320 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
April 30 
thrash just when one pleases. When the traveling 
thrasher comes, no matter when it is, everything must 
be dropped until it goes, and if anything breaks while 
at work, there are 10 or 20 men idle, while with one's 
own outfit, a convenient time can be selected, and the 
work done with a few men. Last year, 1 thrashed 600 
bushels of wheat in a little over five days, with only 
four men. taking time to pack away the straw in the 
barn and barrack. We get down a pile of wheat, then 
start to thrash, with two men at the feeding end of 
the thrasher and two men to run the straw out in the 
yard. Then when we have enough thrashed, we all 
get to work and pack away the straw, or put it on the 
stack, as the case may be. An engine's handiness for 
cutting ensilage or fodder, or grinding corn or sawing 
wood, has to be experienced to be realized. As for 
the comparative merits of steam with other power, I 
cannot say, as 1 have tried only the steam ; but as for 
steam on the farm, I can say that I am its friend 
every time. 
Helps by tiik Way.— One of the things that has struck 
me most unfavorably in my farming is that, while the 
expense goes on incessantly, the income is only in 
chunks, and sometimes not very big ones at that; so 
this year, I have planned to have a few extras to try 
to offset the daily expense. To this end, I have now 
up three-quarters of an acre of early peas (planted 
March 8), the same amount of early potatoes, and two 
ounces of celery and one ounce of tomato seed. The 
peas will be out of the way before harvest, and the 
tomatoes will come after. Some day in harvest after 
a rain, instead of resting, we will set out the celery, 
and the potatoes we will get up early in the mornings 
to dig. Sounds all right, doesn't it? I tried two 
acres of sugar corn a few years ago for the same pur¬ 
pose, and when the driver came back from town after 
taking in the first load, I asked him what the com¬ 
mission man said. “ He tole me to tell you not to sen’ 
in any mo’, he couldn’t sell dat.” I subsequently re¬ 
ceived account of sales at four cents a dozen. But 
hope springs eternal in the farmer's breast, and I am 
trying again with more baskets in which to place my 
eggs, and no sugar corn, for it is so easy to grow that 
almost every one around here has some, and there is 
not much chance of a good price. I am, however, 
keeping an accurate account of the cost and time of 
my ventures, and at the end of the season hope to re¬ 
port. _ p. B. c. 
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SETTING ASPARAGUS PLANTS; HOW OLD? 
in a book on asparagus culture, published in London, an English 
cultivator says: “ It is of essential importance that the roots 
should be as little exposed as possible during planting, to a dry¬ 
ing atmosphere. * * * Carefully lift the plants and cover them 
over in the basket with a little sand ; proceed to set them,” etc. 
A French cultivator says: ‘‘Some authors recommend that the 
stools should be planted as soon as they are pulled up, but this 
is an error, for asparagus takes root much more readily when it 
is faded. Like all succulent plants, it is apt to rot if it is planted 
when quite fresh. It has also been observed that plants sent 
from a distance strike root much more easily than those taken 
from a plantation close by, and produce much better heads. We 
have ourselves planted on the 16th of April, stools which were 
taken out of the ground on the 25th of the previous February, 
and the plants which they produced were in all respects most 
satisfactory.” The Englishman prefers two-year-old plants; the 
Frenchman regards one-year old plants as much better. Which 
method does The R. N.-Y. favor for this country ? h. h. b. 
Jewett City, Conn. 
Avoid Too Much Exposure. 
For many years, I have planted more or less aspar¬ 
agus yearly. In 1895, I planted two good-sized beds; 
the plants for which were purchased. One patch was 
planted upon immediate receipt of the roots, which 
were fresh, plump, and not in the least dried out. The 
other patch was left two days unplanted, and the roots 
were just thrown in a heap in the cellar. When we 
were ready to plant them at the end of two days, the 
roots were dried and shriveled somewhat, but not ex¬ 
cessively so ; they were then planted and cared for 
precisely the same as the first batch, in exactly the 
same soil and location, having only a dirt path be¬ 
tween them. By June 1, 98 per cent of the first planted 
bed were growing and in good condition, while the 
other bed, planted under the above conditions, did not 
grow sufficient for one to discern where the rows 
should be. I can recall many instances similar to the 
above, and I have found at all times, that only fresh, 
plump roots give satisfactory results, and 1 would not 
now, under any circumstances, set out roots that wire 
in any way dried out or partially shriveled. In prac¬ 
tice, I have found that it pays to place such roots in a 
sort of a mud puddle for 24 hours, to freshen them up 
before they are set in the ground ; they root better, 
have more vigor, and will not fail to grow right away, 
providing other conditions, as to soil, mode of plant¬ 
ing. etc., are equally favorable. We consider it an 
unnatural practice to dry roots similar to the aspar¬ 
agus, and it is all nonsense to expect such to succeed 
as well as those kept in prime condition. They re¬ 
ceive ample check and root amputation, by the mere 
fact of their being dug and replanted elsewhere, 
without subjecting them to the drying process in the 
bargain. 
