1899 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
273 
household, are a dainty not to be de¬ 
spised. 
Another homely dainty worth making 
is a sandwich of very thin brown bread 
with cream, and finished with a lettuce 
leaf. The bread should be very thin, the 
leaf should be crisp, and there should be 
a delicate soupeon of mustard to add 
piquancy to the flavor. 
The Housekeeper’s Armor. 
Big aprons and oversleeves are quite 
important parts of my wardrobe. Per¬ 
haps one can get the work done by 2 p 
M , but by 5, we must begin cooking and 
dish-washing again, often with milking 
to do besides. So too often we do not 
change the working dress. With this 
outfit, I can do my evening work, though 
“dressed uo.” The apron has three 
widths, and is slightly longer than the 
dress. The bib covers the waist front 
almost to the neck. Some of my over¬ 
sleeves cover the arm almost entirely, 
others reach just above the elbow. It 
requires about five yards for apron and 
sleeves. My work aprons all have bibs, 
but the common ones do not reach quite 
to the bottom of the dress. Each work 
dress has a pair of oversleeves of the 
same material, or as nearly like it as pos¬ 
sible. They are a great saving. 
The men, too, will appreciate a large 
clean pair of overalls that should be kept 
to wear to do chores when “ dressed up ” 
A clean blouse that will not soil the 
white shirt under it should be on hand, 
and then the common every-day coat 
may be worn over it if needed. Often 
the inside of the work-coat sleeves will 
soil the shirt if this precaution is not 
taken. Some people think that they 
are excusable for being untidy in person 
because they do farm work; but as a 
good old friend of mine says, “ Cleanli¬ 
ness is the result of habits, not circum¬ 
stances.” You will generally find that 
a dirty grown person is lazy, though he 
often blames his work for his untidy 
looks. A man who has a neat barn has, 
usually, a well-tilled farm and a neat 
bank account, and well-kept perfion. 
“ Cleanliness is next to godliness.” ray. 
Advice for Too-Solid Women. 
Harper’s Bazar says that, while gen¬ 
eral exercise is valuable, it is not alone 
sufficient to aid those who are too stout, 
particularly those annoyed by embon¬ 
point, but specific motions are necessary. 
Here is a simple exercise which works 
wonders. It must be performed with 
the corsets and long skirts off. Assume 
a perfectly upright position—that is, put 
the heels together, the arms by the side 
and the head high, and the spine curved 
to throw the chest out and the hips back. 
Then touch the floor in front of the feet 
with the finger tips, without bending 
the knees. Rise to the standing position, 
and repeat 15 times. If there is much 
fatigue, raise the arms over the head be¬ 
fore descending, to soothe and stimulate 
the nerves of the back. This simple 
exercise has been known to reduce the 
weight 20 pounds in three months, the 
greatest effect being over the abdomen. 
At first there will be a difficulty in 
reaching the floor without bending the 
knees, but this can be overcome by per¬ 
sistent effort, which adds interest to 
what might seem monotonous and mean¬ 
ingless. Drop the arms, and by a series 
of up and down motions, like pumping, 
the tense muscles of back and thigh will 
relent, and the hands get nearer to the 
floor. At the end of a week, the diffi¬ 
culty should be overcome, and supple¬ 
ness gained. 
When it comes to (Meting for obesity, 
the rules are so much like those for dys¬ 
pepsia and gout, that invalidism is sug¬ 
gested. Primarily the ban goes out 
against that wicked trio of sweets, fats, 
and starches. All are tabooed, and that 
means a diet so monotonously simple 
that many a one lapses into her former 
state of indulgence, from weariness and 
impatience. There can be no candy, no 
enticing drinks from the soda-water foun¬ 
tain, no sugar in coffee or tea (although 
saccharine can be used), no desserts ; 
neither can there be anything fried, nor 
mayonnaise, nor creamy things, nor fari¬ 
naceous. Vegetables that grow below 
ground—plebeian vegetables, like pota¬ 
toes and beets—must be left out of this 
Spartan diet, and butter is forbidden. 
What is there left ? Why, this : A cup 
of hot water an hour before meals, none 
with food ; fresh meats—except pork— 
and pulled bread, with some indulgence 
in vegetables and fruit. This, of course, 
is severe, but it is necessary for only a 
short time, and surely will lower the 
weight. After a sufficient number of 
pounds have vanished into thin air, 
a more generous diet should be gradually 
adopted. 
The First Silk Hat 
HOW IT CAU8ED AN ARREST FOR BREACH 
OF THE PEACE. 
Men often comment upon the vanity 
which causes women to adopt all sorts 
of eccentric fashions, but in the inci¬ 
dents attending the first appearance*of 
the silk hat, we have a text for a sermon 
upon man's liking for fine plumage. 
These hats, as distinguished from the 
huge shaggy beavers, were invented by 
a London merchant, John Hetherington. 
