1002 
289 
EVERYBODY'S GARDEN. 
Beans. —The wax and stringless green 
pod varieties, for best results, should 
be drilled or dropped four to six inches 
in the row; they are very tender, and 
should not be planted until all reason¬ 
able danger from frost is passed; but 
after that they may be planted at inter¬ 
vals of two weeks or a little more for 
succession. As soon as the plants are 
well out of the ground apply the nitrate 
of soda, same as for early cabbages. It 
should be applied every few days, espe¬ 
cially if there are any traces of rust. 
The same treatment as to nitrate of 
soda (or saltpeter if more convenient) 
should be followed with the Lima beans. 
These, both bush and pole varieties es¬ 
pecially in the North, should be started 
in pans or boxes of soil, either in the 
hotbed or sunny windows. They may be 
started two to three weeks earlier than 
they could, with safety, be planted in 
the open ground. Plant one inch deep, 
making sure that the eye is down, one 
in a place, and far enough apart that 
they may readily be taken up without 
disturbing the roots. In taking up, be 
sure that the soil is sufficiently moist 
to adhere well to them. It is best to 
take plenty of soil with the plants and 
set in holes previously dug. With care 
in handling, the plants may be reset 
with entire safety, and the season of 
maturity very much hastened. The 
bush Limas should be set two feet apart 
in the rows, as with good soil and cul¬ 
ture they will spread a good deal. If 
the pole varieties are to be trained to 
a single pole, they should be set pre¬ 
vious to transplanting the beans. Set 
three or four plants around each pole 
on a slightly raised mound of earth. 
Poles seven feet above the ground are 
sufficiently high, and when the vines 
reach the top they should be tied there 
and pinched back. The trellis is very 
desirable, but I have very little faith in 
corn or sunflowers planted in to take the 
place of poles or trellis. When poles 
are used, the vines must be trained and 
tied occasionally to the poles, and the 
most convenient way is to wind the 
string or cord used for tying around 
the left wrist. This allows free use of 
both hands for the work, and saves 
much trouble by avoiding tangling the 
cord. Carefully avoid working among 
the vines in any way while wet. The 
pole varieties should be set at least 
three feet between rows, but two feet in 
the rows will answer for the garden. 
Vine Crops. —The hills for all the 
vine crops should be bountifully sup¬ 
plied with well rotted manure thorough¬ 
ly worked into the soil. Allowing about 
105 to 130 days for the late squashes to 
mature, it is well to delay the planting 
as late as possible, as there will be less 
danger from the ravages of the bugs. 
When sufficient fruits have set, it is well 
to clip back the vines and keep them 
so pruned to considerable extent. The 
seeds of the small early pie pumpkins 
may be put in the hills of early corn 
after that is well started. They will not 
interfere to any extent with cultivation, 
and will make rapid growth after the 
corn is out of the way. Clipping back 
the vises will also give a fetter crop of 
pumpkins. Select long-keeping varie¬ 
ties, as many of them will, if properly 
stored, keep perfectly until February or 
March. For late cucumbers, a safe rule is 
to plant when blackberries are in bloom 
and a liberal supply of seed is at least 
a safeguard against the bugs. It helps 
to satisfy their appetites, and the sur¬ 
plus vines can be pulled out when de¬ 
sired. The remedies previously men¬ 
tioned, however, will be the main de¬ 
pendence. 
Parsnips and Salsify will require 
the same culture except that parsnip 
seed should be covered quite shallow 
and salsify deeply. Sow during the 
month of May and thin to three inches. 
Both are entirely hardy, and may re¬ 
main in the ground during the Winter. 
The Winter supply may be dug in the 
Fall and packed in sand in the cellar, 
or stored in pits. Chicory requires the 
same culture as parsnips, but is used 
only for forcing in Winter for the tops. 
Beets and carrots for the Winter supply 
should be sown according to locality 
from June 10 to July 1, and in some lo¬ 
calities even a little later, and the cul¬ 
ture is essentially the same as for pars¬ 
nips, etc. With all the above root crop3 
avoid the use of green or fresh manure, 
as it almost invariably causes ill-shaped 
roots. The half-long carrots and turnip¬ 
shaped varieties of beets will be most 
desirable for table use. 
