554 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
July 33, 
so (hat the distance of the water pipe from the ground 
level to the bottom of the tank would he .14 feet. I his 
must he especially protected from freezing as well as 
at least three feel below the top of the ground. Twenty- 
four years ago I put this system in, but not without 
the mistake that others have met with, although I fol¬ 
lowed the directions of an expert in plumbing in put¬ 
ting in this kind of a system without the experience 
perhaps of the probable results in severe Winter 
weather. This system lasted only into the second Win¬ 
ter, and all was frozen up. This gave me food for 
thought, as so much depended upon the constant supply 
of water for the house, and especially so with a dairy 
of :t5 cows and nearly half as many more head of young 
stock, horses, etc. While I look the precaution of hav¬ 
ing a hand pump constantly in the well in case of any 
breakage or mishap, 1 have never had to resort to this 
mode of getting water since the time referred to from 
any freezing of the pipe. Upon investigation at that 
time I readily saw what the cause was for freezing up. 
The pipe was wound around with paper and packed 
with sawdust, perhaps not as thoroughly as now is the. 
case, but no air space at that time was given between 
the pipe and paper, and at times the pipe ftdl of water 
will sweat and large beads of water will stand out and 
run down the pipe the whole length. I his dampness 
was taken up by the paper wound around the pipe, and 
no care taken about the condition of sawdust being dry. 
Upon investigation I found a sol id mass in places along 
the pipe, sawdust, paper and water in the pipe, and 
an interesting mess it was to think of supplying the 
needs of the farm that day with water. This hap¬ 
pened about the middle of January, 1880. T thawed out 
and got along the best I could until Spring with some 
annoyance of freezing. In the Spring 1 commenced 
thoroughly to remedy this trouble, and started at the 
top of the ground, digging down about three feet ; un¬ 
coupled the pipe and dropped round drain tile over the 
pipe until I reached the top of the ground, and placed 
the dirt firmly around these tiles; then screwed the pipe 
together. I went to the tinsmith and had tin cut of suf¬ 
ficient width to lap around the pipe, leaving Vj-inch 
space all around the pipe; had this tin run through 
the machine that would circle it for making conductor 
pipe; then it was ready for use. I placed each length 
around the pipe and securely wired it. New tin placed 
around the pipe in (his way by lapping it a little would 
need no soldering and would be far more convenient to 
put on. The Trst length I shoved down the tile about 
six inches; then continuing in this way to the bottom 
of the tank, lapping the tin a little on each other and 
securely wiring. Phis being done 1 got soft wrapping 
paper, and doubled it together in strips about eight 
inches in width, making in all 1 should say one dozen 
thicknesses of paper, not in one winding, but in two or 
more, being very careful to lap at each winding, and 
also wind very firmly, occasionally tying with strong 
linen string to hold these strips in their proper place. 
Then over these strips I took some heavy wrapping 
paper and made strips of three or more thicknesses 
about six inches in width, and covered the outside of 
these inner strips of paper, firmly wound it, and drew it 
very firmly together with copper wire. All of this 
covering would make the pipe about six inches across. 
My box around this pipe is about 12 inches each way, 
with the pipe running up through the center to the 
tank, and entering the bottom of the tank about 18 
inches from the outside. Water seldom if ever freezes 
at the bottom of a large tank when water is pumped 
in at the bottom, and in niy case it has never done 
so. It is very essential to have the sawdust perfectly 
dry, as any moisture will not only freeze, but will 
dampen the paper also, and perfectly dry sawdust is 
difficult for frost to penetrate, and will also pack to 
better advantage around the paper. No dampness will 
accumulate outside of the tin covering of the pipe. How 
much less covering or protecting a water pipe full of 
standing water, with the mercury .'to or more degrees 
below zero, will hear is for those that are looking for 
Winter trouble with frozen pipes to find out. Too 
much care cannot be taken while doing this kind of 
work. I examine the sawdust at the bottom of the 
tank each year to see that there has been no settling 
away. 
Concerning the water pipes laid under the ground 
leading to different buildings, the ground about the 
yard in different places where these pipes arc generally 
laid is very apt to freeze harder than in the open, espe¬ 
cially where constantly traveled upon, and pipes, 
whether lead or iron, if covered first with horseshoe 
tile will have an air space, and will resist the frost 
with far less depth of ground. My pipes are all put in 
to the depth of five feet, and no trouble in this direc¬ 
tion lias ever been given. It is a very difficult matter 
to tell just at what point pipes will freeze filled with 
standing water, and if every precaution in this direction 
is strictly observed, I think one will never have cause 
for regret. john w. wood. 