January 15, 1797, says the Hatters’ Ga¬ 
zette, v as the date fixed by Mr. Hether¬ 
ington for his first appearance in public 
with the new hat, the silk hat of to day. 
He believed that, in the natural course 
of events, he would create a sensation, 
but he was not prepared for the commo¬ 
tion which followed. It was with no 
little trepidation that about 11 o’clock 
in the forenoon, Mr. Hetherington 
emerged from his shop in the Strand. 
His family advised against it, but he 
was determined, and forth he sallied. 
The Strand, as now, was one of the 
busy streets of London, and Mr. Hether¬ 
ington had not walked 10 feet before 
merchants and others, attracted by the 
unusual sight, stopped and gazed in 
wonder. Mr. Hetherington, however, 
moved on, but men who had stopped 
only to look, now followed after him, 
and in less time than it takes to tell it, 
the street was crowded with a howling 
mob. Those on the outskirts of the 
crowd did not know the nature of the 
trouble, if there was any, but they 
helped to swell the din. How Mr. Heth¬ 
erington fared, however, is best told by 
the journals of that date, whose pages 
have been searched by the Tailors and 
Cutters’ special commissioner. One ga¬ 
zette gave this account of the remark¬ 
able event: 
“ John Hetherington, haberdasher, of 
the Strand, was arraigned before the 
Lord Mayor yesterday on a charge of 
breach of the peace and inciting to riot, 
and was required to give bond in the 
sum of £500. It was in evidence that 
Mr. Hetherington, who is well connect¬ 
ed, appeared upon the public highway 
wearing upon his head what he called a 
silk hat (which was offered in evidence), 
a tall structure having a shiny luster, 
and calculated to frighten timid people. 
As a matter of fact, the officers of the 
Crown stated that several women fainted 
at the unusual sight, while children 
screamed, dogs yelped, and a young son 
of Cordwainer Thomas, who was return¬ 
ing from a chandler’s shop, was thrown 
down by the crowd which had collected, 
and had his right arm broken. For 
these reasons, the defendant was seized 
by the guards, and taken before the Lord 
Mayor. In extenuation of his crime, 
defendant claimed that he had not vio¬ 
lated any law of the kingdom, but was 
merely exercising a right to appear in a 
headdress of his own design—a right not 
denied to any Englishman.” 
Another paper of the same date (Jan- 
MOTHERS.—Be sure to use “Mrs. Wins¬ 
low’s Soothing Syrup ” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Best.— Adv. 
uary 16, 1797), in commenting on Mr. 
Hetherington’s appearance, said: 
“In these days of enlightenment, it 
must be considered an advance in dress 
reform, and one which is bound, sooner 
or later, to stamp its character upon the 
entire community. The new hat is des¬ 
tined to work a revolution in headgear, 
and we think the officers of the Crown 
erred in placing the defendant under ar¬ 
rest.” _ 
Coming Shirt Waists. 
One very great change in style is dis-, 
played by the newest shirt waists ; the 
collar is detached, but of the same ma¬ 
terial as the waist. We have been wear¬ 
ing white collars for several seasons now ; 
they are usually more becoming than a 
collar of the colored goods, and it will 
be a little difficult to grow used to the 
change. The white collars are certainly 
preferable in other ways, too, for the 
colored material is likely to fade more in 
the collar than in the waist itself, owing 
to the extra starching. The new collars, 
so far noted, are all of the stand-up 
shape, preferably cut on the bias ; the 
cuffs are bias, also. The sleeves are much 
tighter than last year, having the slight¬ 
est possible amount of fullness at the 
top, and literally none at the cuff. The 
shape of the waist itself shows little 
alteration. 
It is noticeable that the bayadere 
stripes of last year are repeated this sea¬ 
son, many waists being made in this 
style, both waist and sleeves having 
cross stripes. Other styles include striped 
waists having the fronts cut so that the 
stripes run bias, with narrow tucks 
across the bust. These cross tucks in the 
bias material are very pretty. Another 
style, when the material is not bias, is 
to tuck the front vertically for a width 
of about three inches on either side of 
the center, the tucks being almost as nar¬ 
row as cording. The sleeves are often 
tucked across the upper part of the arm. 
In colors, the shirt waists shown so- 
far are very brilliant. Stripes and plaids 
of watermelon red and white are shown 
in gingham and chambray, very showy 
but handsome, and a great variety is 
6een in all shades of lilac, lavender and 
purple. Lettuce green and delicate blue 
are as prominent as last season. Among 
these early displays, gingham, chambray 
and madras predominate. We are prom¬ 
ised an infinite variety of white shirt 
waists, which seem likely to be as popu¬ 
lar as ever. Fashion authorities say 
that simple cotton frocks, consisting 
of a shirt waist with a skirt of the 
same material, will be approved by the 
most critical this Summer, and such a 
style is both pretty and convenient for 
country wear. The skirts are to be 
gored, and either trimmed with fes 
tooned ruffles, or with a gored flounce, 
headed with straps of the same material 
This is a very serviceable style for ging¬ 
ham. pereile or cambric. 
