1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
I 21 
produce seedlings of such character as will quite 
closely resemble it. 
Peach Planting and Budding. —1. Would you advise planting 
peach trees in Fall or Spring ? 2. Can peach sprouts that come 
from seeds this next Spring, be budded in June? Will the wood 
be hard enough ? j. o. h. 
Valley Springs, Ark. 
1. Early Spring is usually the best time to plant 
peach trees in Arkansas and all of the central States. 
2. Peach seedlings that come from the seed next 
Spring can be budded in the southern States about the 
last of June of the same year. If the work be skill¬ 
fully done and at just the right stage of their growth, 
that is, just when the stocks have become large enough 
and the bark and wood firm enough to handle without 
injury, nice little trees can be made ready for planting 
in the orchard the next Spring. It is necessary to 
have buds taken from other trees for insertion that 
are sufficiently developed to grow very soon. When 
they are set, it is best to crop about half the top off the 
seedling, thus causing a forcing of lower growth on 
the stock, and this will cause the newly-set bud to 
start as soon as it has grown fast. I have tried bend¬ 
ing down the top and various degrees of heading back 
the stock at time of budding, even to cutting it off 
close to the bud (which later killed the entire seedling), 
but cropping half of it was best with me. When the 
young shoot is well started, cut off the stock as in 
Spring, and keep other sprouts rubbed off. If the 
season be fair, the young wood will harden up by frost, 
in Arkansas. 
Pears, Plums and Pruninq. 
A. C. F ., North Peering, Me. —What varieties are best to fertilize 
the following fruit: Crosby peach, Abundance plum, Bartlett, 
Sheldon, dwarf Seekel, standard Seekel, and Koonce pears? Will 
you compare Koonce, Le Conte and Seneca pears, with common 
varieties ? What are the earliest grapes that are the hardiest and 
most likely to bear here ? I am within three miles of salt water, 
and frosts come by September 10, usually. Will plums do well on 
clay soil, thoroughly drained two feet deep ? Would currants do 
well on the above land ? Will pears do well on clay land drained 
to a depth of three feet? Will apples do well on clay land drained 
to a depth of four feet ? At all of the above depths, water will 
stand all the year around. I have an idea that, in pruning trees, 
one branch of each on the new growth should be cut off. What 
say you ? I shall set out an orchard of plums this Spring ; below 
are the varieties I purpose to plant; which would you omit, or are 
they all good ? I know more depends on mixing varieties in 
orchards than is generally supposed. All these varieties are 
purple, and will mix the pollen from early to late. Quackenboss, 
Prince Englebert, Shropshire Damson, Shipper’s Pride, German 
Prune, Italian Prune, Moore’s Arctic, Fellenberg, Guil. 
Ans. —Although the matter of suitable varieties of 
pears to pollinate certain other varieties has not been 
thoroughly worked out as yet, it is quite well proved 
that Bartlett and Sheldon are not well able to pollen- 
ize their own flowers, and that liuffum and Bose will 
cause them to be fruitful. Seekel is self-fertile, either 
on pear or quince roots. The same is true of Koonce. 
Le Conte is a mid-season pear, ripening about with 
Bartlett or a little later, of about the same size, but 
poor in quality. For Maine, it would be worthless. 
Koonce is very early, of good size but not rich in qual¬ 
ity. It is fit only for market purposes in any section. 
It is a question as to the success of any kinds of grapes 
where the Spring is as late as it is in Maine, and the 
frost as early as September 10. Perhaps Winehelland 
Moore’s Early will do as well as any that could be 
tried. Plums do well on clay soil, if well drained. 
The varieties named are among the best in the list. I 
have several of them doing very well in the orchards 
of Maine. Pears, apples and currants all do well in 
clay soil that is well drained, but it is not well to put 
these or any of the fruits named on low, level land. 
Currants will bear the most moisture in the soil and 
grapes the least. As to pruning trees, there is no 
rigid rule. Common sense is a far better guide than 
any fancy idea. Do not be severe with the knife, or 
think that half the young branches should be cut off. 
It is well to cut back the young growth of trees, in 
case they grow very long and are likely to make the 
trees ill-shaped. h. e. v. d. 
The Culture of Blueberries. 
V. E., Waterloo, N. H. —I wish tc grow blueberries in those 
rocky and rough corners of our fields occupied now by hardback 
and other worthless bushes and trees. How can I best propagate 
the bushes? How do they propagate themselves? What soil 
and cultivation do they require ? What about pruning them ? 
Ans. —The blueberry is usually propagated by 
division of the plant, though sometimes by seed, and 
by cuttings and layers. Bushes for your purpose may, 
probably, be obtained in pastures near by. If not, 
send to some one in the vicinity of the blueberry plains 
for plants. The soil best suited for blueberries is a 
light sand. The blueberry fields of Maine are usually 
light, almost barren hills and plains where, since the 
pine timber was removed, little but sweet fern, bard- 
hack, alder, and other comparatively worthless plants 
are found. As a rule, no culture is given, but every 
third year, the field is burned over early in the Spring. 
