Vol. LVII. No. 2517. 
NEW YORK, APRIL 23, 1898. 
81 PER YEAR. 
them, and are-better if six months old. Young trees 
can be budded whenever there is a shoot not over 
inch in diameter, near the top. Another very impor¬ 
tant point is to bud at a point where the sap can all be 
thrown into the hud. It is of no use to bud on outer 
limbs. You must bud at a point near the trunk, so 
all the sap can be thrown into the bud, and a new 
trunk be formed. 
It is well for the first year to leave some lower limbs 
to take up the extra sap, otherwise the bud will grow 
so rapidly as to be brittle and snap off. The bud 
should be tied and supported in some way for the first 
few months, or the winds will blow it out. I give this 
support by leaving a portion of the stock (about eight 
inches) above the bud, and tying the bud to this. 
Remember, then, that success depends upon maturity 
in the bud, and also upon a goodly flow of sap in the 
stock. There comes a time when the bud has reached 
a degree of maturity, and the sap is still flowing in 
ground. He uses the cleft grafting method, and his 
success depends entirely upon heavy waxing. He uses 
great balls of wax around each graft. He uses only 
the terminal buds in grafting, and inserts them in the 
Spring after the flow of sap has begun. He is the only 
one I ever heard of who made a success of grafting 
above ground. 
What has been said of the pecan above will apply 
also to the hickory. It is a little more difficult to get 
good buds on the hickory. In order to do so, you must 
cut back a large limb on the tree from which you wish 
the buds, then long shoots will put forth, and on these 
long shoots will be found numerous fine buds. I 
wished only one hickory tree. I changed a pecan 
stock into a hickory tree at the very first trial. After 
the buds have taken, you can throw the sap into them 
at once, by cutting off the top of the stock about six 
inehes above the bud, and pinching out all other buds. 
Or you can leave the bud dormant till the next Spring, 
and then throw the sap into 
it. I follow both of these 
methods. SAM. H. JAMES. 
As a rule, the conditions 
for the successful raising 
of one variety of squash 
are conditions which will 
raise successfully any vari¬ 
ety, the only difference 
being that some require 
more liberal feeding than 
do others. On the seacoast, 
the squash crop is a lead¬ 
ing one, some of our farm¬ 
ers growing from 50 to 100 
tons annually. With plenty 
of rich manure and protec¬ 
tion from the little striped 
bug, it is one of the surest 
crops we plant. Last sea¬ 
son, owing to both cold and 
drought, was a hard one on 
all vines; yet one of my 
neighbors housed 75 tons of 
good squashes. The more 
experience a man has in 
squash raising generally, 
the more liberally he ma¬ 
nures. The man that be¬ 
gins with five cords per acre 
will often increase to from 
12 to 20 cords. It is, also, a 
matter of dollars and cents. 
If five cords will give him 
five tons per acre, and 12 cords nine tons, as all other 
outlay is equal, the difference in the cost of the 
product is the difference in the cost of the manure 
and its handling. With us, $6 per cord will amply 
cover the original cost, teaming and distributing of 
each cord of manure. Then the difference between the 
cost of five cords and twelve is $42, and the difference 
between the average crops with each is four tons, which, 
at $18, about the average price of Winter squashes, is 
$72, making a difference in the farmer’s favor of $30 
on an investment of $42—or about 70 per cent on an 
eight-months investment—which would be over 87 per 
cent per annum. In addition, the farmer has the chances 
decidedly in his favor, for an advance in prices later in 
the season, and with shrinkage from rotting deducted, 
will certainly add enough to make in all considerably 
over 100 per cent on the original investment. 
Another fact not to be lost sight of is that a large 
proportion of all manure is carried over to the benefit 
of succeeding crops. The heavy manuring (I would 
SUCCESSFUL GRAFTING OF HICKORY AND PECAN. Fig. 133. 
the stock, and then is the time to get in the work. 
That time here in Louisiana is August and the early 
half of September ; it will vary in each locality, and 
each must learn for himself. It is utterly useless to 
try to bud before the bud has reached a stage of 
maturity, and at the same time, you must have a good 
flow of sap both in scion and in stock. Where the 
shoots have made a very vigorous growth, the sap 
flows much later than in those where the growth is 
slow. I have given the general principles underlying 
this matter, but each must study the matter for him¬ 
self, and success depends entirely upon the exactness 
with which he does his work. 
Grafting the pecan is even more difficult than bud¬ 
ding. Mr. Van Deman’s plan of grafting under ground, 
and piling soil up around the graft will work, but it 
takes the greatest care to prevent the graft being 
knocked out in working the trees, and is not nearly so 
handy as budding. Emile Bourgeois, of Louisiana, 
has made a great success in grafting the pecan above 
PROPAGATION OF THE PECAN AND HICKORY. 
HOW THE BUDDING 18 DONE. 
Mr. James Explains His Method. 
As is generally known to horticulturists, the pecan 
and hickory are the most difficult of all trees to propa¬ 
gate ; yet, after two years of constant practice, I am 
now able to change any tree I wish with certainty and 
ease. Benj. Buckman, of Illinois, has written me 
that he thinks it is our climate here in the South that 
enables us to propagate these trees successfully, since 
he has failed at the North, after years of experience 
in horticulture. I do not think it is our climate, but 
a full understanding of the nature of this family, that 
has caused five men in the South to propagate the 
pecan and hickory with great success, while the rest 
of the world find much difficulty in doing so. I spent 
six months in changing my first tree, while an expert 
in this business informed me that he had spent six 
years before he was success¬ 
ful. We can both change 
20 trees a day now, and at¬ 
tend to our regular work 
besides. 
Any tree can be changed 
from the age of two years 
up to 25 years ; the younger 
the tree, the easier it is 
changed. A pecan can be 
changed into a hickory or 
a hickory into a pecan. 
Where the tree is large, it 
must be topped just above 
the lower branches in order 
to get young, vigorous 
shoots to bud on. The an¬ 
nular method is used in 
budding, that is the bark 
is taken off clear around 
the scion that has the bud, 
and inserted on the stock 
just as it stood on the scion. 
It does not matter if it does 
not reach entirely around 
the stock, as will always 
be the case where the stock 
is larger than the scion ; 
but enough of the stock’s 
own bark should be left in 
this case, to complete the 
circuit. This will be better 
understood from Fig. 133, 
where an illustration of a 
dormant bud is given, in¬ 
serted just as it should be. 
There are three essentials 
to the successful propaga¬ 
tion of the pecan and hickory, and the reader who 
hopes to practice it successfully must learn them well 
on the start. If either be lacking, the budding will 
be a failure. First, the bud must have reached a stage 
of maturity, yet the sap must be flowing sufficiently 
to cause it to slip. Second, there must be a sufficient 
flow of sap in the stock to cause the bark to slip easily. 
Third, the bud must be tied very tightly with cotton 
cloth, so as to keep out rain and air, and not be dis¬ 
turbed under four weeks. 1 have waxed the cloth 
after tying, but more depends on the tightness with 
which it is tied than upon the wax. After the bud is 
taken off the scion, with the bark all the way around 
(a length of one inch is best), it should be placed over 
the stock, and a piece of bark of the stock of exactly 
the same size should be taken out, and the bud with 
its bark inserted in this place. 
First, then, all large trees should be topped in order 
to get new shoots on which to bud. These shoots 
must be at least three months old before you can bud 
HUBBARD SQUASH 
HOW TO GROW IT. 
