HOT WATER SYSTEM FOR HOUSE HEATING 
Simplicity, Efficiency, Durability and Cost. 
WHAT THE SYSTEM IS.—The principle of heat¬ 
ing a building by a central plant (in cellar) by water 
has been in use for a long time. Why heating engineers 
designate the heater or boiler as a “hot water heater” 
is a mystery to me; hot water requires no heating. The 
system is one that follows natural laws, and the closer 
one follows nature in employing water as a means of 
artificial heat the more satisfactory will be the results. 
Water at 32 degrees is in what may be termed its nor¬ 
mal state. Lower the temperature and it expands; raise 
the temperature and it likewise expands, and continues 
to expand to a point up to what is termed the boiling 
point, viz., 212. Beyond that point, if exposed to atmos¬ 
pheric pressure, it cannot be heated, but forms into 
vapor called steam. Therefore we start out with the 
fact that we have a range of about 170 degrees, or in 
other words, the difference between water at the average 
temperature of 50 to the boiling point, 212 degrees. 
Following the natural law, the moment you raise the 
temperature of water it becomes lighter or expands, and 
seeks an outlet by rising and displacing the cooler 
water, which is heavier 
and consequently sinks; 
hence you have started 
circulation. This applies 
to everything in nature, 
air, gas, vapor and the 
like; the hot or lighter 
body uppermost. Having 
started circulation, it fol¬ 
lows that it increases in 
the same ratio as heat is 
applied. Bear in mind 
one fact; that you can¬ 
not increase the heat of 
water beyond 212, so that 
it must now be a con¬ 
ductor of the heat that 
is applied to the vessel 
containing the water, and 
therefore it wifi take the 
heat from the fire 
through the pores of the 
vessel, and either parts 
with them in vapor or 
steam or to the water 
contained in the reser¬ 
voir or radiators. Take 
an ordinary kettle from a fierce or raging fire. If the 
water in the same is boiling, place it on the palm 
of your hand and you will see that the heat has left 
the metal and been taken up b. the water. Here we 
have the fundamental principle of collecting and dis¬ 
tributing the heat units. We must follow natural laws 
and conduct the heat where required, and this we do 
by means of pipes, radiators, coils, etc. The boiler, 
which must be placed at the lowest point, should be 
one that exposes to the action of the fire the largest sur¬ 
face, and to the outer air the smallest surface to prevent 
radiation. A good plan is to enclose the boiler in 
asbestos covering, which will prevent loss of heat to the 
air of the cellar. The capacity of the boiler should be 
more than large enough to supply the different radiators 
without forcing the fire. This is of great importance if 
economy of fuel is to be considered. A little money 
invested in reserve capacity is more than returned in 
lower fuel bills. 
DISTRIBUTION OF THE HEAT.—From the boiler 
pipes called mains are to be run, and the dimensions 
will be determined by the amount of radiation they are 
to supply. As the same amount of water that flows 
from the boiler is to be returned it follows that both 
flow and return pipes should be of same size. All 
branches from main pipes to the radiators should be 
taken from the top of mains, as the hottest water is on 
the upper side. The proper method of heating is to 
place a liberal amount of radiators on the lower floor, 
especially in the main hall, so as quickly to circulate 
the air in first story rooms. It is a good plan to provide 
a liberal amount of radiation for the lower floor, for 
the same laws are in force in reference to warm air in 
the lower part of the building, which is forced to ascend 
and thereby in some measure to help to warm the upper 
floor. If proper judgment is exercised a building of 
two stories can be kept warm by using radiators on the 
lower floor only, if the lower halls are liberally provided 
with radiators. .In selecting radiators be sure to get 
what are known as prime surface, not over 38 inches 
high. What are termed three-column radiators are the 
lowest in price. All radiators are sold by the square 
foot of radiating surface. Valves should be quick¬ 
opening ones, but they are not absolutely necessary for 
the proper working of the system. They are used to 
reduce the circulation of water through the radiator, 
thus cooling the water and reducing the heat. It is 
quite advisable to have a valve on the supply pipe of 
each radiator. Air valves are used at the highest point 
of all radiators for the purpose of allowing the air to 
and demand. The more fire the more heat—less fire, less 
heat. Finally, heating by hot water is the most natural, 
pleasant, safest, economical and efficient, and the nearest 
approach to perfection of any system of artificial heating 
employed by man. F. G. M. 
