1900 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER: 
465 
What Stocks for Japan Plums $ 
Where it is not possible to use Japan 
stocks for grafting Japan varieties of plums, 
do you prefer peach? Are peach stocks 
better than the Myrobolan? 
Wherever the climate is cold enough 
to injure peach roots, we would not ad¬ 
vocate budding Japan plums on them. 
Where the Winters are not so severe, 
and peach trees will stand all right, 
Japan varieties seem to unite and do 
rather better on peach roots than they 
do on Myrobolan, and many of the large 
orchard'ists are using them on peach 
roots in preference to plum. Of course, 
anyone that plants them on peach roots 
should understand that they are subject 
to attacks of borers, like peach trees. 
Budded on Myrobolan stocks they can 
be planted and grown successfully in a 
good many northern sections where 
peach trees will not stand. 
Ohio. THE STORES & HARRISON CO. 
From the early introduction of the 
Japan plum I have been growing both on 
peach and plum root. I have about 700 
trees on peach, and from my experience 
here I should say, for our soil and cli¬ 
mate, that the peach is much superior to 
Myrobolan or any other stock for grow¬ 
ing this variety. My reason for saying 
this is that with me they have produced 
better and more abundantly annually 
than anything on the plum root. 
New York. s. d. willard. 
Several years ago we sent some plum 
trees into Canada, part of which were 
on peach and part on plum, and we have 
received letters saying that those on 
Marianna did well, colored well, but 
those on peach were the most prolific. 
The trees were all planted below the 
bud both kinds of stock, and none has 
winterkilled or been hurt by the borers. 
The worst enemy to the peach stock is 
the borer, and in the extreme north the 
plum stock is hardier, and it is well to 
put the bud slightly below the ground. 
There is an orchard near here, 12 years 
old, on peach stock, and they have paid 
remarkably well. We have grown the 
Japan on Myrobolan, and find that it 
does well on that stock, and really we 
do not see why it should not be as well 
for the north as any other kind of stock, 
as it is hardy, while the peach is, of 
course, not quite so hardy. In Massa¬ 
chusetts, the peach and the Marianna, if 
planted just nelow the ground, would be 
entirely satisfactory. 
JOS. H. BLACK, SON & CO. 
New Jersey. 
Influence of Stock on Scion. 
F. W. V., Milton, N. Y— In regard to the 
changing of grafts by the tree they are 
grafted on I wish to state the following: 
I have a Flemish Beauty pear tree, with 
two grafts of Bartlett, that 1 put in myself, 
that produce pears exactly like the Lawson. 
In my opinion that is the way the Lawson 
originated. If you would like, 1 will send 
a sample. 
D. E., Edgar Co., III.— For the benefit of 
those interested, I wish to give one fact, 
certainly strongly indicating, if not demon¬ 
strating, that the stock does influence the 
scion. In 1896 I budded Red June plum on 
a supposed Chinese apricot of thrifty 
growth. In 1898 the one-year’s growth of 
the scion matured a plum, ripening about 
one week sooner than any on the original 
plum tree from which the bud was taken, 
and along with the apricots, which were 
themselves from six to eight inches in cir¬ 
cumference. And what was even more 
unusual, the plum was nearly double the 
size of any on the original plum tree, be¬ 
ing 6*4 inches in circumference. 
Ans. —While I am open to conviction 
in all respects, and wish to know about 
facts, especially those that are contrary 
to theories that I may hold as correct, I 
am aware of the exceeding liability to be 
mistaken in observations and conclu¬ 
sions. We cannot be too careful of the 
correctness of our premises. I well re¬ 
member having a good-natured conten¬ 
tion with a friend, who declared that a 
certain variety of apple was a poor 
bearer and worthless in character, while 
I could not agree with him, although he 
said he had grown it for years. When 
he sent me samples it proved that it 
ivas a very different variety from the 
one he declared it was. Now it may be 
possible that F. W. V. did not put in 
scions o<f Bartlett pear. I have grafted 
Bartlett on many kinds of stocks, and 
never saw a fruit from them that was 
not a true Bartlett in all respects. So 
far as the Lawson having originated by 
a Bartlett scion grafted upon a Flemish 
tree, I can never believe it for two rea¬ 
sons. In the first place, it is quite well 
known that it originated as a chance 
seedling in New York; and, that if such 
grafting could produce it once it would 
do it again and again. The Lawson is 
too poor in quality to be close kin to 
either of those good pears. There is 
some mistake about this matter, I am 
quite sure. Samples of fruit would be 
gladly received. 
