202 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
March 24 
results do not demonstrate this fact, and he does not 
believe that carbolic acid adds to the value of the 
wash. 
As stated, the time to apply washes or other pre¬ 
ventive measures is from June 15 to July 1 in New 
SCAKS OF BATTLE. Flo. 68. 
Work of a single borer in a peach tree, natural size; 
w b , burrow of borer: <j , gummy mass; p, pupa 
projecting from cocoon. 
York State, and they should be kept in perfect order 
on the trees until October 1. In Canada, July 15 is 
usually early enough to begin. In the South the ap¬ 
plication should be made in April, to last three or 
more months. The warfare against the borer is a 
perpetual one, and the Cornell experiments may be 
summarized as follows: The digging-out method is 
best of all. The next best, in the order of their ef¬ 
fectiveness, were tobacco stems, a tar-paper bandage, 
a mound of earth about the tree, and two applications 
of the wash recommended by J. H. Hale. The pictures, 
taken from the bulletin, tell their own story. 
THE TRUTH ABOUT COW PEAS. 
For the benefit of many farmers like myself, who have 
more acres than they can profitably cultivate, will you 
give your opinion and the arguments for and 
against the following plan as a means of improving both 
farm and crops by resting the land instead of buying too 
much commercial fertilizer? Each year prepare one 
field by plowing, rolling and cultivating in the best 
manner, until about June 1; then plant to cow peas, allow¬ 
ing them the whole season, and let them lie on the 
ground over Winter, to be plowed or cultivated in the 
next Spring, for any crop that seems best. Would you 
advise drilling in rows three feet apart, with a liberal 
amount of fertilizer and cultivation during growth, or 
broadcast, or drilling without cultivation? Land is the 
cheapest thing we farmers have, and if it can be made to 
improve itself and the crop by lying unproductive a year, 
we think it would be cheaper than buying fertilizers. 
Dutchess Co., N. Y. c. s. u. 
As far north as through the lower tier of counties in 
New York, we regard this plan as excellent. We are 
not yet prepared to say whether, farther north than 
this, the cow pea will prove more satisfactory than 
the Canada field pea, or the common field pea. We 
think, however, that the cow pea is superior for ma¬ 
mmal purposes. June 1 is early enough to sow. The 
cow pea is most useful on light or thin soils. On cold, 
heavy clays it will not do so well, and will some¬ 
times die out. We would not spend too mudh time in 
preparing the soil for the cow pea—better put the ex¬ 
tra work on the corn or other crops intended for feed 
or sale. We have always put the seed on broadcast. 
The southern growers prefer to sow in drills, or in 
hills, so that 'the crop can be cultivated, and we hope 
to try these methods this year. If the season is long 
enough, to mature seed, we would pick and save it. 
This must be done by hand. The vines may be left 
on the ground all Winter. 
If the peas are in drills, or hills, it is safe to try a 
seeding of Crimson clover at the last cultivation. 
This is not sure to grow, but it is worth risking. On 
average farm land we would not use any nitrogen for 
fertilizing iue cow peas, but would apply at least 100 
pounds of muriate of potash and 400 pounds of acid 
phosphate per acre. Our experience is that these 
minerals will give better results when put on the 
cow peas than when put directly on the corn or pota¬ 
toes that follow. This plan is not suited to the small 
farm, where every acre must produce some paying 
crop, but it is a wise one for large farms where there 
is a large proportion of idle 1-ana. By feeding potash 
and acid rock to the cow pea these fields can cer¬ 
tainly be brought into fair cultivation at moderate ex¬ 
pense. It is not always most economical to depend 
on cow peas alone, or even on cow peas and potash 
and rock. Tne cow pea does not create anything. It 
improves the mechanical condition of the soil, and 
provides a good supply of organic nitrogen. On our 
colder northern soils we shall still need soluble nitro¬ 
gen for our earlier crops. Potash, acid phosphate, 
cow peas ana a small amount of nitrate of soda will 
enable us to grow fair crops. The most that we can 
hope to save is the cost of the organic nitrogen, which 
means about 30 per cent in most fertilizers. A large 
proportion of our waste fields need lime. Cow peas 
make better use oi. this lime than almost any other 
crop. 
THE sap in maple trees. 
The following interesting facts are given in a note 
sent from the Vermont Experiment Station: “Maple 
sap consists principally of two elements, water and 
sugar. The sugar is all manufactured in the green 
leaves, and a part of it is stored in the twigs and 
trunk of the trees to be used in the early growth of 
the next season. The water is all absorbed from the 
soil. Examinations made in January show that the 
wood is then saturated with sap—about 40 per cent 
of its weight at that season being water. If the entire 
tree weighs 10,000 pounds, therefore, there is in it 
some 4,000 pounds of sap, and if this contains three 
per cent of sugar, there would be in the tree about 
120 pounds of sugar in solution in the sap. During the 
sugaring season there is probably little movement of 
this sap within the untapped tree, but this sap may 
be under great pressure. The pressure, on a good 
sap day, may rise 'in such a tree to the startling 
amount of over 20 pounds to the square inch, as reg¬ 
istered by steam pressure gauges used in the experi- 
QDMMY MASS AT BASE OF TREE. Fig. 69. 
ment station investigations. When this pressure is 
relieved by tapping at any point there is a tendency 
to drive the sap from all directions out through the 
tap-hole. Careful experiments indicate that the sap 
moves very easily and rapidly with the grain of the 
wood, but very slowly if at all across the grain and 
that, as a result, the sap flows into the tap hole from 
above and below, but not to any appreciable amounts 
from the sides. Two or more tap-holes on different 
sides of the tree will therefore drain more sap from 
the tree than will one hole. These experiments indi¬ 
cate also that the upward and downward flow of the 
sap into the tap-hole is about equally rapid.” 
