1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
io9 
Shrubs for Winter Ornament. 
likely to be hampered by ice or snow. A 
pretty little member of the Grape-vine 
family from Japan, Vitis heterophylla, 
would be pretty to train up on a tree ; it 
has variegated green and white leaves, 
and small berries, crimson when par¬ 
tially ripe, bright turquoise blue when 
mature. The new Vitis CoignetiiB would 
be useful for this purpose, but while in 
England it turns a brilliant red in 
Autumn, complaints are made by many 
who have tried it, that it does not color 
so well in this country. Apparently, it 
demands a moister atmosphere than we 
can give it, to develop its finest coloring. 
•/. B., Monmouth County, N. ./.—Are there any 
trees or shrubs which may he recommended as 
especially ornamental in Winter, besides the ever¬ 
greens? I should like something that would give 
variety. 
Ans.—T here are several trees and 
shrubs that will vary the landscape 
effect in winter by their brilliantly- 
colored bark. Prominent among these, 
are the dogwoods. The Red-branched 
dogwood, Cornus sanguinea, and the Red 
Siberian variety, C. Tatarica (synonym 
Sibirica) are particularly brilliant in 
color, especially towards Spring. The 
wild Osier dogwood, C. stolonifera, 
usually has red or purplish bark in 
Winter. Several of the willows are 
similarly ornamental. The Palm-leafed 
willow displays reddish-purple young 
wood. The Golden willow has showy 
yellow bark in winter, and there is a 
newer Russian variety of it that is still 
brighter in color. Another variety of 
the same willow, bearing the imposing 
name of Salix vitellina Britzensis, has 
red bark in Winter, similar to the Siber¬ 
ian dogwood. There are several yellow- 
barked lindens, some of them very orna¬ 
mental. The White birch gives a pleas¬ 
ant variety in the winter landscape. By 
a judicious mixture of flowering trees 
and shrubs, with those displaying orna¬ 
mental fruit or brightly-colored bark, it 
is possible to make this class of planting 
attractive at all times of the year. 
Vines on Trees. 
J. L. H., Cape May County, JV. J .—I have some 
old trees with ugly bare trunks, which I should 
like to make more ornamental by covering with 
vines. What could I use for this purpose? Would 
it hurt the trees? 
Ans.—. 1. L. B. does not tell us what 
variety of trees he has, or their condition, 
except that they are old. If so old as to 
be unsightly, it is quite possible that 
they may be decayed to the point of in¬ 
security and, if so, they should be re¬ 
moved. The addition of vines to cover 
their deficiencies would only add to their 
danger. If, however, they are sound, 
there is no special reason why vines 
should not be used to enhance their 
beauty. We have seen trees most pic¬ 
turesquely overgrown with the Boston 
ivy (Ampelopsis Veitehii) and, when this 
once starts to grow, there is no trouble 
in making it take hold. Its native cousin, 
the wild Virginia creeper, grows ram¬ 
pantly in such a position, but is coarser 
in appearance, and the Boston ivy is 
more preferable for covering a bare 
trunk. English ivy forms a desirable 
covering for tree trunks in localities 
where it does well. 
Where a vine is desired to clamber up 
into the branches of a tree, the Wistaria 
will give a fine effect ; the Japanese 
gardeners arrange it in this manner. It 
may, however, finally strangle the tree, 
for the Wistaria Imgs its supporter al¬ 
most as closely as some of the parasitic 
vines of the tropics. Bittersweet or 
Climbing Waxwork is suitable for this 
work ; we have seen it climbing over old 
Red cedars, displaying its vivid fruit 
among the dark foliage with brilliant 
effect. Clematis panicu’ata would give 
a beautiful Summer effect, and could be 
cut down in the Winter, thus doing away 
with extra weight when the trees are 
Peonies from Seed. 
A. A'., Minnesota. —I received from Germany 
some seeds of Pseonia arborea. Will you give 
directions for planting them ? How many years 
from seed before they bloom ? I have heard that 
it takes three years. 
Ans. —The seeds should be sown as 
soon as they are ripe; they do not im¬ 
prove by keeping. Better sow them, 
without delay, in a shallow box, putting 
this in a cold frame. They take six or 
eight months to germinate, and often do 
not show above ground the first year, 
spending all their energy in making 
roots. If they appear to be growing next 
year plant them in a nursery bed. They 
flower the third or fourth year from 
seed, but their character cannot be de¬ 
cided by the first flowering, as they are 
likely to change very materially for the 
better as they grow older. 
