1898 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
785 
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see whether it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask 
only a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate 
piece of paper.] 
Cutting Back Peach Trees. 
J. L. li., Plainville, N. J. —I would like to ask Mr. John Dawes, 
page 737, in what way a peach tree is ruined by cutting back in 
the Spring. I have cut back the new wood oue-half to two- 
thirds ou peach trees, for the past 30 years or more, and can see 
no reason for discontinuing the practice. I do the same with 
quince trees, and have trees that have borne heavy crops for the 
past 12 years, the tops of which are so losv that I can pick all the 
quinces from the top of the trees by standing on a box 12 inches 
high. I am now doing the same, with Japan plums with good 
success. 
Ans —I cannot tell why cutting back peach trees 
ruins them. I can only give my experience with the 
practice. I cut back peach trees at two different times 
several years ago, with disastrous results each time ; 
the trees operated upon had made a growth of about 
four feet, and I cut them back about two-thirds. The 
wood blackened and died where cut off, the trees came 
in leaf, made a feeble growth that season, and the 
next died. It might not affect trees the same way 
that were making a slower growth, but these trees 
were very thrifty, and the shock seemed too great for 
them. I would not cut back peach trees under any 
consideration, neither would I condemn the practice 
on the part of others, if I had been successful with it. 
There is no cast-iron rule governing all localities and 
conditions. John dawes. 
Fertilizers for Small Fruits. 
\V. A'., North Vineland. N. J. —I have four acres of strawberries, 
set out this Spring. They are chiefly in low black soil, well 
drained; the rows are matted, and about three feet wide. They 
look .very well. The land had no manure of any kind, except 
weeds turned under, for two years. I wish to give the plants some 
potash. What would you advise, and what quantity ? When is 
the best time to put the fertilizer on ? I do not mulch my berries. 
I wish the strawberries to get the benefit of the manure, and 
desire large fruit. Would it pay me to use nitrogen in the 
Spring, and if so, how much ? Would you recommend potash this 
Fall ? I also have a young orchard planted with raspberries. 
What kind of fertilizer would be desirable for them, and when 
should it be applied ? My land is not poor, but I want to increase 
the berries in size, and to keep the laud up at the same time. 
Ans. —We do not know what benefit is gained by 
applying potash in the Fall over applying it in the 
Spring, because it is perfectly soluble. The muriate 
of potash is in every way as effective as the sulphate, 
and costs less. It may be that your land needs phos¬ 
phate as well as potash. We would, therefore, advise 
you to apply superphosphate just before growth begins 
in the Spring, and nitrate of soda at the same time. 
As to what quantity you should use is a question as 
to how much you care to spend. We would suggest at 
the rate of 200 pounds of potash per acre, 400 pounds 
of superphosphate, and 150 pounds of nitrate of soda. 
We would use precisely the same fertilizers, and in the 
same quantities, for the raspberries that we would 
use for strawberries, and we would apply them at the 
same time. 
Some Fruit Tree Questions. 
C. E. II., Bishop, III. —1. Wbat causes apple, pear and cherry 
trees to bloom at this time of year? 2. Do you know anything 
about the Mercer cherry V 3. Is it true that pears are exempt 
from blight when budded on French stock ? 
Anb. —1. A rainy Spring and early Summer are con¬ 
ducive to excessive growth. If then a severe drought 
follow, the growth is checked and, to a certain extent, 
buds mature. If then, later in the season, rainy 
weather should follow, these buds are stimulated, and 
a second bloom is the result. 2. The Mercer is nearly 
black in color, fully as large as the Black Tartarian, 
and of better quality. It is claimed to be a first-rate 
shipper. 3. We should say not. 
Plowing Under Crimson Clover. 
1. A. T., New Castle, Pa. —I turned under four acres of new sod- 
ground last Winter. The brush roots were so thick that I had to 
plow deeper than I otherwise would—eight or nine inches. I 
planted the field to sweet corn and early cabbage, securing a 
very large yield. On July 19, after working the ground for the 
last time, I sowed Crimson clover. It is six to eight inches high, 
and a perfect mat over the entire field. By May 1, with a good 
season, it will be two feet tall. Will it do to turn that under about 
the middle of April or first of May, and plant early potatoes on 
it ? If not, would it be safe to let it blossom and plant corn and 
late potatoes on it, say about June 1 ? I am afraid of the resuits 
of fermentation. 
Anb.— We would not hesitate to turn that clover 
under in time, and plant either corn or potatoes up to 
June 1. We did that very thing last year with con¬ 
siderable success. This year we have 10 acres or more 
of Crimson clover, and we expect to begin plowing it 
under the latter part of next April, and shall plant 
potatoes on it as fast as we can turn it under. We 
have had no trouble with souring or fermenting of 
green crops, except when plowed under in the very 
hot weather late in Summer. Up to June 1, if the 
clover be plowed under and rolled after plowing, we 
doubt whether there will be any trouble from it. In 
our experience, the Crimson clover decays rapidly, and 
becomes quickly available for growing crops. 
