4 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
$ax Mamnt, 
CONDUCTED BY MISS FAITH BIPLEY. 
Fringe, lace, plaltlngs, scolloped or slashed edges 
are fashionable decorations, but the prevailing 
feature of the present fancy is to trim one kind of 
goods with another; striped fabrics predomina¬ 
ting as decorations. They are cut crosswise, 
engtkwise and bias. Price of pattern 35 cents. 
to Improve the figure ot a miss. They are laid up 
in three shallow plaits at each back eige near the 
bottom and these plaits produce just enough of 
the po uter effect to be coquettish. The basque l§ 
DESCRIPTION OE CUTS. 
Fig. No. l.—The skirt Is rour-gored aud cut from 
striped goods. It Is simply' faced at the bottom 
and left perfectly plain. The two curtaln-poruons 
which turn back In revers are separately added 
and extend only just underneath the lower edge 
of the scarf above. This consists ot a straight 
width gathered or shirred at the center and har¬ 
moniously draped at the side where It and the 
curtains are overlapped by the edges of the back- 
breadth. The latter Is or oblong shape and Is 
draped so as to form a panter. The model of the 
skirt is No. 6737; price, 35 cents. The basque Is 
coat-like. The front is ot the ordinary basque 
depth and Is ornamented with long lapels. Tho 
back Is In square coat-tail stylo. The model Is 
suitable for any material made up Into costumes 
and Is No. 6736, price 30 cents. The hat Is of felt. 
No. 6757.—The material selected for the forma¬ 
tion ot the garment Is soft all-wool suiting, and 
the trimming consists of silk several shades dark¬ 
er. The front buttons from the throat to the depth 
of a basque below the watat-llne, and then each 
side turns back upon to form rovers that 
6745 
widen gradually toward the bottom. The closing 
edges are straight and fold under In broad hems 
and each side Is conformed to the figure by means 
of two bust darts. A cluster of six plaits Is folded 
In the back edge of each front, portion, draping it 
handsomely in punters, and drawing the reversed 
edges still further apart. Adjoining the front on 
each side is a aldc-back gore, proceeding front the 
arm’s eye and extending in the outline of a broad, 
straight panel to an even depth with the remain¬ 
der of the back portion, which consists of only one 
division, the curved scant through the center ter¬ 
minating just below the waist-line, where the 
fullness is formed Into a double box-plait on tho 
underside. Three upturning plaits are folded In 
each side edge a little lower down, and these, with 
the double box-plait, produce a stylish efTect. 
liice of pattern 30 cents. 
G748 
No. 6754. Ladles’ Cloak.—The front Is narrow 
and double breasted, with curving front edge and 
above the bU3t is slashed straight across as far as 
Its edges are lapped. Below the slash it is closed 
with one row of buttons and button-holes, and 
upon tho sides aro large, oblong pockets, with 
turn-over laps whose side edges are sloped off 
with pretty effect. A stylish, rolling collar Is 
sewed to the neck within a few Inches of the outer 
edge ot the front, whose top3 are reversed In fancy 
lapels as fax as the slash. The edges of the cloak, 
pockets and lapels are bound with silk braid, and 
the pocket-laps are laced with silk. Rows of but¬ 
tons and silk-bound button holes ornament the 
pockets and the skirt-laps of the back. This 
model is adapted to all the fancy and plain dress 
and cloak fabrics In vogue, and may be trimmed 
with fur hands, braid, piping, or machine-stltch- 
ing. Price of pattern so cents. 
No. 6747. Ladles’ Coat.—The fronts are la cut¬ 
away shape, and fall over a straight, double- 
breasted vest, which turns back In lapels at the 
top and closes In the usual manner, a row of but¬ 
tons being added on the over-lapping side. The 
vest-fronts extend to the under-arm seam3 at 
their lower parts, hut for the remainder of their 
length they are over-lapped by the coat-fronts for 
only about two inches. This process of uniting 
coat and vest Is productive of a very attractive 
effect. Fancy pocket-laps rest upon the sides and 
a rolling collar encircles the neck and torms 
notched corners whore Its ends meet the lapels, 
with which they are reversed. All kinds of coat¬ 
ings are made up In this way. The edges may be 
piped, corded, under-faced, machine-stitched or 
ornamented with braids. Price of pattern, 30 
cents. 
No. r>745. Ladles’ Overskirt.—The material is 
fashionable suiting, and t he decorations embrace 
bows, lrlnge and satin pipings. The tabUer com¬ 
prises two gores, which are bias at their front 
edges for some distance from the top and then 
sloped oil diagonally toward the bottom, so that 
they fall apart In Vaudyck shape. The bias edges 
are sewed together, and then three rows of shirr¬ 
ing are made, commencing about six Inches from 
the top and extending to the end of the seam, 
wrinkling the upper portion of the front into a 
soft, graceful drapery. The back of the overskirt 
consists of a single breadth of the goods, which Is 
rendered stylishly bouffant by means of three 
plaits folded downward In the side edges and 
tacked in the same folds at the center. Suit goods 
of any kind, from the cheapest to the most expen¬ 
sive, make up stylishly In this way. Lace, plait¬ 
ing, ruchlng, or any fashionable decoration may 
be used. Price of pattern, 30 cents. 
ter of the skirt, and is draped by plaits at Its back- 
edge, which Is of the same depth as the back- 
breadth. The skirt pattern is No. 6741; price, 30 
cents. 