Swrss Chard is very similar to the 
beet except that the tops alone are the 
edible portion. The cultivation is the 
same, but the seed should be sown early 
in May. The large ribs forming the 
leafstalk are cooked and served the 
same as asparagus, and the leaves are 
used for greens and considered superior 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
by many to all others. They should be 
thinned to 12 or 15 inches in the row, 
and the tops after attaining suitable 
size are broken out at any time. Late 
in Fall the roots may be taken up for 
forcing same as rhubarb. The seed bed 
indicated in diagram will be available 
for all varieties of plants up to the time 
for transplanting the late cabbage and 
cauliflower. 
The Children’s Garden. —We talk 
much of everybody’s garden, and that 
means the girls and boys as well as the 
older ones. This week a few sugges¬ 
tions will be given so that everything 
may be in readiness for the actual work. 
For your garden work this year choose 
the vegetables or flowers that you like 
best beside what you wish to raise and 
get seeds ready and your garden ground 
(not too large) selected. Make the work 
a regular business transaction, and 
charge up labor and cost of seeds and 
credit what is sold. Select vegetables 
or flowers that can be used in the family 
or sold, for we want you to make some 
money out of your labor. The parents 
will in most cases, we believe, give the 
use of the ground, but if rent has to be 
paid, pay what is right and no more. 
The plowing or spading, if not done by 
yourself, of course must be hired; but 
in any case should be charged to ex¬ 
pense. Find out what your own labor, 
or that which must be hired is worth by 
the hour, and the labor as well as other 
expense may be entered in a book, but 
all the vegetables or flowers sold must 
be credited. The weeds will grow pretty 
fast, and the sun will be very hot some¬ 
times, and it will be hard work, but 
these things come just to see what 
kind of stuff you are made of, and you 
can beat them all in the home run and 
that will be worth more than all the 
effort. A list of easy vegetables and 
flowers, both to grow and sell, will be 
given, and also how to care for them. I 
shall give all the help possible and want 
you to write what you are doing and 
how you do it, and most of all we shall 
want to hear in the Fall what you have 
accomplished. 
Transplanting. —The all-seasons gar¬ 
den is planned and detailed with the 
distinct thought or fact in view that 
crops well planted are more than half 
grown. Well planted not only means 
that the ground should undergo the 
most thorough preparation, but that the 
seed should have every possible advan¬ 
tage in its favor; planted not too deep¬ 
ly, neither too shallow, not too early 
and by all means not too late. In the 
main, it has been designated what seeds 
should be planted early and what late; 
what should be planted deeply and what 
shallow, so that by careful study of the 
directions many otherwise serious mis¬ 
takes may be avoided. Usually there is 
no part of the work more recklessly 
done than the transplanting. In the mat¬ 
ter of cabbage and cauliflower, it is no 
uncommon sight to see the transplanted 
plants sweltering under a hot July sun 
with all their load of broad leaves trail¬ 
ing in the dust, only to tax the already 
overburdened plant for a few days of 
grace, and Anally wither up and fall off. 
Why not avoid all this useless waste of 
vitality by clipping back the large leaves 
at the time of transplanting? The same 
is also true of tomato plants. Cut back 
and give the roots at least a fair show 
for their life; the shock is severe enough 
with every possible condition in their 
favor. They may be planted very deep¬ 
ly, and, in fact, should be, especially if 
tall and inclined to grow spindling. It 
is my practice to clip back all lateral 
shoots, and set nearly or quite down to 
the lower branches. Pepper and egg 
plants, as also vines of running habit, 
will not, of course, stand this treatment, 
but disturbing the roots of such plants 
must be avoided, and I do not like the 
plan of pulling up any kind of plants. 
Take them up with knife, trowel or 
spade, and the vine plants that are to 
be transplanted should be started in 
plant or berry boxes, that may be plant¬ 
ed right into the soil without disturbing 
the roots in any manner whatever. 
