655 
the red and the purple-seeded sorts of that 
name. Why they should be called by the 
same name Is a mystery. There are no two 
beans in the whole list more unlike in every 
particular, aside from both bftiug bush beans, 
and both very good shell beaus. The red anil 
purple sorts are very nearly alike. The former 
has sometimes green and sometimes yellow 
pods the green-podded being nearly if not 
quite identical with the Canadian Wonder. 
OTHER GOOD BEANS. 
Low’s Champion, a red, round-seeded dwarf 
beau of the ‘‘Cranberry” type, is one of the 
earliest, most vigorous, healthy and prolific 
beans I have ever grown, and is an invaluable 
variety for the market garden, both as a snap 
and shell variety. Fully its equal as a snap 
beau, a little earlier, and with a golden pod is 
the Golden Prize, an enormously prolific sport 
from the common yellow-eye bean. In every 
way. as an early market snap, it equals the fa¬ 
vorite Ferry’s Golden Wax, but,unlike it,is en¬ 
tirely free from spotting. Among pole snaps 
the Mont d’Or is the liest. being very early 
and prolific, excellent in quality, and quite free 
from disease. For a late snap the Long-podded 
Kentucky Wouder is most excellent. The 
Dwarf Mont D’Or spots so badly as to be 
worthless. As a succotash bean none is super¬ 
ior to the speckled Cranberry or “horticultur¬ 
al” pole bean. There are many varieties of this 
type. The one I have selected as best is very 
early, aud very pr ductive; the pods as hand¬ 
some as a flower with their rich carmine stripes. 
All the dwarf varieties of this bean spot badly 
with ine. 
SQUAW CORN. 
Connecticut’s model agricultural secretary. 
& 
size, taking 3x6 feet sashes, and of length to 
suit the number of sashes. Some are perma¬ 
nent fixtures, and made of 1}£ inch pine plank; 
others are temporary arrangements put up for 
winter work and removed iu Spring. 
The Situation in which they are placed is 
warm and sheltered, sloping to the south and 
southeast, and protected on the north and 
west sides by buildings and close wooden 
frames. But Novemoer is early enough to put 
up these fences. A warm and sheltered situ¬ 
ation is of very great importance, because 
frame crops should have a good deal of sun¬ 
shine and ventilation in Winter, otherwise 
thpy will spindle or ror. Besides, in warm, 
sheltered places frames do not need nearlv so 
much covering in'severe weather ns they do 
in open, exposed situations. 
Soil.—F or ordinary crops 1 fill up to with¬ 
in some six inches of the. top in front and eight 
or nine inches at back, using rich loamy soil 
with lots of finely-rotted manure iu it. 
Kind ok Crops.— Cabbage, parsley, spinach, 
lettuces, radishes. 
Cabbage. —I shall sow Early Jersey Wake¬ 
field out-of-doors about the 20th or 24th of this 
month; then when they are three or four 
weeks old. transplant them into the frames 
about two inches apart each way. During 
Winter I shal I put on the sashes hi the case of 
hard frosty weather, aud when the thermo¬ 
meter indicates 20 degrees or more of frost I 
shall add a little additional covering in the 
way of wooden shutters, straw mats, or some 
“thatch”; also cover up and tilt up the sashes 
at the same time in the case of wet or snow¬ 
storms. Don’t coddle up the plants, but al ways 
ventilate them freely in favorable weather. 
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M.V 
I j .» J 1 
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THE NEMAHA BLACKCAP. From Nature. Fig. 376. 
Drummond phloxes, zinnias, mignonette, 
candytuft, pinks, coreopsis, balsams, scarlet 
sage, larkspurs and petunias of June and July 
sowings. Poppies or esehscholtzia sown in 
September or October bloom in Spring earlier 
than those that are sown in Spring, still 
sowiug annuals in Fall for spring flowers is 
hardly worth bothering with. 
Tender Plants.— After the first nip of 
frost we may have a week or two of fine 
weather and dahlias and other flowers forget 
their wounds enough to bloom again quite 
cheerily. But the woeful look presented by 
half killed plants cannot be compensated for 
by the few flowers they may, for a little while 
longer, continue to bear. Cut them over, save 
their “roots” and tidy up the place. Cut back 
abutiIons, lemon-scented verbena, lantanas, 
fish and rose geraniums; shake away the 
earth from the roots, and put them into the 
smallest pots into which yon can conveniently 
crowd them. Have a young stork of coleuses 
altemautheras, iresinos, double petunias, 
geraniums and the like. Don’t save scarlet 
sage, centaurea, golden feverfew, vinca rosea 
or nierembergia as you can get up a better 
stock from seed next Spring thau you could 
from cuttiugs. 
The Lawn. —Now is the time to make re¬ 
pairs. Where bumps occur reduce them, 
Where there are hollows skin them and fill 
them up. You can lay sod anytime before the 
middle of October; later the sod may not get 
fastened enough to escape displacement by 
frost. You can also sow seed before Octo¬ 
ber; later the seedlings might hardly bestrong 
enough to escape being winter-killed. You 
can make the smoothest kind of lawn by pre¬ 
paring your grouud now—subsoiling, enrich¬ 
ing and leveling it. Then let it lie iu that 
condition over Winter; in Spring unfasten the 
top a little, then firm and level the surface 
equally, sow the seed, rake it iu lightly, and 
roll heavily but smoothly. 
