220 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
March 26 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
HOW TO CROSS STRAWBERRIES. 
I want to cross some varieties of strawberries, but do not know 
just how to apply the pollen most successfully. What is the best 
method ? I have tried to make some crosses by rubbing the flower 
containing the anthers on the pistillate flowers, and failed. For 
some reason, I cannot see the pollen grains on strawberry flow¬ 
ers, although I use a small magnifying glass, and examine them 
at the right time. Several seasons, I have sown the seed of straw¬ 
berries as soon as ripe, but none ever came up till the following 
Spring. Must they be frozen before they will germinate ? If not, 
why will they not grow the same season that they are sown, be¬ 
ing moist and shaded all the time ? s. o. 
Blaine, Washington. 
It is the easiest thing 1 to cross strawberries. The 
reason why S. G. has not seen the pollen is because 
he did not look for it at the right time. It is only 
necessary to remove the perfect flowers when the 
pollen is ripe, and rub them upon the pistils of the 
flower with which it is desired to make a cross. If 
both varieties bear perfect flowers, then it is neces¬ 
sary to remove the anthers of one or the other before 
the pollen is shed. To insure a certain parentage, it 
is necessary to cover the mother plant until berries 
have set upon the crossed flowers. The seeds of straw¬ 
berries, if sown soon after the berries are ripe, usually 
germinate in a week or so. S. G. has, probably, planted 
them too deep. Freezing is not only unnecessary but 
injurious. 
A Veteran Gives His Method. 
Select a perfect-flowering variety for a pollenizer, 
and such pistillate variety or varieties as possess the 
qualities which, combined, may produce seedling 
varieties superior to the parent stock. Plants for this 
purpose are taken up, either in the Fall or early 
Spring, and with a ball of earth, potted in six-inch 
pots for this experiment. The plants are placed in 
the greenhouse the last of March or the first of April, 
where, with proper attention, they make favorable 
gi-owth, and come into bloom before plants in the 
field. Or plants may be set in cold frames in late 
Summer, or Fall, or early Spring, care being taken to 
cover the frame with fine gauze when the plants are 
in bloom, to prevent other than the desired cross fer¬ 
tilization. When the plants come into bloom, with a 
cameTs-hair brush, collect the pollen from the anthers 
when in perfection (dry and powdery), and apply to 
such blossoms of the pistillate sorts as are in proper 
condition, i. e., when the ends of the stigma are 
moist. To assist further in securing pollenization, 
either for fruit for consumption, or for the seed, swish 
an evergreen bush back and forth over and just touch¬ 
ing the plants lightly, doing this every day while in 
bloom. The most favorable time is at midday, beneath 
a clear sky, and when the plants and atmosphere of 
the house are free from excess of moisture. Avoid 
drenching the foliage with water when the plants are 
in bloom, if satisfactory pollenization is desired. 
Plants from which seed is to be gathered, should 
be allowed to bear but a limited number of berries, if 
fully developed seed is desired. a. b. Howard. 
Massachusetts. 
The Process Under Glass. 
Regarding the cross-breeding of strawberries, the 
operation is one not requiring a large degree"of skill, 
but great care. The process, as carried on under 
glass, consists in removing the plant selected as the 
seed parent, from all chance of contact with other 
plants, usually by placing it in a separate house, or 
by inclosing in a frame covered with fine gauze net¬ 
ting or other material that will exclude all insects, 
yet allow the light to reach the plant. The plant 
selected to furnish the pollen should, also, be kept by 
itself, so that all danger of foreign pollen may be 
avoided. These plants should be grown in such a man¬ 
ner that the blooming material of both will be equal, 
and when in full bloom, they should be kept in a dry 
atmosphere in order to cause the pollen to flow readily. 
The pollen may then be easily shaken from the anthers 
into a spoon or a shallow ladle, and with a camel’s- 
hair brush or any soft object to which the pollen will 
adhere, it can be taken from the receptacle and ap¬ 
plied to the flowers of the fruiting plant, being sure 
to reach all parts in order to have a perfect fruit. 
The method to pursue when the work is to be carried 
on in the field, would be to cover the flower stems of 
both plants with small paper bags before the blossoms 
open, the bags to be kept on until the time the blos¬ 
soms are ready to receive the pollen, which time is 
just after they are fully expanded. If at this time, it 
is found impossible to obtain any pollen, the stamin- 
ate blossoms should be picked, placed in a clean saucer 
or on paper and carried to a dry room. In a few hours, 
or when they begin to wilt, it will be found that the 
pollen can be shaken off in quantities. This can be 
taken to the field, the bag removed from the blossoms 
to be treated, and the pollen applied as in the case of 
the house-grown plants, the bag then being replaced, 
to be removed when the fruit is set. If the variety 
selected as the fruiting plant is a perfect-flowering 
one, it will be necessary to emasculate each blossom at 
the time of opening. This operation consists in re¬ 
moving all the stamens. This should be done at the 
earliest possible moment. e. c. hunn. 