Frozen Kentia. 
Mrs. J.. Dutchess County, N. Y. A small plant 
of Kentia Belmoreaua, standing near the win¬ 
dow in a moderately warm sitting-room, appears 
to be suffering from some disease of the foliage. 
Several of the leaves are drying up to a papery 
texture, and appear to be dead. They have not 
turned brown, but merely a lighter green, as if 
they were drying up. What is the trouble, and 
what can I do for it ? The trouble appeared after 
a few days of very cold weather. 
Ans. —There is little doubt that the 
affected leaves were frozen. Cut them 
off, and allow the plant to recover slow¬ 
ly, watering sparingly until it begins to 
grow. Keep it rather cool. It should 
come around all right, though the loss 
of foliage may make it rather unsightly 
until more growth is made. The Kentias 
are not so hardy as the Chinese Fan palm 
and, when near a window, one plant 
may be in a current of air that will not 
affect others nearby. 
Dinsmore Rose. 
F. F., Henderson County, Ii.i,. —In The 
R. N.-Y. for January 1, a list of hardy 
roses for cemetery planting is given. 
This does not include Dinsmore, a red 
rose. It is not so pretty as Jacqueminot, 
but is the best bloomer, during Summer 
and Fall, of all hardy roses that I have 
ever grown. I think it would be more 
largely grown if better known. 
Early Chrysanthemums. 
E. R., Plainfield, N. J.—The inquiry 
about Chrysanthemums, answered in a 
recent R. N.-Y., leads me to say that, 
for three years, I have grown the early- 
flowering Japanese class in the open 
ground, and that they are among our 
most highly prized garden flowers. A 
packet of seed will yield nearly all the 
forms and colors of the large-flowering 
kinds, some single, some fully double, 
and the best of them nearly five inches 
in diameter. They are extremely florif- 
erous, beginning to bloom about October 
10, and lasting until cut down by severe 
freezing. They don’t mind moderate 
frosts. Last year, the Fall being open, 
they made a magnificent show for six- 
weeks, and eight or nine weeks after we 
cut the first, we had still a few cut flow¬ 
ers in the house. They will pay for the 
trouble of stretching a carriage sheet 
over them the coldest nights. But few 
MOTHERS.—Be sure to use “Mrs. VVins- 
-ow’s Soothing Syrup” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Best.— Adv. 
of them are hardy here, so I sow the seed 
every Spring in a little box in the house, 
and plant them out about May 1. They 
have been set a foot apart or less ; it is 
too close, and l think that 17 inches each 
way will not be too much. I had an 
opportunity to inspect a collection of 
named varieties of this early elass last 
Fall, and can say that only a few of 
them were superior to the best of my 
seedlings. Comparatively few seedsmen 
offer the seed, but it may be had from 
some of them in New York, possibly 
elsewhere. 
It will be a good plan to start a few 
sweet peas in pots now. Try Cupid in 
this way, as well as the tall growers. 
They should be put outside as early as it 
seems safe, but should be hardened by 
being kept in a very cool, airy place be¬ 
fore transplanting, and should be put 
out with as little disturbance of the roots 
as possible. 
If some extra-early Asters are wanted 
for pots or bedding, they may be sown 
in the middle of February, but it is still 
too early for the main crop of these and 
other annuals. When starting the main 
lot of seeds, it will be well to try a few 
Japan Morning-glories ; they are so much 
later than the ordinary type that it will 
be an advantage to give them a start. 
Show Pelargoniums, popularly called 
Lady Washington Geraniums, may now 
be moved into the pot in which they 
flower, a five or six-inch. They should 
be potted firmly in rather eoarse, turfy 
loam, with one-fourth well-rotted ma¬ 
nure. Keep them in a cool, airy place, 
and do not over-water. They suffer quite 
badly from aphis, so should be either 
fumigated or sprayed with tobacco 
water. When in flower, a cold, damp 
atmosphere should be avoided. 
II K I PC Vegetable 
llnLLj .Sicilian 
HAIR RENEWER 
Gray hair warns us of old 
age. Renew your hair and 
laugh at the warning. 
^Challenge baldness 
—it won't 
come. 
ALL THE LAWS 
SB 
of tho Land will not Koop 
peace in a neighborhoods tho fences 
are bad. Theremedyf Huy anil build ’ 
CYCLONE FENCE 
and bo peaceable, happy and content.’ 
TURNS EVERYTHING. 
CYCLONE FENCE CO. HOLLY, MICH. 
