1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
181 
a ting- the San Jos6 scale here in the East, and the 
sooner fruit growers realize this fact the better. The 
insect has already escaped from orchards, and is breed¬ 
ing on wild trees and shrubs in several localities. We 
can never legislate it out of existence, and public 
opinion will rarely support mandatory or non-recom¬ 
pensing laws against it. Doubtless, much good may 
be accomplished by enactments providing for experts. 
not politicians , whose business it may be to visit and 
carefully inspect nurseries, at least once a year, and 
investigate every suspected case in orchards. But 
such inspectors should not be vested with power to 
destroy trees without partial recompense to the own¬ 
ers. A State could very properly empower such an 
inspector to aid the owner in every way to eradicate 
thescale, even at the State’s expense in some cases ; but 
we do not know enough about the insect and the best 
methods of combating it to warrant, in my belief, such 
mandatory measures as some States are attempting to 
enforce. Many orchardists are now successfully con¬ 
trolling the pest, and it will finally result in the “ sur- 
vival-of-the-fittest ” orchardist. 
Early and Late Potatoes; Quinces. 
A. N. So. Pittsford, N. H. —1. Are the Carman No. 1 and No. 
3 potatoes subject to rot ? Which is the better of the two ? 2. 
What can you say about the Cambridge Russet and the Money 
Maker ? 3. Will you name what you consider the best e.arly, best 
intermediate, and best late varieties? -1. What is the best vari¬ 
ety of Blood turnip beet for general purposes? 5. Will the quince 
succeed in this latitude ? Are quinces profitable, and what is the 
best variety ? 
Ans. —1. In so far as we are informed, they are not 
subject to rot. The No. 1 is an intermediate, the No. 
3 rather late, so that they may not be compared. 2. 
Both are highly praised by the introducers, but they 
are on probation as yet. 3. We would name the Bovee 
and Algoma as the best early potatoes, judging by 
their behavior at the Rural Grounds, and Carman No. 
1 and Sir Walter Raleigh as, respectively, the best in¬ 
termediate and late kinds. 4. Electric and Columbia 
for early, Edmund Blood turnip for late. 5. The 
Orange is the best quince, so far as thoroughly tried. 
Whether profitable or not depends upon the demand 
of your nearby market. 
How to Cultivate Nursery Stock. 
E. T ../., lioonville, I rid .—How should nursery stock be cultivated 
during the first and second years’ growth of the apple, pear and 
peach ? 
Ans. —Prepare the ground thoroughly as for plant¬ 
ing beets or other garden truck. Mark out rows 3 % 
feet apart, dibble in the grafts with dibble or spade, 
leaving only the top bud out of the ground; after 
the grafts start so one can see to cultivate, go through 
with a cultivator which does not throw earth towards 
the grafts. Hoe and weed out carefully, after the 
second cultivating, then go through the rows with cul¬ 
tivator once every two weeks, or oftener if weeds 
grow, until the last of August. Weed the rows of 
grafts when necessary. It will be no more trouble to 
cultivate the grafts than corn, after the first culti¬ 
vating and weeding. The second and third.years, 
give the same frequent cultivation. In the Winter of 
the first year, trim off the lower branches, if any, 
leaving only one straight stalk for the body. For 
peaches, prepare the ground fine as above. Mark out 
rows 3% feet, and plant the pits six inches apart. The 
kernel of the pit should be picked out; do not plant 
the uncracked pit. Cover 1 % inch deep. Cultivate, 
weed and keep clean, and the last of August or the 
first week in September, bud the young trees. If E. 
T. J. is not posted in raising young trees, my advice 
to him is to let it alone. He can buy trees cheaper 
than they can be raised, and with the strong compe¬ 
tition there is now in the nursery business, one not 
being well posted in the business may become stranded 
before he is aware of it. edwin hoyt. 
Connecticut. 
Mulch for Currants. 
A. II., Beamsmlle, Ont .—Would a mulch do any harm to cur¬ 
rant bushes on land that is thoroughly underdrained, if left on 
for several years ? 
Ans. —We think that the plants would grow more 
thriftily if the mulch were dug under and renewed 
from time to time. 
Burning Lime ; Blasting Under Water. 
./. IT. if., White Hall, Va.—l. What is the best practical method of 
burning lime, or of constructing a kiln to be burned with wood 
for farm use ? 2. How can I remove rock in a spring house, two 
feet under water? It is solid, and would have to be blasted. 
Ans. —1. In the first place, it would not be wise for 
J. W. B. to pay freight on oyster shells, as he could 
not obtain them in quantity nearer than Richmond, 
83 miles from his station. If any one, however, has 
discovered a bed of limestone in the neighborhood of 
White Ilall. it would be a piece of news that I and 
many others, including the railroad company, would 
hail with delight. Wood is a small consideration in 
his neighborhood. Having the carbonate of calcium, 
either in the shape of shells or stone, all that is neces¬ 
sary is to heat the same to redness, when the carbonic 
acid is expelled and the oxide of calcium, lime, is left. 