I have always found best results from well-grown, 
one-year-old roots, for ordinary planting-out purposes. 
I prefer those grown nearby to those from a distance. 
In transplanting, we allow them to be exposed to the 
sun as little as possible. We are to-day planting 500 
roots just received ; it is a good day for the purpose, 
being warm and cloudy. In two years from now, I 
expect to show a fine patch of asparagus. 
Connecticut. w. m. edwards. 
Prefers One-Year-Old Roots. 
I prefer the one-year-old, on the ground that the 
root, when not long, is more easily placed in the center 
of the trench, and this is of great importance. The 
regular cultivator of asparagus knows the direction 
that the plants will take root in the course of their 
existence. The plants will vary 6 to 12 inches 8 to 10 
years after planting. In planting, they should all 
follow the same direction ; then even after 8 or 10years, 
the center of the plants will always be at the same dis¬ 
tance, rendering work easier in examining the clumps. 
1 should prefer lines running north and south, the 
weaker side to the north, and certainly think a young 
subject preferable. 
As for planting the roots immediately after digging, 
that is a question of judgment and soil. If long 
% 
FASTENING HOOPS ON A SILO. Fio. 142. 
planted in dry, light soil, plant immediately, but the 
reverse if the soil is damp and clayey, as in this case 
the roots are tender and mold easily. Asparagus roots 
may remain several months in a dry condition, with¬ 
out covering, and take root again well ; but exposure 
to strong wind should be avoided. fd. boulon. 
Long Island. 
A FEW SILO QUESTIONS. 
ANSWERS BY L. A. CLINTON. 
Foundation for the Siio. 
J. II. P., Montieello (No State ).—Is no foundation needed but 
the Hat cement bottom of the silo ? Where can the 22-foot hard 
pine be procured at u reasonable price ? It is not kept at this 
place. Would good, sound, dry spruce lumber make a' good silo ? 
No other foundation is needed except the cement 
one constructed as described on page 152. If hard 
pine cannot be procured, then use good hemlock or 
White pine. If you cannot purchase staves the full 
length required, then splice the staves as described in 
answer to G. E. C. If good spruce lumber free from 
knotholes can be obtained, it will answer the purpose 
well. At Fig. 142 is shown a view of a tub silo as 
looked down upon. The staves are shown as they will 
appear if set up without beveling. The joint at the 
inner edge is perfectly tight. Three methods are 
shown by which the hoops may be coupled. 1 shows 
an ideal way of making the coupling. The expense of 
having this made would be so great as to make it 
impracticable in many cases. 2 shows the ends of the 
hoops drawn through a block of 4 x 4 oak, as described 
on page 152. Many silos are fastened in this way, 
and it is effective and cheap. The cheapest mode of 
coupling the hoops we have yet found is the one 
shown in 3. This consists of an eye turned at the 
end of the hoop and welded down. A three-quarter- 
inch bolt passes through these eyes, and by loosening 
or tightening the nut, the hoop may be given the proper 
tension. These hoops, of five-eighths-inch steel, with 
eyes turned and welded, can be purchased for 2% 
cents per linear foot. I quote this price so that those 
wishing to purchase will have some idea of what the 
hoops will cost. We are now having a test made to 
see what strain these eyes will stand. The result of 
this test will be reported in these columns as soon as 
completed. 
Wood and Bolts for the Silo. 
O. E. C., Chappaqua, N. Y .—Where can I buy the material for 
building a silo as described ? How long should the bolts be for 
connecting the hoops where the hoop is made in two pieces as 
described. 
If you cannot procure the Georgia pine or good White 
pine, purchase hemlock of good quality. If an extra 
price is charged for six-inch material, then buy ten- 
inch planks and have them sawed through the middle, 
thus making the staves of five-inch material instead of 
six. Indeed, it is frequently a good plan to purchase 
the planks green and let them season before sawing. 