• PLOW TO THE LINE. 
• Row close can yon plow to a hedgo! Or for that 
• matter a rail fence or a barb wire fence! Did you 
• over stop to count up your annual loss from not 
• being- able to cultivate that strip of land! You 
at can plow right up to the posts of the Keystone 
a Fence. There Is no waste land when it is used, 
gj Wo send inquirers a free book on fence building. 
• KEYSTONE WOVEN WIRE FENCE CO., 
• No. in Rush St., Feorls, ill. 
FIELD AND HOG FENCE. 
with or without lpwercable barbed. AH horizontal linos 
are cables, not eifected tty iieat and cold. Steel Picket 
Lawn and M.M.S. Poultry Fence, Steel dates, Posts, etc. 
UNION FENCE CO. DeKalb. III. 
A Spring at Each End 
of a wire mattress won't do. 't must •’give" 
wherever one chances to touch It. So in wire fence, 
the spring is needed wherever the shock may come. 
The continuum, coil principal is the only solu¬ 
tion, and It belongs to u* only. See "ad" in next 
issue. 
PAGE WOVEN WIRE FENCE CO., Adrian, Mich. 
Advance Fence 
SB 
SIS 
5H IS SOLD DI¬ 
MS RECT TO THE 
FARMER. WE 
PAY FREIGHT 
AND IS SOLD 
ONLY THAT WAY. 
That saves ttie 
annerallthe inlddlcninn’H profit and brings ills fence 
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done with the job. IT’S ALL INTERWOVEN; no 
loose end., TIE WIRES CANNOT SLIP. Don’t 
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ADVANCE FENCE CO., 9 Old St. Peoria, HI. 
iADAM 
THE FENCE MAN 
Makoo Woven Wire 
Fanco that "Stand* 
Up.” Cannot Sag. 
} Get hi* neweataiogue. It 
I toils *11 about Tho Bast 
Farm Fence Made. . 
W. J. ADAM, JoT 
THE CHEAPEST REALLY GOOD 
FENCE 
Eureka Fence Machine. Its use saves you nil the 
nil the middleman's profit. That is . 
manufacturer's profit and al 
hy 
) to 
ran . . 
why with its aid you can build a really first class fence at from 
Is that which is mails with our < 
_ _ j ou all 
middleman's profit. 
10 to 20 cents per rod. We nr 
EUREKA FENCE cA. 
per rod. We Drove It. Write for free circulars. 
FENCE Cl). Hex Y Klrlimond, Ind. 
“CLIMAX” POULTRY NETTING. 
Strongest and best. Prices low and freight paid 
Send stamp for catalogue. 
JAMES S. CASE, Colchester, Conn. 
02«IFQ 
VICTORIES.^* 
FOUR MEDALS—3 Gold and 1 Silver, World's Centennial 
Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, 1884. 
HIGHEST AWARDS—Nebraska Agricultural Fair, 1887. 
DIPLOMA—Alabama Agr'l Society, Montgomery, 1888. 
AWARD—Chattahoochle Valley Exposition, Colum- 
bu s, Ga., 1888. _ 
HIGHEST AWARDS—St. Louis Agricultural and 
M echanical Association, 1889. 
GOLD MEDALS and 6 DIPLOMAS—World’s Colum¬ 
bian Exposition, Chicago, 1893. 
HIGHEST AWARDS—Western Fair Association, Lon- 
don , Canada, 1893. __ 
SIX GO LD MEDALS and D iplomas—Cal. Midwinter Fair '94 
SILVER MEDAL —Industrial Exp osition, Toronto, Canada, 1895. 
345,584 Home Comfort flange* Sola to Jan. Ist,’97 
nTRange Illustrated sold throughout the United States and 
the Canadas at a uni form price from our ow n wagons. 
Made of open hearth, cold rolled steel-plate and malleable 
Iron —will last a life-time with ordinary care. 
WROUGHT IRON RANGE CO., 
Founded 1864. Paid up Capital Sl.OOO.OOO. 
Factories, Salesrooms and Offices: ST. LOUIS, MO., and TORONTO, CANADA. 
Western Salesrooms and offices: DENVER, €01,0. 
IWWe manufacture and carry a complete stock of Hotel Ranges and Kitchen goods; also the 
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RHEUMATISM 
Permanently cured by using DR. WHITEHALL’S RHEUMATIC OURK. The surest andthf^eii^Sample 
aent free on mention of this pnblloation. THK DR. WHITKHALL MKGRIMINK OO., South Bend Indiana. 