Oneida Co., N. Y. 
There seem to be a good many suggestions in re¬ 
gard to keeping water pipes from freezing. I would 
like to add one more to the list. My plan would be first 
to wrap the pipe with newspapers or paper sacks; then 
build a box 10 or is inches square around pipe, leaving 
pipe in center of box. I would then rake dead leaves 
and pack the box full, being careful to put nothing but 
dry leaves in. One side of the box could be cut in two 
or three foot lengths and nailed on as needed when 
packing in leaves. A trip to the woods in Winter will 
convince the most skeptical that a good coal of leaves 
is something that frost will have to turn aside for. 
Pennsylvania. _ w. w. kapj’. 
GROWING MELONS WITH FERTILIZERS. 
I have not been successful In growing musk melons and 
cantaloupes with commercial fertilizers. Do you know of 
anyone growing them profitably? If so, can you give the 
formula? 1 do not want the opinion of a theorist; what Is 
wanted is the “know-how” of an expert. w. t. 
Aiken, K. C. 
Muskmelons, like most of the vine fruits, such as 
watermelons, squash, cucumbers, etc., need a soil well 
supplied with humus. The muskmelon also is at its 
best iu a fairly sandy soil; not doing at all well in 
soils of a clayey nature. If inquirer has the proper 
soil I see no reason why he should not grow melons 
with fertilizers. If bis soil is destitute of humus lie 
must get it in some way before lie successfully grows 
muskmelons with fertilizer alone. This may be done 
by growing Crimson clover, cow peas or any such crops 
MHTIIOP OF Kll,LING FOWLS, fm, 242. See Page 557. 
prior to planting to melons. In fact, any good sod 
turned under will be found of advantage. My ideal for 
this crop is a Red clover sod from which the first crop 
has been cut and removed for hay, the aftermath let 
grow the rest of the season, and all turned under some 
time during the Winter or early Spring. 
In the South cow peas arc grown largely for a soil 
enricher and for supplying humus. I have not used 
them in my own operations, but think they would fill 
the bill nearly or quite as well as the clovers. The 
point is to get the soil supplied with humus, and the 
grower must see to that or he cannot expect to grow 
melons successfully. I have been quite emphatic on this 
question of humus, for 1 think that is where W. T.’s 
trouble lies. After the grower has complied with all 
the above conditions, take from 200 to 300 pounds acid 
phosphate and half that amount of muriate of potash, 
mix together and broadcast it on one acre before har¬ 
rowing. If soil is in a good state of cultivation, 300 
pounds, 200 of one, and 100 of the other, per acre, is 
ample. Harrow this in thoroughly. When ready to 
plant seed use in bills some nitrogenous fertilizer. I 
prefer a mixture of nitrate of soda and dried blood, or 
fine dry ground fish scrap, instead of blood, mixed, to¬ 
gether equal parts by weight. Of this mixture use 
from 100 to 150 pounds per acre in the hills, and mix 
thoroughly with the soil before planting the seed. 
When plants have from four to six natural leaves side- 
dress with nitrate of soda, using from 150 to 175 pounds 
per acre, and plow it in. At last tending, or when 
vines are from two to four feet long, side-dress again, 
using this time some organic, form of nitrogen, such as 
dried blood, fine dry ground fish scrap, or high-grade 
tankage. I have had very good success with either fish 
or blood. I like an organic form of nitrogen for this 
last dressing, because it gives up its plant fo >d more 
slowly, therefore lasts through the whole picking sea¬ 
son. My object has always been to feed the plant from 
start to finish in such a manner that it may have no 
excuse for not growing under almost any conditions of 
weather. Another very important point in growing 
melons is good, pure seed of strong vitality; such seed 
is worth five times more than what is sold in the open 
market. With good seed, soil well supplied with humus, 
and the above method of fertilization faithfully carried 
out, 1 see no reason why W. 'I', should fail in growing 
melons with commercial fertilizers. c. c. hulsart. 
A WESTERN MAN STARTS EAST. 
