1899 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
VAN DEMAN’S FRUIT NOTES. 
All Sorts of Questions Answered. 
Grafting Tyson Pear Trees. —I have some Tyson pear trees 
that I wish to graft to Bartlett. What is the best time to cut the 
grafts, and how shall I keep them ? Will Bartletts be all right 
to graft on Tyson ? w. i. m. 
Stamford, Ont. 
Bartlett will graft on Tyson very well. The time 
to cut the scions is before there is any sign of the 
buds starting. I would cut them at once. The surest 
place to keep them cool and moist is in the ground. 
Wrap them in an old cloth, and bury about six inches 
deep. Lay brush or stones over the place so there 
will be no danger of anything digging or scratching 
them out. If they are put in a damp cellar after wet¬ 
ting the cloth, they will keep quite well, but the 
ground is a little the better. 
Propagating Quinces from Cuttings.— How should quince cut¬ 
tings be propagated, and what per cent are likely to thrive in 
the hands of an average farmer ? I refer to those described in 
the catalogue of Luther Burbank. p. b. c. 
Maryland. 
Quince cuttings are usually made about 10 inches 
long. They are put in the ground in the Spring, 
leaving out about three inches of the top end. The 
earth should be kept well cultivated, as for any crop 
that requires close attention. It is not likely that 
more than half of them will grow under the treat¬ 
ment which they are likely to get from an average 
farmer The varieties of the quince originated by 
Luther Burbank are of the same botanical species as 
our common varieties, and are likely to behave about 
the same. 
SUNSCALDED MAPI.ES; PRUNING KlEFFEIl PEAR TREES.— 1. What 
can be done for maple shade trees four to five inches thick, that 
have been sunscalded and where the borer has made lots of holes? 
The dry bark is off, and the inner wood is exposed to sun and 
rain, but the sound bark is healing over it slowly. At some places, 
the wood shows signs of rotting. 2. I planted 75 standard Kieffer 
pear trees in the Spring of 1197 on fine, rich soil. Last Spring, 
they set three to eignt pears apiece, fine and large. At the same 
time, the trees made a fine wood growth, new wood from two to 
four feet long. Would you advise cutting the new wood back, 
and how much ? A. b. 
Missouri. 
1. All that I can see to do with maple shade trees 
that are sunscalded, and in some cases beginning to 
rot in the injured places, is to use grafting wax or 
thick paint to endeavor to keep out the air and moist¬ 
ure and allow Nature to do the healing as fast as pos¬ 
sible. Any further damage should be prevented if 
possible. Keep the south side of the trunk shaded 
during the heat of Summer; a wrapping of burlap 
will do it, and may help a little in healing, because of 
the evenness of temperature which it will cause. 2. 
Yes, cut back the strong upright growth of the Kieffer 
pear trees ; half of the last year’s growth would be 
none too much. This will prevent tall, slender 
branches, which are likely to break down when loaded 
with fruit, and besides, they are very inconvenient in 
gathering the crop. 
Chestnuts in Massachusetts. —I have on my farm about 10 
acres sloping to the northeast, and covered with a variety of 
growth common to eastern Massachusetts, consisting of oak, 
hemlock, birch and others. As there are some hickory or shell- 
bark trees, I judge that chestnuts, pecans and walnuts will grow 
there. Should there be any chestnuts in the lot, would you ad¬ 
vise cutting down for the purpose of sprouting and grafting with 
Japan chestnuts at a later date ? Would you advise cutting out 
from time to time such wood as would be necessary to give suffi¬ 
cient space for the Japan chestnut, and then transplanting year 
or two-year-old trees ? g. j. m. 
Massachusetts. 
