1117 
J?UOM THE HELLESPONT TO RHODES. 
inhabitants anciently possessed a reputation for virtue, still 
maintained among them. According to Plutarch,* there was 
no instance of adultery in Chios during the space of seven bun* 
died years. 
Having cleared the chain, or Erythraean Straits, we sailed, 
along the Ionian coast, for the channel which separates the 
stupendous heights of Samos from the lower land of Icaria. 
This marine pass is at present generally known in these seas 
by the appellation of the Samian Boccaze. It presents a bold 
and fearful strait, in the mouth of which is the small island of 
Fourmi , or Isle of Ants. A very heavy sea rolls continually 
through this channel, so that, with contrary wind, even a 
frigate can scarcely effect the passage. Whether it were 
owing to my having travelled so long in the level plains of 
fiussia, or to the reality of the scene, I know not, but Samos 
appeared to me, on its northern side, the most tremendous and 
precipitous mountain i had ever beheld. Its summit was con¬ 
cealed by a thick covering of clouds, although ail the rest of 
the Archipelago appeared clear and serene. We were told 
that the heights of Samos are rarely unveiled; a circumstance 
which might give rise to those superstitious notions entertained 
in earlier ages, when its aerial solitudes were believed to be 
the abode of deities; whence the Father of gods and men, 
enveloped by mysterious darkness, hurled bis thunder on the 
passing mariner. The most enlightened seamen of the present 
day, among whom might be included the master of our vessel, 
maintain, with testimony which it is difficult to dispute, that 
in stormy weather they have observed a lambent flame playing 
upon the face of the precipice of Samos, about two thirds of its 
height from the surface of the water. Many, say they, are the 
vessels this natural phanar has rescued from destruction, by 
the guidance it affords during the thick fogs of the winter sea¬ 
son. They further allege, that the natives of Samos have fre¬ 
quently gone up the mountain, in dark tempestuous weather, 
to seek this fire, but have never been able to discover whence 
it issues. For my own part, I do not doubt the fact. It is 
probably one of those exhalations of ignited hydrogen gas, 
found in many parts of the world, and always most conspicu¬ 
ous in hazy and rainy weather ; as in the instance of the burn¬ 
ing vapour at Pietra Mala in Tuscany, and many other in 
iebrity; and represent, in front, a sphinx, with a bunch of grapes; for the reverse, ss 
amphora, with other symbols of the islaad’s fertility. 
# Pint D& V'erf Midierum > 