This may be done in many ways. In his case. I would 
place a number of dry pine logs parallel with each 
other, 12 to 18 inches apart, with a large quantity of 
“ lightwood ” knots between. Crosswise I would place 
stout seasoned wood, and another layer crossing this. 
Now pile on the material to be converted into lime, 
leaving some space around this wood platform clear. 
Pine knots mixed with the material will help the 
cause. In case a large quantity is to be burned, it is 
better to have alternate layers of wood. When 
all is ready, fire at as many points as possible to insure 
even settling of the mass, and make sure that it is cold 
before undertaking to handle it. Better use too much 
wood than not enough. 
2. Inspection of the premises would be necessary to 
give the advice that might be best. A hole could be 
drilled through the water into the rock. Dynamite 
would have to be used and, of course, waterproof 
fuse. But the exploder must not become damp. This 
may be prevented by carefully tying the casing around 
the fuse and securely packing the joint with hard soap 
sufficiently soft to mash between the thumb and 
fingers. Under the water, tamping will scarcely be 
necessary. Unless the building can be temporarily 
moved to one side, damage will result if too large a 
charge be used. Placing a few logs across the spring, 
on these a good lot of stout brush, and some cord sticks 
on this, will prevent, to a great extent, the flying of 
the stones. I do not recall any very bold springs in 
the neighborhood of White Hall, and J. W. B. could, 
probably, get out the water by means of a siphon or 
hand pump easily constructed with a piece of pipe, a 
rod and a little leather. Within 13 miles of him, are 
hundreds of men, white and colored, who understand 
such work, and it would pay him to spend the 35 cents 
car fare and consult with some of these, and. if possi- 
DIPPING TREES FOR SAN JOSE SCALE. Fig. 82. 
ble, hire two or three to do the work. From the 
nature of the work, three would likely cost him less 
in the end than than two. J. c. senger. 
Hulling and Cleaning Sorghum Seed. 
F. 6'., Tuela , Saddleworth, South Australia .—Is there any simple 
yet effective way of cleaning sorghum seed from the heads, any 
simple machine that will separate the seeds without Injury ? 
Holding the head with one hand and raking off the seed with a 
currycomb with the other hand, is the best plan of which I know, 
but this brings off a good many bunches, and is tedious. 
Ans. —An ordinary clover-seed huller, properly ad¬ 
justed, and supplied with sieves and screens of suit¬ 
able mesh, will do perfect work in hulling and clean¬ 
ing sorghum seed, and leave it in the best possible 
condition for sowing. e. G. Packard. 
Pasture for a Kentucky Orchard. 
W. IT. P., Lexington, Kg .—I have a 40-acre apple orchard, soil a 
yellow clay, containing little or no humus, and inclined to bake 
very hard. It has been cropped by renters for many years, and 
was seeded to Timothy two years ago, but no stand was secured. 
It has grown up to weeds and wild grass since, and has been 
used as pasture. The trees are about 15 years old, and bore 
moderate crops of fruit in 1896 and 1897. Fruit last year was 
numerous but small, and a very heavy crop in 1895. So many 
trees have been destroyed that it would seem poor policy to keep 
the land exclusively for apples, and the soil needs the addition of 
fertilizer and vegetable matter, but I can not afford to purchase 
fertilizers, etc., and thought to plant to cow peas and Soja beans, 
sown in drills 3 to 3^ feet apart, and cultivated thoroughly as 
late as possible. At the last working, I had planned to sow rye on 
the larger area, Crimson clover and rape on smaller areas, and 
follow again with cow peas and Soja beans. Part of the cow peas 
and Soja beans are to be cut for hay, and the rest pastured with 
hogs, and the winter crops to be pastured with hogs and horses, 
and then turned under in May preparatory to planting the peas 
and beans again. Will this plan be successful in this latitude 
and on such soil ? 
Ans. —It is best to devote any piece of land that is 
in orchard to the fruit crop alone, except while it is 
young, and before the trees need the entire space. In 
this case, there are so many spaces where trees are 
missing that it might be well to reset with new trees 
sufficient to fill up to the normal number. The idea 
of making a combined hog pasture and orchard of the 
land is good, but I would object to horses among the 
trees, because they will browse them. The cow peas 
and Soja beans would be very good in the orchard, 
and the plan to cultivate them is especially commend¬ 
able. The cultivation of the orchard should be begun 
as early in the Spring as the land can be worked, and 
kept up until dune, when the peas or beans may be 
planted in rows and then cultivated until they are too 
large. When they are ripe, the hogs may be turned 
in to feed on them, and the vines left on the ground 
until Spring. Or, Crimson clover may be sown about 
the last of July, and left to grow until Spring. In 
either case, cultivation should begin early. These 
crops will add nitrogen and humus to the soil, and 
greatly help the trees. Rye will add nothing to the 
soil, and if left on late in the Spring, will be a positive 
injury. The idea of getting horse pasturage out of 
the orchard is unwise, but hogs are a benefit if fed 
grain. H. R. V. n. 
