i 62 
March 7 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
ceptacle, much pains being taken to keep it slaking 
rapidly. When the slaking was well under way the 
sulphur, which had been mixed with water into a 
rather thin paste, was stirred in quickly. The potash 
or caustic soda was then added while the stirring was 
being continued. More water was added as needed, to 
keep the chemical action vigorous, and the whole was 
stirred rapidly. As soon as the caustic compounds 
were added the mixture changed to a reddish brown 
color caused by the sulphur solution. As soon as all 
bublding had ceased, enough cold water (hot water 
would probably be better), was added to make the 
right preparation, and the wash was sprayed upon 
the trees at once. The wash made after this method 
had the same general appearance as the boiled lime- 
sulphur-salt wash, and seemed to spray and adhere 
to the trees as well. v. ii. lowe. 
Geneva, N. Y., Exp. Station. 
HOW TO MANAOE THE SMALL STRAW¬ 
BERRY PATCH. 
I have found the best soil for the strawberry to be 
a rather light sandy loam with gravelly subsoil. Of 
course such a soil requires for best returns heavy and 
frequent fertilization, much being annually washed 
away on account of its porous nature. But properly 
enriched, with ample moisture, the crop will be satis¬ 
factory. In starting a new patch of strawberry plants 
in the Spring, measuring 25 feet each way, on land 
where for two or three years vegetables have been 
grown, I should give it a thorough spading and mark 
out eight rows; put into each row about 10 pounds of 
a good commercial fertilizer containing six to eight 
per cent of nitrogen and phosphoric acid and four to 
six per cent of potash—a good potato or corn fertilizer 
would be equally good for the strawberry—thoroughly 
worked into the soil. As soon as the ground can be 
worked in April set in two of the rows 50 strong 
plants, one foot apart, trimming the rows to three 
inches in length, spreading out the roots fan-shape 
in holes made with a hoe or trowel three inches deep 
and four or five inches in diameter, filling in the earth 
close to but not covering the crowns of the plants, and 
treading the eaith very firmly around each plant. Be¬ 
fore planting remove any dead or dying leaves that 
might interfere with the new growth. Wet the roots 
well before setting and water every two or three days 
afterward if the weather is dry. Leave the ground 
level around each plant and cultivate thoroughly, 
keeping out all weeds. When the runners start allow 
enough of the strongest to grow to form 10 or 12 new 
plants from each original plant; not more than two 
plants from each runner (one is better if runners are 
sufficiently numerous) and cut back the runner when 
it passes the second plant. Place small stones or a 
little eai’th upon tlie joints of the runners to facilitate 
rooting. Cut off all runners not needed for Jiew 
plants. These two rows we call the nursery—there¬ 
fore cut oft the blossoms as they appear, for they 
draw from the strength of the plant. Also in April 
plant Nott’s Excelsior or any early pea in the other 
six rows. After the peas are gathered, about the first 
of July, bury the vines about a foot below the surface 
in each row. Then smooth off the rows slightly con¬ 
cave, elevating tliem somewhat. (See Fig. 62.) The 
reasons for raising the rows are that in the Spring 
freshets are liable to wash the plants out of the 
ap’ound or cover them with mud, besides the berries 
are more easily picked than on a dead level. 
About the middle of July the new plants in the nur¬ 
sery row will begin to be sufficiently well rooted for 
ti’ansplanting into the other six rows. With a trowel 
take up the plants carefully with the earth adhering 
and set in the rows in two ranks about 10 inches 
apart, firming the earth around each plant as before. 
Transplanting may continue through the month of 
August according to the development of the new 
plants in the nursery rows. After the six rows are 
filled work over the nursery rows to correspond, 
making them all alike, and using the new plants in 
preference to the old ones. From time to time during 
the Fall months slightly ridge the earth toward the 
plants from between the rows. Keep off all runners 
STKAWBEUKY PLANTS ON UIDGES. FiG. 02. 
after transplanting. Dissolve one-half pound nitrate 
of soda in 25 gallons of water and with a large water¬ 
ing pot apply two or three gallons or more at a time 
twice a week to the nursery rows during the month 
of May. This will stimulate a vigorous growth. Dur¬ 
ing August and September apply the same proportion 
of nitrate and water to the whole plot in the same 
manner. Repeat the same programme the second and 
following years except that instead of peavines all 
the old strawberry plants, after fruiting is over, are to 
be turned under in the rows—a sufficient number of 
plants having been selected in April to start the new 
nursery rows. After turning under the old plants, 
and before transplanting, apply five to ten pounds of 
commercial fertilizer to each row. It is better to 
allow four feet to each row instead of three. More 
room to work the plot is afforded and picking is 
easier. Besides, there is more room for the Winter 
covering of cornstalks, etc., when raked off between 
the rows in the Spring, which sliould be done as soon 
as growth starts. 
The method above indicated may not be practicable 
for field culture, where only one crop in two years is 
secured, but for the home garden I know of none bet¬ 
ter. By it an annual crop for four or live years may 
be secured upon the same ground, after which it would 
probably be well to “rotate.” The August transplant¬ 
ing extirpates the weeds, and they do not start after¬ 
ward to any extent until the following year. Of about 
40 varieties which 1 have tested I find the Cumberiand 
for early and the Brandywine for mid-season and late 
to be the most satisfactory on soil like that above de¬ 
scribed. There may be other varieties equally good 
or even better on different soils. Some kinds produce 
few runners, therefore make the nursery rows larger 
so as to be sure of having enough new plants for 
transplanting. h. h. ho.vrd.man. 
Connecticut. 
