1902 
THE RURAL NBW-YO'KKER. 
433 
EVERYBODY'S GARDEN. 
Lnsect Pests. —If the labor of the gar¬ 
den only ended with what usually has 
been considered the legitimate work, as 
fitting the ground, sowing seed and 
tending the crop, it would leave much 
for which to be grateful. But with so 
many pestiferous insects constant watch¬ 
fulness and study are the only means to 
a successful end. On page 387 the Hope 
Farm man suggests a thought which 
ought to be emphasized in every issue 
of the paper. The “chestnuts” or trite 
things to the few are a sealed book, an 
unexplored mystery, to the vast ma¬ 
jority. As instance of this, the greater 
number of farmers and gardeners with 
whom 1 come in contact know very little 
of insect pests or fungus diseases, or 
their treatment. True, very few outside 
of the scientists know very much about 
it, but to the masses the Potato beetle 
and Paris-green are the whole stock in 
trade. A very serious feature of the 
matter is that this widespread apathy 
gives such unlimited opportunities for 
the increase of these troubles, whereas 
if unceasing warfare were waged it 
would in all probability minimize the 
depredations. 
Club-Root. —One man asked whether 
the treatment would cure it “Yes,” I 
replied, “it will cure it, but the diffi¬ 
culty will be to keep it cured.” Your 
neighbors will not try the remedy, but 
will go on in the same old way. The 
diseased cabbage will be left to rot on 
the ground, instead of being destroyed— 
the tools used in working in the infested 
ground will be used in other fields, and 
thus the disease will be spread. These 
conditions are hard to control; they 
might, however, be very much bettered 
by intelligent and united effort. 
Potato Beetles and Pauis-Green.— 
Personally my experience with Paris- 
green has nearly always been unsatis¬ 
factory, especially in solution either in 
water or Bordeaux Mixture. Used with 
road dust, flour or air-slaked lime 1 
have had better success. But 1 do not 
like it in any form, and have had far 
better success with the arsenic and sal 
soda. If the arsenate of lead justifies 
all the claims made for it, there ought 
never to be any use for an ounce of 
Paris-green as an insecticide. The 
claims are that it is very easily dissolv¬ 
ed, and holds well in suspension; that 
it can be used without fear of injury to 
the most delicate plants, and that it has 
the property of adhesiveness to that ex¬ 
tent that if properly dried after apply¬ 
ing, rains will not affect it. This alone 
would place it beyond all conparison 
with Paris-green. It may be used either 
with water or Bordeaux Mixture, and 
under all circumstances where the 
Paris-green could be used as a spray 
mixture. It is also claimed that it is 
much safer to handle, as there is no 
danger of burning foliage, and it may be 
used in the proportion of two pounds 
to 45 or 50 gallons of water or Bordeaux 
Mixture for tender foliage, up to five 
pounds for the Potato beetles. The 
Texas Experiment Station is authority 
for the above, and it is therefore entit¬ 
led to much weight. 
Squash Bugs. —The Black squash-bug 
has for years caused no end of trouble, 
and is unquestionably a hard enemy to 
light. As the bugs suck the sap and do 
not eat the foliage the arsenites will, of 
course, have no effect, and the contact 
spray mixtures will be useless unless it 
might be in the first stages of develop¬ 
ment. It follows then that trapping or 
hunting are about the only means avail¬ 
able for their destruction. Trap hills 
or rows of the Summer squashes are 
useful as they seem to prefer the Sum¬ 
mer varieties to the Hubbard or other 
late sorts. The crookneck or scalloped 
varieties will do for the trap hills and 
should be planted in succession so as to 
furnish a supply of young plants as late 
in the season as there is danger from the 
bugs. Spray the vines with the Bor¬ 
deaux (not the trap hills), as that will 
tend to drive them off the vines to the 
other plants. Shingles or pieces of 
boards placed around the trap hills to 
furnish a hiding place for the bugs will 
also be very useful, as they will gather 
under the boards for shelter and may 
be easily caught and destroyed. The 
trap hills and spraying the regular vines 
will also check the striped beetles, and 
a liberal supply of tobacco dust, wood 
ashes and road dust, or Cayenne pepper 
will also keep them in check. 
Poison Baits. —The depredations of 
cutworms, crickets and grasshoppers 
can be held in check to quite an extent 
with the poison baits, and they are 
easily handled. Dissolve two pounds of 
the arsenate of lead in one gallon of 
water and add one-half gallon of mo¬ 
lasses. Lawn mowings, or other young 
grass, wheat or oats, dipped in the solu¬ 
tion and placed around the plants or 
along the rows in the evening will de¬ 
stroy many cutworms. The bait should 
be covered with boards or shingles, and 
renewed every evening. 1 have had con¬ 
siderable trouble with the crickets, es¬ 
pecially among the ripening tomatoes. 
The bait is effectual, but the loose 
boards placed around the hills so that 
they can be caught and destroyed will, 
1 think, be more beneficial. Stak¬ 
ing or trellising to keep the fruits up 
clear from the ground is also very ef¬ 
fective. The bran mash is quite help¬ 
ful among the grasshoppers. Use the 
solution same as above, only stir in 
sufficient bran to make a stiff but quite 
will depend up on the lay of the land. 
When the water has been drained out 
the weeds and grass may be burned off 
and the soil plowed or worked with a 
disk, leaving the surface rough, so that, 
the ground will be well aired. Fre¬ 
quently a crop like oats seeded with 
Timothy grass is the best to start such 
a piece of land with. If available we 
should use at least 1,500 pounds of lime 
per acre with the grass and grain. 
When to Cut Rye Hay. 
