1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
129 
The Garden. 
Leaking Greenhouse. 
Subscriber, Wyoming County, Pa. — I have a 
greenhouse, and am troubled to keep it from leak¬ 
ing. Putty does not seem to keep the water out. 
What is commonly used for this purpose ? 
Ans. —Subscriber does not give suffi¬ 
cient detail for a satisfactory answer. 
One of the commonest causes of leaky 
greenhouse roofs is imperfect or careless 
glazing, especially with inferior glass, 
which is warped or otherwise defective. 
If the glass is butted, instead of lapping 
over, there is bound to be a good deal of 
leakage. Large panes of double-thick 
glass are so heavy that they do not keep 
in place well when lapped, but in butt¬ 
ing, leakage is obviated by using a 
patent zinc joint. There should be no 
leakage, so long as the roof is in good 
repair, if the glass is properly laid in the 
first place, but where the glazing is de¬ 
fective, extra putty is useless, since it 
is the juncture of glass with glass, and 
not that of glass with rafters, which 
causes the trouble. Reglazing would be 
the only effectual remedy. 
Black Flies and White Worms. 
G. M. II., Canada. —What will kill the little black 
flies and white worms that are iu the pots of 
house plants ? 
Ans. —We infer, from the imperfect 
description given, that these flies are a 
species of Sciara, or Fungus gnat, often 
a pest in mushroom cellars, and occa¬ 
sionally in greenhouses. We have never 
before received any complaint of their 
appearance among house plants. We 
don’t think that they are likely to do 
any damage, though they are unpleasant 
guests. These flies frequent decaying 
vegetable matter or fungus, in which the 
larvae feed. The latter are slender white 
worm-like creatures, with black heads. 
Sometimes, when full-grown, they ac¬ 
quire a curious habit of wandering about 
in a close band, looking like a long slen¬ 
der snake. Cases are reported where the 
larvas have wandered in an army five or 
six inches wide, and 12 feet long. We 
advise G. M. H. to observe rigid cleanli¬ 
ness about the plants, that there be no 
decaying leaves, fungus or mold about 
them. The flies may be destroyed by 
fumigating with tobacco, by filling the 
air with Pyrethrum powder or by spray¬ 
ing with kerosene emulsion. Not know¬ 
ing where the plants are situated, it is 
hard to advise the best means of destroy¬ 
ing the flies. The larvae are not easily 
killed, but Dr. Lintner advises, for this 
purpose, that the earth be soaked with 
water containing Pyrethrum powder in 
the proportion of one ounce to four gal¬ 
lons. 
Questions About Plants. 
J. T. T., Essex County, N. ./.—Will you give plain 
cultural directions and mode of treatment, dur¬ 
ing all periods, of the following plants: 1. Azalea 
(the potted variety, now being forced under 
glass). 2. Cyclamens. 3. Everblooming Prim¬ 
rose (Primula obconica). 4. Cineraria grandi- 
flora. 5. Gloxinias ? 6 . When will be the proper 
time to start Canna and Dahlia tubers in a cool 
greenhouse ? 
Ans. —1. The plants of Azalea Indica 
which make such a show during Winter 
and Spring, are, for the most part, grown 
in Europe, especially Holland and Bel¬ 
gium. They are grown in nursery beds, 
dug up, and shipped here in the Fall. 
When these semi-dormant plants are re¬ 
ceived, the florists here pot them at once 
in a compost consisting of two-thirds 
loam and one-third leaf mold. They 
must be potted very firmly, the soil being 
rammed down at the side of the pot with 
a flat stick. As they have a very hard 
ball of roots, and are extremely dry when 
received, it is well to stand the plant in 
a tub of water for a few minutes before 
potting it ; otherwise the ball is so much 
harder and drier than the soil added 
when potting, that subsequent waterings 
run right through the soil, without really 
reaching the roots. There is no doubt 
that neglect of this precaution is often 
the cause of trouble with Azaleas. When 
first potted, or when taken in in the 
Fall, Azaleas should be started in a cool 
greenhouse temperature, ranging from 
40 to 45 degrees at night. As the season 
advances, a higher temperature may be 
given, if it is desired to hurry blooming, 
but they make their best growth in a 
temperature of 45 to 55 degrees at night, 
and the flowers last longer than when 
warmer. When they are making buds, 
remove the little weak leaf-shoots that 
may appear around the flowers ; you do 
not want them to make a lot of new 
growth until the flowering is over. 
Water liberally, yet do not allow the soil 
to become sodden. In an over-hot, dry 
place they are likely to suffer from 
thrips, and greenfly is another enemy ; 
fumigation with tobacco may be used for 
both insects. Hard syringing directed 
to the under side of the leaves will, also, 
dislodge thrips. Fumigation should not 
be used when the plants are in full 
bloom, as the smoke is likely to injure 
the flowers. As the flowers fall, the 
seed vessels should be plucked off, and 
the plants continued in the same tem¬ 
perature while they make growth. They 
may be syringed freely during this. 
