48o 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
July 9 
plants, and similar booms across creeks or bayous 
might prevent their spread. The use of poisons or 
other destructive substances in the water seems use¬ 
less. The plant has been used as a fertilizer, both rotted 
and green, and is also a good food for cattle and hogs ; 
but these uses can hardly be expected to keep the 
plant under control. It is suggested that the best 
means of control may be through parasitic disease pe¬ 
culiar to the plant, which might be introduced from its 
native habitat. We would imagine, however, that it 
would be necessary to be very eareful in the introduc¬ 
tion of any disease unless absolutely certain that its 
ravages would be confined to the obnoxious plant. 
FORMALIN AS A MILK PRESERVATIVE. 
The term, formalin, has come to be used, for short, 
for formic acid, formaldehjffie, formic aldehyde, etc., 
and it is known to chemists as one of the most im¬ 
portant of food preservatives. It is at once apparent 
that what will preserve milk sweet for several days, 
and affect neither its taste, appearance nor whole¬ 
someness, must be regarded as a boon to mankind. 
Whether formic aldehyde does this, has been the sub¬ 
ject of much comparatively recent investigation. For¬ 
malin has a pungent odor, and is a powerful antiseptic. 
It is expensive, but so trifling an amount is required, 
as to render its use comparatively inexpensive. An 
English chemist, to 100 cubic centimeters of milk, 
added four to five drops in a 40-per-cent solution of 
water, and the milk kept sweet for six weeks. 
Another experiment showed that, when the for¬ 
malin was added in the proportion of one part formal¬ 
in to 1,000 parts milk—the milk containing 040,000 
germs at the start—at the end of 48 hours, the milk 
was sterile, and remained so for four days, the bacteria 
having been completely killed. One part formalin to 
5,000 parts milk kept it perfectly for 100 hours. For¬ 
malin, being a volatile substance, gradually disap¬ 
pears from the milk, and at the end of a week, cannot 
be detected, unless a large amount is used. It is 
thought by some chemists that one part formalin to 
5,000 parts milk is a harmless and effective proportion 
—harmless to persons of good digestion. 
Proteids are made insoluble from added formalin in 
considerable quantities, and tests have been made to 
ascertain its effect upon the casein of milk, which was 
found to be 94 per cent insoluble from its addition ; 
96hi per cent of the vegetable casein in peas and beans, 
and about 98 per cent of protein substances generally 
are made insoluble by formalin ; but by the addition 
of certain other ingredients with the formalin, the 
digestion was found to be perfect—the other ingredi¬ 
ents being one dram of pepsin, 10 drops 113 'drochloric 
acid, and one part formalin to 1,000 parts of milk. 
With boiled milk, the result was practically the same. 
The danger in using formalin lies in using more than 
the proportion of one part to 5,000 parts of milk. 
This acid has been tried on meat, but with very in¬ 
different success. Cloths soaked in formalin of differ¬ 
ent strengths were used to wrap meat, but the meat 
spoiled in about the same time as did untreated milk, 
and similar unsatisfactory results have been obtained 
by using formalin in treating butter. The use of for¬ 
malin in detecting gelatine adulterations in foods, is 
considei’ed very reliable, as albuminoids are rendered 
insoluble by it. In Germany, an emulsion of gelatine 
is sometimes used to enrich skim-milk, and rises in 
time to form a layer of “ cream” on the top, and the 
Germans seem to be leaders in food adulterations. 
When formalin has been applied to meat extracts, in 
no case was over one per cent made insoluble by the 
formalin, which was pretty conclusive proof that meat 
extracts, however highly advertised, are nutritious so 
far as proteids are concerned. It is very generally 
understood by chemists that they are stimulative rather 
than nutritive. M. w. f. 
WHEN WHEAT IS RIPE. 
SHOCK IT AND STACK IT. 
Cut When Ripe. —Harvesting wheat is the subject 
uppermost among many farmers, just at present. 
When is it ripe ? is a question on which there is much 
difference of opinion. With me, when the straw is 
ripe—clear, semitransparent—the wheat is ripe, and 
there is no delaying for the heads to mature further, 
for the earliest cut, if properly secured and cured, is 
brightest and heaviest. I have sold for more than 
market price, by cutting early and taking proper care 
of the grain. 
How to Make a Shock. —The shocks should consist 
of not too many bundles, preferably 11 of medium to 
large sheaves, set four in a row, then three on each 
side, making 10 , leaving the lltli for a capsheaf. 
