224 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
Beans, squashes, and roots, we cannot justly 
complain of sameness. 
BEST VARIETIES OF CABBAGES.-HOW 
TO RAISE THEM. 
PETER HENDERSON. 
I would say that for first early the Wake- 
field is the best, and for second early the Early 
Summer. If for Fall use then the Selected 
Late Flat Dutch and Netted Savoy are prefer¬ 
able. There are scores of other varieties of 
cabbage, but these four in my opinion are hy 
far the best and safest for general crop in any 
section of the country. 
To one not acquainted with varieties, there 
is nothing so puzzling in looking over seed cat¬ 
alogues, as to see described 30 or 40 binds, as 
in many of them; not only in cabbage but in 
many other vegetables. The practice is one 
that I have been trying my best to get rid of 
for many years, and find that it practically re 
suits in narrowiug down the varieties, as in 
cabbages, for early and late, to the four sorts 
named I may say that in our business as 
seedsmen vre sell five hundred times more of 
the two early varieties of cabbage named— 
Wakefield and Early Summer-than of all others 
combined; aud the same might be said of the 
late sorts Just a word in regard to our man¬ 
ner of raising cabbage plants. It is yet time 
for many sections of the country' to sow for 
early crops. In fact the practice is now be¬ 
coming very prevalent of sowing for early 
crop in I lie Spring rather than iu the Fall and 
keeping over in cold-frames, as used to be the 
almost universal practice iu this section. The 
way we do it is to sow the seed in shallow 
boxes, which are made by cutting the ordin¬ 
ary soap boxes into three pieces, thus giving 
us a depth of about two i aches for the soil in 
each box. We use any light, rich soil for the 
purpose, sowing enough seed in each box to 
produce about a thousand plants. Seed sown 
in this way on March 1st, iu a temperature of 
70 degrees, either iu the hot-bed or greenhouse, 
will give plants fit for transplanting in about 
three or four weeks. For this purpose we use 
the same shallow boxes, putting in the bottom 
i ' about one inch of well rotted manure, 
over w he-i: * o place inch of any ordinary 
i: .t, rich soil, mi, >o, iii ug it so as to have it as 
ii 1 as pnssi >le: aud then in the boxes so pre¬ 
plan-: 1 i> about 15x20 inches, 
wa nu an rive: about 150 plants. The 
i > *r t n tired to the ordinary 
1 v ' iik'li. i jwever, have been pro- 
ttuA'l wit! "H. , as it would not do to put 
the boxes of tender plants on a frozen surface. 
It is very easy to keep the frost out of these 
cold-frames hy putting on three or four inches 
of dry leaves or manure before the 6oil freezes 
up, and placing the sash on the frames two or 
three weeks before they are to be used. In 
this way they will keep perfectly safe from 
frost and can be used at any time during the 
Winter. The boxes are placed in the cold- 
frames as close to each other as they will stand, 
about six or seven boxes filling a sash, thus 
holding about 1,000 plants. Flants treated in 
this way, by being carefully matted up, will 
give tint* plants to transplant by the middle of 
April or 1st of May. For our late cabbage 
crop we make generally three sowings in the 
open ground, beginning the 15tb of May, 1st 
of June, and 15th of June. The reason why 
we make three sowings is that by so doing we 
have a better chance of getting a better condi¬ 
tion of the plant to set out in July, which is 
the proper time to set out for late crop. I 
may say that in sowing cabbage seed we adopt 
the same rule as we do iu almost all other 
seeds that we sow to transplant from; that is, 
it is all sown in rows about niue inches apart, 
a man following in the wake of the sower, 
whether it is sown by hand or by seed-drill, 
aud firming each row in well with the foot. 
After this has been done the back of a rake is 
drawn over the bed longitudinally,after which 
it is again rolled down. In this way we have 
never failed to get crops of celery, cabbage, 
or anything else, during the hottest weather. 
Jersey City Heights. 
CABBAGES.—THE BEST VARIETIES 
TO PLANT, 
FRANCIS BRILL. 
For early, there is no better variety than 
the “true.” 
Jersey Early Wakefield, and when I 
hear a man say aught against it. I conclude 
he has not had experience with the genuine 
article. In fact, there has been a great deal 
of 9 tock put upon the market for genuine 
Wakefield, which is far from true. The de¬ 
mand for the seed of this variety has become 
so great that almost every seed grower in the 
land, as well as all Europe, has taken to grow¬ 
ing It, and but few understanding the fine 
points and chief characteristics of the variety; 
each and every one seems to have a distinct 
type of his own; while the European growers 
in a few years change it beyond recognition, 
aud from the engravings of it in some cata¬ 
logues, it would appear that some of our 
seedsmen are not familiar with the true type. 