I have a 30-acre farm here in central Illinois, and for 
the last 14 years have been engaged in raising small 
fruits, having from 10 to 15 acres in strawberries, rasp¬ 
berries and blackberries. Financial returns have been 
fairly satisfactory except for the year 1805, when the 
frost or freeze of May 13 took everything. Rut I 
find it utterly impossible to obtain satisfactory help to 
carry on a farm of this kind. The farm band here can 
follow the plow or cultivator, but he cannot or will not 
hoe. Then when it comes to the picking we can get 
plenty of pickers, such as they are, but few of them 
are of much account. As a result of these conditions, 
not only myself but my family have to overwork to such 
an extent that conditions have become unbearable, and 1 
am resolved to quit the business after the present sea¬ 
son. We absolutely cannot stand the pace. I want 
to sell this and get a larger place, and engage in general 
farming. But land in this locality is loo high in price 
for one to buy. Tt ranges from $100 to $175 per acre, 
and has risen in price from $15 to $20 per acre every 
year for the last three years. 1 don’t fancy going 
farther west arid this Fall am going to investigate the 
opportunities of Maine and of the Delaware Maryland 
peninsula. I suppose Maine has some rocks and deep 
snows and severe Winters. Delaware, I suppose, has too 
much sand, negroes and mosquitoes. The Inter-Ocean 
recently published a review of the real estate outlook 
from every State in the Union. Of Maine it was said 
“as to farming land there is little to speak of in this 
State,” and of Delaware it was said “farming lands 
proper are of very little account in this State, except so 
far as they are devoted to fruit raising.” 1 hope it is 
not quite so had as that. It was also said in regard to 
Vermont: “along the New York State line there are 
considerable farm lands of fine quality that can be 
bought as low as $10 to $30 per acre," I would like 
more definite information as to just where these lands 
are located. Before locating 1 intend fo spend a month 
or two in looking the Fast over, and I want help in find 
ing the most desirable location. it, 
Illinois. _ 
BUILDING A BRICK SILO. 
1 want to build a silo, and ran uso either brick or pine 
lumber, preferably brick. Can I build a round one, anil 
wh.it thlcknesH should walls be? If l build It round It will 
be 10 feet diameter, !H or 20 feet blgh. Shall I have to use 
bands or hoops, as I would If building one of slaves? What 
will be the difference In cost ; brick $0,50 per 1,000; lumber 
$12 per 1,000. Labor will be same In each ease. I shall 
use cement lloor In either ease. What will be the best 
shape, square or round? I shall have foundations three or 
four feet below surface, so that tlie lift will not be so much. 
Red Springs, N. C. ,s. n. k, 
A good silo can be built of brick. I should say for 
the size you mention a double row of brick would be 
sufficient, making a finished wall nine inches thick, (let 
three-eighths-inch round iron 12 feet long and make two 
hoops, laying in the wall, one about four feet and the 
other eight to It) feet from ground. Make a hook on 
the end of each piece, and have the ends lap by each 
other two inches or more. This will make a very much 
stronger hoop than one upon the outside. Use Port 
land cement for tlie mortar, and he sure the bricks arc 
damp when laid, so that the mortar will not he too 
quickly dried out. The inside, can he plastered with 
cement and sand as fast as laid, and save the expense 
of building a staging. If the silo was to be made very 
much deeper than you mention I would lay three rows 
of brick at least 10 feet from the foundation, making 
the projection upon the outside. I am using doors hung 
upon the outside, and firmly believe they are the best, 
and they can he hling upon this brick silo. Set the 
jambs when laying the wall, using 3 x I stuff, thor 
oughly anchored with rods running into the brick wall 
a foot and upon the four sides. Bevel this jamb for a 
wood door three inches thick; hang with heavy hinges 
and fasten with ordinary icebox fasteners, and you have 
a door always ready, never out of repair, opened and 
shut in a moment, aim no loss of silage. This door can 
he used upon any silo. 
I am unable to figure accurately on account of so 
many local conditions one cannot safely figure upon, 
hut should say this brick silo would cost from 50 to 75 
per cent more than a plank stave silo of pine. I find it 
unwise to place estimates upon work of this kind, he 
cause men vary widely in their ability to do tilings, and 
so what would he high for one man would he low for 
another, and both will decry one’s judgment. This silo 
can he whitewashed with thin Portland cement should 
any small cracks appear in the inside. n. K. coon. 
