624 
September 13 
Farmers’ Club. 
[Every query must be accompanied by 
the name and address of the writer to in¬ 
sure attention. Before asking a question, 
please see whether it is not answered in 
our advertising columns. Ask only a few 
questions at one time. Put questions on a 
separate piece of paper.] 
App/e Rust and Cedar Trees. 
E. E. J., Philadelphia, Pa .—I should be 
very glad to know your opinion about the 
advisability of planting quince trees in the 
neighborhood of Red cedars. It is said 
that a fungus develops on the cedars 
which spreads to quince trees and destroys 
them. How far off is the nearest point 
they can be planted to cedars, 01 is there 
nothing in this idea? Should quince be 
set Spring or Fall? 
Ans. —The rust that preys on the 
apple and quince has its home during 
the Winter in the “cedar apples” that we 
see so abundant on some Red cedar 
trees. When the Spring comes these 
balls or warts exude a sort of jelly or 
soft orange-colored, thread-like matter 
that is very conspicuous during wet 
weather, and dries up when weather be¬ 
comes dry. These are covered with 
masses of spores that find their way to 
the apple trees, and to some extent to 
the quince trees, also, where they ger¬ 
minate on the leaves and fruit. Rusty 
spots form on the leaves, which often be¬ 
come so numerous and large as to cause 
them to die, and trees have sometimes 
been almost defoliated by this disease 
before August 1. On the fruit the spores 
develop and make warty spots. The dis¬ 
ease can Winter over in the soft tissues 
of the young branches of the apple and 
quince trees, but its most suitable Win¬ 
ter home is the cedar, where it causes 
new warts, the old ones having died af¬ 
ter ripening the Spring generation of 
spores. The distance at which apple or 
quince trees may be safe is indefinite. 
Birds can carry the spores on their feet 
for a long way, and the spores may 
travel in the air, but how far I do not 
know. I would, surely, not want any 
Red cedar trees on my farm if I hoped 
to have my apple and quince trees free 
from this rust. As to remedies, or rath¬ 
er preventives, the first thing is to cut 
down the cedars. Bordeaux Mixture 
will also prevent the germination of 
spores that may come in contact with 
it on the trees, and spraying with it in 
Spring is very good. 
H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Failure of Cherry Buds. 
S. D. G., Kansas City, Kail .—I had a 
nurseryman bud 400 Mahaleb cherry stock 
for me August 13; the sap was well up, 
weather rather hot for two or three days 
after budding, but some rain within one 
week after. The buds are now all dead 
and dropping out. They were tied in with 
twine, and string cut eight or 10 days after. 
The stock was well cultivated and made 
a rank growth—about five feet. Is it too 
late to bud them again this year? Why 
did they not take? Should I cut them off 
next Spring and bud the new growth, or 
let them go and bud the old stock? 
Ans.—T he first week of August is 
usually early enough to bud Mahaleb 
cherry stocks, but I have budded them 
the middle of July in Kansas, with good 
success. It is possible that the stocks 
were not in proper condition when the 
budding was done, but if the bark peeled 
readily it would seem to me that this 
was not the trouble. The hot weather 
probably had something to do with the 
failure. Hot and dry times are especial¬ 
ly bad for budding. Tying with common 
cotton strings is sometimes done, but 
raffia or some wide tie is better. I have 
used the tender inside shucks of corn to 
good advantage, although they are a lit¬ 
tle tedious to prepare. These wide bands 
protect the wound from the drying in¬ 
fluences of the air more than a string 
can do. If these stocks are rebudded 
by the middle of September, provided 
they peel easily, they may yet succeed 
this year. The work would not cost 
much, and one year will be gained. If 
they do not succeed the only proper 
thing to do is to cut the stocks off near 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
the ground next Spring and train one 
sprout, which should be budded about 
the middle of July, if the stocks are in a 
thrifty condition and the bark peels 
readily. If it does not then wait until 
there has been rain, when it will. Well- 
matured buds are quite necessary. 
II. E. V. D. 
Flax Straw for Strawberry Mulch. 
J. F., Waterloo, Iowa .—Would you inform 
me whether flax straw is a suitable cover¬ 
ing for strawberry plants during Winter? 
1 have never heard or read of its being 
used for that purpose, and I do not know 
but there may be something in the straw 
which might be injurious to the plants. 
I raise a few acres of strawberries every 
year, and sometimes have difficulty in 
getting covering material in the Fall; there 
is no wheat raised here and the farmers 
generally feed all their oat straw. Corn 
is the great staple, and dairying and stock 
raising the chief industry. 
