1904 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
89 
PRUNING PEACH ORCHA RDS. 
There is scarcely anything more im¬ 
portant to a peach orchard than cor¬ 
rect application of the principles that 
underlie successful pruning. Perhaps 
there is no other fruit tree more dif¬ 
ficult to prune than a peach. Some of 
the principles learned from years of 
experimental work with peach or¬ 
chards are given in this article in such 
AFTER ONE YEAR’S GROWTH. Fig. 40. 
a plain way as to be readily under¬ 
stood. 
The idea of correct training should 
come before pruning. We prune to 
train the tree according to our ideal of 
form. Sometimes pruning is done to 
remove dead wood and sometimes to 
thin the fruit. Hence, if a wrong ideal 
is followed, great injury may be done 
the orchard. The form of top should 
be decided upon before the orchard is 
set, and be strictly adhered to after¬ 
wards. The best form of top for a 
PRUNING AFTER ONE YEAR’S GROWTH. 
Fig. 41. 
given locality is not an easy thing to 
decide upon. Such things as moisture 
of soil, fertility, altitude, aspect and 
variety should be considered in decid¬ 
ing upon the best form of top. Most 
of the ugly and poorly formed tops are 
either due to neglect of training or to 
following an ideal wholly unsulted to 
the variety. Orchards with such tops 
break or split off with overloads of 
fruit one year and then recuperate next 
year without bearing any fruit. If a 
peach orchard is managed properly, it 
TREE THREE YEARS OLD. Fig. 42. 
ought to bear a medium crop of fine 
fruit each year. 
On What Wood Are Peaches 
Borne? Peaches come from buds that 
were formed the previous year, and 
nearly all of them come from the 
previous year’s growth of wood. Now, 
you can destroy the entire peach crop 
by cutting off last year’s growth of 
wood. But you can thin the fruit by 
cutting off part of this wood when 
pruning. In fact, I like to cut off the 
ends of peach limbs anyway. It causes 
the limbs to branch and become more 
stocky, and thus prevents the fruit 
from being borne on long angling 
limbs which are so easy to break or 
split off. The tree will make more 
bearing wood for next year and the 
fruit is kept nearer the ground where 
it is easier to gather. 
Wiiat Form of Top? —Observe the 
growth of forest trees nearby, and 
head your trees similarly. In dry 
southern climates the top should be 
very low. In northern and moister 
climates the top should be higher. If 
you do not follow this principle you 
must, keep up a continuous warfare 
against “water sprouts.” Valuable les- 
ons may also be learned along this line 
by noticing the forms of tops on the 
wild seedling trees found growing 
along old fences. We like the low vase 
form of top. To get this form the 
young tree as it comes from the nurs¬ 
ery where it grew in a crowded con¬ 
dition and had its top forced up very 
high, must be cut back and “started 
over again.” The buds on the small 
naked trunk should not be too latent 
to be forced out. For this reason we 
usually prefer the one-year-old trees. 
The peach is one of those trees that 
will stand heavy pruning with impun¬ 
ity. Under ordinary conditions we 
cut the young top off within 18 inches 
or two feet of the ground. The roots 
are cut off within two inches of the 
main trunk. In Fig. 40 is shown one 
of our most undesirable trees after 
making the first year’s growth in the 
orchard. The lower limbs have made 
much more heavy growth than those 
above them. This fact indicates that 
the “crown” should be started very 
low for the locality in which the tree 
was growing. It will also be noticed 
that these lusty growing lower limbs 
so shaded the right side of the trunk 
as to prevent other limbs from coming 
out higher up. In Fig. 41 is shown 
where we selected the crown and 
“dressed the tree” for next year’s work. 
This would seem too severe work to 
the amateur, but is is extremely im¬ 
portant to “start right,” even with a 
peach tree. 
In Fig. 42 is shown one of our or¬ 
chard trees at three years and when it 
commenced bearing heavily. The tree 
is well branched, the limbs are short 
and stubby and no ladder was neces¬ 
sary in gathering the fruit. We did 
not find it at all difficult to cultivate 
under • the trees.' Ample sunlight to 
color the fruit was permitted, the 
trunk of the tree is shaded by the 
limbs to lessen liability of sunscald. 
It was not troubled with water sprouts. 
Not a single limb broke or split off. 
Half the bearing wood was cut away 
to lessen the number of peaches and 
increase the size. The trees bore con¬ 
tinuously for five years, r. h. price. 
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