The case of the Red June plum grafted 
on a Chinese apricot, as stated by D. E., 
proves this, as 1 see it; That there was 
a much better chance for development 
on the top-graft than on the older tree, 
u may have been that the one plum on 
the graft hau as much nutrition as sev¬ 
eral on the tree from which the graft 
was taken, an^ why should it not have 
grown larger and ripened earlier? I 
have seen similar things occur on trees 
of the same variety set in the same row. 
Now, I do not say that the stock has no 
influence whatever upon the scion, out 
1 do say mat it is very little in the way 
of changing the character of the fruit. 
If it was true that it did materially 
change in this way we would be in no 
wise certain what sort of fru.t we would 
have from grafted or budded trees. 
II. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Seedling Hickories; Grapevine Queries. 
Subscriber ( No Address).— 1. How shall I 
have hickorynuts if it is impossible to graft 
them? There is one of many hickory ti’ees 
on my father’s farm where I was born, 
which grew the best nuts I ever ate. If 
nuts do not grow true to seed, then how are 
they propagated? 2. A large grapevine has 
been allowed to grow all over the mosL 
valuable cherry tree I have and to the 
great detriment of both. How soon dare 
i cut it out? 3. There are about six very 
old apple trees, one near the well and 
shades it. Would you cut them down and 
try to grow young trees or grapevines 
where they now stand? 
Ans. —1. It is not certain that seed¬ 
lings from any Choice hickory tree will 
bear as good nuts as the parent tree; 
but it may be that some of them will be 
as good, or better, and quite certain that 
most of them will be poorer. Grafting 
and budding the hickory are both possi¬ 
ble but quite difficult. No one but 
an expert should attempt it. If scions 
are cut next Fall from the tree that 
bears such choice nuts, and put away in 
a damp and very cool place until the 
next Spring, they may be set in small 
stocks and young trees be secured of the 
tsame variety. It is also possible to cut 
off small roots of the original tree and 
raise the butt ends to the surface of the 
ground and drive stakes to mark the 
places; and at least a portion of them 
will send up sprouts. These may be 
transplanted and new trees thus secured. 
2. If there is no special desire to pre¬ 
serve the grapevine that, is growing on 
the cherry tree I would cut off that por¬ 
tion of it at once. The sooner it is re¬ 
moved the better. If it is the hope to 
preserve both, then the tendrils that 
hold the vine to the tree may be cut at 
once and the vine carefully taken off 
and fastened to a trellis provided for it. 
The leaves will soon turn their upper 
surfaces to the sun, and the vine grow 
on to the end of the season with little 
signs of having been checked; provided 
it is not much shaded. If the tree is not 
being seriously injured, then the vine 
should be let alone until next Fall and 
then removed to a trellis. 3. It would 
seem to me that if the old apple trees 
are healthy, and their shade much 
prized, that I would at least leave one 
or more near the well. Young trees 
might bear more valuable fruit, but 
sometimes shade is worth more than 
good fruit. h. E. v. d. 
Ailing Cnerry, Apple and Plum Trees. 
J. TV. H., Payne's Depot, Ky.—l. What ails 
my cherry and apple trees? I have some 
cherry trees set in 1898 that have gum ex¬ 
uding from the bark, and on examination 
I find the bark dead for three-fourths of 
the distance around the tree and six or 
eight inches long, in several places. No 
worms are present nor any trace of any 
having been the cause. 2. I have several 
nice young apple Wees just coming into 
bearing that seem to be thrifty, yet all ap¬ 
ples (large as hickorynuts) have fallen off, 
and tips of limbs here and there all over 
the trees are dying, after growing several 
inches. Maiden Blush trees seem to be 
more affected than others. 3. Some of the 
tips of my plum trees are covered with 
black lice, and some of the apple trees with 
green lice. What shall I do for them? 
