IIIOM BETHLEHEM TO JAFFA. 
383 
The ruins of goodly edifices indeed attest the religious vene¬ 
ration entertained, in later periods, for the hallowed spot; hut 
even these ^ire now become so insignificant, that they are 
scarcely discernible, and nothing can be said to interrupt the 
native dignity of this memorable scene. 
Seven other miles, not less laborious than the preceding, 
brought us to another valley, called that of Jeremiah, on ac¬ 
count of a church once dedicated to the prophet. In a mise¬ 
rable village of the same name, Mons. De Chateaubriand was 
gratified by the sight of a troop of young Arabs, imitating the 
French military exercise with palm sticks, and by hearing 
them exclaim,* io his own language, cn etvahl! mar die 
We intended to have passed the night in Jeremiah; but the 
drivers of our camels, perhaps by design, had taken them for¬ 
ward, with our baggage, to the village ofBethoor, where they 
were seized by the Arabs. All our journals were with the 
baggage; and as we travelled wish a recommendation from 
the governor of Jerusalem, and from Djezzar Pacha, we 
thought there would be little risk in venturing to claim our 
effects: after a short deliberation, we therefore resolved to 
proceed. Barren as are the hills in this district, the valleys 
seem remarkably fertile. We found the latter covered with 
plentiful crops of tobacco, wheat, barley, Indian millet, melons, 
vines, pumpkins, and cucumbers. The gourd or pumpkin 
seems lobe a very essential vegetable in the east, and many 
varieties of it are cultivated. The prospect among the hills 
resembles the worst parts of the Apennines. Mountains of na¬ 
ked limestone, however broken and varied their appearance, 
have nothing in their aspect either grand or picturesque.’ Their 
summits and defiles are tenanted by the wildest Arabs; f a par¬ 
ty of whom, attended by their prince, favoured us with their 
company, at a.well where we halted; but fortunately, Troni 
the paucity of their number, offered us no molestation. We 
were therefore permitted to admire, without apprehension, the 
very interesting group they exhibited ; their wild and swarthy 
looks; the beauty of their horses; and their savage dress. 
Some of them dismounted, and, having lighted their pipes, 
* Travels in Greece, Palaest. etc.vol.I, p, 383. Lond. 1811. 
•f ‘‘ I was told oi the tribe between Rama and Jerusalem. The European Monks, 
who are now the only pilgrim's that visit, the Holy Land, describe those Arabs as 
devils incarnate, and complain dolefully of their cruelty to the poor Christians. 
Those lamentations-, and the superstitious pity of.good souls in Europe, procure large 
alms to the Convent of F/a&czscaas at Jerusalem.” fiietiuhr's Trav. in Arabia , vol, 
' II. p. 183. £din. 1793 