It is probable that the improved chestnuts will grow 
very well on the land described, but it is utterly use¬ 
less to think of growing pecans there or anywhere in 
that latitude. The trees would, probably, be hardy 
enough, but the nuts would not have time to ripen be¬ 
fore frost. It has already been tried with this result 
in Massachusetts. As the land is now in mixed tim¬ 
ber, with only scattered chestnut trees, it would, 
probably, not be wise to attempt to make a chestnut 
orchard of it by the sprout method. This should not 
be attempted anywhere unless the land is naturally 
well covered with chestnut. To undertake to set in 
trees here and there from time to time, as is suggested, 
would be folly, because the care they would require 
could not be properly or profitably given them. Be¬ 
sides, they would be very uneven in size and vigor, 
from their different ages and conditions. There is 
some doubt in the minds of those who have good chest¬ 
nut sprout lands now under .trial with grafts s it, as 
to whether it might not have been better to plant 
chestnut orchards outright on good cleared land. 
There is more or less trouble in getting an even stand 
of grafts, and the rough, stumpy condition of the land 
and lack of straight rows forbid cultivation. Also, 
the nuts are very difficult to gather in the brush. Yet 
there are some good chestnut orchards of this kind 
beginning to bear. In my opinion, it would be better 
in this case to do no more than graft a few of the 
chestnut sprouts in one corner as an experiment, and 
make a chestnut orchard on open land elsewhere on 
the farm. In the present condition of the hickorynut 
and walnut business, I do not believe it would pay to 
do more than allow the best of the wild trees to 
stand, in case the 10 acres are cleared. When we 
learn better how to graft hickory trees success'ully, 
it may pay to work upon the wild trees, and to set 
groves of young ones that have been grafted. 
Trouble With the Plum Trees.— What ails my plum trees? 
Four years ago, I purchased from a New York State nursery six 
varieties. In 1897, several of them bore fine fruit. In 1898, they 
started out with promise of a fine crop, but in August, the leaves 
of about 20 trees began to drop off, and by September 10, not a 
leaf was left, but plenty of fruit; that, too, soon withered and 
was worthless. My land is good loam, with gravelly subsoil, and 
is kept free from grass and weeds, as the hens do the hoeing. 
What is the remedy needed ? M. m. w. 
New Hampshire. 
It is impossible for me to say just what is the cause 
of the trouble, but I believe it was some fungoid dis¬ 
ease of the leaves. The disease may have been on the 
increase for several years past, but did not become 
prevalent enough to be noticed until last year. It 
m ! ght be that there is some trouble at the root, such 
as some stock upon-which the plum buds were set that 
is not congenial, and there is a lack of proper flow of 
sap. My advice would be to examine for any possible 
trouble under the ground, and if none is found, to use 
spraying remedies early next season, of which Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture is, perhaps, the best. The State Ex¬ 
periment Station at Durham, N. H-, will give full 
directions for making and using this. 
Varieties of Plum and Cherry Seeds. —What varieties of 
plum and cherry seeds are the best to plant to graft or bud on, 
that is, those kinds that will not throw suckers from the roots ? 
Frankfort, Ky. B. J. N. 
The Marianna plum is very generally used as a stock 
for the plum. The stocks are grown in the South 
from cuttings, as they root there very readily, and 
will not do so in the North. The seeds of the Myro- 
bolan (which is a species of plum from Europe, and of 
which the Mariannais a variety), are also used to grow 
for plum stocks. I have lately heard that the Satsuma 
plum, which is one of the Japan varieties, makes a 
most excellent stock for the plum and peach, too. If 
this is true, and it will grow from cuttings, then we 
have a very valuable thing that we did not before sup¬ 
pose we had. I do not see why the seedlings of any 
of the Japan plums might not be good for plum, and 
perhaps, peach stocks, too. The trouble would be to 
get the seeds out of the fruit without losing the pulp ; 
for they are nearly all clings, except Ogon. Cherry 
stocks must be of two kinds. The sour cherries should 
be budded on Mahaleb seedlings. The Hearts and 
other rank-growing kinds of the sweet class should 
be worked on Mazzard stocks. This is necessary be¬ 
cause of the diverse natures of the two classes. The 
stock and scion or bud must be reasonably congenial 
if the best results are to follow. 
