Rhodiola, Star-of-Bethlehem. Guinea- 
hen flowers, Virginian and Siberian or pani- 
cled lungworts, water-leaf s (Hydropbyllum), 
American ipecac, bowman’s root, some of tbe 
creeping phloxes, as amoeua and reptans, 
Stellaria pubens, the American and Hima¬ 
layan mandrakes, Seduin Nevii and S. terua- 
tum, Spring Beauty, Winter Heliotrope (Tus- 
silago fragrans), bugbanes, and many others, 
together with bear-berry, winter-green, spot¬ 
ted winter green, and several vacciniums and 
other little shrubby plants found in our woods 
and mountains. But, mark you, every one 
of these will do better in an open, shady place, 
as on the north side of a house, wall, fence, or 
belt of trees, than under the 6hade of trees; 
in fact, although some of them adapt them¬ 
selves to shady quarters, 1 have had good suc¬ 
cess with them in open, sunny places; for in¬ 
stance, Spring orobus, Winter heliotrope, 
creeping bugle, epimediums aud corydalises. 
One of the best carpeting plants for a shady 
place is the ‘‘Russian Daisy” (Chrysanthemum 
Tchihatcbewil). 
On tbe outskirts of a shady wood or garden 
shaded by trees many fine plants may be 
grown to perfection—witness, most lilies, 
foxgloves, Soloman’s Seal, Pennsylvania and 
other pinks, globe-flowers, herbaceous spiraeas, 
Japanese, aud other of the stronger anemones, 
irises, Columbinesin variety, blood root, speed 
wells, and others. While deciduous shrubs of 
much account are better grown in open places, 
the broad-leaved species of berberis, also And- 
romedas, kalmias, and rhododendrons enjoy 
the shelter and little shade afforded by the mar 
gin of a wood. 
Where the ground is shaded by shrubs, as 
lilacs, mock oranges, and other gross feeders, 
few plauts will flourish unless the surface is 
cultivated, top-dressed, or manured, when 
many plants will thrive. In the case of less 
voracious shrubs, a* double almouds, weigelas, 
and iteas, the creeping bugle, ground ivy, 
epimediums, or Lily-of-the-Valley, will soon 
I form carpet enough. But, except aloDg the 
outer margin of belts of deciduous shrubs, I 
do not recommeud carpeting or interplanting 
with herbaceous perennials, as there these 
cannot live a happy life. We may except 
lilies of sorts. But along the outskirts of our 
shrubbery beds we may have a sod of par¬ 
tridge berry, studded with pvrolas, dalibardas, 
polygalas, twin-flowers, star-flowers, wood 
anemones or other little plants, ornamental in 
themselves, pleasing iu variety, and not in¬ 
jurious to tbe sod of Mitchella. A bed of 
rhododendrons, deciduous azaleas, kalmias, 
i sand myrtle, or Labrador Tea, may be car¬ 
peted all over in the same way, studded with 
* lilies—the taller ones, as Superbum and Aura- 
' turn iu the center, the medium-sized ones, as 
Batemanna? and Speciosum, next, and tbe 
smaller ones, as TeDuifoliom aud Elegans 
towards tbe front; and edged with Phlox 
arncoua, evergreen candytuft, or Large leaved 
Saxifrage, if the least shaded; but if in full 
exposure, with moss pink, white rock cress, 
stone crop, or the Japanese Euonymus. 
Where tne ground is shaded, as on the north 
or east side of a wall, aud sheltered, but not 
•overshadowed by trees, we can grow a multi- 
i tude of the choicest plants, as hardy orchids, 
globeflowers, anemones, daisies, hellebores, 
pausies, Maryland Pink-ruot, and, in fact, al¬ 
most anything. And this is just the home for 
ferns, blood-root, trilliums, polyanthuses and 
1 forget me-nots. 
Among annuals there are very few plants 
worth growing in shady places; the little 
Circtea alpina and Phacelia bipinnatifida are 
among the most suitable, and they are not 
worth growing. True, many violets, as the 
\ ellow Pubescens and the white Canadensis, 
scatter themselves around and act as annuals 
aud prefer the shade. Many other annuals 
come up aud blossom in the shade; for in¬ 
stance, Golden Corydalis and Sedum pulchel- 
lum; nevertheless, both do better iu a suuny 
place. 
Ferns are among our choicest plants for 
■shady places. Grandest of these, 1 think, is 
the Ostrich Fern; it grows so easily, spreads 
in bunches so far and fast, maintains its inde¬ 
pendence in the thickets, and bears lurge tufts 
of noble plumes. Tne cinnamou, royal and 
Clayton’s lloweriug ferns, make large clumps 
in moist and shady piuoes. Many forms of the 
Wbield and Lady ferns are worth growing 
among the stronger sorts, und so, too, is our 
common Maiden hair Fern (A. pedatuui). 
