1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
449 
ous, will eat out and kill all the buds on many vines. 
Although the vines usually put out a second growth 
later in the season, the fruit does not mature, so that 
the destruction of the buds by the beetles early in the 
Spring means the loss of the crop for that year. It is 
rather a local insect, and is often very destructive in 
certain localities. A few years ago, every bud upon 
some grape vines near the insectary was eaten out by 
these beetles before we discovered what was the 
trouble. It was then too late to save the buds, but 
the next season, we were on hand with an outfit loaded 
with Paris-green (one pound to 150 gallons of water), 
and with two or three applications, at intervals of a 
few days, we kept the swelling buds thoroughly coated 
with the poisonous mixture; although the beetles 
appeared in destructive numbers, they were killed and 
the crop saved. We had no further trouble with the 
beetles upon these vines for two or three years, and 
had become careless in consequence, so that in 1897, 
we were not upon the watch, and the insect got the 
start of us again, so that nearly all the buds were 
again killed. We demonstrated, to our own satisfac¬ 
tion, at least, that this insect can be successfully com¬ 
bated by thorough work with a Paris-green spray 
upon the buds early in the season. 
When the leaves begin to come out, the beetles lay 
their eggs upon the under sides in clusters, and from 
these eggs are hatched the young brown grubs which 
may be found feeding in groups upon the leaves later 
in the season. Whenever large numbers of these brown 
grubs are seen feeding upon the leaves, if one would 
spray these parts of the vine with- Paris-green, the 
insects could be easily killed, and their development 
into the blue beetles, which would go into hibernation 
and come forth next Spring to feed upon the buds, 
would thus be prevented. Be on the watch early in 
the season, and keep the buds coated with a Paris- 
green spray,and this insect can be successfully checked. 
Various Styles of Budding. 
U. O. A., Escondido, Cal .—What did Mr. Van Deman mean by 
Winter budding in an article last Summer on Horticulture for 
the Children ? Is it practiced on outdoor stock, or entirely in the 
greenhouse ? I know absolutely nothing about any but the or¬ 
dinary shield budding as practiced in the Summer. I would be 
pleased to learn about different methods. 
ANSWERED BY H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Winter budding is a style of shield budding that is 
usually done out of doors, and as the name indicates, 
in Winter, when the stocks are supposed to be dor¬ 
mant. It is not a suitable method for any region 
where the climate is severe in Winter, but where freez¬ 
ing is light and of rare occurrence, or better still, 
where it never occurs. California, among the citrus 
fruits, would seem to me to be an ideal place for the 
work, although I have not had an opportunity to try 
it under such conditions. It might, also, be called a 
style of chip-budding, for it is done by simply cutting 
out a chip from a scion or bud-stick of the size and 
shape of an ordinary shield bud, only making the cut 
a little deeper than for Summer budding. A similar 
cut is made on the stock, except that it is usually made 
downwards, and the strip left hanging by the lower 
end. The bud is then put in place, care being taken 
to match the cambium layers on one side, at least, if 
the stock is larger than the scion, as is usually the 
case, and the flap or strip of bark and wood is pressed 
over the bud and securely tied. Waxed cloth is the 
best material, as it prevents the drying of the bud. 
Any good tying material may be zzsed, such as rafiia, 
corn shucks or strips of tender muslin. A lit ole wax 
over all would be a benefit, especially in a dry climate. 
The main idea is to keep the parts together and in 
normal condition until vital union has taken place. 
This is a sort of compromise between budding and 
grafting. 
We are likely to think that, in the dormant stage, 
there is no vital action of trees and other vegetation, 
but simply an entire cessation of it. This is not the 
case as we well know, when we stop to consider things 
that take place. For instance, scions that are cut in 
Winter and kept in a moist, cool condition, will callus 
wherever the cambium layer is severed. Nature is heal¬ 
ing over the breaches made in her works. It is this 
action progressing jointly with stock and scion that 
causes root grafts to unite in the cellar long before 
time to set them in the nursery row. As to other 
styles of budding about which inquiry is made, aside 
from the common shield method, there are several. 
Mortise budding is done by cutting a mortise in the 
stock with square shoulders above and below, or, with 
them sloping inward, and the bud is cut out with 
square or sloping ends to the wood to match the mor¬ 
tise. These forms are shown at the right in Fig. 201. 
The bud should be tied or waxed, or both, as just de¬ 
scribed for wintei'-budding. This method is suitable 
for early Spring when the stocks are yet dormant. 