Ans.—1 . Tne cherry trees are affected 
with what is called sunscald. It is a 
rather common trouble, especially with 
the Heart and Bigarreau types. The 
cause is supposed to be uncongeniality 
of climate and soil; for, in some sec¬ 
tions, as for instance, in the Blue Ridge 
district, the trees are very heaithy and 
live to attain very large size and great 
age. I know of no remedy and no other 
means of prevention than to give good 
cultivation, in order to keep the trees in 
as heaithy a condition as possible. Sud¬ 
den changes of temperature and extreme 
drought, I believe, have much to do with 
this complaint, and anything that Will 
fortify the constitution of the tree 
against their eiieets wiii be a benefit. 2. 
The trouble with the apple trees is twig 
blight, which is only one form of the lire 
biignt, as we call it on pear trees. It is 
very bad in midisummer, and is much 
worse on Maiden Blush, Fameuse, and 
some other varieties than on the ma¬ 
jority of kinds. There is no remedy oe- 
yond the cutting out and burning of the 
affected parts; and that is by no means 
an easy thing to do, for it is almost im¬ 
possible to know how far below the ap¬ 
parently diseased parts the trouble 
really extends. Moreover, every cut of a 
knife or saw may infect the place where 
the wound is made, unless the instru¬ 
ment is disinfected by wiping it with a 
rag saturated with carbolic acid. If the 
germs are on the tool, as they are likely 
to be, they may be introduced where 
they are not. 3. The lice on the plum 
and apple twigs may be killed by spray¬ 
ing with kerosene emulsion. 
II. e. v. D. 
Strawberries and Apples for Home Use. 
J. It., Desplaines, III.— L Would you give 
me a list of strawberries for home use to 
last throughout the season? How many 
should I set, as we want plenty? When 
is the best time to set tuem, Fall or Spring? 
The soil is a light loam, was in sod for 10 
years, but was plowed last Fall. 1 have 
early potatoes growing on it at present. 
2. Also, give me a list of apples to set in 
the orchard where the trees have died out, 
early and late, as those remaining are 
mostly Fall apples. The orchard is in sod 
at present, but I intend to manure it next 
Winter and plow next Spring. Would it be 
best to take a crop off the ground to 
sweeten it, before setting the young trees? 
When is best time to set? Do you know 
anything about an apple called Golden 
Sweet, which a friend wants me to get, as 
she says it is one of the best she ever ate? 
Ans. —1. Spring is usually the best 
time to set strawberry plants, but, if the 
season is moist, August is a very good 
time to set a small patch for home use. 
It is probable that the land mentioned 
has many white grubs in it, for it was in 
s'od for 10 years past, and may have 
been used as a pasture, which would be 
still more likely to have infested it with 
grub worms. In such a case the soil 
should be cultivated one year more be¬ 
fore setting to strawberries, for it takes 
two years of clean cultivation to rid the 
ground of that pest, which is very dam¬ 
aging to strawberry plants. A good list 
/or home use is Michel, Lady Thompson, 
Beder Wood, Glen Mary, Brunette, Car¬ 
rie, Warfield, Bubach, Parker Earle and 
Gandy. If 100 plants of each kind are 
planted there will be enough to supply 
the needs of almost any family. 2. Of 
early apples the Yellow Transparent, 
Summer Rose, Early Harvest, Williams, 
Fanny and Summer Pearmain are among 
the best. Golden Sweet is a very good 
sweet apple, ripening in midsummer. Of 
Winter kinds, the Grimes, Jonathan, 
Romanstem, York Imperial and Canada 
Red are very suitable for home use in 
northern Illinois. It would be better for 
the trees to plant nothing on the land 
unless it be potatoes, pumpkins or some 
other crop that will require constant 
cultivation and leave the soil in a loose 
condition. There is no need to be trou¬ 
bled about growing something on the 
land to “sweeten it,” unless it is in¬ 
clined to be mucky; in which case lime 
would be very beneficial. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
For the land’s sake, use Bowker’s Fer¬ 
tilizers. They enrich the earth.— Ado. 
IT SOWS JUST 
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izer surely all the time, even when it’s in 
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A POTATO BUG 
Is most useful when he is dead. Kill him 
with “BOXAL,” and prevent blight by 
the same operation. $1 buys 10 pounds. 
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Add water, and 
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Saves time, money and crops. Prevents blight, rot 
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TIDr TlfiUTtkirDI SETS TIRES FOR 5c. 
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6i 
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