6715 
No. 6746.—The fronts of this polonaise are so 
effectively curved at the closing, that but ono bust 
dart and uuo under-arm dart are required In each 
side. The closing extends to about the depth of a 
basque, and then the edges or the front are sewed 
together for a few inches and the seam shirred 
closely so as to form numerous soft, graceful wrin¬ 
kles lu the drapery below the hips. Below tho 
terminallou of tho shirring the edges aro sloped 
off with a Bllghtly diagonal effect so that, the 
edges fall a little apart. These, wrinkles merge 
Into throe plaits t hat arc folded under each under¬ 
arm seam, aud are located just opposite three more 
similarly arrauged In the back drapery. The back 
Is somewhat longer than tho front, and from Its 
mode ot draping, partakes of tho fashionable 
pauier style. All the lower edges of the garment) 
are bordered with a two Inch w ide baud of striped 
silk, which Is also continued up the frout opening. 
A band ot the striped material passes across the 
back In the outline of a pelerine collar, and pro¬ 
ceeds lu vest outline down each side of the front 
as far as tho shirring. A bow of ribbon lulls over 
the shirring. Tilts model may be worn with either 
a walking skirt or a train of moderate length. 
6754 ^ 
No. 6753.—This misses’ pauier polonaise Is made 
of suit goods and trimmed with platting of the 
same silk bands, and ribbon bows and the con¬ 
struction Is quite simple. Tho ornamentation 
upon the bust Is quite a novel addition and beside 
being very pretty in itself. Is an Ingenious device 
to Improve the Immature figure of a miss. A bias 
piece of the material Is shirred tour times at the 
top and turned la at the bottom for about an inch 
and shirred three times. The topis then inserted 
in the shoulder seams close to the neck, aud the 
bottom extends down the front by the closing to a 
little below the top or the dart. A piped military 
collar completes the neck aud a bow is fastened 
at tho throat. Price of pattern •.>:> cents. 
No. fitts—This misses' basque with vest is made 
ot plain goods and trimmed with striped material. 
The front is overlaid with cutaway jacket portlc ns, 
which aro sawed tn with the shoulder and under¬ 
arm seams. These jacket portions extend to 
within an inch of the neck at ike shoulder seams, 
and by their curved outlines are especially adapted 
6747 
No. 2 .—'This costume Is composed of two gar 
meuts, a skirt and waist. The material repre¬ 
sented is a soft, all-wool cameTs-halr, trimmed 
with bands ot a contrasting shade. The front and 
sides of the skirl, are laid In side-plaits from the 
belt to the bottom, and before the plaits are folded 
five bias bands are stitched upon the material that 
is to be used. After the plaits are laid, they are 
pressed to position aud tapes fastened upon the 
under side. The upper part of tho tuck-breadth 
is perfectly plain, but the visible portion Is plaited 
to correspond with the remainder and similarly 
ornamented, The drapery Is a gracelul modifica¬ 
tion ot the ptinier style, and consists of two front- 
portions and a back-portion. Each front-portion 
descends in curtain style from the belt at the cen- 
The waist has a platted body and a plain yoke 
and closes at the hack. It Is completed with a 
belt and has a standing collar. Sometimes the 
waist and drapery are alike and contrast with the 
skirt. The wal3t model is Xo. 6740; price, 20 cents. 
No. 3.—This costume is a Princess, made to 
cling to the figure. Pointed straps of silk proceed¬ 
ing from openings made In the skirt la front of the 
outer plaits, cross the top of the plaits and are 
buttoned together over the middle one with a 
button and button-hole. The front, which is cut 
on a fold of the goods, is faced from neck to hem 
with silk to simulate a plastron, the facing being 
continued about the neck in the shape ol a deep, 
round collar. The plastron Is further outlined by 
a narrow fold ot silk neatly applied just outside its 
margin, and the neck is completed by a standing 
oollar of the goods. A round, silk cuff-facing, sur¬ 
mounted by a narrow silk fold, trims the coat 
sleeve neatly- Three similar folds decorate the 
skirt back of the plastron, bet ween which and the 
box-platted back-skirt the upper fold Is surmounted 
by perpendicular bands of silk about three Inches 
long, and placed at equal distances apart. Lace, 
ruffles, plaltlngs or any decorations preferred, may 
be used Instead of the bands. This costume Is 
made of cashmere of a deep wine shade, but the 
model Is adapted to all sorts of plain and figured 
fabric. The pattern Is No. 6756, price 25 cents. 
The hat Is a wine-colored felt, trimmed with a silk 
scarf and a fluffy ostrich feather. 
6747 