This capping of the shock is important, as often, all 
the difference between good, sound grains, and moldy, 
grown wheat, may be caused by capping. To break 
the capsheaf, it should betaken with the butts against 
the abdomen, lay the sheaf over the left forearm, then 
with the right hand, spread and break apart the head 
end, and lastly, break completely the sheaf so it will 
bend over and cover the round shock, which has been 
grasped around the heads and squeezed to as small a 
compass as possible. Lay the capsheaf on top, the 
heads toward the direction of the prevailing wind. If 
properly done, the shocks will stand until the grain is 
dry, and not be weather-stained or discolored, regard¬ 
less of rainy weather. Of course, the careful farmer 
would replace any caps blown off, which would be few 
indeed if the sheaves are set up snugly, and the tops 
squeezed into good shape, I always leave my wheat 
out in the field long enough to cure thoroughly ; some¬ 
times three weeks have passed before hauling into the 
barn, or stack if necessary to stack. 
A Long Stack Best. —If obliged to stack, I find very 
few competent even to assist, without repeated tell¬ 
ing to “Stand there”, and “Don’t stand there”. 
Very few, indeed, realize the importance of keeping 
away from the edge, and keeping near the middle. I 
prefer a long, to a round stack, because it is easier to 
keep symmetrica], and I can make one larger without 
its becoming too high. To begin such a stack, I set 
2 x 2 lengthwise of the proposed stack, with room to 
lengthen the stack five feet at each end ; then lay a 
layer around these, the heads on the bands, and con¬ 
tinue until the bottom is large enough. Then I begin 
at the edge, and lay around again, gradually working 
to the middle, which must be kept full, and much 
higher than the outside, so that every layer slopes to¬ 
wards the edge. At about 10 feet high, I begin to 
draw in at the outside, and at each succeeding course, 
bring the top smaller until I lay a sheaf lengthwise, 
and lastly a little fine hay if to be had, or rakings. 
Then I put on hangers, and the stack is complete, and 
if properly built, will shed water. Bundles are w r orst 
to stack, either of wheat or oats, but by being careful, 
and if possible, driving the loads on alternate sides, it 
is possible to make stacks that will keep as long as is 
necessary. Many prefer to stack grain, and put hay 
in the barn, as the hay would damage more than grain, 
by the elements. 
Help on the Stack. —When I stack, I require an 
assistant, who pitches the sheaf to me as nearly as 
possible as I want it to lie, the heads in the right 
direction. This assistant must stand near the middle 
of the stack, and not walk around much, as the ten¬ 
dency is to shove out the sheaves on the sloping top. 
It seems easy enough to stack, yet I have in mind a 
stack of hay that was built last year, that is com¬ 
pletely rotten in the middle, and all because the mid¬ 
dle was not trodden as hard as the edges, consequently 
settled most, and the stack assumed the shape of a 
funnel instead of an umbrella. The hangers are sim¬ 
ply two old rails tied together by tarred rope six feet 
long, and hung over the top of the stack, two pairs 
being required. The two rails must be nearly of equal 
weight, as one heavier than the other would tend to 
pull the top in that direction, and the stack would lean. 
New Jersey. h. t. adams. 
A FARM BOUNDED BY WATER. 
FEATHERS AND FUR ON FAMED FISHER’S ISLAND. 
[editorial correspondence.] 
Part V. 
Doings of the Ducks. —Besides the wild ducks, 
larger numbers of Imperial Pekins are raised. The 
house for breeders alone is 18x120 feet, and they have 
one of the small lakes in which to take their water 
exercise. This house is heavily bedded with the clover 
hay taken from the houses of the breeding fowls, which 
are cleaned out every week. Thus this hay does 
double duty. The ducks are confined at night, and 
until they have laid in the morning, which they do 
very early. Although a water fowl, the duck must 
have dry quarters, and the warmer these are the 
earlier will eggs be obtained. There is a brooder 
house for ducks, 30x80 feet, with a four-foot walk 
through the middle. I saw some pens of ducklings, 
also, in the chicks’ brooder house. 
Hatching and Growing the Ducklings. —Most of 
the ducks are hatched in incubators which are run 
under about the same conditions as for chicks. After 
they are transferred to the brooder house, the first 
feed consists of rolled oats and bran, one-third, oats 
and two-thirds bran, on which they are kept for about 
10 days. After this, the rolled oats are gradually 
dropped, and corn meal and middlings are added, 
using a little less than two-thirds bran and middlings, 
and making up the two-thirds with beef scrap, one- 
third the total feed being corn meal. When the 
ducks are four to six weeks old, more beef scrap is 
added, and if they are to be fattened, still more scrap 
is fed, and the corn meal and bran are lessened pro¬ 
portionately until killing time. They are fit to kill 
at 8 to 10 weeks of age, the choicest being saved for 
breeders. 