What Does the Soil Need? 
C. L. N., Dorchester, Mo. —I have a garden of oue-eighth acre 
upon which I put the manure from 30 to 40 hens, the henhouse 
being kept well filled with pine and oak leaves. I also putou it the 
ashes from the kitchen stove, but as these are from pine wood, 
they are of little or no value. My potatoes grow enormous vines, 
but small and few tubers. Sweet corn does not seem to produce 
as it should when we consider the quantity of manure put upon 
it; neither are my other vegetables anything extra. This fall, I 
put about 10 bushels of stonelime upon it, and 150 pounds of 
kainit, and sowed it to wheat, for a Winter pasturage for my 
hens. In the Spring, I shall plow it and make my usual garden. 
It has been used for a garden only four years. Will this give the 
desired Result ? 
Anb. —These conditions indicate that the land is 
deficient in phosphoric acid and potash. The hen 
manure contains considerable nitrogen, but much less 
of the other substances. The enormous growth of the 
vines indicates an excess of nitrogen, for that, element 
promotes growth rather than development of seed or 
fruit. Possibly the land is sour, perhaps made so by 
the pine leaves, as these have a tendency to make the 
land acid. In that case, the lime would have a good 
effect upon the land. The kainit will, also, prove 
helpful, but you cannot expect to get the best results 
until you add phosphoric acid in some form. Prob¬ 
ably with you, the ground bone will prove the cheap¬ 
est source of phosphoric acid, and we would use at 
least 200 pounds of ground bone in the Spring, harrow¬ 
ing it well in after plowing. You ought then to.be 
able to make your garden produce good crops. 
Killing Out Wild Balsams. 
C. F. M., Freeburg, Pa. —A piece of ground is almost covered 
over with wild and blue balsams. How can I destroy them ? 
Ans.—T he best remedy we know for weeds is what 
Prof. Roberts calls ‘‘hot plow shares.” Short rota¬ 
tions keep the land covered with some crops which 
will permit of cultivation, and then do not neglect 
to cultivate. There are few weeds which can with¬ 
stand persistent cultivation. Plow the land this Fall 
if possible. If not plowed this Fall, plow in early 
Spring, using the jointer on the plow, and turn under 
deeply. Plant corn in check rows so that the cultiva¬ 
tor can be run through both ways. When the corn 
is off in the Fall, plow the land again. Let it lie up, 
rough and uneven, and in the Spring, harrow down. 
Let all weeds start and then with the harrow destroy 
them. When Spring frosts are over, sow German mil¬ 
let thickly and cover lightly. By the time the millet 
is off, all weeds will have become so weakened that 
they can be easily destroyed. l. a. c. 
Feeding Buttermilk to Pigs. 
A. M., P. E. Island .— I am getting buttermilk from a creamery 
at the rate of about 500 pounds per day. I have purchased a lot 
of pigs, and I wish to make the most out of it. With buttermilk 
at 10 cents per 100 pounds, and cracked corn at $1 per 100 pounds, 
in what proportion, and in what quantity, can it be fed to hogs 
of 125 pounds weight, so as to produce the best results ? What 
would be the cost of pork per pound on such feed ? 
Ans.—A ccording to experiments at the Wisconsin 
Experiment Station and elsewhere, it has been found 
that about five pounds of skim-milk are equivalent in 
feeding value to one pound of corn meal. Buttermilk, 
which is not watered, is of the same feeding value for 
pigs as skim-milk, and providing cracked corn is as 
digestible as corn meal, we may consider the results of 
these experiments adaptable to our case. It is also 
found from an average of many experiments that pigs 
weighing about 125 pounds require an equivalent of 
4 8 pounds of grain per day. Calculating on this basis, 
a ration of 2 % pounds of cracked corn and 12>£ pounds 
of buttermilk would be a fair ration for the pigs in 
question. This would give an equivalent of five 
pounds of grain per day, which is a little more than 
the average cited above. For pigs of greater weight 
it is found that those weighing from 150 to 200 pounds 
require an equivalent of 5.9 pounds of grain per day ; 
those weighing from 200 to 250 require 6.6 pounds; 
and those weighing from 250 to 350 require 7.5 pounds. 
By increasing in proportion the ration given above 
one can follow in the line found advantageous by these 
experiments. 
But as the pigs increase in age, it may be well to 
increase slightly the proportion of corn in order to 
make the ration a little more carbonaceous toward the 
finishing period. In the proportion of 2>ta' pounds of 
corn to 12>£ pounds of buttermilk, the nutritive ratio 
is 1:5, which is about right for growing pigs, but 
rather narrow for fattening. However, buttermilk is 
worth 20 cents per 100 pounds as compared with corn at 
§1, and it is economy to make the ration as much of 
buttermilk as possible. So much depends on the 
growth of the pigs that it is difficult to say exactly 
what the cost of pork per pound would be. Experi¬ 
ment station results show us that pigs weighing from 
100 to 300 pounds require on an average about 
480 pounds of feed (grain) for 100 pounds gain. 
