1902 
281 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
A Trek to the South. 
Part IX. 
We reached Lynchburg at about seven 
o’clock. It is made up of two things— 
hills and electric cars. We lost our way 
in the city when leaving there and I 
tell you we went down those hills in 
style. We put the brake on hard as we 
could, but some of the hills were so 
steep that several times I thought we 
would land in a heap at the bottom. 
The next day we went through a wild 
country, for miles and miles we did not 
pass a single house. The forests were 
pine and oak. In the afternoon we came 
to the Staunton River. Fred was afraid 
the ferry would break down with us, but 
as they claimed that it carried loads of 
tobacco over we went. The opposite 
bank was washed away by recent rains 
and they had to fix it with a shovel be¬ 
fore we could land, and acres and acres 
of corn were ruined by the wet weather. 
For miles and miles we traveled through 
red earth and woods of pine and oak, 
with scattered places and corn and to¬ 
bacco fields. We passed homes that had 
been beautiful, but the War had finished 
them; they were burnt up. It made me 
feel sad, and I wondered how the peo¬ 
ple who lived in them were and what 
their lives had been. The land we reach¬ 
ed at last was low, and corn on each 
side of the road. Fred left me to go 
back to a house. I thought of those 
sudden storms and saw that where we 
were the water had been over the road; 
so when Fred returned we were glad to 
climb a high hill for our camp. Drown¬ 
ing had no attraction for me. We found 
a nice place under a large oak, and 
spent a quiet Sunday. In the morning 
the man who owned the place said to 
us: “You all better come to Associa¬ 
tion!” (The Baptist’s Summer meeting.) 
Fred laughed and told him he was 
afraid they would pay more attention to 
us than to the minister. Sundays here 
they shut up their houses and the entire 
families go to church for the day. Fred 
was talking to a man about the streams 
and said: 
“All through Virginia we have scarce¬ 
ly seen any bridges, except where the 
water is very deep. We go down the 
banks with a bump, enough to break 
everything, and then cross and up with 
a rush. In our country we have bridges 
over even the very shallow streams.” 
The man looked at him a while, then 
remarked with a drawl: 
“Well, it must be mighty onhandy to 
water the horses!” 
He would not sell us hay because it 
was Sunday, but would give it to us. So 
I told him to do so and we would give 
him the money Monday, and we did. 
There was a nice man near Lynchburg 
who said to us that the South would 
never amount to much till more north¬ 
erners moved in; that it needed shaking 
up. He was sitting on a piazza and 
Fred asked him about some hay for the 
horses. He gave us a quick look, then 
came down and spoke to us so nice, and 
we camped there and he brought us a 
pitcher of milk and offered to do any¬ 
thing he could for us; and in the even¬ 
ing ha invited us to the house. We sat 
on the porch and ate pears and had a 
lovely rest. He had a wife and little 
girl and his wife’s mother. She was 
very sweet, and in the morning kissed 
me and wished me good luck. 
The next night we came to a real Vir¬ 
ginia plantation on the Staunton River. 
The owner was a little stiff at first, but 
afterwards so nice; he sent us iced milk 
and we were put to sleep by their 
hymns. It did sound so sweet! There 
were two boys, 21 and 17, and they sang 
with their sisters. There were four 
negro cabins. In the morning we had 
a nice visit from the man and he sent 
that plantation. The bell got them all 
up at four o’clock. I told Fred that it 
was hard to see a little F. F. V. go off 
at that hour to attend to things on the 
farm. They have ice and kill and keep 
beef, lamb and pigs. They have ducks, 
geese, chickens and turkeys. He said 
that they raised everything right on the 
place. Poor man, he had lost his wife 
and had the place and six children to 
look after. I told Fred after we left that 
at every place where we stopped they 
had something to be sad over, and I 
think it helped to brace us both up. 
Their lives here are so different from 
what we have been used to that Fred 
says it is like living in another world. 
For instance, at that place where we 
were stormbound, they were poor, but 
very happy. Tuesday it rained so hard 
I had to use their stove for cooking. 
(They had lived all Sunday and Mon¬ 
day on fried apples, pork and coffee.) 
The woman was frying apples. She said: 
“I did think I would have some vege¬ 
tables for dinner, but I had to give it 
up, for it is a long way to the garden. ’ 
Well, Wednesday morning, when I went 
in to cook our breakfast, there was the 
pork and apples! Just imagine our 
Chazy poor living that way! 
When we reached Danville the best 
place for the horses was in the ware¬ 
house. They were taking the tobacco 
to the auction, and we followed in the 
trail. They use the real old-fashioned 
schooners to carry it and one might 
think they were going across the plains. 