Ai-ple Scions from Watersprouts. —In going into my orchard 
lately to cut some scions, I found some trees that had not made 
much growth at the ends of the branches last year, so that it was 
difficult to find what I thought good scions. Finding on some of 
these trees some fine sprouts coming out of large limbs, or the 
body of the tree, I cut quite a number of them, and they will 
make fine scions, as far as wood is concerned. Is there any 
objection to using them ? Will they fruit as readily as the end 
growth of a bearing branch, or as soon ? Or will they run to 
barren wood ? A. R. G. 
New York. 
This is the old question of the use of watersprouts 
for grafting. I began to experiment with the use of 
such wood for grafting fully 30 years ago, and in all 
cases in which I have ever tried it, I have never seen 
any difference between the fruitfulness of the grafts 
or trees grown from it and that cut from the bearing 
part of the tree. It would seem reasonable to sup¬ 
pose, and many have claimed it would not be so sure 
to make bearing branches or trees. I have discovered, 
however, that grafts made from watersprout scions 
will not grow so readily as those cut from the tips of 
the branches. The former lack vigor, and it is easy 
to see upon examination that the buds are much small¬ 
er and less prominent than on the scions from the 
bearing part of the tree. Therefore, I always prefer 
and try to select for grafting only such wood as is last 
mentioned, but in case of necessity, use any that I 
can get. It may not be known to some that wood 
that is two years old, or even older, if it has buds 
on it, will do for grafting in when none other is avail¬ 
able. 
Grafting Apple Trees. —1. In grafting seven-year-old trees of 
Hyslop crab and Ben Davis apple, is it advisable to cut the 
whole head off in one season, or is it better to make two seasons’ 
work of it? 2. At what period of growth should the grafting be 
done ? 3. In putting on the wax with a brush, in a melted state, 
will the sun run it off before the union is complete ? If so, what 
is the best way to apply after putting in the scions ? j. a. l. 
Colorado. 
1. It is never advisable to graft all of a large tree of 
any kind the first year. Take the leaders the first 
year, and the subordinate branches the next. The 
aim should be to get the grafts well started on the 
top and other main branches, so those that are left 
uncut cannot overgrow them. If the trees are very 
199 
young, the entire top may be cut off at once. 2. Graft¬ 
ing of apple, pear and most other trees should be done 
before the buds begin to start, and it is very important 
that the scions should be perfectly dormant. Those 
that have their buds swollen will rarely grow, accord¬ 
ing to my experience. 3. I do not like waxing with a 
brush as it is generally done. The wax is often too 
thin over the cracks. I prefer to put it on with my 
fingers so as to make it thick and thin where it is 
needed. Whether the wax is put on with the fingers 
or while hot, with a brush, the best way I have tried 
to prevent the sun melting it off is to stick some 
paper on top of it. I use waxed cloth sometimes, 
which is quickly put on and very durable. It is made 
by soaking old muslin or calico in boiling grafting 
wax, and spreading it out to cool while hot. It can 
then be torn into narrow strips of convenient size to 
use in covering the wounds. 
Apples for Sullivan County, N. Y.—My farm is situated in 
Sullivan County, N. Y., and upon it stands an old apple orchard 
which was allowed to go to ruin, so much so that only a few 
bearing trees remain, from which the fruit that is gathered is 
small in quantity and of no particular merit. I desire to plant 
some apple trees this Spring, and would like a few suggestions. 
1. For a succession, what varieties should I plant, taking into 
consideration the locality ? 2. What would you advise doing 
with the old trees ? 3. Can I grow cow peas for a soiling crop in 
our latitude ? e. a. h. 
New York. 