This variety was introduced about fifty years 
ago, and was controlled hy a small circle of 
market gardeners in the vicinity of Jersey 
City, N. J„ among whom were my father and 
my uncle, two pioneers in the business. At 
that time, each one undertook to grow bis 
own seed, and as there were other varieties 
grown in this circle, the Wakefield became 
more or less mixed, aud as it seems to have 
been impossible to trace the stock down to its 
original source and renew it. the most critical 
selection for seed stock is uecessary to keep it 
any where near the genuine article. The tend¬ 
ency seems to lie to partake of the habits of 
the larger and stronger varieties with which 
it has become contaminated, aud selections 
made with regard to size, soon develop* a 
larger and later Rtrain—the fiue conical form, 
and the much more important feature of earl¬ 
iness huving beeu absorbed by the habits of 
the stronger species. The true Wakefield is a 
compact grower, and umy*be planted in rows 
80 inches a part and 16 inches apa rt in the rows. 
This will admit of horse cultivation one way. 
Gardeners near New York, where land rents 
very high, plant still closer, and work tffem 
entirely by band. This variety is extensively 
used at the South, sown in the Fall and 
shipped North very early in the Spiring. 
Early Etampks. —This is a French variety 
which has gained some popularity mainly be¬ 
cause it has had “Extra" prefixed to it. It is 
not any earlier than the true Wakefield; does 
not harden up to the point perfectly, and has 
not enough outer leaves to protect it in ship 
ping. It may be planted very close, and 
hence will become a favorite for small, family 
gardens. For second early there are a num¬ 
ber of very good sorts, especially among the 
various strains of Early Flat Dutch, the best 
of which I consider the “Newark,” which was 
the result of an intentional cross of the old 
French Ox Heart and Large Flat Dutch, 
made by my father for the purpose of secu¬ 
ring a second early sort of good size. 
Henderson’s Early Summer, so called, is, 
in the opinion of good judges, identical with 
the above; in fact, I have grown them side 
by side aud noue could locate the dividiug 
line. Under either name there is none better 
to follow the Wakefield, and even for family 
use this sort is valuable as a winter variety 
when sown late. There are some second-early 
sores of recent introduction, for which much 
is claimed, but my experience with them has 
been so limited, I prefer to withold criticism. 
Early Winningstadt is a very good cab¬ 
bage for family use, but for market purposes 
cannot compare with a good strain of Early 
Flat Dutch. 
Fottlkr'k Improved Brunswick produces 
a large, broad aud fiat head, with clean, 
bright green leaves. It follows closely after 
the Early Flat Dutch as a summer or early 
fall variety, and is also valuable, sown late, 
for winter use. The true type is a sure 
header. 
Large, Late Flat Dutch.—O f this there 
are many strains; in fact, almost every seeds¬ 
man claims hisown “superior” or “improved” 
stock, superior to all others, and these sub 
divisions show iu many instances marked 
variations, the result, uo doubt, of ditferent 
selections by* different growers for a series of 
years. A variety which was grown by the 
Jersey City market gardeners a great many 
years ago, aud which has been distinguished 
by the name of “Excelsior,” is, in my opinion, 
unexcelled hy any in the market, although 
there are some very line strains of Premium 
aud other sub-varieties to he had. This strain 
of Excelsior must not be confounded with a 
stock sent out comparatively recently under 
the same name, it haviug been in existence 
before the parties who have borrowed the 
name were born. 
Large Late Drumhead.— Of this also 
there are mauy sul.) varieties: The Improved 
American is very popular. Louisville and 
Harris's Short Stem, which evidently were 
originally from the same source, are very 
fine strains aud sure headers. 
Savoys. —Of these there are many sub¬ 
varieties, perhaps more so than of any other 
class. The Flue Netted is of fair size and of 
excellent quality—valuable for family use. 
The Perfection Drumhead Savoy is not only 
large and showy, but finely curled, and in my 
opinion excels all other strains in a combina¬ 
tion of good qualities either for family or 
market purposes. “Savoys” are far superior 
to any other cabbage iu tenderness and deli¬ 
cate flavor, and should be more generally 
cultivated in private gardens. 
Red or Pickling.—O f these the Early 
Blood Rod and Large Red Drumhead are con¬ 
sidered the best. They are used only for 
pickling, ure grown quite extensively on 
Long island—sometimes command very high 
prices, and are usually a paying crop. 