Cornell Experiment Station. 
A BASKET OF FRUIT NOTES. 
QUESTIONS, SUGGESTIONS, HINTS. 
ANSWERS BY II. E. VAN DEM AN. 
American Plums for Market.— Would it pay to plant extensively, 
of plums of the Americana type ? What show would these have in 
the market in competition with the Japan and European kinds ? 
What half dozen varieties of the Miner and Wild Goose class 
are the best for commercial purposes. d. l. p. 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 
The Americana type of plum is very good for market, 
and one of the best and most extensive plum growers 
of the East much prefers the varieties of this type, 
and those of the Prunus hortulana, to the Japans. 
Their bright red color is very attractive, and for eat¬ 
ing fresh, they are very sweet and delicately flavored ; 
but when cooked, they become intensely sour. Of the 
different types of native American plums, the follow¬ 
ing are among the best of each : Americana type—Stod¬ 
dard, Ocheeda and American Eagle; of Hortulana 
type—Whitaker and Smiley; of the Miner type— 
Prairie Flower. 
When to Graft Plums. —What time in the season is best to 
graft plums upon apricot ? I have tried two years with but little 
success ; about one in four or five would live. I think that, per¬ 
haps, I do not graft early enough. Also what time should I graft 
plums upon plums, and what time should I cut the scions for 
either ? c . E . M< 
Greenfield, Mass. 
Plums should be grafted very early to obtain best 
results, whatever the stock they are set upon. Care 
should be used not to tear the bark, if the cleft style 
be used, but incline the blade that does the splitting 
to the side of the stump that is to receive the scion. 
This will cut a smoother place to set the scion than 
would be made by not doing so, and the fit will be 
better. Plum scions should be cut very early. Fall 
is really the best time to cut scions of all kinds ; for 
there is no possibility of damage from cold weather, 
or of the buds starting from the warmth of approach¬ 
ing Spring. 
An Apple Orchard in Virginia.— What is the best manner in 
which to manage the following piece of land : It contains about 
45 acres, 20 of which are sandy river bottom, with clay subsoil 
under part of it. It was originally very good land, but has been 
impoverished by continuous cropping without fertilizer. The rest 
is a hillside with northern exposure, about 10 acres of which are 
cleared. There is a limestone ledge running through it about 
one-third of the way up the hill. On top of this ledge, there is a 
bench of about five or six acres, with a very heavy growth of 
beech, poplar, oak and hickory upon it. About one-third of the 
way from the top, there is a vein of iron ore (Hematite, or 
Fossil), and this stains the land for some distance below it. How 
shall I manage this land to make the most out of it ? I want to 
plant the hillside of 25 acres with fruit trees, most of it with 
apples for market, a part with peaches, say three or four acres, 
some with pears, and some with plums ? What sorts do you sug¬ 
gest ? Would you suggest that the apple trees be planted about 
30 x 40 feet of Winter sorts, and fill in the 40-foot rows with Sum¬ 
mer or short-lived sorts ? What are the best varieties of Japan 
plums, peaches and pears for this land ? I intend to plant 
the bottom land to corn this year, using a good fertilizer, and 
sow to Crimson clover in July. w. s. M. 
It is quite probable that the hillside would be very 
good for apples, but would be better if it had an 
easterly or southerly slope. Newtown (called Albe¬ 
marle in Virginia) is one of the most profitable kinds 
for the mountain regions of Virginia, but it does 
not come into bearing early. York Imperial is another 
of about equal value. It would be a very good plan 
to plant trees of these varieties about 40 feet apart 
both ways and fill in between with Winesap, Jona¬ 
than, and Stayman. These kinds will bear early, and 
may be cut out when they crowd. I would not select 
summer varieties, as there is little demand for them 
in the market. If the orchard be wisely planned, and 
then planted and cared for properly, the precocious 
bearers or fillers will pay the whole cost many times 
over before they will need to be removed. If any 
early-ripening kinds be used as fillers, Yellow Trans¬ 
parent and Oldenburg are about the best. There 
can be extra rows of fillers both ways if they are 
promptly cut out when any crowding begins ; and 
40 feet are none too far apart for big bearing apple 
trees. 
Pears will, also, do very well in that locality and 
soil. The red land is especially suitable for this 
fruit. The trees may be planted closer than they are 
intended to stand finally, as in the case of the apples. 