Ans. —We have never used flax straw 
for covering strawberries, and cannot 
therefore give any facts. I should sup¬ 
pose, however, that it would make an 
excellent covering and cannot think of 
any reason why injury would result from 
its use. Wisconsin growers use clean 
marsh hay when obtainable, and spread 
over the whole field deep enough to hide 
the plants wholly from view. This is 
usually done after the ground is frozen 
so that a team may be driven over the 
field without injury to the plants. Some 
rake this in the spaces between the rows 
and leave it for mulch; others remove it 
entirely from the field and cultivate un¬ 
til fruiting time. There is an idea 
prevalent, in this vicinity at least that 
the covering for strawberry plants must 
be very light to avoid “smothering” the 
plants. It cannot be well founded, for 
one grower makes a regular practice of 
covering several acres with fine horse 
manure spread four to five inches in 
thickness. Another grower in the saw¬ 
mill region uses sawdust successfully. I 
have often wondered whether anyone 
has learned by experiment the best time 
to cover strawberry plants for Winter 
protection. Is it well to wait until after 
hard frosts, when many buds may have 
been destroyed, or is it better to cover 
earlier? Frederic cranefield. 
Madison, Wis. 
Mr. Hitchings Describes his Orchard. 
L. C. S., Albion, N. Y.— Several of your 
readers in this vicinity are greatly inter¬ 
ested in the orchard management of Grant 
Hitchings, and would like a little more 
definite information from him; hence I 
send the following questions: What kind 
of grass does he raise in the orchard? 
How many times does he mow during the 
season? Does he pasture at all, and with 
what kind of stock? Does he use com¬ 
mercial or stable fertilizer, and how much 
of either per ti-ee? Did he spray last 
Spring, and what is his prospect for fruit 
now? What are his leading and most 
profitable varieties? Does he trim exten¬ 
sively, and at what time of year? State 
age of trees and how many years they 
have been in bearing. 
Ans. —The lesson learned from this 
year’s experience of sod treatment of an 
orchard emphasizes the importance of a 
thick aftermath of fine grass covering 
the entire surface of the ground during 
the Fall. The shade furnished by this 
aftermath prevents rapid evaporation of 
moisture, and also favors bacterial ac¬ 
tion in the soil. This action should be 
encouraged, for I believe it helps to 
make available the plant food necessary 
for the proper development of fruit. The 
plan followed to secure this result is to 
seed with clover, Timothy and Red-top 
when orchard is first set. In four or five 
years the June or Blue grass crowds in, 
gaining each year after, until finally, by 
cutting and leaving on the ground each 
year we obtain the ideal aftermath. Un¬ 
til the orchard is six or seven years old 
cut the grass and place around the trees 
for a mulch; after that leave where cut. 
We mow the orchard but once a year, 
usually the fore part of July; if season 
is very dry earlier, if wet later. We do 
not pasture at all; it would destroy the 
aftermath. I have never used any com¬ 
mercial fertilizers. I have experimented 
with stable manure. If applied in July 
it will help to strengthen fruit buds, but 
with a good aftermath of grass the re¬ 
sults are satisfactory without it. In a 
full-grown orchard manure would be a 
great help in establishing an aftermath. 
The fruit for this year was severely in¬ 
jured by the freeze of May 10, and also 
to some extent by spraying. We have 
sprayed annually for the past eight 
years. The spraying lesson learned this 
year indicates that it is better to spray 
five times with a weak solution of Bor¬ 
deaux (four pounds copper sulphate to 
50 gallons of water) than three times 
with full strength Bordeaux. The lead¬ 
ing Winter variety grown is Northern 
Spy. That variety, owing to its close 
root system, responds very favorably to 
the mulch method of growing apples. I 
am of the opinion that many varieties 
could be top-worked on Spy to their ad¬ 
vantage. We have a good local market 
and have planted a succession of Fall 
apples that so far have paid well. I do 
little trimming, having observed that 
trees untrimmed from time first set are 
healthier, bear younger, do not set so 
many apples, so they average large, and 
the trees are more likely to bear annual¬ 
ly. Most of the trees have been planted 
in the last 12 years, many of them com¬ 
mencing to bear at five years, and bear¬ 
ing annually since. Those bearing the 
fullest one year would bear the least the 
next year. It is noticeable that the trees 
that were crowded too close when set 
were affected most by the May freeze. 
It looks as though lack of root pasturage 
was the cause of a good many barren or¬ 
chards. GRANT G. HITCHINGS. 
Onondaga Co., N. Y. 
For the land’s sake, use Bowker’s Fer¬ 
tilizers. They enrich the earth.— Adv. 
PEACH 
BASKETS 
t, 4,6,8,10,12,14 and 
16-quart sizes. 
Peach Covers. 
Wooden, Burlap and 
Cotton. 
Berry, Peach and Grape Crates, etc 
Write lor new 1902 Catalogue. 
COLES & COMPANY 
109 Jfc 111 Warren Street, New York. 
Established 1884 
Crimson Clover Seed.—New crop now 
ready. K. 8. JOHNSTON, Box 4. Stockley, Del. 
|—Choice, clean Crimson or 
GLOVER SEED Scarlet of my own raising 
J8.50 ¥> bu.; sacks free. J. C. ELLIS, Hillsboro, Del 
Fruit Tree Notice! 
For Standard, thrifty, trees, fruit and ornamental, look to 
our old reliable nurseries. Finest and most varied stocks, 
including all hardy varieties, true to name, clean, healthy. 
Get Ready for Fall Planting. 