G. B., Franklinton, N. I 7 .—When and at 
what stage is Winter rye best cut green 
far Winter feeding? 
Ans. —Rye hay is never very satisfac¬ 
tory compared with that from other 
grains. We cut it just before the head 
is fully formed. If you wait until 
blooming the hay will be very hard and 
tough. Stock will eat it if forced to do 
so, but it is poor stuff compared with 
oats, barley or wheat cut green and 
cured. Do not wait until the head forms! 
Cow Peas After Rye. 
TV. T. G., Cranbury. Conn .—Can cow peas 
be successfully sown after rye is harvest¬ 
ed, and how much seed is reuuired per 
acre? 
Ans. —You cannot expect to grow seed 
of cow peas in Connecticut after rye is 
harvested. You can get a fair growth of 
vine, which will make good fertilizer. 
In the South, where the seasons are long 
and grain is harvested early, cow peas 
can be grown between crops of grain so 
as to keep up the fertility of the land 
for years. For this late sowing we 
would sow the cow peas in drills about 
three feet apart, and give them good 
cultivation; also use some fertilizer if 
moist mash. Scatter this along the rows 
or the places where they work. My own 
experience with this is that in damp possible, as this will make a larger 
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Lumber 
AT 
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We purchased the Pan-Ameri¬ 
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IF YOU ARE ABOUT TO BUILD 
Send UsYour Lumber Bill 
weather it is helpful, but in hot dry 
weather it amounts to but little, as the 
sun and earth soon absorb the moisture, 
and it will become hard and dry, and 
the insects will not touch it. Kerosene 
emulsion helps or the oil full strength 
where you can spray it upon grass or 
anything that you do not care to save, 
will destroy many. The arsenate of 
lead is highly spoken of for cabbage un¬ 
til they begin to head. After that I 
would discard all of the arsenites and 
depend upon wood ashes and salt, three 
parts of the former to one of the lat¬ 
ter, or boiling water. Either is good 
and will do the work effectively. 
Michigan. __ J. E. morse. 
Some Cow-Pea Questions. 
P. J. S., Meclianicsville, N. Y .—I have a field 
that gave a light crop of rye last year- 
nothing on it now. Is it too late to plant 
it to cow peas to plow under and sow to 
rye or wheat next Fall? I would use 75 
pounds of muriate of potash and 300 pounds 
acid phosphate per acre. What variety of 
peas do you recommend planting on this 
light sandy soil, how many to the acre, 
how plant, by drill or broadcast? 
Ans. —Yes, you ought to get a good 
crop of cow-pea vines for turning un¬ 
der. You can plant any time before 
July 1. We would use Black or Whip¬ 
poorwill and sow in drills 2 1 / & feet apart. 
Use about three pecks of seed per acre, 
and sow about as you would beans. 
Broadcast the fertilizer and harrow it 
in before planting the peas. Keep them 
well cultivated and you will get a bet¬ 
ter yield than if they were sown broad¬ 
cast. You will find it hard to buy good 
seed so late in the season. 
How to Conquer a Bog. 
A. P., New York .—Will you advise me as 
to the best method for subduing bogs? 
Ans.— By "bog” we suppose you mean 
a low, wet place where nothing but 
coarse grass and weeds will grow. Cul¬ 
tivated grasses will not grow there be¬ 
cause the soil is too wet and sour. Use¬ 
ful farm crops do not like wet feet. To 
“subdue” the bog you must take the sur¬ 
plus water out, let air and sun into the 
soil and, perhaps, use lime to “sweeten” 
it. The bog should be drained. This 
can sometimes be done by open ditches, 
covered drains of tile or stone or a well 
sunk down through the subsoil to 
gravel. The best system of drainage 
growth. 
Manure from Rotten Cornstalks. 
T., Rosli/n, N. f.-We have a large amount 
(stack) of fodder corn which is decayed 
and unfit to use. What is the best man¬ 
ner of converting it into manure? Would 
it do to spread a foot or so thick in layers 
with city manure between to hasten de¬ 
composition, or is some other material for 
the purpose better, if so, what? Could it 
be used as it is as a mulch between black¬ 
berries and raspberries with profit? 
Ans. —Long stalks in manure are 
never satisfactory. You can rot them 
in the manner proposed, but a much 
better plan would be to cut or shred 
them first. If you have a cutter chop 
the stalks up into small pieces. If not 
too wet and rotten they can be used for 
bedding and absorbents, or they may be 
mixed in the manure. Long stalks make 
a fair mulch for strawberries, as they 
do not blow away, but for all other pur¬ 
poses we would cut them. 
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PARACRENE 
is better, cheaper and bulkier than PARIS GREEN. 
“Have used Paragreue on my farm for potato 
bugs. It was perfectly satisfactory L. H BAILEY, 
Prof, of Horticulture, Cornell University Write for 
sample. Jb’KED. L. LAVANISURG, New York. 
“Boxal” does it. 
Kills Bugs and Blight. 
It Increases the Crop 20 to 30 per cent 
in both amount and quality because it 
Prolongs the Growing Season 3 or 4 
weeks. 
“Boxal” is ati insecticide and fungicide in one, prepared after 
scientific Government formulas by a thoroughly responsible 
concern. It is all ready to use by adding water. Ex-Secretary 
Sessions, Mass. Board Agriculture writes “Boxal killed the 
bugs: I had aline crop: no blight or rot although both prevail¬ 
ed in the vicinity.” Enough to spray an acre $i-Five times 
as much $ 4.25 Illustrated Circular free. 
Bowker Insecticide Co- 43 cl Hosto!! S Mass! 