Bartlett is, perhaps, the best pear for market, all 
things considered. Dwarf trees may be planted as 
fillers, if desired, as they will come into bearing very 
early. AngoulOme is the most popular kind on dwarf 
stock. Standard pear trees are rarely set more than 
20 or 25 feet apart, and dwarfs about half those dis¬ 
tances. Bose, Sheldon and Lawrence are, also, good 
varieties either as dwarfs or standards. Peaches 
ought to flourish there, also, but do not plant them 
among the apple trees as fillers, as some do, to the 
injury of the latter. They grow faster, and rob the 
apple trees. About 16 or 18 feet apart are right for 
peach trees in the climate and soil of Virginia. As to 
varieties, there are many good ones. Triumph is 
the earliest good one, unless it be Sneed and Golds¬ 
boro, which are but little tested as yet. Mountain 
Rose, Elberta, Champion, Chair and Heath Cling are 
all good, reliable market varieties. The Japan plums 
are fast becoming very popular, although they have 
some faults ; among them, early blooming and a pro¬ 
clivity to rot. Burbank is one of the best of them. 
Abundance, Red June and Wickson are, also, excel¬ 
lent. The native American plums are making a good 
record in the orchard and market; some think them 
more profitable than the Japans. Gaylord, Whita¬ 
ker, Stoddard, Smiley, Milton and Newton are con¬ 
sidered among the best of this class. None of the 
European kinds is suitable to the South, except the 
Damsons ; of these. Farleigh and French are the best. 
The seeding of the bottom land to Crimson clover is 
very commendable if it be plowed under in due time. 
Grape Pollen and Arkansas Fruit Notes.— 1 . How can pollen 
be best applied to the pistils of the grape ? 2. Are Mammoth 
Black Twig, Springdale, and Stone County Favorite good apples, 
an 1 do they keep well ? 3. I am informed that chestnut trees will 
not bear fruit in the northern portion of Arkansas; is it true ? 
Lutherville, Ark. L . w. 
1 . Grape pollen can best be applied to the pistils 
artificially by using a very small camel’s-hair brush, 
or the point of a very small knife or flattened pin. 
The whole operation of artificially pollinating the 
flowers of any fruit or other plants is very simple in 
principle, but must be most carefully done. The 
flowers to be worked upon should be selected before 
they are ready to set their pollen, be emasculated, by 
cutting away their stamens, and covered with small 
paper bags, to prevent any contamination by other 
pollen. When the pistils are just in the proper stage, 
the pollen should be applied and the bags at once re¬ 
placed. No wind should be stirring at the time the 
work is done, or other pollen may float in the air to 
the stigma. A pair of very small scissors for cutting 
off stamens, etc., a watch glass to catch the pollen 
upon, a magnifying glass and a brush and flattened 
pin or sharpened wire in a wooden handle make a 
good hybridizing outfit of tools. 2. Mammoth Black- 
Twig and Springdale are valuable apples for northern 
Arkansas, but of the Stone County Favorite, I do not 
know. The first two keep about the same as Wine- 
sap. 3. Chestnuts will bear in northern Arkansas if 
set in good upland soil, and especially that of a sandy 
nature. The Chinquapin, which is a species of chest¬ 
nut, grows wild in some places there, and sometimes 
grows to enormous size for that species, making trees 
40 feet high and 20 inches in diameter. 
Brief Talk About Plums. 
0. C'., New Madison, 0.—\. Can Burbank, Wickson, Red June, 
Hale, and other varieties of Japan plums be successfully budded 
in two or four-year-planted Lombard plum trees? Would it 
make any difference as to the size of the tree ? 
If. L. P., Clyde, O.— 2. What are the merits of Shipper’s Pride 
plum, and what age is required before fruiting? 
Ans.—1 . The Burbank, Wickson, Red June, Hale, 
and other Japan varieties of plums will work nicely 
on Lombards, as suggested. We have done a good deal 
of this kind of work with entire success. Of course, 
very old trees are difficult to bud into, but assuming 
that these trees are from two to four years planted, 
and if intending to bud them over next Summer, I 
would cut the tops well in at this time, taking off 
from one-third to one-half of the wood. This will 
throw the sap back so as to make them work up much 
more successfully next Summer than they would 
otherwise. 2. The Shipper’s Pride has failed to meet 
my expectations. It is rather late in coming into 
bearing, and in the color of its fruit, not attractive, 
and does not seem to take well upon the market, as 
many have been led to suppose. For myself, I would 
much prefer to plant the Monarch. s. d. WILLARD. 
Setting Runner or Potted Strawberry Plants. 
S., Charleston, Mo .—I intend to set a variety of strawberry 
plants from which to save plants to set as soon as they will do. 
How should I manage the runners? A fruit man from Illinois 
tells me that he has set plants the first of April, set plants from 
them the middle of July of the same year, arid got a crop of 
berries the next May. Would the plants be ready for setting 
sooner by using pots ? 
Ans. —Runner plants from spring-set strawberries 
can be transplanted about the middle of July. Our 
own practice is to pin the runners down at a suitable 
distance from the plant, using a crotched stick, a hair¬ 
pin or a lump of earth. When the plant is well 