River Head, L. I. 
CABBAGE GROWING. 
WALDO F. BROWN. 
The best varieties of cabbage to plant Isa 
matter largly to be decided by the locality. 
Several questions must he considered in choos¬ 
ing a variety of cabbage, as climate, soil, aud 
general management. For example, the vari¬ 
eties that are most reliable for heading in 
Northern New York, often prove worthless 
iu the Southern States, or a variety that is re¬ 
liable to head on our strong lime stone clay 
soil, may prove unsatisfactory on a sandy soil. 
If any one is to engage in cabbage growing 
as a field crop, he should first ascertain the 
varieties which generally do well in his neigh¬ 
borhood. and plant the bulk of his crop of one 
or two such varieties, aud then experiment 
with others. There are probably not in real¬ 
ity as many varieties of cabbage as one would 
be led to suppose from the long lists seen in 
the catalogues, as often the same variety is 
sent out by different seedsmen undet different 
names. The cabbage grower should he certain 
that he buys American-grown seed, as our 
cabbages are usually much more reliable to 
head tbau the European varieties, mauy kinds 
beiug grown over the water for stock, in which 
case a large, loose,leafy cabbage is more profit¬ 
able than oue which has few leaves and a solid 
head. The following list comprises the best 
standard varieties: Early: Early Jersey, 
Wakefield. Henderson’s Early Summer, Early 
Wiuningstadt. Bottler’s Early Drumhead, or 
Brunswick Short Stem. Winter: Flat Dutch, 
Drumhead Savoy, Improved American. 
We have, in addition to the*above, some 
newer varieties which are likely to become 
standard, as, for example, the Louisville 
Early Drumhead aud the Early Dwarf Flat 
Dutch. There are also different strains of the 
Drumhead and Flat Dutch, as, for example, 
the Stone Mason and Marblehead Mammoth 
Drumheads, the first noted for its reliability to 
head and its solidity, and the latter for its 
large size. Most of our leading seed growers 
have a special strain of the Flat Dutch with 
their own name, or the word “premium,” or 
something of the kind, attached to it. 
Some of the varieties called Early will make 
excellent, winter cabbage if sown late, and in 
some localities they will do better than the 
regular wiuter kinds. The Winningstadt, 
Louisville Early Drumhead, aud Early Dwarf 
Flat Dutch will all give good satisfaction 
when grown for Winter. The cabbage re¬ 
quires rich soil, but can be grown on fresh 
land without manure, aud perhaps of uo other 
plant can it he said with so much truth that 
“tillage is manure,” by which I mean that 
fine tilth, and constant cultivation will, to a 
great extent, take the place of high manur¬ 
ing. Cabbage plants, if grown in the open 
ground, or properly hardened in the hot-bed, 
will endure a low temperature—as low as 12 
degrees, Fahrenheit—without serious injury. 
It is important to sow the seed thinly so as 
not to have the plants spindled; but if—as is 
sometimes the case —plants with long stems 
must be set out—always set them down to the 
first leaf. In lifting the plants from seed-bed 
first water thoroughly so that the fibrous roots 
will not be broken. Puddling the roots 
is much better than watering the plant, and 
if the puddle is made of half clay and half 
fresh cow dung, it will give the young plant a 
better start. 
There are three insect euemies which cause 
great loss to the cabbage grower: The garden 
Ilea, the root maggot, and the green worm. 
For the flea, prevention is better than cure, 
as they are difficult to poison as they do not 
eat the plnut but suck the juice out of it und 
kill it. Just as soon as the plants break 
ground they should be thoroughly dusted with 
plaster, or sifted ashes, or even road-dust, 
und this should be applied when the dew is on 
and followed up every two or three mornings 
till the plauts are ready to set. 
The root maggot has never troubled me, 
but the following is recommended as a reme¬ 
dy: Add to two quarts boiling soft soap one 
quart of kerosene oil, stir till thoroughly 
mixed aud dilute with five times as much 
water, remove the earth from arouud the 
stem and apply a small quantity. The same 
sprinkled on the heads is recommended for 
the green worm, but, I prefer Buhach powder, 
as it is effectual and is more cleanly and easily 
applied. A good crop of cabbage where a 
market for it can lie found is very profitable. 
The small early varieties can be grown—after 
allowing for failures to produce 12,000 head? 
to the acre and nearly half as many winter 
cabbages, and even the smaller uamber at 
three cents each w ill bring nearly #‘J00 per acre. 