The common brake is rather rough, the Dick- 
sonia somewhat weedy, tbe Sensitive Fern 
too spreading, tbe Walking Fern miffy, the 
A Climbing Fern hard to establish, and the 
moonworfcs not worth bothering with. The 
Beech Ferns are neat, pretty, easily estab¬ 
lished and like to spread about, in leaf mold. 
The Woodsias, Hart's tongue and Cystopteris 
are prettv little ferns well worth growing. 
But all feru3 are pretty, aud, in their proper 
places, worth growing. Besides our commoner 
ferns, there is a host of garden hardy varie¬ 
ties, wherein the fronds are crested, tessellat¬ 
ed, frilled or otherwise marked. 
Gapes and Earthworms. —The Sun says 
that, at a 7‘eceut meeting of the Buffalo (N. 
Y). Microscopical Society, Dr. Walker, of 
Franklinville. announced that he had discov¬ 
ered that the eommou angle or earthworm 
was the best in which the gapeworm of fowls 
lived during one stage of its existence. It is 
now well known that the liver fluke of sheep 
in its cystic state lives Iu a species of snail, 
and is swallowed by sheep when pasturing in 
low meadows, where these snails feed upon the 
grasses and other herbage. Dr. Walker says 
that the earthworms are the host of the min¬ 
ute cysts of the gape worms, aud the chickens 
in eating the earthworms also swallow the 
parasites. It is not to be supposed that all 
earthworms contaiD this parasite, but only 
those found in yards where fowls have been 
bred or allowed to run for several years. It 
has long beeu known that fowls bred in the 
same yard for several years were more likely 
to suffer from gapes than elsewhere, and Dr. 
Walker’s discovery appears to explain the rea¬ 
son why. 
Potash for the Yellows.— A Western 
paper, in answer to the question how much 
potash to use aud how to apply it for peach 
yellows, says ashes will answer the same pur¬ 
pose, or procure kainit, aud apply 200 pounds 
per acre with 100 pounds of superphosphate, 
broadcast. As kainit contains about 12J< per 
cent, of potash, this would make an applica¬ 
tion of 25 pounds per acre, or, if the trees 
were at about the usual distance apart, it 
would give about two ounces to each tree, and 
this, scattered over 225 square feet of surface, 
would produce but very little effect. The 
remedy suggested by those who have been ex¬ 
perimenting in this line is kieserite, 25 pounds; 
muriate of potash, 150 pounds; dissolved bone- 
black. 450 pounds. Of this it is recommended 
to apply from four to six pounds per tree, and 
when the disease makes much of a showing 
more muriate of potash is to be added till of 
this alone as much as four pounds have been 
used. This would be fully two pounds of pot¬ 
ash to a tree instead of two ounces. While it 
is not yet an established fact that mineral 
manures in any quantity are a specific for the 
yellows, we thiuk the chances of cure are 
much in favor of the larger quantity, and 
wonder at the carelessness of one who would 
attempt to advise in a case whereof he has no 
knowledge. 
■ «■»«- 
TRUE INWARDNESS. 
Edward Q. Kiley iu the Planters’ Journal 
maintains the dignity of farm labor. He 
claims that it gives one an opportunity for 
mental culture duriug the Winter, and physi¬ 
cal strength during the Summer. The farm is 
a home where good morals can be entertained, 
without those allurements which are always 
predominant in city life. 
‘•Ever remember,” writes Goldthwait, “that 
for health and substantial wealth, for rare 
opportunities for self-improvement, for long 
life und real independence, farming is the best 
busiuessin the world."...... 
Hall’s Journal of Health advocates the use 
of beans as food. We venture to affirm that 
when the cost, percentage of nutriment and 
the wholesonuness of the beans are eonsideredi 
there is not in tbe world a single article of 
food that can compare with them. There is 
no other vegetable food that answers so well 
as a substitute for meats. While they buve 
so much to recommend them in other respects 
they have no rival in eneonomy. A quart of 
beans costing 10 cents, will furnish a family 
of five persons with food for a day. 
When the cattle kings desire to rent, Okla¬ 
homa is U. 8. Territory. Wheu poor men 
desire to horaesteud it, it is Indian Territory, 
and must not be invaded, says the Iowa Tri¬ 
bune ..... 
A mortgage on a farm is an eusy thing to 
plant; but a hard thing to raise, says the 
Grange Visitor, of Schoolcraft, Mich. 
It is estimated by competent authorities 
that tweuty million dollars’worth of Western 
farm mortgages are held iu New York city 
alone; in New England probably much more, 
says the N. Y. Merchants’ Review, and a great 
deal of trouble is expected iu collecting either 
principal or interest in many cases.. • 
Gold, says a Georgia editor, is found ia 
