1903 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
566 
EVERYBODY'S GARDEN. 
Onion Questions.— Can onion sets grown 
from seed this year be set out this Fall 
covered with straw and make a good crop 
next year? Will they produce as much 
and be as large and good as if set next 
Spring? How much earlier will they be 
by Fall setting? Give full directions, how 
and when to set, and all information need¬ 
ed. 1 live in latitude of Louisville, Ky. 
Oakland City, Ind. W. R. F. 
The sets grown from seed this year 
would produce onions next year all 
right whether planted this Fall or in 
the Spring. In your latitude they wiil 
not require very much covering—^just 
enough to hold them in check until the 
hardest freezing is over, then uncover 
them. If you are growing for an early 
Cl op of green or bunching onioiiis, set 
them out this Fall, as the earlier you 
get them the better price they will 
bring. 1 would not depend upon sets 
for a main crop, but shouid prefer to 
sell them and grow from the seed. The 
sets will produce seed next year, and ot 
course you cannot expect a full crop of 
both seed and bulbs. 1 know of no prac¬ 
tical tests having been made that would 
definitely settle their bearing qualities. 
On general principles, however, I should 
say that for a main crop Spring setting 
wouid be preferable. Here is opportu¬ 
nity for a practical demonstration and 
the results might prove of great value 
to you. The Fall setting would very 
likely mature the crop considerably 
sooner and give much better prices, it 
might pay well to plant part of them 
this Fall and part in the Spring. But 
my choice would be to plant most of 
them at the latter time. This, of course, 
is for main crop and not for bunching 
onions. The earliness depends entirely 
or nearly so, upon the time of Spring 
selling. Usually, the Spring setting is 
not done until the frost is out sufficient¬ 
ly to fit the soil. The Fall settings will 
begin growth before the frost is all out 
of the ground, and thus are likely to get 
considerable start over those set in 
Spring. It is a foregone conclusion thai 
the richer the soil the better, and ii 
should be thoroughly fitted. Plant in 
drills 12 to 14 inches apart. If for 
bunching onions, put them close to¬ 
gether, and if for main crop, two inches 
or more apart. They should be covered 
an inch or more in depth. In your local¬ 
ity the middle or last of October, l 
think, would be early enough, and the 
Spring setting should be as early as the 
ground will admit of working. Thorough 
and clean cultivation will be necessary, 
especially if grown for the crop of bulbs. 
Planting Peas, RxsPBBRjaiEs and 
Spinach.— Can peas be planted for early 
Spring market in the Autumn and attain 
any success? If so, what time should they 
be planted, and how cared for? What tlmo 
in the Fall should red raspberries be set? 
At what time should spinach for early 
Spring be sown? J. h. k. 
Phoenix, N. Y. 
I have never sown edible peas for 
Spring use, in the Fall. Othei*s do so, 
however, and if all is well I expect to 
sow a good many this Fall. I 
know that sweet peas are thus sown 
with the very best of results, and see no 
objection to sowing the edible peas in 
the same manner. As to sowing and 
care, I shall simply outline my plan and 
if others follow it shall be glad, as if it 
were a failure it would be only trifiing 
at most, and if successful will pay well. 
This is the plan I have in view, and am 
perfectly free to say that I have full 
faith in it Very late in the Pall—just 
before hard freezing, I shall fit the 
ground as for Spring sowing. The 
ground will be well manured and the 
peas will be sown in drills not to ex¬ 
ceed two feet apart, just wide enough 
to work with cultivator set narrow if 
so desired, and covered not more than 
two inches deep. I shall mulch them to 
prevent the ground heaving, and early 
in the Spring shall rake it off, and start 
the weeder or a fine-tooth harrow just 
as soon as the surface is sufficiently dry 
to do so. We shall use the earliest 
smooth sorts, as the wrinkled varieties 
are not hardy enough for this work. Wv 
shall sow plenty of seed to insure a 
good stand, and if they fail of course 
we lose that much, and shall try to 
stand it without grumbling. If they 
grow, of which I am quite certain, they 
are good in our markets for $1.50 to $2 
per bushel. So we expect to try it and 
win the horse or lose the saddle. Others 
have been successful, and I think we 
can do likewise. It has been the cus¬ 
tom here to set out red raspberries 
whenever the ground was in readiness 
and wet enough, from Spring up to lat¬ 
ter part of August. This of course 
means plants simply transferred upon 
our own grounds from one plot to an¬ 
other, and always, if possible, to take up 
the parent cane with the plant, and 
leave it standing until the following 
Spring. If the old cane dies down it 
can be removed at any time. For small 
plants, as they usually come from the 
nursery. T should hesitate to plant later 
than August 15. Generally speaking, I 
prefer Spring planting for all kinds of 
trees and shrubbery, and especially so 
for nursery-grown stock. In your local¬ 
ity, I think, there will be but little risk 
in planting from the first to the middle 
of August or even a little later. If you 
desire to cut spinach during the Winter 
it should be sown early in September. 
If no cuttings are made until Spring, 
it will be all right if not sown until the 
middle or last of the month. 
Michigan. j. e. morse. 
Bone Grinding at Home. 
J. R., Reading, Pa .—Where can I secure a 
bone-grinding machine to make fertilizer? 