Mt. Kisco, N. Y. 
An Indirect Hot Water System. 
HOW TO PUT IT IN.—I am asked to describe how 
a farmer would proceed to put in his own heater. First, 
let me draw the attention of those who are saying hot 
water may be best, but that it is so expensive, and that 
hot air is good enough, to the fact that indirect hot 
water heating is hot air heating with its chief fault— 
burning the moist air out so it isn’t fit to breathe— 
eliminated. The only difference is right here: In indi¬ 
rect hot water heating under 10 pounds pressure, which 
readers will recall was what I advocated in my previous 
article, the air never comes in contact with metal at a 
greater temperature than 240 degrees, while with the 
common hot air furnace it passes between metal surfaces 
that are often red hot. If you want the best at the cost 
of the cheapest you will have to devote numerous rainy 
days to the job without charge, and be something of a 
mechanic besides. 
BOILER AND PIP¬ 
ING.—Greenhouse men 
very largely use second¬ 
hand steam boilers, but 
see that you have room 
in your basement to feed 
at one end and clean the 
flues at the other when 
set by the side of the 
chimney. I made a square 
elbow to enter the latter, 
with stovepipe iron and 
copper rivets. The dome 
or highest part of the 
boiler should have one or 
more flow pipes—for or¬ 
dinary farmhouses two 
or three-inch are about 
right—and the bottom of 
tne boiler return pipes 
of same capacity. The 
feed water hole may be 
used by chipping it 
larger if necessary and 
retapping. Pipe taps are 
expensive, so if you bor¬ 
row be careful. The rest of the tools it will be most 
satisfactory to own. You want a good iron vise or 
a regular pipe vise, two adjustable pipe tongs and a 
screw plate and dies, all to match the pipe you are 
using most of, say from one to two-inch. The depart¬ 
ment stores sell these tools as well as pipe and fittings. 
I believe a dull lampblack finish radiates most heat. 
ARRANGING THE PIPES.—We are now ready to 
commence, and as water in heating expands consid¬ 
erably this must be provided for, so we run overflow 
pipe or pipes from the top of the boiler as high as our 
basement will permit, turn to one side and attach an 
inverted tee. From the top of this inverted tee, which 
may be reduced by bushings or reducers, a one-inch 
pip'' is carried upward to the expansion tank. Though 
very simple this tee arrangement is most important, be¬ 
cause being placed at the highest point of the runs of 
pipe it effectually catches and conducts to the expansion 
tank any air or steam that may chance to come from 
the boiler. Where the tank is placed is immaterial, pro¬ 
vided it is higher than any run of pipe it is connected 
with. A good barrel will answer every purpose if out 
of sight. Where the end of the expansion pipe dips 
down over the top of the tank or barrel it is provided 
with a safety valve set at 10 pounds pressure if you 
want to heat your water to 240 instead of 212 degrees 
APPLE WILLIAMS FAVORITE. Fig. 280. 
Deep Crimson, Good Quality; Ripens in Early August. See Ruralisms, Page 638. 
escape where the system is being filled with water. Here 
again nature’s laws are brought in play. No two bodies 
can occupy the same space at the same time, hence the 
air must be forced out so that water can take its place. 
INSTALLING THE SYSTEM.—When the outfit is 
installed it is best to fill it by admitting water at its 
lowest point, thereby forcing the air upwards, the air 
valves to be kept open until water appears at the air 
valve of each radiator and flows into the expansion 
tank, say, to about one-fourth of the height of the tank. 
This tank is only used to allow for the expansion of 
the water in the system—it is the relief of the job. The 
cost of the system can be adjusted to meet the fancy and 
pocketbook of the user. An elaborate system would be 
what is called the “indirect” method (radiators in boxes 
or stacks under the floor with an air supply from outside 
passing through the stack and up into the room by reg¬ 
ister in the floor). The “direct” method, with radiators 
placed directly in the room, is less expensive. By using 
the direct method and following my suggestion in refer¬ 
ence to placing the radiators on the lower floor the cost 
of installing the system in an ordinary farmhouse would 
not exceed $150. As there is no element of danger 
there are no safety valves, gauges, water columns or 
other accessories as are required in the use of steam. 
In working the system simply apply the law of supply 