■ The only cheap lamp-chim¬ 
neys there are in the world 
are Macbeth’s — don’t break. 
If you get the one made for 
your lamp, more light besides. 
Get the Index. 
Write Macbeth Pittsburgh Pa 
DINNER SET 
or GOLD WATCH 
with 30 lbs. 8. 8. Chop Tea. Laoe 
Curtains, Watches, Clocks, Tea 
Sets, Toilet Sets, given away with 
$5, $7, $10 and $15 orders. Send this 
“ad.” and 15c. and we will send you 
a sampleof S.8. Chop or anv other 
Tea you may select. The R. N.-Y. 
The Great American Tea Co., 
31 & 33 Yesey St. (Box 289), NewYork 
NEW BECKER 
Washing Machine. 
A fair trial will convince the most 
skeptical of its superiority over all 
other Machines. County rights for 
sale. Agents Wanted. Circulars free 
N. G. BAUGHMAN. York, Pa. 
i$2.45 buys a reed E body Baby Carriage 
page Catalogue Free. We Pay Freight aud ship on 10 
iStivJiiSsadayj trial No money required in advance. Address 
VICTOR MANUFACTURING CO., 
^Ihept. II 56, 295 and 297 Fifth Are., Chicago, li! 
rniiklinlllsfliur 
A FINE FLOUR DFTT1E ENTIRE WHEAT 
as follows:— 
One pint water, one pint milk, one-half 
teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful sugar, 
one tablespoonful butter, one-half fresh 
compressed yeast cake. Stir in enough 
flour to make a fairly stiff batter, then 
stir thoroughly; let rise three hours; 
knead lightly; mould into two loaves, 
let rise again, and hake about one and a 
quarter to one and a half hours in a 
moderate oven. 
Easily done, little work, certain success, and the 
most delicious and beautiful bread ever pro¬ 
duced. But be sure you use Franklin MillsFlour. 
If your grocer does not have it, send us his 
name and your order—we will see that you are 
supplied. THE GENUINE MADE ONLY BY 
FRANKLIN MILLS CO., Lockport, N. Y. 
B. & B„ 
selling for small profits 
as this Dry Goods store does, it can 
afford to and will sell you finer goods 
for as little and less than you’d be asked 
other places for ordinary, indifferent 
styles. 
It’s that kind of merchandising that’s 
bringing us more mail orders every day, 
from all over the United States. 
Wash Goods especially. Assortments 
and styles of these not surpassed by any 
shown in America. Strong statement 
—but the goods are here to prove. Sam¬ 
ples sent soon as you ask for them. 
New Wash Goods 10c., 12>£c , 15c , 
that will show pretty styles don’t cost a 
lot of money here. 
Fine Madras—shirt waists styles—20c. 
Other fine Madras 25c., 35c. 
Best American Percales, 12%e. 
Choice Dimities, 10c , lZ%c., 15c. 
Fine Irish Dimities, 20c., 25c. 
Most superb collection of beautiful 
Dress Cottons 20 to 50c. yet shown. 
New Spring Silks—handsome Foulards 
and Printed Satin Libertys, 65c , 75c , 
85c. 
See what dressy Dress Goods 50c., 75c. 
to SI.50. 
Send name and address with request 
for the new 200-page illustrated cata¬ 
logue—also the Summer Glove booklet. 
BOGGS & BUHL, 
Department C, 
ALLEGHENY, PA. 
PETROLATUM 
On receipt of tlfty (50) cents, we will 
semi you, post-paid. ONE POUND can 
of PURE PET HOF AT Ull, (com - 
mouly called Vaseline). No family 
should be without this very useful 
medicinal and healing article. Send 
money by Post-office or Express 
Money Order or Registered Letter. 
derrick oil company, 
Titusville, Pa. 
Fast Dyes for Cotton. 
Brilliant and Unfading Colors 
Made by Diamond Dyes. 
A TEN-CENT INVESTMENT OFTEN 
SAVES DOLLARS 
Professional dyers always use different dyes for 
cotton than for wool, as cotton is a vegetable fiber, 
while wool comes from an animal. In Diamond 
Dyes there are some fifteen fast colors that are pre¬ 
pared especially for cotton and mixed goods. These 
dyes give colors that even washing in strong soap¬ 
suds or exposure to sunlight will not fade. 
For coloring carpet rags, rugs, and everything 
liable to exposure to sunlight or to hard usage, noth¬ 
ing equals the Diamond Dyes. People whose rag 
carpets have been colored with Diamond Dyes say 
that the color lasts as long as the carpet itself. 
Sample card of colors and direction book free 
Wells, Richardson & Co., Burlington, Vt. . 
