20 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
January 10 
EVERYBODY'S OARDEN. 
Limino Cabbage Ground.— We Intend to 
lime our cabbage ground before planting. 
Should the lime be applied before or after 
manuring, or after ground is fitted to 
plant? Which is the better practice? 
Should the lime be broadcast first, or 
slaked in piles before applying? Can 
plants be set out In a day or so after ap¬ 
plying the lime? What is the best prac¬ 
tice? Q- **• 
Johnstown, Pa. 
Evidently the object of the lime in 
this case is to prevent club-root. You 
do not state, however, whether the ma¬ 
nuring is a top-dressing or whether it 
is to be plowed under. Let me advise 
if lime and manure are both used, to 
plow the manure under and get it out 
of the way of the lime. Do not get them 
together as the effect of both will be in¬ 
jured by contact. The fresh lime will 
injure the manure, and again the ma¬ 
nure upon the surface will catch and 
hold much of the lime, and prevent it 
going upon the soil, where it is required. 
The question as asked implies the idea 
of plowing the lime under, which would 
be entirely wrong. We want the lime 
to act quickly and directly on the sur¬ 
face at first, but later to be carried 
down as it will be by tillage and the ac¬ 
tion of the rain. So plow down the ma¬ 
nure and apply the lime afterward. Do 
this right after plowing, or at latest im¬ 
mediately after the first harrowing. To 
be effectual the lime should be exposed 
to the air until it becomes dust, and 
when applied it should reach every 
square inch of the surface. It would 
hardly be possible to do this if the lime 
were broadcast or scattered over the 
ground before slaking. The better way 
is to slake the lime under cover, and as 
it slakes spread it sufficiently to allow 
the air to get to the center of the pile. 
It must be kept dry and spread out 
as stated above, else the inside of the 
pile will be full of lumps long after the 
outside of the heap has become fine 
dust. If the day is very still, it can be 
spread quite evenly with a shovel from 
the hind end of the wagon. By far the 
better way, however, is to apply it with 
a fertilizer drill. It is far better to give 
the lime time to act before the plants 
are set out. A week or two will be much 
safer. Plow the manure under. Apply 
the lime, preferably after first harrow¬ 
ing. Harrow again, and keep it up un¬ 
til the lime is well worked in and mixed 
through the entire surface. Slake the 
lime under cover, out of danger of rain 
until the entire mass is dust. If possible 
apply with fertilizer drill, and allow a 
week or better two between applying 
the lime and setting the plants. 
The Hotbeds. —Last week so many 
questions about the hotbed were at hand 
that I could only outline the work in 
the briefest manner. To a really suc¬ 
cessful kitchen or market garden the 
hotbed and cold frame are about what 
the mainspring is to the watch. They 
make it go. Properly filling and tem¬ 
pering the bed are two of the all-im¬ 
portant points of successful after-work. 
Fresh manure that has been stored from 
rain, and forked over to prevent fire- 
fang is the best. It should have about 
its own bulk of straw or what is equally 
as good, forest leaves, well shaken up 
and mixed through. A few days before 
filling into the beds, pile it up and 
tramp it well together to start the heat, 
which may be readily told by escaping 
steam. If the weather is very cold, cov¬ 
ering with straw or cornstalks will has¬ 
ten this. After the heat is well started 
fill in the beds and tramp thoroughly, 
and put on the sash. It is well to say 
just here that after being well tramped 
in the manure should be not less than 
eight to 10 inches in depth, and I prefer 
a foot or more. When the heat is well 
started pitch it over and tramp it again. 
Put on the sash and allow the heat to 
come up the second time (which ought 
to be in two or three days), then put on 
five or six inches of good garden soil. 
Of course the bed should be well bank¬ 
ed outside with manure clear to the top 
before the filling in is done. The soil 
and manure should be kept the same 
slant as the sash, and four or five 
inches will be sufficient space between 
glass and soil at first. As the manure 
settles down the space will increase to 
give room as the plants grow. After the 
soil is filled in keep the sash on for sev¬ 
eral days, only airing occasionally to let 
the rank heat pass off. Many weed 
seeds will germinate which may thus be 
destroyed before the bed is sown. Know¬ 
ing the height of bed, with the given 
depth of soil, manure and space between 
soil and glass, it is easy to see how 
much excavating is required. I am 
aware that many, even with the one-foot 
boxes, do not excavate or eievate the 
beds above ground, except to raise up 
on one side. But this gives too little 
depth of soil, and the plant roots strike 
down too quickly into the heat of the 
manure. There is also too little body 
of manure, and the heat is not lasting 
enough for long continued work. I like 
better to have conditions just right from 
the foundation up, so that the plants 
will have every possible chance in their 
favor. 