A Bit of Fence Law. 
<;. W. P.. Hamburg, N. Y. —1. A and B own adjoining farms. 
A’s is all under cultivation. One end of B’s is used for pasture, 
The only line fence maintained is that next the pasture. Must 
A build and repair one-lialf this fence, or must B do it all? 2. 
Where the land on both sides of a line fence is used for pasture, 
and one party neglects his half of the fence, is he not liable for 
any damage that may come from his or his neighbor’s cattle 
getting over his half of the fence ? 
Ans. —1. A and B are each required to make and 
maintain a just and equitable portion of the division 
fence between such lands, except when they otherwise 
agree. If disputes arise between the owners of adjoin¬ 
ing lands, concerning the liability of either party to 
make or maintain any division fence, or the proportion 
or particular part of the fence to be made or main¬ 
tained by either of them, such disputes shall be settled 
by fence viewers chosen by the parties. 2. If any person 
who is liable to contribute to the erection or repair of 
a division fence, shall neglect or refuse to make and 
maintain his proportion of such fence, or shall permit 
the same to be out of repair, he shall be liable to pay 
the party injured all such damages as shall accrue 
thereby, to be ascertained and appraised by any two 
fence viewers, and to be recovered with costs. Art. 
V., chap. 20, sections 100-103 and 105 Gen. Laws, New 
York. 
Silo Building and Filling. 
E. S. K., Strykersville, iV. Y. —I have a barn 26 x 36 feet, and 14 
feet high. I intend to put 12-foot posts on top of the plate, and in 
one half of the hay mow, build a silo 12 x 12 x 30 feet high. 1. Will 
2 x 8 inches be strong enough for girths? 2. How far apart? 3. 
Will 2x4 hemlock make a good tub silo? 4. Will it be too large 
for feeding eight or ten cows through the Summer? I shall have 
to keep them in the barn the year ’round. 
Ans. —1. We would recommend that 2 x 10-inch stuff 
be used for girths, that they be used double, and be 
spiked together at the corners with heavy wire nails. 
2. The first girths should be at the bottom of the silo, 
the next one three feet higher, the next four feet 
above, and the distance may be increased by one-half 
foot each time until the girths are six feet apart at 
the top of the silo. 3. Two by four hemlock, if first-class 
stuff, will make a good tub silo. It is not quite so good as 
White pine or Georgia pine, but it will last for years; 
2x6 stuff would do as well. 4. If the silo is filled slowly, 
or is allowed to settle so that there will be but little 
loss from settling, a silo of the size mentioned will 
be large enough for 10 cows. If you propose keeping 
cows in the barn through the Summer, I recommend 
that you grow some soiling or forage crop to cut and 
feed green during Summer. The cows will relish 
it better than they will ensilage after warm weather 
comes. I.. A. c 
Lumber for a Tub Silo. 
I. N. C., Litchfield, N. II. -In Thk It. N.-Y. of December 25, you 
say that a tub silo can be built complete for about what the 
matched sheathing would cost. I intend to build a silo the com¬ 
ing season, and want all the information I can get. I intend to 
get the lumber sawed this Winter. I have either hard pine or 
White pine; which would be better? How thick should it be 
sawed? I purpose to let it season until next August; will that 
be all right ? I can have the silo 11*4 feet in diiimeter and 24 feet 
high. Should the edges of the plank be beveled; if so, how 
much ? What should I use for hoops, and how should they be 
made ? How should the floor be constructed ? How much lumber 
will I need? Will such a silo be durable? Won’t it shrink and 
collapse during the Summer? How many hoops should it have ? 
Do you recommend cutting ensilage, or putting it in whole ? 
Ans. —We recommend the White pine for use in con¬ 
structing the tub silo. Staves should be two inches 
thick and six inches wide. If the lumber is allowed 
to season from now until next August, it should be in 
good condition for use in the silo. A silo 11% feet in 
diameter will have a circumference of 36.1 feet. When 
you have the staves cut at the mill, tell the sawyer 
that you want the edges of the staves beveled so that 
they will fit when set up in a circle of 36.1 feet. Use 
for hoops, five-eighths-inch round steel. We wish 
that some manufacturer who can supply these round 
steel hoops and the lugs for tightening and loosening, 
would advertise the fact in The R. N.-Y. For details 
as to construction, see the article in connection with the 
drawing of the tub silo which appeared two weeks 
ago. You will need about 75 staves, six inches in 
width, two inches thick and 24 feet high. If you can¬ 
not easily procure material the required length, have 
the staves tongued and grooved on the end. Break 
joints when setting up, use hot coal tar as a filler, and 
an air-tight joint will be secured. The tub silo should 
be the most durable of any constructed. The fact 
that it dries out when empty, is one of its good fea¬ 
tures. It will not collapse if staples are used over the 
hoops. Cut the corn in lengths of from one-half inch 
to one inch, and never put corn in the silo whole. L. A. c. 