This burning kills or checks the larger growth for a 
few years, and the ashes provide sufficient fertilizing 
materials for the blueberry bushes, the roots of which 
are uninjured by the fire. No pruning other than the 
burning is required. Several well-marked varieties 
are known. One of the most productive of these is 
the Sour-top, which grows from 10 to 15 inches high, 
and bears large fruit covered with a very heavy bloom. 
w. M. MUNSON. 
How to Thrash Cow Peas. 
B. B., Farming dale. 111 .—What is the best way of thrashing cow 
peas and Soja beans ? At a recent meeting of the Illinois Horti¬ 
cultural Society, this question was put, and about the only 
answers were, “Hand pick the pods and f'ail them out,” or 
“Tramp out with horses.” Such answers are a weariness to the 
mind, at this date of the world’s history. 
Ans. —For thrashing large quantities of peas and 
beans, I have used a thrasher made expressly for 
that purpose. The machine is manufactured at Brock- 
port, N. Y., and is similar, in general appearance, to 
a grain thrasher and separator, but the cylinder and 
concaves are fitted with teeth so shaped and arranged 
that the peas and beans are not broken or injured in 
passing through it. It is run by a 12-horse-power 
engine, and has a capacity of 500 to 800 bushels per 
day. It is claimed by some that an ordinary grain 
thrasher may be rigged to do very good work on peas, 
by removing part of the teeth on the concaves, and 
lowering them, in order to pass beans without split¬ 
ting. With me, it is an object to leave my vines on the 
ground for plowing under, and to secure the very best 
possible quality of seed, so I have the ripe pods picked 
by hand from the standing vines, and thrash them 
out with a Dixie pea and bean huller, made in Georgia. 
This machine runs by hand power, and saves all the 
peas without splitting or breaking any. It has a 
capacity of 40 to 00 bushels per day, and cost $27.50. 
Delaware. e. g. PACKARD. 
Permanent Pasture for Sheep. 
E. E. B., Shokan, N. V .—I am clearing a clay loam sidehill for 
a permanent sheep pasture. I want to begin pasturing this sea¬ 
son. What seed will be best to sow? What variety of cow peas 
shall I sow ? What seed for knolls in an old pasture ? 
Ans. —If you want to begin pasturing this season, 
you should have started your pasture last season ; but 
as you did not, the question is how to get quickest re¬ 
turns from the land. Plow the ground as early in 
Spring as possible. Buy five cents’ worth of blue lit¬ 
mus paper and press it against the moist soil, being 
careful that the perspiration on the fingers does not 
come in contact with the blue paper. Leave the paper 
pressed in the soil for five minutes. If the paper turn 
red, it indicates that the soil is acid and that, to meet 
with success in growing grasses, the acid condition 
must be removed. After harrowing, sow broadcast, 
20 to 40 bushels of quick lime per acre, and harrow 
again. This lime is to be used only in case the soil is 
found acid. 
After the thorough preparation of the seed-bed in 
the Spring, sow the following mixture per acre and 
cover lightly with the smoothing harrow : Four quarts 
of Timothy seed, one-half bushel Kentucky Blue grass, 
three pounds of Red-top, two quarts of Red clover, 
one quart of Alsike clover. Let the grass get a good 
start before turning the sheep on it, and take them 
off before they have eaten it close. Sheep, if allowed 
to do so, will ruin a pasture, especially a young one. 
If a permanent pasture is given an occasional top¬ 
dressing of commercial fertilizer relatively rich in 
nitrogen and potash, it responds readily to the treat¬ 
ment. 
Cow peas grow to perfection in the southern States. 
New York State is not adapted to their best growth, 
yet they will make a large growth here, but may fail 
to mature before frost takes them. The Early Black 
has given good satisfaction as far north as northern 
New Jersey and New Y r ork State. In the North, their 
value is chiefly as a forage crop or to plow under. 
On knolls in old pastures, sow a mixture of the 
grass seeds recommended above, and harrow well. 
Give a top-dressing of barnyard manure, and then 
keep stock off until the grass has become well estab¬ 
lished. Frequently, brush may be piled on the bare 
places and stock kept off in that way. Test the old 
pasture soil for acidity, and if found sour, give a 
dressing of lime. l. a. c. 
How to Prevent Garget. 
A. //. N., Hanover, Maes .—What is the best thing to give cows 
to prevent inflammation in the udder, that is preliminary to the 
garget ? I cannot feed any cow I have had, many months, with 
what is given as a balanced ration, without using her up. I have 
fed saltpeter quite freely, but don’t like to be feeding that all the 
time. 
Ans. —It is not best to give anything to prevent in¬ 
flammation of the udder. It is only after inflammation 
has been caused that remedies are demanded. The 
inflammation should be avoided, not by giving reme¬ 
dies, but by avoiding the causes that tend to excite or 
cause congestion and inflammation ; such as blows or 
injuries of any kind to the udder ; exposure to cold or 
wet, standing in a cold draught, or sudden extreme 
changes of weather ; lying on a cold, wet surface, the 
edge of a board or any pointed body; overfeeding, 
especially on foods rich in albuminoids. There is, 
evidently, some fault in the care or management of 
your cows, or you are overfeeding them. If you can 
find no other course, try reducing the grain ration 
one-fourth or more, if necessary, until the trouble 
ceases. 
