FROM ACRE TO NAZAEUTH. 
243 : 
fresh for every meal. Wine, as a forbidden beverage, was not 
offered to us. We supped upon the roof, as we sat; and were 
somewhat surprized in being told we were to sleep there also. 
This the agha said would be necessary, in order to avoid the 
fleas; but they swarmed in sufficient number to keep the whole 
party sleepless, and quite in torment, during the few hours we 
allotted to a vain expectation of repose. The lapse of a cen¬ 
tury has not effected the smallest change in the manners of the 
inhabitants of this country, as appears by the accounts earlier 
travellers have given of the accommodations they obtained. 
Bishop Fococke's description of his lodging at Tiberias exactly 
corresponds with that of our reception here.* A wicker shed, 
or hovel, upon one side of the roof, was found capable of con¬ 
taining six of us; the rest extended themselves, in the open air, 
upon the stuccoed roof, and perhaps, oh that account, were 
somewhat further removed from the centre of the swarm of ver¬ 
min ; our situation being, literally, a focus, or point of concourse. 
At three o’clock we roused all the party, and were on horse¬ 
back a little before four. We could discern the town of Acre, 
and the Romulus frigate at anchor, very distinctly from this 
place. In a cemetery hard by, we noticed a grave, so con¬ 
structed as to resemble an Egyptian mummy: it was plastered 
over, and afterward a face and feet had been painted upon the 
heap, like those pictured upon the cases wherein mummies are 
deposited. After leaving Shef hamer, the mountainous territory 
begins, and the road winds among valleys covered with beau¬ 
tiful trees. Passing these hills, we entered that part of Galilee 
which belonged to the tribe of Zabulon; whence, according to 
die triumphal song of Deborah and Barak, issued to the battle 
against Sisera, “they that hatyrlled the pen of the writer The 
scenery is, to the full, as delightful as in the rich vales upon the 
south of the Crimea; k remineded us of the finest parts of 
Kent and Surrey. The soil, although stony, is exceedingly 
rich, but now entirely neglected. That a man so avaricious 
as Djczzar could not discern the bad policy of his mode of go- 
vernment, was somewhat extraordinary. His territories were 
uncultivated, because he annihilated all the hopes of industry; 
but had it pleased him to encourage the labours of the 
husbandman, he might have been in possession of more wealth 
••ft “ We supped on the top of the house, for coolness, according to their custom, 
and lodged there likewise, in a sort of closet, about eight feet square , of' nicker work , 
plastered round toward the bottom, but without any doors ... ... The place abounds 
'•taith Ysrcain.” Pocockehs ,T/av. voh-ii. p. 69.. I;on»!.']745. 