Feeding the Breeders. —The first principle laid 
down is that breeding ducks should be fed on a diet 
that is not fattening, and which consists of, at least, 
one-third vegetables of some variety. Cabbages, 
turnips and carrots all are good, and are usually 
boiled and mixed with the other food. Mixed with 
the vegetables are equal parts of corn meal, bran and 
middlings. A short time before the ducks are ex¬ 
pected to begin laying, about a pint of beef scrap is 
added to each pailful of food ; after they begin to lay, 
the amount of scrap is doubled. Mr. Crangle says 
that no cast-iron rules can be laid down as to kind 
and quantity of food ; the ducks must not get too fat, 
or the eggs will not be fertile, or else the germs will 
be weak. The ducks must be handled to learn their 
condition, and if too fat, the feed must be changed. 
They must not be overfed, and if the food given is not 
all eaten clean, the remainder must be removed at 
once, as the ducks are very easy to get out of condition 
from overfeeding. Considerable skill is required to 
handle a flock in such a manner as to secure the 
largest number and most fertile eggs, and each flock 
must be studied to secure best results. 
The Pekin Ducks. —This breed seems to be, by long 
odds, the leader among duck breeders. All the great 
duck farms on Long Island and in other places use 
this breed. Why ? Evidently, because they can get 
more money from it. It is only about a quarter cen¬ 
tury since its introduction into this country, yet all 
the other breeds combined cannot equal it in numbers 
produced in this country. It is very large in size, 
rivaling the geese in this respect. Its plumage is 
abundant and snowy white. The rich orange color of 
bill and legs is very attractive. It is a very rapid 
grower, prolific layer, and extremely hardy. The 
young ducks frequently attain five to six pounds in 
weight at 10 weeks of age. The white plumage ren¬ 
ders it one of the best to di-ess for market. Bred 
under so nearly natural conditions as they are here, 
it is no w r onder that such grand specimens have been 
developed. f. h. v. 
The Farmers’ Club 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address of 
the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question please 
see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
A Round or a Square Silo. 
E. P., Ml. Lebanon, N. 7 .—I intend to build a silo in the place 
of a bay in the barn, reaching down to the basement that has a 
stone foundation about 12 feet high. I could make it about 
12 x 12 x 40 feet. I am reading F. W. Woll’s Book on Silage. Any 
further suggestion, reference or advice as to latest points would 
be highly appreciated. Is tar paper between the boarding ad¬ 
visable ? Would a round silo be practicable in such a situation ? 
Ans. —If the location is such that a silo 40 feet deep 
can be readily filled, there is no objection to the 
dimensions named, only it will be necessary to take 
great precautions to build very strongly, especially 
the lower half of the silo. Forty feet of settling en¬ 
silage will exert a tremendous lateral pressure at the 
bottom of the silo. We believe in round silos, and if 
one can be set up in this situation nearly 12 feet in 
diameter, we would recommend it; but if the size 
must be considerably reduced to make room to set it 
up, it is probable that a square silo will be more suit¬ 
able. The square silo should be double boarded, with 
tar paper between—taking care to break joints. The 
corners should be cut oft' to prevent loss of ensilage 
by decay. This silo will cost more for material and 
labor than will a round silo in the same location ; but 
it will have somewhat more capacity. If the surround¬ 
ings permit, it will be better economy to go outside 
and build a round silo 15 x 30 feet. This will have ap¬ 
proximately the same capacity as a square silo 
12x12x40 feet. If 2x6 pine or hemlock lumber be 
used for the staves, no beveling is necessary, as the 
wood will press together at the inside edges to make 
a close joint. 
How to Drill Artesian Wells. 
R. C. T., Pineyoille, La .—How are artesian wells drilled and 
sunk ? 
Ans. —Artesian wells, properly, are wells which 
flow, though the term, “ artesian,” is now applied to 
all deep drilled wells. There are two methods of 
making them, one of which is with an “ auger ” which 
turns ’round like a common wood auger until the soft 
earth clogs it. It is then hoisted by a windlass, 
cleaned, and used again till sufficient depth is attained. 
With this method, if quicksand is encountered, or if 
bowlders or rock are found, work must cease, as no 
auger is made which will work successfully in these. 
Therefore, the common method of making such wells 
is with a drill. 
In this case, the well is made by working the drill 
up and down like a churn-dasher. The point of it is 
shod with steel dressed with a blunt edge, and of 
proper width. It is attached to a stout cable by which 
it is lifted from 2 to 15 feet, an4 allowed to fall with 