Cow Manure for Asparagus. 
E. W. E., Saxonville, Maes. —We have two acres of asparagus, 
and have always manured it with horse-stable manure. Could 
cow-stable manure alone be used for this purpose? 
Ans. —Horse-stable manure is preferable, but cow- 
stable manure will furnish a good substitute, and a 
liberal application of some good brand of chemical 
fertilizer in connection with the cow-stable manure 
will accomplish first-class results. The particular ad¬ 
vantage of horse-stable manure is its tendency to 
lighten the soil. d. starkey. 
Bisulphide of Carbon for Melon Lice. 
V. F., Ocean Springs, Miss.—' The method given in The R. N.-Y. by 
M. V. S., for destroying aphis on cucumber vines, no doubt would 
apply also to melons. It is recommended to invert tubs or dishes 
over plants; that is just what I did last summer with water¬ 
melon plants, on some of which aphis appeared before the plants 
made vines. I hilled the soil up around the plant so as to elevate 
the basin which was to be put over the plant, and put half a brick 
in the middle to elevate the saucer in which I put the bisulphide 
of carbon. The first trial I made one afternoon ; I put about two 
spoonfuls of bisulphide of carbon in the saucer, covered quickly, 
and left it for about two hours; when I uncovered it, plant, lice, 
and all were dead. Thinking it might have been too warm under 
the basin, as it was a bright day, I made another trial early the 
following morning, when the plants were moist with dew, using 
but one spoonful of bisulphide of carbon; but after uncovering 
in about an hour, I found the same result as by the first trial. 
The plants looked as if scalded. Will M. V. S. tell us just how 
much bisulphide of carbon it takes to kill the aphis, but not the 
plants ? 
ANSWERED BY M. V. SLINGERI.AND. 
Carbon bisulphide has been recommended by both 
the Kentucky and New Jersey Experiment Stations 
as a practical and successful remedy for the Melon 
aphis. After reading the accounts of the experiments 
conducted by both experiment stations, and compar¬ 
ing these with the experience of C. F., I am at a loss 
to account for the death of the latter’s plants, unless it 
be that he confined them in too small a space and used 
too much of the liquid, or kept the plants covered too 
long. Prof. Garman concluded, from his experiments 
in Kentucky, that “ under a tub of medium size, a 
tablespoonful should be allowed to act for 1% hour. 
Two tablespoonfuls may be made to do the work 
quicker, but this quantity can be left about inclosed 
vines for the same time without doing the plants any 
injury ”. His experiments were made after the vines 
had begun to run, but whether the tub was a wash- 
tub or not is not stated. 
Prof. Smith, of New Jersey, tried his experiments 
on the hottest day of the season, the thermometer 
registering 93 degrees in the shade, with no wind 
stirring. The vines had just begun to run, and he 
used wooden bowls 13 inches in diameter and six 
inches deep in the center, and some square boxes, 
anything but tight. From his experiments, he has 
recently concluded that The plants must be covered 
with some tolerably tight cover of almost any kind. 
It should be no larger than necessary to inclose the 
hill, and the vines may even be crowded under it with¬ 
out injury and without affecting the action of the 
insecticide. One dram of bisulphide of carbon evap¬ 
orated in one cubic foot of space will kill every Melon 
louse in about an hour. A dram may be roughly 
measured as a teaspoonful, and it should be evaporated 
in a shallow receptacle placed upon the surface of the 
ground, but it should not be poured upon the soil. 
The vapor of the bisulphide is heavy, and sinks. First 
of all, then, it is important that whatever cover is 
put upon the hill should be forced a little into the 
soil to prevent the vapor from flowing out underneath 
before it fills the space. A clam shell makes an ex¬ 
cellent evaporating dish, and has the advantage of 
being very cheap. 
“ Where a melon field is closely looked over every 
other day, it will be possible to discover infested hills 
and to treat them promptly, and thus prevent a gen¬ 
eral distribution on the entire field. The element of 
promptness is most important here. The melon 
grower should be absolutely ready to make his appli¬ 
cation the moment he discovers the first signs of in¬ 
festation. As to the form of the covers, it does not 
much matter ; they may be square, oblong or dome¬ 
shaped, though the last is preferable. Paper hay- 
caps are very satisfactory, or the paper-ware tubs 
that are sometimes seen. It is possible to make an 
equally effective cap out of heavy paper or duck cloth. 
* * * * Melon vines lie close to the surface of the 
ground, and it is difficult, even with an underspray 
nozzle, to reach all parts. The vapor of the bisul¬ 
phide penetrates everywhere, and reaches every plant 
louse, no matter how well protected. For this reason, 
the bisulphide is recommended, and also because, in 
the long run. it is the cheapest. If the insects coming 
on in June are destroyed on a melon field, the work 
of the season may be considered done, provided there 
are no negligent neighbors and no nearby fields where 
the insects are allowed to multiply unchecked.” 