You may not find time in the spring. You willlose fewer 
trees and gain nearly a year's growth. We have just what 
you want. Send for Free Catalogue. 
GEO. A. SWEET NURSERY CO., Box 1 605, Dansvllle, New York. 
Our Catalogue of Bulbs for 
Fall planting is now ready, 
and will be mailed free on 
application. It gives full 
cultural directions, and 
is profusely illustrated. 
J.M.TH0RBURN&C0. 
36 CORTLANDT STREET. NEW YORK. 
Hyacinths®^ tUlips'. 
50 Different Bulbs all for 30c. 
By mail with cultural directions, for garden or pots. 
3 Ixinn, 3 sorts. 
3 SparaxU, 3 sorts. 
3 Alliums, 3 sorts. 
3 Trltelela, white star. 
3 Snxifraca. double white. 
3 Giant K aminculiis. 
3 Spanish Iris. 
3 Freesias, mixed. 
1 Golden Snored Lily 
a Tulips, 1 d ble.l single. 
3 Narclssns," “ 
3 Belgian Hyacinths. 
3 Grape Hyacinths. 
3 Giant Crocus. 
3 Star of Bethlehem. 
3 Oxalls, 3sorts. -- - . 
All different colors, and fine flowering hardy bulbs. 
Also Free to all who apply, our elegant Fall Cata¬ 
logue of Bulbs, Plants and Wds, for Fall p anting and 
Winter blooming Choicest Hyacinths^ Tulips, Isareis- 
sus. Crocus. Lilies, Plants, Shrubs and Fruits. 
New Winter flowering Plants and Bulbs, Crimson 
Dais.v.BlueColetis, Cardinal Freesia.BranehingTulip,etc. 
John Lewis Childs, Floral Park, N.Y. 
T1WCP< Mrj~ Gernl,nated seed read y t0 plaol 
Uli’ijCi'u this Fall. Full directions for 
growing, and price of seed and plants. FREE 
ROYAL GINSENG GARDENS, Little York, N. Y. 
etc., have been the standard of excellence for nearly 
naif a century. Everything of the best at right prices 
for Orchard, Vineyard, Lawn, Park, Street, 
Garden and Greenhouse. We send by mail postpaid 
Seeds, Plants, Roses, Bulbs, Vines, Small Trees, 
etc., and guarantee safe arrival and satisfaction, 
larger by freight or express. Valuable catalogue free. 
Direct deal will insure yon the best and save you 
money. 49th year. 44 greenhouses. 1000 acres. 
THF STORRS & HARRISON CO., 
PAINESVILLE, OHIO. 
FOR A 
Trees, Vines and Plants. 
Apple, Pear, Peach, Plum and Cherry Trees 
of all the leading varieties, in any quaj lty, at very 
low prlc s Trees, extra flue, free from scaleor Insect 
pes's We offer, by the thousand or carload, a beau 
tlful lot of Peach Trees. Don t miss wrltln us foi 
£ rices on them, anu f r Landsom. doscripti.o ?ata- 
)gne. One dormant bud tree of our new List on 
peach mailed fre to ea:h person answering thi« 
advertisement Add ixbs 
THE VILLAGE NUKSERIE8, Haraedsri? , Pa. 
Sweet Cider Apple 
PLANT THE HONEY. 
it produces the most and best. Seventy five other 
varieties of apples and a complete line of stock. 
Catalogue Free. 
C. D. WENGER, Dayton, Va. 
TREE PLANTING IN FALL 
Is recommended by horticulturists of highest author 
lty. The soil is always in better condition, the trees 
uro dormant and start early in Spring, and any pos¬ 
sible loss on account cf unfavorable weather the fol¬ 
lowing season is prevented by Fall planting My 
catalogue is free. MARTIN WAHL, Rochester, N Y. 
GRAPE VINES 
Currants, Gooseberries, Black¬ 
berries, Raspberries, Straw¬ 
berries. Price List FREE. 
Send So .tamp for illustrated descriptive catalog. 
T. S. HUBBARD CO. Fredonla, N. Y. 
■Mg%jps£A ||BIH HI ■ UVA — Free from Scale. New and Choice Varieties. 
|Ktt5 ANU rLANlO Blackberries, Strawberries, Raspberries. 
Our FREE CATALOGUE will save you money. MYER & SON, BridgevlUe, Del. 
TREES 
CO DCD inn APPLK ’ PEAR. PLUM and PEACH: fhealthy/Ltrue to name 
OO i Lll IUUi and Fumigated. All kinds of trees and plants at low whole¬ 
sale prices. Don’t buy until you get our catalogue, which is free, or send list of wants 
for special price. Address RELIANCE NURSERY, Box 1, Geneva, New York. 
WOODVIEW NURSERIES 
know, and you will be benefited by what we have to say. 
invite you to ask them for a catalogue. 
You will not regret it if you do. Write 
now. If we had your name we would 
write to you. You should know what we 
Box IOO, Uriah, Pa 
ROGERS TREES 
ARE DIFFERENT 
FROM OTHERS. 
The Tree Breeders. 
ROGERS ON THE HILL, Dansville, N. Y. 