They have lovely places for the horses 
and a nice dry place for the wagons. 
Everyone was so kind to us. It is the 
same the world over; the selfish and the 
kind live in the same place and I thank 
God that I have seen so many beautiful 
lives, and people living right. No one 
need run down the colored people in my 
hearing. They are cleaner than some of 
the whites of the same class, and have 
been kind to us. It was a very interest¬ 
ing sight—the auctioneering and han¬ 
dling of the tobacco, and I shall always 
think with much pleasure of our stay in 
Danville. This seems to be a favorite 
name, for there is a Danville in 23 dif¬ 
ferent States. The road through our 
Danville was one of the finest in any 
of the cities we have passed, and the 
homes were just lovely; real homes; 
and beautiful flowers and trees. After 
driving a few miles I asked a man we 
met if we were near North Carolina, and 
he said that we would be there in a lit¬ 
tle while; so we went on a way and sud¬ 
denly Fred laughed and exclaimed: 
“Here we are!” I looked, and there was 
a big black pig with a cow chain on 
him, and remembered that they told us 
we would know when we reached North 
Carolina, for everything would be 
chained. 
The roads to Yanceyville were godd, 
but after we left there they were ter¬ 
rible; almost as bad as that one to the 
Peaks of Otter; and going up a steep hill 
we broke the whiffletree Fred made 
near Lynchburg. While he was fixing 
it I had to watch on the hilltop for 
teams and I wondered why we had such 
hard times; but later on I found out. 
A man met us and stopped and advised 
Fred to go another way, for if we kept 
on we would have to cross a deep stream 
and we could never do it with our heavy 
carriage. In his light buggy he got be¬ 
yond his depth, and .it was all he could 
do to get out. So that broken whiffle¬ 
tree most likely saved our lives. Just 
before reaching Danville we were caught 
in a hard rain; some of our things got 
wet, so about noon on Saturday we 
stopped in lovely woods, and built a 
good camp-fire and did some cooking 
and hung our damp things on trees and 
shrubs to dry. A man passed, and when 
he saw us he smiled and asked: 
“Are you going to Association to¬ 
morrow?” 
After he left I said to Fred: “My, but 
it seems good to be taken for Christians 
once more!” 
Now I want to tell you a strange 
TRY GRAIN-0! TRY GRAIN-0! 
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GRAIN-O, the new food drink that takes the place 
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me a lovely basket of grapes by his lit- STEM-WIND WATCH,CHA1N AND CHARM 
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thing. Our next camp was in the yard 
of a man whose daughter had typhoid 
fever. The horses would not touch the 
water. We did not think so much about 
it that night, for they had a drink just 
before reaching there, but the next 
morning they would not touch it, either. 
Yet at the first stream we came to they 
drank and drank and drank, as if they 
could never get enough. Fred said that 
they had more sense than some people. 
While we were at this place a man said 
to Fred: 
“Do you know that you have been 
over the worst roads in North Carolina 
—those past Yanceyville?” Then I heard 
Fred’s laugh! 
“Well, we have seen the worst roads 
in New York, in Pennsylvania and in 
Virginia, so I would have felt disap¬ 
pointed not to have struck those in 
North Carolina.” 
Then he got in the carriage and we 
drove off and left that Carolinian in the 
road meditating on the strange people 
and things in life. 
Our next stop was at Hillsboro. It is 
one of the oldest towns in the State, and 
they have a clock that King George gave 
them. When the British came through 
in the Revolutionary days the people 
put the clock in the river. It was there 
a week, then it came out all right. I 
saw the house where Cornwallis staid, 
and the Fool’s Errand was written here, 
and the author, Tourgee, lived in his 
own home there, a long time. A lady 
who lived at Durnam told Fred about 
it and added, that we must visit Dur¬ 
ham, saying that it paid a heavier rev¬ 
enue than any city in North Carolina. 
“Yes,” Fred replied, “I know that its 
tobacco tax was large!” She just looked 
at him and then began to talk of some¬ 
thing else, for she could not be proud 
of that. 
Well, for the last three days we saw 
cotton, peanuts and sweet potatoes for 
the first time. I must tell you the differ¬ 
ent ways we have seen to tell people 
not to come on to their grounds. In 
New York it is—“No trespassing al¬ 
lowed.” In Pennsylvania “Trespassers 
will be prosecuted to the fullest extent 
of the law.” In Virginia, “Private 
grounds. Keep off.” In North Caro¬ 
lina, “Posted!” f. e. w. 
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