Culture. —The wheel hoe with at¬ 
tachments and the weeder previously de¬ 
scribed will fully solve the problem of 
garden culture. It is well to start the 
weeder on all the crops grown from seed 
very soon after sowing or planting. Do 
not wait until the plants are up, else the 
weeds will be there ahead of you. It is 
entirely safe to run it over nearly every¬ 
thing right from the start, only it must 
not run too deeply over seeds covered 
shallow. Start early and keep at it, and 
very much hand weeding will be avoid¬ 
ed. As soon as the potatoes begin to 
break through the ground, take the 
wheel hoe with the plows set apart, and 
mold boards turning in, and run it 
astride the row, entirely covering the 
plants. They will soon break through 
the soil again but the weeds will be 
buried. The corn is handled in the same 
way, only do not cover it, but throw 
the soil right into the hill. After going 
astride the rows as above, take off the 
plows and set the hoes closely together, 
and work between the rows, which will 
keep the surface entirely level, except 
directly in the hills, and weeds cannot 
live where the hoes are properly used. 
With all other vegetables, set the hoes 
apart sufficiently just to allow the plants 
to pass between them without cutting, 
go astride the row, and afterwards, if 
rows are so far apart that all the sur¬ 
face between has not been worked, set 
the hoes closely together and work be¬ 
tween the rows. This is why I previous¬ 
ly advised never bothering with the 
single wheel hoe; you can only work be¬ 
tween the rows and never astride them 
with the single wheel. With this method 
of culture very little hand weeding is 
necessary; but of course the thinning 
must be done by pulling out or cutting 
out with a narrow sharp hoe. 
Michigan. j. e. morse. 
For the land’s sake, use Bowker’s Fer¬ 
tilizers. They enrich the earth.— Adv. 
COLD MEDAL GLADIOLI 
Groff’s Hybrid Gladioli received the Gold Medal and 
Thirteen First Awards at the Pan- 
American Exposition. 
I have the Latest and only Complete Collection of 
GROFF’S HYBRIDS 
in the United States, and Control over Seventy-five 
per cent, of aH Stook Grown and Introduced by Mr. 
Groff. Write for Catalogue. 
ARTHUR COW HE, Gladiolus Specialist, 
Meadowvalo Farm. Berlin, N. Y. 
C lirn l 11Q Finely-rooted California Privet, 
OUipiUO OlUUl ir, to 18 Inches and 18 to 24 inches; 
Victoria and Cherry Currants, 2 and 3-year; Loudon 
and Miller Raspberry. Prices right. 
WM. H. MORGAN, Westmont. N. J. 
CRIMSON WINTER 
RHUBARB 
Not six days, but Six Months Earlier than any 
other variety. Absolutely perpetual if kept from 
severe freezing. The best new vegetable offered 
during the past 20 years. Also the Grand New Shasta 
Daisy. Send for price-list. 
L.UTHER BURBANK, 
Burbank’s Experimental Farms. Santa Kona, Cal. 
Business Plants for 
Business Farmers 
Write for Catalog of transplanted Cabbage, 
Tomato, Celery, Pepper and Egg Plants, etc. 
We raise first-class plants for the convenience of 
the man who plants for profit. Express .charges 
prepaid. 
J. E. HUTTON & SON, Conyngham, Pa. 
etables, result from want of 
Potash. 
Vegetables are especially 
fond of Potash. Write for 
our free pamphlets. 
GERMAN KALI WORKS, 
93 Nassau St., New York. 
RQDUft HPITQ PAftTQ —Palmetto, two years old 
flOfiUlAuUO AUUJO heavy roots.$3.50per 1,(100. 
JOS. HARRIS CO., Coldwater, N. Y. 
A bundance, Burbank and other Japan Plums. 4 to 
7c. each. R. S. Johnston, Box 4, Stockley, Del. 
Tree Bargains 
at Woodview Nurseries 
15,000 Apple, good assortmentPlum, Cherry, Peach. 
Send list of wants. These are jnst about the best 
trees on earth. Dormant until May 10. 
Box 100, Uriah, Pa. 
Plum and Pear Trees 
I have a surplus on Apple, Kieffer and 
Plum Trees. Until sold, I will give very 
low rates. Send list. 
C. A. BENNETT, 
Robbinsville, N. J. 
sum 
TREESSucceed where 
UrgMl Snruerj. OTHERS FAIL. 
Fruit Book Free. Result of 7 7 years’ experience. 
Surplus of Fruit Trees. 
All In dormant condition, andean ship until May 10. 
My catalogue will Interest you. It Is free. Write 
to-day. MARTIN WAHL, Rochester, N. Y. 