BEST VARIETIES OF CABBAGES. 
CHARLES E. PARNELL. 
There are so mauy varieties of the cab¬ 
bage that it is very difficult for any person 
who is not acquainted with the merits of the 
different sorts to make a proper selection of 
the best, and I presume the reason why so 
many varieties are to he found enumerated 
in the catalogues of our seedsmen, is that 
some do much better in certain localities than 
in others; but still I think that the number of 
varieties could be considerably reduced with 
decided benefit to all concerned. In this 
vicinity the cabbage is extensively grown as 
a market garden crop, and the number of 
varieties that can be profitably cultivated are 
limited to a very few. 
For early crop the varieties grown are the 
Early Jersey Wakefield, and the Early Sum¬ 
mer; for the suceessioual crop, the Large 
Early Sehweinefurt and Bottler's Improved 
Brunswick, while for the late crop the Large 
Lite Drumhead, and the Late Flat Dutch 
are the only varieties grown on a large scale; 
but I noticed that the Silver Leaf Drumhead 
is gradually coming into favor. 
The Red Dutch, and American Drumhead 
Savoy are also planted to a considerable ex¬ 
tent for a late crop by our market gard¬ 
eners. The above mentioned varieties are the 
best that can he profitably grown for market; 
but amateur cultivators, or those who culti¬ 
vate cabbage for their own use or pleasure, 
generally prefer to add a levy more varieties 
to their collection; so they can add th** Dwarf 
Ulm Savoy for an early sort. Then if large 
cabbages are wanted for show or exhibition 
purposes, we must have the Marblehead, 
Mammoth; and the Early Etampes will doubt¬ 
less prove very desirable for homo use on 
account of its earliness, but I do not think 
that it will prove to be a favorite for market 
purposes. The FiJderkraut is an excellent 
second early or late variety for the amateur, 
as on account of its couieally shaped hard 
heads it suffers less from the attacks of the 
green cabbage worm than any other, and this 
worm proves to he so destructive where only a 
few hundred plants ure grown. 1 have at oue 
time or the other cultivated most if not ail of 
the varieties enumerated in the catalogues of 
our seedsmen, and I consider those above 
mentioned the best and most desirable for the 
purposes indicated. 
CHEATING THE C A HR AGE WORM. 
My method of raising cabbage and cbeatiug 
the cabbage worm, is merely to keep the heart 
of the plauts til led with lose dirt, which pre¬ 
vents the young worm from destroying the 
heart, and the dirt is thrown out with the 
growth of the plant. My neighbors and my 
self have grown cabbage in this way with suc¬ 
cess for the part five years. j. y. 
Constance, Ont., C. W. 
HOW TO SET OUT STRAWBERRIES, ASPARA¬ 
GUS, ETC. 
Haviug prepared the soil to suit you, draw 
a line where you want the row. Take a spade 
aud place its width lengthwise of the line, 
sink it deeply into the soil, and then push it 
from you aud pull it towards you. Now take 
the roots of the plant in both hands and place 
them faD-shape in the hole prepared for them, 
at the proper depth for each kind. Press the 
earth firmly against the roots on euch side 
and the work of transplanting is done. 
The advantages of this method are that 
with a single motion of the hands, the roots 
are spread out fan-shaped aud at a good 
depth, and the crown can easily be drawn up 
to the point required. A great advantage is 
that in the first hoeings or cultivating it is 
safe to work close up to the plant?, as the 
roots running with the rows will not be dis¬ 
turbed. GOGUAC. 
Ponte logical 
THE JAPAN QUINCE. 
A new use for any vegetable growth, either 
as food or for the dessert, helps the table; it 
causes an especial gladness when a fruit, held 
as worthless, takes Its place as a valuable rlly 
in the household. Such a fruit has been the 
Japan Quince. For years I have wondered 
why this fair, sound and toothsome-looking 
product had not developed uses such as make 
for its cousin of the common kind so ready a 
market. I have been asked a thousaud times 
what it was, and whether it was good to eat 
or to cook; until now I have only dared to 
give a negutive reply. 
It has always looked so plump, so free from 
rot. has so endured hapdling without decay, 
has been so resistaufc to frost, and even a 
pretty hard freezing, that it has seemed full 
of promise for some good place. I am now 
able to say*, from actual taste, that it is equal 
to the common quince so far as jelly aud 
marmalade are concerned. 
It has qualities which make it much prefer¬ 
able to the Orange Quince: “neither uioth 
nor rust” doth it corrupt, though now that it 
is found to have a value, perhaps the “thieves 