Catat.ocu'es. —They will soon be sent 
out now, and many of them con¬ 
tain much useful information. Unless 
one desires to purchase seeds 1 do not 
advise imposing upon the seedsmen by 
sending for them, for it costs much to 
get them out, and also much to send 
them through the mails. To intending 
purchasers, however, they are gladly 
sent, and a request by postal card will 
bring them. Many will find strong in¬ 
centives to earnest work in the garden 
through the liberal prizes which are of¬ 
fered by some of the seedsmen. They 
are yours if fairly earned, and failing 
in this the rewards of a better garden 
and larger supply of vegetables are 
usually ample for the more earnest ef¬ 
forts. J. E. MORSE. 
Michigan. 
Orchard and Nursery Questions. 
G. M., Johnstown, Pa.—l. Will you advise 
us on the care and planting of apple, pear, 
peach, plum, cherry and quince seeds? 2. 
Do Kieffer pear seedlings make good stocks 
to bud or graft on? 3. What are the best 
plum, quince, pear and apple to grow for 
stocks? 
Ans. —1. The seeds of fruit trees all 
need planting as soon as possible after 
they drop from the trees, or at least to 
be bedded in the earth in bulk, so they 
will never get very dry at any time be¬ 
fore planting for more than a few 
weeks. In the latter case they should 
be taken up and planted as soon as the 
ground can be stirred in the Spring. If 
they have been kept dry, for any rea¬ 
son, they should be soaked in cold water 
for a few' days before planting. 2. Seed¬ 
lings of the Kieffer pear have been 
rarely tested as stocks for working other 
varieties upon, but these tests have been 
rather favorable to them. The pear 
stocks mostly in use are imported from 
France, and are of the old seedling type 
that we see growing on the old farms 
that were settled when very little graft¬ 
ing was done. 3. The most common 
plum stock is the Myrobalan, which is 
from Europe. Marianna is an offshoot 
of this species, and is also used by many 
nurserymen. It is usually propagated 
from cuttings. Quince stocks are also 
grown from cuttings and the Angers is 
the variety mostly used for this pur¬ 
pose. _________ 
For the land’s sake, use Bowker’s Fer¬ 
tilizers. They enrich the earth.— Adv. 
The Maule Seed Boek 
for 1903 is free to all interested in gardening who mention 
this paper. If you want an up-to-date garden you ought 
to have it, the best seed catalogue I 
have ever published. The first edition 
alone costs over $37,000. Address 
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1711 Filbert Street, 
PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
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P 
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SMITH’S 
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two samples, 10c.) Manchester, N. H. 
_ I Early Jersey Wakefield and 
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Cabbage Plants and Virginia Second-crop Potato Seed. 
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Rawson*s 
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HENRY A. OREER, 
Cliestniit St., Plitladelphla, Pa. 
SAN JOSE SCALE. 
And other Insects can be Controlled by Using 
Good’s Caustic Potash Whale- 
Oil Soap No. 3. 
It also prevents Curl Leaf. Endorsed by Entomolo¬ 
gists. This Soap is a Fertilizer as well as Insecticide. 
60-lb. Kegs, $2.50; 100-lb. Kegs, $4.50; Half-Barrel, 
270 lbs., 3Iic. per lb.; Barrel, 425 lbs., 3^c. Large 
quantities, Special Rates. Send for Circulars. 
JAMBS GOOD, 939 N. Front St., Philadelphia, Pa 
Bumpa thi. 
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only kinds with automatic agitators and bruahea 
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F1EL1> FORCE PCMP CO., 
2 nth St., Klmirn, Y. 
Gregory 
Good seed 
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Always successfuL 
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Gregory A Son, 
B.rblehe.d,BI.H.. 
Gardens 
BARDEN, FIELD and FLOWER SEEDS. 
CLOVER and TIMOTHY. 
BEARDLESS SPRING BARLEY. 
We are recleaners of all kinds of Field Seeds and 
do not mix Medium with Mammoth Ked Clover. 
Write for Field Seed Price List; also 1903 Seed Cata¬ 
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The Henry Philipps Seed and Implement Co., 
115-117 St. Clair Street, Toledo, Ohio. 
ESTABLISHED 1824. 
HIGH-GRADE 
GARDEN SEEDS 
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