21 2 : CLARICE'S TRAVELS. 
veral passages* untilwe came to the governors apartment, who 
having heard our names and business, desired us to be seated 
upon the divan opposite to him. As this man affected all that 
haughtiness with which Franks were formerly received, in 
times when the English name was not quite so much respected 
as it is now in Turkey, I shall particularly specify the cere¬ 
mony attending our visit. The custom shown in the recep- 
tion of strangers, is the same over all the Ottoman empire; 
and in ail countries the punctilios of hospitality are best ex¬ 
ercised by proud men. It is only our equals who lay aside 
ceremony.* 
The governor of Cyprus was no pacha, nor had he any 
other rank than what his wealth had procured in his tempo¬ 
rary station at Nieotia; an honour annually purchased of the 
Capudan Pacha, as before stated, by the highest bidder. 
One short year of dominion, wholly dedicated to the exercise 
of a vain ostentation, and to unbounded rapacity, was -there¬ 
fore all that awaited him, in return for the expenditure where¬ 
by the post had been obtained. It was truly amusing, there* 
fore, to see the manner of displaying his new soverignty. Our 
credentials were of a very superior nature; because, in addi¬ 
tion to our firman, we carried with us letters from the Capu¬ 
dan Pacha, and the commander in chief, both of the fleet and 
of the army. At sight of these, however, his new-made ex¬ 
cellency affected to turn up his nose, muttering between hit 
teeth the expressive word djowr] with considerable emphasis, 
and taking up the skirts of his pelisse, (as our venerable 
friend the Armenian kneeled before him, to act as our inter¬ 
preter,) that they might not be defiled by the touch of au in¬ 
fidel. This insolence was the more remarkable, as the Turks, 
except when in a state of open rebellion, generally salute the 
Grand Siguior’s firman: even the haughty pacha of Acre al¬ 
ways made sign of obeisance when it was produced. After 
thus endeavouring to make us feel our inferiority, he next 
strove to dazzle our senses with his splendour and greatness. 
* Persons of enlightened understanding, whatsoever be their rank, know very well 
that real greatness is best displayed by affability and condescension. I remember hear¬ 
ing an Italian physician at Naples, a man of the world, who had studied human na¬ 
ture -well, and travelled much, give this advice to a young practitioner, who was be¬ 
ginning his career: If thou be called,’’ said he, “ to attend a man of real high birth, 
with an accomplished mind, throw thyself into the best chair in his room, and make 
thy ^l; at home with him; but if the summons be to a new-made dignitary, to one of 
mewly acquired wealth, or to a tradesman who has retired from business, stand tUlhe 
Ibids thee sit, and then take the humblest seat that offers.” 
f A term used by the Turks to express either e cr an iafi&th 