ESTABLISHED 1824. 
H I G H - G R A DE 
Carden Seeds 
Al j. a, A Tm. j. j. of all kinds. Try the 
rlcMtS ana 11668 LadyGarrlsonStraw- 
berry. 18,000 quarts to the acre. Cumberland Rasp¬ 
berry Plants at $2 per 100; Kansas Blackcap, $6 per 
1,000; Strawberry Plants as low as $1.25 per 1,000 and 
up. My stook Is fine. Catalogue free. 
D. W. MOSLEY, Dover, Del. 
BRIDGEMAN'S SEED WAREHOUSE 
37 East Nineteenth Street, New York 
Descriptive Illustrated Catalogue mulled free 
to all applicants. 
J] ODf ET FROM BEARING TREES. 
I I M—jEEj Rome Beauty, Sutton Beauty, On¬ 
tario. Malden Blush,Hubbardston. 
J. S. Woodward, Lockport, N. Y. 
Glenwood Nurseries 
Most complete assortment of choice 
Ornamental Trees, Shrubs and Vines. 
Bend for Descriptive Illustrated Catalogue. 
THE WM. H. MOON CO., MORRI8VTLLE, PA. 
80 miles from New York; 30 miles from Philadelphia. 
Don’t Be Late 
October Purple Plum and Green Moun¬ 
tain Grapevines are going. Send in your 
order early before stock is exhausted. 
FINE NURSERY STOeK^SsSJS 
Fruit Land. Free from disease, true to name. We 
have a oholce lot of different varieties of Peach 
Trees, Two-Year-Old Kleffer Pear Trees, and As¬ 
paragus Roots. Write for prices. Dover Nurseries. 
H. H. ATKINSON, Dover, Del. 
Strawberry Plants.—$1.75 per thou¬ 
sand. Circulars free. PINE HILL FRUIT FARM, 
Center Brook. Conn. 
nnu Dllll —New strawberry, the flower of 
UUIn ■ AUL the world; 6 berries filled a quart 
box last June. Mat free. T. C. Kevltt, Athenla, N. J. 
QtrQUihorrioe~ Foi> earlle8t and best plant Lady 
Oil dnUcI I ICO Norwood. For best plant Success. 
I also grow for sale Nick Ohmer, Gandy, Sample and 
Excelsior. All plants from 1901 beds. 
B. W. JKNKIN8, Dover, DeL. 
STRAWBERRIES. 
The Marie is a record breaker, good size 
dark crimson, finest quality, very 
most attractive in appearance. Au 
fine selling berry on the mark- 
a large stock ofextra fine plants 
and GO other choice varieties. Catalog of plants, 
troesand everything for orchard and garden free. 
Harrison’s Nurseries, Box 29, Berlin, Md, 
We also have a full assortment of other 
Nursery Stock, Fruit, Forest and Orna¬ 
mental Trees, Shrubs, Small Fruits, 
Roses, Asparagus, etc. Send for our free 
catalogue. Address 
STEPHEN HOYT’S SONS, 
New Canaan, Conn. 
For 2 Weeks Only! 
or until April 20, we will sell McKINLEY 
and JESSE Strawberry Plants at $1 
for 25. Get them for the boy. 
ANDERSON A CO., 
Dept. B. Rochester, N. Y. 
TREES 
$8 PER 100 
dale prices. Don’t 
for special price. 
APPLE, PEAR, PLUM and PEACH, healthy, true to name 
■ and Fumigated. All kinds of trees and plants at low whole- 
buy until you get our catalogue, which is free, or send list of wants 
Address, RELIANCE NURSERY, Box 1, Geneva, New York. 
Rogers Trees are Safe Trees. 
THE TREE BREEDERS. DANSVILLE, N. Y. 
Two Hundred Acres devoted to the propagating of Fruit 
and Ornamental Trees and Plants. Landscape Gardening 
and the Beautifying of the Home Grounds our leading 
Specialty. Write now for our 72-page Descriptive and Illu¬ 
strated Catalogue. We send it postpaid free on application. 
Ask for any information you are in need of on horticulture. 
T. J . DWYER A SON , 
Orange County Nurseries, Box 1, Cornwall, N.Y. 
Dwyer’s 
Nurseries 
ESTABLISHED 1884. 