1. A good list of apples for a family orchard in the 
vicinity of Sullivan County, N. Y., would be about 
as follows : Yellow Transparent, Summer Bose, Early 
Joe, Fanny, Golden Sweet, Maiden Blush, Jefferis, 
Chenango, Gravenstein, Mother, Hubbardston, Tomp¬ 
kins King, Rhode Island Greening, Esopus Spitzen- 
berg, Golden Russet. These are arranged in order of 
ripening. The larger part of the trees should be of 
the Winter kinds, and but a few each of the Summer 
and Fall kinds. 2. It would, probably, be better to 
cut down the old trees than to bother with them, 
unless they are simply stunted by starvation and not 
old and dying. If they are in the former condition, 
it will work wonders to plow the ground and culti¬ 
vate it thoroughly, adding manure of some kind. 3. 
Yes, cow peas will be very serviceable as a soil-improv¬ 
ing crop ; but the early kinds, such as the Little Black, 
Clay or Whippoorwill should be planted. 
Raising Trees on Sandy Land. —In raising nursery stock, is 
sandy soil as good for apple, pear, peach and plum trees as clay 
soil ? Do trees make as many small roots in sand as in clay ? 
Are trees grown on sand as good for planting on clay as though 
they had been grown in clay in the nursery ? a. r. 
Indiana. 
There are some excellent nurseries on sandy land, 
but the land is kept rich by manuring. It would be 
very unwise to endeavor to grow nursery trees on 
poor sandy land, but if the soil is in condition to grow 
a good crop of corn, it would, probably, be very suit¬ 
able for trees. The apple does not usually thrive 
so well on sandy land as on clay, but the peach and 
plum seem to do better. Some of the best orchards of 
these two fruits in the country, both North and South, 
are on sandy soils. The pear is about as well suited 
to sandy as to clay soils. Trees grown in sandy soil 
that is rich are likely to have more fibrous roots than 
those grown in stiff clay. I have often transplanted 
trees from sandy soil into that which was quite stiff 
with clay, and had them do very well. My experience 
would lead me to believe that it does not matter 
whether nursery trees are grown in either sandy or 
clay soil, or into which they are transplanted, pro¬ 
vided they are thrifty, stocky trees. It is wonderful 
what variations of climate and soil the orchard fruits 
named will endure, and how they will flourish, too, if 
they are healthy to begin with, and are then well 
cared for. __ 
From the small tuber of the Sir Walter Raleigh sent me in the 
Spring of 1897, we grew last year from its product, 12% bushels 
which are very nice, averaging very large; some of them weigh 
two pounds. The amount of seed planted was a little more 
than one-half peck, while one-half bushel of the Bovee planted 
by the side of them yielded only 16 bushels. They were planted 
June 1. In the same piece, planted the same day, were some of 
the Early Fortune, Harvest King, al9o seedlings from the Car¬ 
man No. 1 of the years 1896 and 1897, but none of them equaled 
the Raleigh in yield. r. 
Pennsylvania. 
Asparagus seed may now be sown, or roots planted, in the 
North. In the South, Fall planting is advised. Eight ounces of 
seed are advised for 100 yards of row. In planting the roots in 
rows six feet apart, about 6,000 plants are required for the acre. 
The land must be in a good state of cultivation. Prepare the 
ground by opening deep trenches six or eight feet apart. A two- 
horse plow is passed twice to each furrow, throwing the earth 
right and left, and the trench is then deepened by a third pas¬ 
sage of the plow, the roots being planted in the bottom of the 
furrow. 
Value of Shrubs and Fruits. —At the meeting of the Vermont 
Horticultural Society, President Buckham, of the Vermont Uni¬ 
versity, said that he had a small place on which he planted about 
825 worth of trees and small fruits. When he came to sell the 
place, he found that the trees and fruit had added 81,000 to the 
value of the place. We have seen many cases where the addi¬ 
tion of trees, shrubs and fruits to a country place, has added 
both to its rental and selling value. We found this out in hunt - 
ing for a farm to buy or rent. Where ornamental trees and 
fruit9 were abundant and well-eared-for, not only was the price 
higher, but the demand from buyers was very much greater. 