Counting as above, five pounds of buttermilk equal to 
one pound of grain, and carrying the corn and butter¬ 
milk in the same proportion, there would be required 
for every 100 pounds of gain, 240 pounds of corn aud 
1,200 pounds of buttermilk. This would make 100 
pounds of gain cost $3.60. l. a. 
• Graniteware for Milk Pans. 
K., Rockland County, N. Y. —We would like the opinion of your 
readers ou the merits of graniteware milk pans and milking 
pails. Is white and blue enamel good ware for this purpose ? 
Anb.—T he best grades of granite and enameled ware 
make ideal milk vessels so long as they are kept in 
good condition. They are perfectly smooth inside 
and out, and are thus easily kept clean. If they are 
subjected to hard usage, the granite or enamel is 
cracked or peeled off, when they are no longer fit for 
use ; since the breaks cannot be soldered like tin, they 
are cleaned with difficulty, and the exposed metal 
soon rusts through. This feature of breakage and the 
fact that the best grades cost much more than good 
tinware, doubtless render these wares impracticable 
for factory use. However, for private use, they 
would be most excellent and, possibly, as cheap in the 
end as the best ironclad tinware. Cheap grades of 
granite or enameled ware should not be purchased, 
as they are not so good as poor tin. In this case, as 
in many others, it pays to buy only the best. L. A. 
A Worm That “Has Worms.” 
N. B. IV., Stow, N. Y.— I sead you a box containing a sprig of 
tomato with a worm attached that is badly afflicted with some 
new parasite. Or can it be the young tomato worm clinging to 
it ? I would like the opinion of your entomologist on this matter. 
ANSWERED BY PROF. M. Y. SLINOERLAND. 
The worm proved to be one of the common green 
tomato caterpillars—those large, formidable-looking 
worms of which so many people are afraid. Occasion¬ 
ally one finds one of these caterpillars which looks as 
though it had been rolled in rice which had been 
coated with glue, and the kernels had adhered to 
its back. This is the way the worm looked which 
N. B. W. sent. Usually, these caterpillars have a 
sickly gait, and well they may. These white objects 
projecting from the skin of the caterpillar, are not 
eggs or seeds, as some have supposed ; but each one is 
a cocoon within which there will be found a white 
maggot developing into a minute, four-winged fly ! 
How did the cocoons get into such a curious position ? 
It happened in this way : When the caterpillar was 
about half grown, one of these minute flies espied it 
and, hovering over it, darted down upon it, and at 
each dart, inserted a minute egg through the skin of 
the worm. Each little tiy is supplied with 100 or more 
eggs, and usually she does not stop until the poor, 
defenseless worm has received nearly the full stock. 
The worm, doubtless, wriggles as each egg is pricked 
through the skin, but it can do nothing to prevent 
the deadly work. In a short time, these minute eggs 
hatch into white maggots which thrive and grow fat 
at the expense of their host, that is all the time eating 
ravenously without its food having much effect so far 
as increase in its size is concerned, and how can the 
poor worm grow with 100 or more greedy little mouths 
at work within its body, absorbing the food as fast as 
it is assimilated ? 
Right here comes one of those mysterious things in 
nature that is so frequently met among insects. The 
little maggots working inside the body of the cater¬ 
pillar, understand perfectly well that, if they should 
attack a vital organ, their host would die, conse¬ 
quently their food supply would be cut off. Hence the 
maggots or parasites feed entirely and only on the 
juices and fatty tissues of the body, allowing the vital 
functions of their host to go on undisturbed until his 
death. 
In every case, the parasites become full-grown be¬ 
fore the caterpillar has become so weakened that 
death ensues. The full-grown maggots then work 
their way through the skin on the back of their host, 
and proceed to spin about themselves the white 
cocoons. It is a very interesting operation to watch 
one of these parasites spinning its cocoon about itself. 
The cocoon finished, the parasite transforms within 
through a pupa stage to the minute fiy like its parent, 
which laid the eggs in the worm. When the fiy has 
become fully formed, and is ready to escape from the 
cocoon, it deftly makes a cut around the upper end 
of the cocoon, and then pushes off the end, which 
opens like a little door, usually hinged at one side. 
The caterpillar usually lives but a short time after 
the parasites emerge from the cocoons. It is a curious 
sight to see one of these worms walking about with 
these cocoons attached to its back, and one should 
never destroy such an afflicted worm, for it is carry¬ 
ing latent destruction for many more caterpillars. 
Nearly 150 of the parasites have been bred from a 
single worm, and it seems strange that the parasites 
do not check the pest to a greater extent than they 
do. Perhaps they, in turn, have their enemies. Such 
things often happen in the insect world. 