When settled warm weather begins, say 
in June, the Azaleas may be set outside 
to ripen their wood, remaining out until 
there is a hint of frost in the Fall. A 
slightly shaded place facing the north, 
where they will be free from drip, will 
suit them. It is a good plan to stand the 
pots on boards, so that there is less risk 
of worms entering them, and bank up to 
the rim of the pot with coal ashes or tan 
bark, so that the soil does not dry out so 
rapidly. The plants must be watered 
and syringed while in this position and, 
by the time they are brought in, their 
wood is well ripened, and upon this de¬ 
pends the extent of their bloom. 
2. Cyclamen seeds are sown in .1 anuary 
and February for flowering plants the 
next Winter, and in July and August for 
later stock. The seeds should be sown 
in well-drained pots, and covered with 
one-eighth inch of light soil, and are 
started in a temperature of 60 degrees. 
The young plants take about three shifts 
before they come to their blooming 
pots, usually a five or six-inch. The soil 
is rich loam and well-rotted manure, and 
a little sharp sand. Abundant drainage 
is needed, and lumps of charcoal or bits 
of old plaster are good for this. Lay a 
little green moss over the drainage, to 
avoid clogging. Syringe overhead every 
day. Never allow the plant to become 
wilting dry, and discourage aphis with 
tobacco. The corms may be carried over 
from year to year if desired, but florists 
don’t do this. 
3. We should hardly describe Primula 
obconica as an “everblooming” primrose, 
though it flowers profusely. Seed may 
be sown in February and March, potted 
into small pots when about one inch 
high, and in June, put outside in a 
shaded, airy frame, where the pots may 
be plunged in ashes to keep them from 
drying out. They should be kept as 
cool as possible, and will need about 
three shifts before the flowering pots. 
The general treatment is similar to that 
of the Cyclamen. When brought inside, 
they like alight house with a night tem¬ 
perature of 50 degrees. Pot them in light 
loam with one-third leaf mold and a 
little sand. 
4. Sow Cinerarias in July and August, 
in light loam, well drained. They like 
a cool temperature, so keep them in a 
nice airy place; a good many of the 
young seedlings succumb to the heat. 
They must be very carefully watered ; if 
this be overdone, they will die, but if 
too dry, they wilt or lose their leaves. 
Pot in rather coarse, lumpy soil with 
one-fourth well-rotted manure. While 
the Cineraria demands cool temperature, 
it will not endure any frost. Spread the 
plants out as they increase in size, so 
that the broad leaves are not crowded, 
and always keep tobacco stems lying on 
the bench between the pots, as these 
plants are subject to the attacks of aphis. 
5. Start Gloxinia tubers from the mid- 
MOTHERS.—Be sure to use “Mrs. Wins- 
-ow’s Soothing Syrup” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Best.— Adv. 
die of February to the end of March ; it 
is hardly worth while to bother with 
seed. Pot in three-inch or four-inch 
pots, the top of the tuber even with the 
surface of the soil. Use light loam, 
mixed with leaf mold and sharp sand. 
Keep in a night temperature of 55 to 60 
degrees. Water at planting, then give 
no more water until they have made 
some leaves. When width of leaves cov¬ 
ers the pot, move into five or six-inch 
size. Fill one-third of the pot with 
broken charcoal, with some green moss 
over it. Give slight shade at all times, 
never syringe, and wet the leaves as lit¬ 
tle as possible. Never let them flag for 
want of water when in bloom. After 
blooming, dry off like Callas, and store 
in a temperature of 55 degrees until time 
to start them again. 
6. Start Canna and Dahlia tubers any 
time during March. The French Gannas 
are started earlier than the foliage type, 
by the florists, who like to have them 
ready to show flower when sold. 
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SOLD! 
UNDER A 
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^VICTORIES._ 
FOUR MEDALS—3 Gold and 1 Silver, World’s Centennial 
C otton Exposition, New Orleans, 1884. 
HIGHEST AWARDS—Nebraska Agricultural Fair, 1887. 
DIPLOMA—Alabama Agr’l Society, Montgomery, 1888. 
AWARD—Chattahoochle Valley Exposition, Colum- 
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GOLD MEDALS and 6 DIPLOMAS—World’s Colum¬ 
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don , Canada. 1893. __ 
SIX GO LD MEDALS and D iplomas—Cal. Midwinter Fair ’94. 
SILVER MEDAL —Industrial Exposi t ion, Toronto, Canada, 1896. 
345,584 Home Comfort Ranges Sold to Jan. lst,’97 
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