In this way, warping will be prevented. A question 
which will puzzle many who wish to build a tub silo 
is, How much shall the staves be beveled on the edge 
to make them fit in the circle ? We have recently .been 
making a careful study of the bevels, and have decided 
that there is no use of beveling the staves in the least. 
For a silo 16 feet in diameter, the bevel on each edge 
of the six-inch stave would be but about one-sixteenth 
inch, or the inside of the stave would be one-eighth 
inch narrower than the outside. If the staves are 
sawed true, they may be set up without being tongued 
and grooved, without beveling and without planing. 
The point of contact of the staves will be the inner 
edge, and there will be a slight opening at the outer 
edge. This will, in no way, interfere with the effi¬ 
ciency of the silo if the sawing was well done. In case 
it is desired to build a silo 24 or more feet high, it may 
be difficult to secure staves of the proper length. For a 
silo 24 feet high, I would use staves 14 and 10 feet long, 
square the ends which are to join, and simply set one 
upon the other, breaking joints with every other 
stave. To hold these joints well in place, use two flat 
hoops, two inches wide and three-sixteenths inch thick. 
Two of these hoops should pass around the silo, each 
covering a joint made by the union of the staves. The 
flat hoops may be reenforced at the end, and a shoulder 
made through which can pass the three-quarter-inch 
bolts used for making connections. This is a very 
simple way of splicing the staves, and when the coat¬ 
ing of coal tar is given to the interior, it will be prac¬ 
tically air-tight. It is preferable to have the hoops of, 
at least, two lengths, and have the bolts about four 
inches in length. 
Trouble With Moldy Ensilage. 
L. S. E-, Easton, Md .—I have been using a silo for seven or eight 
years, 12 x 9 feet, and 20 feet deep, but have trouble from molding 
around the sides; this trouble seems to increase, so much so that 
the past year, nearly one-quarter was lost. I have lined it with 
two thicknesses of rough boards with tar paper between, but 
notice that the moisture comes through the two boards. I use a 
Ross cutter, cut three-quarter inch long, and have a mau in the 
silo while filling to tramp down the ensilage. I have less trouble 
to cure field corn, than sweet corn after the ears are pulled. Since 
I have used sweet corn, T have thought, perhaps, there is not moist¬ 
ure enough in the fodder, so I have used from 30 to 40 buckets of 
water on it twice a day, the past year, while filling; but it seems 
to do no good. Would it help it any to put another lining of floor¬ 
ing-boards on the old boards, and put them on up and down ? Can 
the old boards absorb the moisture to cause the trouble ? I have 
one silo at the factory 16x24x16 feet for husks, and have no trouble. 
It is difficult to diagnose this case and prescribe a 
remedy without knowing more of the conditions ; I 
can simply offer some suggestions. In putting on the 
rough-board lining, if the boards are not put on ver¬ 
tically, it is possible that the friction of the ensilage 
against the sides is so great as to prevent proper set¬ 
tling. It is very possible that, if L. S. F. will purchase 
a barrel of coal-tar and give the interior of the silo a 
coat of paint, putting the tar on hot, the walls 
of the silo will be improved and made air-tight. From 
the account given of the way the ensilage is put up, I 
suspect that the trouble is not with the silo, but with 
the method practiced. If corn is put into the silo at 
the proper time, no water will be required. If not 
put in until the stalks are dry, it is almost impossible 
to wet them down enough to make them keep thor¬ 
oughly. An acre of corn producing 12 tons, if cut at 
the proper time for ensilage, contains about 17,000 
pounds of water. To attempt to supply this or any 
small per cent of it artificially, means that a bucket 
brigade must be organized if the bucket system is 
used and the work done thoroughly. Where corn, and 
especially sweet corn, is allowed to get too dry before 
being cut, it is rarely that it can be made to keep well. 
Nitrate of Soda in Corn Fertilizers. 
C. D. 13., Tribes Hill, N. Y .—In using nitrogen in the form of 
nitrate of soda, and making a formula with five per cent of nitro¬ 
gen, will that last through a season on corn ? In other words, 
how long will it furnish food for corn ? I do not like the idea of 
using so many kinds of material for nitrogen, if it can be avoided? 
Ans.—T here are several objections to using such a 
large proportion of nitrate of soda in a corn fertilizer. 
Corn makes its quickest and best growth late in the 
season—during hot weather. On open ground, during 
a wet season, some of the nitrate would be washed 
and drained out of the soil. Organic nitrogen is best 
for corn—it becomes available just when the corn most 
needs it. To obtain five per cent of nitrogen, you 