Trees and Shrubs, —Remove suckers and 
stem sprouts and destroy all tents of cater¬ 
pillars. You can now see the dead wood, but 
you cannot very well see it in Winter, there¬ 
fore this is the time to cut it out. Cut the 
roots at three to six feet off from the stem of 
all the large trees you iutend transplanting 
next Spring, the trees will recover the loss con¬ 
siderably before transplanting time and can 
be moved with much greater certainty of suc¬ 
cess. Transplant evergreens. Deciduous trees 
aud shrubs may also lie transplanted as soon 
as they lose most of their leaves. Fall plant¬ 
ing is safe enough in well sheltered places, 
but in bleak and exposed places spring plant¬ 
ing is to be preferred. 
- 
THE CENTURY PLANT. 
There are very few plants more effective 
iu certain positions than the Century Plant 
or Agave, whether we employ the plain or 
variegated-leaved. Its stately beauty, massive 
growth and readiness to be satisfied with al¬ 
most any soil or situation, and the little care 
needed to Winter it, render this plant a gen. 
eral favorite for out-door cultivation. It will 
stand several degrees of frost without injury, 
and may be taken up in the Fall and placed 
in the cellar, where it will require no further 
attention if only its roots be covered. Though 
called “Century” riant, its period of bloom¬ 
ing depends entirely upon the culture given 
it. Iu greenhouses it will sometimes bloom 
when 10 or 12 years old, while if used as a 
garden plant in a climate where it needs Win¬ 
ter protection, wo doubt if it would ever 
bloom. In green house culture or iu its trop¬ 
ical home the flower stem sometimes grows 
from 20 to 40 feet high, bearing n great num¬ 
ber of yellowish flowers, then the plant, dies. 
But many little plants form about the base of 
the main plant, which arc easily propagated. 
The Agave is really au Amaryllis, and the 
name aloe bv which it is often called is con 
fusing. The true aloe is a lily, blooming 
yearly. It is from this that the well-known 
purge is obtained. But we desire chieiiy to 
call attention to the beauty of the American 
Agave os an ornamental plant, and to the po¬ 
sition iu which it is seen to the best advantage. 
Our picture, Fig. 371 (p. 661), which we have re 
engraved from our able contemporary the Lon- 
dou Garden, shows, lxttor than we could ex¬ 
plain, just such a fxwition. Low-growing, 
herbaceous plants are seen beside it, and in the 
back-ground a vine clad birch. On the left of 
the walk are palms intermingled with ever¬ 
green shrubs and low-growing trees. 
NOTES IN THE GARDEN. 
the flageolet beans. 
Last Spring a writer in the Rural spoke of 
the Flageolet Beau as being au excellent shell 
bean, but worthless for snaps. This is quite 
true of the Green-seeded Flageolet, but not of 
T. S. Gold, hearing that I was in search of the 
“ Indian Blue Corn,’’ most kindly sent me, iu 
iu the Spring of 1385, an ear of corn, about 
half of the kernels of which were a bright 
china blue and the other half milk-white. I 
planted each color separately, and noted dur¬ 
ing their growth that the foliage of the blue 
corn was of a much darker green thau that of 
the white. This encouraged me to think they 
might be distinct varieties, which could he 
easily separated, and although the mixture 
showed in both lots, there were in one several 
entirely blue and in the other uutuv entirely 
white ears. This year I have planted a patch 
of each, and feel assured thut in a few years 
each will come entirely true. Mr. Gold wrote 
me that he obtained this corn from the West, 
but it is u true flint corn, very early and very 
dwarf, but with largo ears, having much the 
appearance in the field ot the Marblehead 
Sweet Corn. I am hoping that the white va¬ 
riety will give us a good Northern hominy 
coi-n. Nothing could be whiter, nor anything 
bluer thau its mate. I have heeu kindly fa 
vored with “blue” ears from various localities, 
but nearly all of them were of a dusky “ blue- 
mixed ” shade. Mr. Gold's is "true blue,’'and 
would be a decided acquisition where corn 
ears are iu request for decorative use. 
Newport, \ t. x. h. h 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
COLD-FRAMES. 
I am now preparing the cold-frames for 
winter vegetables. They are of the common 
Cauliflowers may be treated iu the same 
way as cabbages, except much more tenderly 
in Winter, for they are not so hardy. But I 
have never hail very good luck with fall-sown 
cauliflowers; they mostly “button” iu Spring. 
But with those sown in hot-beds in early Spring 
I have had good success. 
Parsley. —I sowed parsley in frames, in 
rows nine inches apart, about the first of 
August. It is now up nicely, thinned a little 
and shall yield me my best crop iu Spring. 