HOW TO TELL FLOWER AND LEAF BUDS 
I wish to graft some apples. How can I tell the twigs 
that have bloom buds from those that have not, or how 
can 1 tell vviiich scions to use? a. w. w. 
Fairplay. Ark, 
The fruiting buds of the apple are borne on short 
FLOWER AND LEAF BUDS. FlG. 03. 
The branches on the right ol each group carry bloom buds. 
stubby branches or s])urs, well shown in Fig. 63. 
The branches on the right of each group in the cut 
have bloom buds, while those on the left carry only 
leaf buds, and are such as would be selected for graft¬ 
ed or budding. Apple bloom buds are large and thick 
in comparison with the leaf buds, and the spurs which 
carry them are seldom found on wood less than three 
years old. When cutting apple grafts we like to se¬ 
lect straight smooth twigs of one or two seasons’ 
growth, not much thicker than an ordinary lead pen¬ 
cil. Such growths are free from spurs or fruit buds, 
and make first-class scioirs Fig. 63 also shows 
branches of a Japan plum and of the peach, bearing 
leaf buds alone and leaf and blooifi buds respectively. 
The plum fruit buds are in clusters on short spurs, 
but in the peach they are borne singly or in pairs 
along.side leaf buds on wood of one season’s growth. 
HOW TO HANDLE RED RASPBERRIES. 
We planted, two years ago, upon a corner of an old 
Blue-grass pasture aw'ay up on a hilltop, where the 
sheep for several years had chosen to spend their 
nights. The soil was already very fertile, and the 
crop, la.st season, upon the one-year-old canes, was 
very fine indeed. Upon this hilltop, too, the Loudon 
seems to have escaped, so far, the fatal root-gall 
which, for a time, brought the growing of red rasp¬ 
berries practically to a standstill. The plants which 
we used in setting this patch w^ere propagated from 
25 Loudons which, in a small sand-bed, accumulated 
from the “washings” of the public roadway above, 
escaped out of a planting of nearly 500 plants from an 
eastern nursery. I have often wondered just what 
element in that little sand-bed cleared the systems 
of those Loudons of the fatal malady. Whether the 
disease will again develop remains to be known. 
'The soil for red raspberries should be deeply plowed 
UOW TO PRUNE BLACKCAPS. Fig. C4. 
and finely pulverized. Ample furrows are then drawn 
314 feet apart, and the plants carefully set in every 
other row—spacing them about 214 to three fee: 
apart. Potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans or some simi¬ 
lar hoed crop may be grown in the alternate rows the 
first season. We have had good success in using good 
strong “sucker” plants—the tops or canes being 
shortened back to from four to six inches. The only 
use for these “stubs” is to serve as a guide during the 
first few cultivations until the new shoots, which come 
from buds upon the root or “collar” of the plant, 
make their appearance. One of these “stubs” is show'u 
in Fig. 65, which also shows a sturdy young Doudon 
of the first season’s growth from the plant, which will 
produce fine fruit the following season and should be 
pruned back as shown in Fig. 65 at the right. The 
strong buds upon the cane, from tip to collar, will 
push out vigorous fruiting stems. Cultivation cannot 
be dispensed with in the red raspberry piantation. The 
soil must be kept mellow and free from filth, and the 
thousands of "suckers” treated as weeds. Only a 
narrow row of these new plants in line with the parent 
plants, should be permitted to grow for fruiting the 
next year. Upon a rich soil it is difficult to keep the 
plants from crowding. We have had good returns 
from plants standing six, eight or 10 inches apart in 
rows about 12 inches in breadth. An end of one of 
these fruiting rows for the coming season is shown in 
Fig. 66, a section of the plants being properly cut 
back for fruiting. 
It will be noticed that we do not practice “Summer 
pinching” to produce a branched top or “head.” In¬ 
deed, we have discontinued Summer pinching on all 
owr bush fruits except the first season’s growth of 
the blackcap raspberry, when the plants are about 12 
inches high. This is merely to keep the berries up 
out of the soil during the first crop. 
We followed and advocated Summer “heading back” 
for years, but experience has finally taught us that it 
is neither necessary nor auvisable here upon our soil. 
It gives too serious a check to the growth of the cane, 
and endangers its proper development in ca.se the 
usual Summer drought overtakes it. Besides, a very 
considerable amount of time and labor is saved in 
pruning by there being but one strong cane to clip 
where there would be from four to 12 or more upon a 
thickly branched head. The canes “stand up” just as 
sturdily, and the berries are larger in size and about 
equal in quantity as when grown upon a thickly 
branched row. Indeed, 1 find that I am increasing the 
profits and lessening the labor by outgrowing some 
of the strange notions of earlier experiences. 
Ohio. F. II. BALLOU. 
PRUNING RASPBERRIES.—Fig. 64 represents 
Kansas blackcap raspberries as they grow on the 
Rural Grounds with ordinary cultivation. The bush 
on the right is pruned for fruiting; that is, the old 
canes have been cut out, together with weak new 
growths, and the branches shortened back to mod¬ 
erate spurs, cutting to a plump bud. The unpruned 
bush shows how the tips anchor when growth is not 
hampered by Summer pinching. On account of fre¬ 
quent high winds during Summer and early Fall we 
find it inexpedient to cut out old canes when the 
fruit ripens or interfere with the natural develop¬ 
ment of the new growth until pruning time returns 
the following Spring. The plants, unless trained to 
wires or stakes, need all possible support against wind 
pressure, and we find they know well how to provide 
it. In less exposed places Summer pruning may be 
an advantage, but it is doubtful whether productive¬ 
ness is greatly increased by it. w. v. f. 