It is almost the same as grafting, and might be called 
one style of bud grafting. A little later in the Spring, 
when the stocks have begun to grow, and the bark 
will peel, what is known as Spring budding may be 
practiced. To do this, it is necessary to hold scions 
in cold storage, or in some way keep them dormant, 
and then bud after the ordinary shield method. In 
this way, I have often budded stocks that would not 
take, or were not budded from any cause in the Fall. 
Prong budding is another style that is qzzite popu¬ 
lar under certain conditions or with certain classes of 
trees. It consists in inserting a short branch or prong 
on which is, at least, one very well developed bud. 
It is well proved to my satisfaction, from my own ex¬ 
perience, that the stronger the buds that are inserted, 
whether in budding or grafting, the better they will 
grow, provided the union takes place in the cambium 
layers, thus furnishing the buds with the vital fluid 
of the stock. Nature stores various amounts of food 
in the buds and in the parts adjoining them, for the 
sustenance, in part, of the future shoots when start¬ 
ing. This is plainly seen in the growth which cut¬ 
tings often make before they strike root, and lay 
hold of the nourishment in the soil. Animals some¬ 
times feed upon the starch that is stored in the buds 
and little branches of trees and bushes. This prong 
budding is a common practice in California by the 
walnut growers. Short prongs are very common on 
the young growth of all nut trees. The work may be 
done before the bark peels in the Spring, by the chip 
or mortise method, or later when it peels readily, by 
the bark method. In the latter case, the greatest 
care must be exercised to have the bud scions not too 
active, but just so the bark will peel on them, and 
that on the stocks mzzst peel readily. A shield is cut 
off with the prong, and the wood taken out to lay 
bare as much of the cambium layer as possible, in 
order to make the chances of union as great as pos¬ 
sible. But the utmost care must be used not to re¬ 
move the germ from under the bud. This is often 
done in extracting the wood from large buds, and the 
buds will not or cannot grow—although they may, ap¬ 
parently, be in the best condition. The retention of 
THREE GOOD METHODS OF BUDDING. Fig. 201. 
this germ on the shield is, therefore, absolutely essen¬ 
tial to success. Fig. 201 shows a prong bud half way 
inserted. 
Ring budding is performed only when the bark on 
both scion and stock peels easily. A band of bark is 
taken out of the stock either entirely or partly around 
it, and a similar one taken from the scion, with a 
thrifty bud in the center. These rings must be of 
exactly the same size, both in length and breadth. If 
the stock is larger than the scion, as will often be the 
case, then the bark must be taken off only part way 
around it, so that the band with the bud on it will 
just fit into the bared place. Tie as in shield budding. 
Fig. 201 shows the two parts of this style not yet put 
together. It is used very successfully with nut trees 
and other difficult things to bud. August or Septem¬ 
ber is the usual time to perform it in the greater part 
of this country. 
Telescope budding is almost like ring budding, only 
that the stock is cut off entirely and a ring of bark 
taken off at the top. A similar ring is wrenched loose 
and pulled off without splitting it from a scion of the 
same size, and with a bud attached. This is slipped 
down over the bare part of the stump, telescope fash¬ 
ion, and wrapped to prevent evapoi-ation. This has 
been called flute budding, but I think the other a more 
suitable name. It would usually kill a stock to check 
it thus by cutting away its whole top in the ordinax-y 
budding season ; but in the late Spring, it would work 
very well making a gi’owth the same season, as with 
all other styles of Spring budding. 
June budding is a term which is applied to the art 
of inserting a bud in a seedling stock of that year 
while the growth of the latter is scarcely half made, 
and forcing the bud to develop into a shoot the same 
season. This saves a year of time in the nursery ; but 
the trees are quite small, because young when trans¬ 
planted. They are liked by many who have tried 
them in the orchard as well as in the nursery. The 
same thing may be done on sprouts on large trees. It is 
used in the nursery, only on the peach, apricot and 
almond so far as I know. I experimented with this 
method many yeaz*s ago, and learned by it, that it will 
not do to insert the bud and cut away the top at once, 
as might be supposed to be the proper way. In the 
first place, it is rather difficult to find buds sufficiently 
ripe early enough in the season to insert them and 
make a good growth this year. However, by taking 
strong shoots and using only the older buds, those 
that are fairly well developed, they will grow. As 
soon as budded, grab the bushy part of the stock in 
the hand and crop off about half of it. Or, bend over 
the stock and half break it off a safe distance above 
where the bud is inserted. This will foi - ce the bud to 
start, and not kill the stock, as cutting off is almost 
sure to do. When the sprout from the bud is well into 
leaf, cut off the stock close to it, and keep all other 
sprouts rubbed off. 