I expect to use horse power. Is ground 
bone very good for a young orchard? It 
is on a hillside, and I cannot haul manure 
on the top, and would like to use bone as 
a substitute. How Is the bone prepared 
after grinding to keep it from molding? 
Ans.—E xamine our advertising col¬ 
umns for bone mills. Ground bone is ex¬ 
cellent for all kinds of fruit—best when 
you use some form of potash with it— 
either wood ashes or muriate of potash. 
Such a combination will take the place 
of manure on the hillside. After grinding, 
bone is dried thoroughly either by leav¬ 
ing it in thin layers in the sun or heat¬ 
ing it in a kiln. The best way to pre¬ 
pare it is to steam it under high pres¬ 
sure before grinding. 
Orchard Land Near Washington. 
M. T. K., Heisteraburg, Pa.—On a visit to 
Washington, D. C., I found some cheap 
land along the Potomac River, on the 
Maryland side, from 15 to 25 miles below 
the city. The land is somewhat sandy and 
mixed with little white gravel and pebbles. 
What fruit trees I saw looked very 
healthy, especially peach trees. Taking 
everything into consideration, including 
escape from Spring floods, would this be 
a good place to plant a commercial or¬ 
chard, and what kind of trees do you 
think would succeed best of both large 
and small fruit? 
An8 .—It will doubtless seem strange 
to many persons, as it did to M. T. K., 
that there should be very cheap land so 
near Washington City, but it is true, and 
there is no very serious objection to 
the land or the location, for fruit grow¬ 
ing or general farming, so far as I know. 
As I have visited that region, on both 
sides of the Potomac repeatedly, and 
the last time this Summer, and have ac¬ 
quaintances there, I know the conditions 
quite well. The soil is mostly a mixture 
of sand and clay loam with some gravel, 
easy to work, retentive of moisture and 
fertility, but generally worn down by 
poor farming. It has been the old “cut- 
and-skin game” that has reduced the 
land in productivity and price. The cli¬ 
mate is comparatively mild, and there 
is no more danger from Spring frosts 
there than in most other sectii'ns. In¬ 
deed peaches, cherries, plums, pears and 
apples all bear as well as anywhere that 
I know, and so do grapes and the ber¬ 
ries. Washington is a good market for 
good fruit and vegetables. Transporta¬ 
tion is by river boats, but there is a 
tiolley line down the Virginia side and 
one in contemplation on the Maryland 
side. Some farmers bring in their pro¬ 
duce by team, but the roads are general¬ 
ly bad in Winter and Spring. In my 
opinion, this region would be good for 
commercial fruit growing, especially for 
peaches, cherries of all kinds, pears, 
grapes and berries, and those already 
making proper efforts in this direction 
there are doing well. Cow peas should 
be grown on the land quite often, as 
they have a most remarkably good effect 
on the old fields which are thought by 
some to be worn out. They have a red 
clay subsoil containing a good share of 
potash, but need phosphoric acid and 
the nitrogen that is easily obtained 
through the legumes and a liberal 
amount of humus. ii. e. v. cd. 
Aphids on Apple Trees. 
II. j1. D., Valle Urucia, N. C .—I am In 
charg’e of a young orchard here consisting 
of 16,000 apple trees. Ants are sucking the 
tender leaves thereby killing the leaves 
and twigs. Will you give me a remedy to 
prevent them? 
Ans.—I t is not ants that are “sucking 
the tender leaves,” but aphids, or plant 
lice, and ants often accompany them to 
feed on an excretion that is quite abun-' 
dant. The wet weather has destroyed 
many of the natural enemies of the lice, 
and that is the principal reason why 
they are unusually abundant and caus¬ 
ing so much damage. As soon as dry 
hot weather comes on the lice will large¬ 
ly disappear. A spraying with tobacco 
water will kill many of them, but it is 
not likely that this will be necessary. 
The pest of plant lice is very prevalent 
in many parts of the country this Sum- 
E, V. D. 
Killing Oak and Chestnut Sprouts. 
Tell A. M., page 485, who wishes to 
know how to kill oak and chestnut 
sprouts, to throw away his bush scythe, 
take an old ax and sprout them off. Do 
this three times during the season— 
never mind whether the moon is old oi 
new. Do it the last time the latter pari 
of August. Pull up the locust sprouts. 
J. N. n. 
When possible to do so cut the trees 
in the months of June or July, and they 
will very seldom if ever sprout. The 
timber is also more durable if cut at that 
time, but the stumps decay quickly. 
When the trees are already cut and 
sprouted, if possible to do so, pasture 
about 15 sheep to an acre and they will 
soon take care of all that they can reach. 
If not possible to obtain the sheep the 
only way to kill them is to cut them off 
below the lowest leaf in the month of 
June or July. w. h. f. 
Knowlesville, N. Y. 
An eastern agricultural experiment 
station tried the perennial saltpeter and 
kerosene remedy on about 200 stumps, 
and found that it was perfectly useless. 
I myself am thankful I dug and cut them 
out, though hard labor, as the going 
down six feet and the overturning the 
ground got by the roots being drawn up 
roughly much bettered the soil. Here 
most of the woods rot in three years. 
Pearl River, N. Y. h. l. w. 
When you write adverti.sers mention The 
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