Power Whitewashing.—A new way has been found for 
applying whitewash from a sprayer. Ordinary lime wash, 
reduced nearly to the consistency of water, is applied by 
means of a hose with a long bamboo nozzle, very much 
as a lawn or a flower bed is sprayed with water. A 
portable pneumatic pump supplies the power. Three men 
are employed in the operation, one preparing the wash, 
another attending the pump, and a third doing the white¬ 
washing. From all reports, the operation works satis¬ 
factorily, employing tewer men, aand all the same the 
work is done in less time. In regard to cost, the saving 
is very great. One dollar, with the pneumatic pump and 
the sprayer, will go as far as $5 under the old whitewash¬ 
ing method. This process, although comparatively new 
here, is said to be extensively used in the West. 
Starting Early Potatoes.—I wish to give you my 
plan for getting extremely early potatoes. About the first 
of March I bring the seed potatoes from the cellar, and 
place the potatoes close together seed ends up in a frame 
or shallow box, say four inches high. I put this in a 
window, to get good light and sunshine, if possible, in a 
warm room so not to chill or freeze them. Spray once 
a week with tepid water, moistening thoroughly. In a 
week or so strong green sprouts begin to start. Let 
them remain in the frame until you wish to plant. When 
all danger of frost is passed, prepare ground and make 
holes as usual, digging them rather deep. Cut the pota¬ 
to so as to leave two good strong sprouts to the hill. Be 
careful when covering so not to bruise the sprouts, and 
in a week the potatoes will be up sufficiently to hoe. We 
can raise potatoes large enough to eat by July 1. Farther 
south they ought to be ready by the middle of June. Of 
course, it is a little bother, but we like good new potatoes 
to eat about as soon as we can get them. w. s. g. 
Castorland, N. Y. 
The Farmers’ Club. 
Fig Culture in Maine. 
We purchased some fig trees last Fall, and they are 
now dormant in cool cellar. The varieties are Pregus- 
sata, Brown Turkey and Black Ischia. I would like to 
fruit some of them in boxes in the greenhouse. Will you 
say how they should be treated, and about what time the 
fruit should ripen? Our night temperature is 45 to 50 
degrees, but naturally will be higher as nights grow 
warmer. F c c 
Sandy Creek, Me. 
The figs would thrive as well in a sunny place in 
the open during Summer as under glass, provided they 
were regularly watered. If the earth in the boxes is 
suffered to dry out they will get a serious check. 
Use rich light soil in potting the trees, and see that 
it is well worked among the fibrous roots. If the trees 
are sufficiently strong and start off promptly, some 
fruits may form by midsummer, and ripen in early 
Winter if taken under glass. The temperature given 
is rather low, but will do to start the trees in leaf. 
A lookout should be kept for Red spider, which seri¬ 
ously affects the leaves. 
Planting Gladiolus Bulbs. 
l bought a lot of Gladiolus bulbs which I planted last 
Spring. I find many little bulbs on each one. If I plant 
these little ones, will they make blooming bulbs by Fall? 
if not, when? How should they be planted and tended? 
How deep and how close together? s. j. b. d. 
•Elkhorn, Wis. 
These little bulbils may be planted out in April or 
May in good garden soil. Sow very thickly in drills, 
18 'inches apart, and cover with three or four inches 
of mellow earth. They will come up more evenly if 
soaked overnight in water or if the hard shells are 
removed before planting. See that they lie not over 
an inch apart in the bottom of the drill, as they seem 
to thrive better if closely planted. Give good clean 
cultivation until the leaves begin to turn yellow in 
September, when they may be taken up, and stored 
with the parent bulbs during the Winter. They should 
produce.soft-skinned, true corms or bulbs, from the 
size of a large pea to that of a walnut. Plant again 
in the same manner next season, and they will grow 
to blooming-size bulbs. Some of the strongest may 
produce small spikes of flowers the second year, but 
most of them will need two years’ growth before they 
are large enough to plant with any certainty of bloom. 
Culture of Mushrooms. 
Several correspondents ask for information con¬ 
cerning the home cultivation of mushrooms, saying 
that the use and cultivation of this admirable food is 
unknown in their locality. Very useful pamphlets on 
mushroom culture can be had, free of cost, by address¬ 
ing the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., 
and several of our advertisers, who make a specialty 
of handling fresh mushroom spawn. The conditions 
of success are quite simple, but there is always much 
uncertainty in the outcome. Any cellar or outhouse 
where the temperature can be maintained at about 55 
degrees is suitable. The mushroom plant must have 
heat, moisture, and abundant nitrogen for its growth 
and development. Fermenting stable manure fur¬ 
nishes these conditions admirably. Fresh horse drop¬ 
pings, as free from litter as possible, should be pro¬ 
cured and stored in a dry place until sufficient have 
TARRED PAPER BANDAGE ON TREE. Fig. TO. 
accumulated to make a bed eight to 10 inches deep, 
four feet wide, ana as long us desired. Turn the drop¬ 
pings frequently to keep from overheating, and when 
I'eady form the bed, preferably on the ground, by 
mixing the fermenting manure with about one-eighih 