This method is scaz-cely entitled to the name June 
budding, for the date at which the new buds are 
ready to insert, and the stocks sufficiently large to 
work, is not befoi’e July, except in the Gulf States. 
The season is not long enough in the more northern 
States to get the young shoot sufficiently large and 
mature to endure the following Winter. In the South, 
it is all right for both nurseryman and orchardist. 
There are still other but unimportant styles of bud¬ 
ding, such as H budding, cross budding, plate bud¬ 
ding, etc. But the vital points in any and all are to 
do the work in the proper season for each, to get the 
cambium layers of the stock and bud in close contact, 
and to keep them so and in as near normal condition 
as possible. Get a thorough undei’standing of the 
pz-inciples of the style to be used, and never hurry 
until it is at the same time easy to do the work well. 
It is not so much the number of buds set that counts, 
as the number that grow. 
White Grub-Infested Soil. 
C. jD., Dayton , Fa.—What is the best way to treat a piece of 
ground that must be cropped this year, that is badly infested 
with White grubs! Will a liberal application of salt be effective? 
Ans. —It would be well to grow some crop on the 
land that the White grub will not trouble much. 
The cow pea or potato would be of this character. 
The season is now well advanced, and any crop which 
wozzld require the whole of it to mature, would not 
be suitable. Common salt would have some effect in 
killing the grubs, but it would require so much of it 
to kill about all of them that it would injure any 
crop that might be growing. There is no fertility in 
the salt. Why not put on 200 to 500 pounds of kainit 
per acre? About 12 per cent of this is potash, and 
the rest is salt. It would pay to apply it for the pot¬ 
ash there is in it, and the salt may do some good. It 
will take three years for the land to be clear of the 
larvae of the White grubs, provided this is the first 
year of cultivation since there was a chance for the 
eggs to be laid. The larvae spend three years in the 
ground before they emerge as perfect beetles com¬ 
monly known as the June bugs. h. k. v. d. 
How to Make Strawberry Wine. 
R. E. T., New Albany, Ind .—How can I make a good sweet wine 
out of strawberries, one that will keep a good bright red, and 
will not sour or change color ? 
Ans.—A satisfactory by-product of the strawberry 
would be a distinct advantage to the commercial 
grower. Especially during a season like the present 
when, in general, berries are plenty and prices low, 
would it be desirable to provide some side issue to the 
fresh fruit market. Inquiries of several leading firms 
manufactui-ing horticultural by-products, show that 
no attempt has been made to utilize the strawberry, 
on a commercial scale, in that industry. While none 
reports the manufacture of strawberry wine, cider or 
vinegar, all are confident that these could be made 
successfully for the home larder. Under pi’esent con¬ 
ditions, however, it is doubtful whether the enterprise 
would be a financial success if established on a com¬ 
mercial basis. Nevertheless, it cannot be long before 
greater attention must be directed to these incidental 
features of horticultural work. With increasing com¬ 
petition, other industries have found profit only in 
utilizing every waste, and in broadening the market. 
It must be thus with horticulture. One or more 
standard commercial by-products of the sti'awberry 
are forthcoming in due season. 
The suggestions here given are adapted for home use 
only. To make strawberry wine, the fresh, ripe fruit 
is crushed, put into an earthen jar and covered with cold 
water. This starts fermentation. After two or three 
days, press out the juice and add two pounds granu¬ 
lated sugar to each gallon of the liquid. Run the 
material into casks placed in the cellar, and allow it 
to ferment with open bungs for several months. 
Often it will take till March to complete fermentation. 
When this is finished, strain and bottle. This should 
make a clear, first-quality wine, which will keep 
indefinitely. 
A fair cider may be made by simply crushing out 
the juice, and allowing it to ferment in an open cask, 
without the addition of sugar. By leaving this in a 
warm place for several months, it becomes sufficiently 
acidified to pass for vinegar. A better grade of straw¬ 
berry vinegar may be made by adding to each gallon 
of the fruit juice about a pound of brown sugar, and 
following the same methods as in making cider vinegar 
An excellent Summer drink may be made from 
sti’awberries in this way : Soak two quarts of whole 
fruit in one quart of cider vinegar for two days, then 
pour off the liquid over two quarts of fresh fruit, and 
allow it to stand as before. Repeat a third time and 
strain. To each pint of the liquid, add one pound of 
granulated sugar, boil slowly for five minutes, skim, 
cool for & quarter hour, bottle and seal. One or two 
teaspoonfuls of this in a glass of sweetened water 
gives inward satisfaction. These suggestions are 
applicable to other small fruits, with minor adapta¬ 
tions for special purposes. s. w. fletcher. 