It does not run to seed so soon as the older 
roots, which I transplant into the frames in 
September and October. I am transplanting 
these now. I lift part of the last spring sown 
crop, shorten the tops and roots and plant 
with a dibble, as I wouldcabbage. From this 
I cut from December till April. Our present 
out door crop will give us lots of parsley till 
December, in Older to lx? able to cut parsley 
everyday in Winter we have to completely 
exclude frost, but this is easily done by a 
thick covering of straw mats kept dry by 
light wooden shutters over them. For gen¬ 
eral family use a box filled with plants and 
kept in the cellar usually gives parsley 
enough. 
Spinach. —From the middle to the end of 
September I sow round aud prickly spinach 
iu warm places out-of-doors, in beds, each con¬ 
taining six rows a foot apart. In November 
over these I fix board frames. Even with no 
other protection than the sashes I get a vast 
deal more spinach from under these frames 
than from the same amount of unprotected 
plants. On account of field mice it is unsafe 
to mulch the plants with anything. 
Lettuces. —For winter work I prefer and 
use Tennis Ball—a small, pretty hardy, solid- 
hearting kind. About the middle aud again 
the end of September I sow broadcast out-of- 
doors, then when the seedlings are two or 
three weeks old transplant them two inches 
apart into cold-frames. These lots give me 
stock enough for my succession plantings in 
hot-beds in Winter and cold-frames in early 
Spring. Treat them just as you would cab¬ 
bage plants in frames. Earlier sowings, also 
those sown iu the middle of the month, give 
me hearting plants in cold-frames up till New 
Years, or later. These are set out nine inches 
apart each way. Hearting plants should be 
kept warmer than stock plants. 
Radishes.—S ow in cold-frames in Septem¬ 
ber and the first part of October, after that a 
slight hot-bed is needed to grow and root them 
quickly. w. falconer. 
Long Island, N. Y. 
THE NEMAHA BLACKCAP. 
In May of last year. Mr. C. A. Green of 
Clifton. N. Y., sent us several plants of the 
Nemaha blackcap. The best canes are now, 
one inch in diameter at the base and about 
nine feet long. It is as late as the Gregg, 
though commencing to ripen before. The ber¬ 
ries are firm, borne in close clusters and are of 
good flavor—far better than the fruit of Gregg. 
The seeds are rather large and the berries 
have some bloom. On J une 19 we picked some 
of the largest blackcaps from this variety,that 
we have ever seen. How much of the size 
was due to a favorable season can not be esti¬ 
mated, since this is the first year of fruiting. 
As to hardiness, w e can only say that it has not 
thus far been injured in the least. We deem 
it for the Rural Grounds superior to the Gregg 
in every way. Our illustration, Fig. 376, 
shows an average cluster of fruit. 
REMARKS OF MR. GREEN. 
The Nemaha originated with Hon. Robert 
Furnas of Brownsville, Neb. As I remember, 
he found it growing in some fence corner. His 
claim for it was remarkable hardiness. We 
have fruited it here four or five seasons. It has 
passed through some severe Winters, and our 
locution is about the worst in this State for 
winter-killing. It has proved much hardier 
than Gregg with us. One Winter the Tyler, 
growing by the side of Nemaha, was injured 
much more. We have all thought the quality 
of Nemaha superior to that of Gregg, but this 
season it was no better. Nemaha resembles 
the Gregg, and many of our friends write us 
that they can see no difference. If they get a 
haz'd Winter they will discover, by the dead 
canes of Gregg, the dividing line. 
Clifton, N. Y. 
MY GOLDEN QUEEN RASPBERRY 
Has shown itself to be of good quality—I 
think fully equal to Briuckie—and iu firmness 
is much more desirable than some of the red 
varieties; but it is not as firm as Cuthbert. It 
has grown remarkably strong canes, and if it 
proves to be hardy, will be a great acquisition. 
Brinckle’s Orange is by far too soft for market 
purposes. For my family use I keep a small 
patch of both it and Pride of the Hudson 
growing by the side of a wall. They need no 
other protection in this latitude. d. e. h. 
Hampshire Co., Mass. 
salt and pepper for the cabbage worm. 
The cabbage worms iu my garden were 
very destructive this Summer, but going over 
them twice, at an interval of a few days, with 
a mixture of salt aud pepper, put ou them 
pretty thick, killed the worms and did uot in¬ 
jure the cabbage. wm. g. 
Menominee, Mich. 
CORRESPONDENTS’ VIEWS. 
Such a list as the Rural has just publish¬ 
ed of the Congressmen who worked and voted 
against the Oleo Bill is useful for reference, 
and should appear in every agricultural paper 
in the country. If the farmer wants his in¬ 
terests looked after, he must elect men to Con¬ 
gress who are iu sympathy with him. If he 
allows other trades, crafts and professions to 
put a party ring in his nose and lead him 
whithersoever they will, he can rest assured 
that they will lead him out of his own good 
pasture and turn him into the briar path of 
ruination, to browse on the thistles of humilia¬ 
tion and chew the bitter cud of remorse. 
Morrisonville, Ill. F _ G 
Housewives have au intense disgust for 
all house insects like roaches aud ants. They 
cun see these creatures and witness their work. 
The little “mites" are equally injurious, yet 
they are so small as frequently to be invis¬ 
ible to the naked eje. Not long since a lady 
