1904. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
635 
TREATMENT OF POSTS. 
The durability of fence posts is an important question 
on nearly all farms. Many suggestions have been given 
regarding methods of treatment to increase durability, 
but not many definite results are likely to be available 
to the person who wants them. In rctrellising the vine¬ 
yard at the Rhode Island College in the season of 190.'!, 
it was decided to put some of these methods to a test. 
The vineyard consisted of seven rows, and the posts in 
each one were given a different treatment. Row No. 1, 
untreated; No. 2, charred; No. 3, hot coal-tar; No. 4, 
hot pine-tar; No. 5, lime; No. (5, copperas and lime; 
No. 7, carbolineum. In each row one-half of the posts 
were set top end down, and half bottom end down. 
Some were used whole and some were halved. It is a 
common belief that setting posts with the top end down 
adds to their durability. There is a theoretical reason 
for this, from the fact that as the tree grows the soil 
water passes upward through the outer layers of wood. 
There is some reason to believe that water still passes 
more readily in the same direction after the tree has 
been cut. If so, more moisture may enter a post when 
set bottom end down than when set the other way. 
Even this is not sufficient to prove that the post will not 
last as long. 
Charring the posts, by holding them over a fire until 
the part which is to go into the ground is thoroughly 
blackened and charred, is a method which has long been 
in use in this part of the country, and one which is 
believed to give good results. From the standpoint of 
treatment, this is one of the most satisfactory methods, 
since the operation is very simple and inexpensive. A 
fire between two logs or rows of stones, upon which the 
posts may rest, being frequently turned, allows the work 
to be done quickly and with very little trouble. Fig. 2S4 
represents this method of treatment, excepting the fire, 
which is there, though the camera fails to show it. 
Painting with hot coal-tar is another comparatively 
simple and inexpensive method. When warm, the coal- 
tar is thin enough to spread easily. This is a common 
method of treatment. Hot pine-tar is troublesome to 
apply. It takes fire so easily, and is so thick and sticky, 
even when hot, that it is difficult to handle. The method 
of treating with lime which was used is one which was 
recommended in The R. N.-Y. several years ago by 
Henry Stewart, if I remember correctly. The plan is to 
dig a hole deep enough to take in the posts as far as 
they will enter the soil when set. Lime is placed in the 
bottom of the hole and about the posts after they are 
packed in the hole standing on end. Water is then 
added to slake the lime, the theory being that the heat 
developed in the slaking will drive out the moisture 
of the post, and that, as it afterwards cools, some of 
the lime will be drawn into the pores, thus impregnating 
the wood. Perhaps further experience might show this 
method to be more easily carried out, but in the single 
trial which we made we found it both troublesome and 
expensive. Nearly a barrel of lime was used to treat 20 
posts, and that amount was not enough, 
since it did not swell as much as was an¬ 
ticipated, and did not reach high enough 
on the posts. Fig. 283 illustrates this 
treatment. 
The treatment with copperas and lime 
consisted in allowing the ends of posts to 
soak over night in a solution of copperas, 
and then allowing them to stand in lime 
water for a time, after being removed 
from the copperas. The treatment with 
carbolineum, one of the proprietary wood 
preservatives on the market, was a simple 
operation. At Summer temperature this 
material is thin enough to be quickly ap¬ 
plied with a brush. Of course nothing 
can he said regarding the value of these 
different kinds of treatment, but so far as 
labor and expense are concerned, charring 
has the advantage, the use of hot coal-tar 
coming next in order. fred w. card. 
Fair for a month, and will continue a month longer. 
Here is a sample of letters 1 get from Sam. H. Dixon, 
General Superintendent of the Texas exhibit: “Your 
beautiful Elbertas, plums and grapes came to hand. The 
Elbertas are the most beautiful I ever saw, firm and 
very highly colored. Though full ripe they look like 
they would keep forever.” E. W. Kirkpatrick, President 
of the National Nurserymen's Association, who is assist¬ 
ing Mr. Dixon, writes: “Thanks for the beautiful fruit 
you are sending. We all have decided that your 
Lampasas peaches and other fruits are much finer in 
flavor, color and keeping qualities than the fruits sent 
from any other county in Texas. The peaches arc extra 
fine.” Again, under date of August 3, he says: “Your 
TREATING POSTS WITH LIME. Fig. 283. 
peaches came to hand 0. K. I have compared your 
Elbcrta with all the other Elbertas up to date, and I 
know that there have been none from East Texas, North 
Texas, nor from any part of the whole country that 
will equal the Lampasas Elbcrta in color, quality and 
value. They would top the market anywhere and bring 
a fancy price.” 
The advantages of a close-mown sod, especially for 
the peach, are many. Instead of depleting the soil by 
Hooding rains, as often occurs with cultivation, it pre¬ 
serves and enriches it. The grass clippings and fallen 
leaves, never blown away, furnish abundant humus by 
their decay to set free all tire plant food required at no 
STRINGFELLOW ON PEACHES. IB 
Referring to the remark in Hope Farm 
Notes in a recent issue, that “somehow 
apples seem better adapted to sod culture than the 
peach,” that depends on the kind of treatment given. 
The method of allowing the grass to grow the whole 
Summer with only one cutting, as practiced successfully 
by Mr. Hitchings and thousands of other growers for 
years on the apple, certainly does not suit the peach. I 
recommend in the “New Horticulture” to cultivate the 
peach orchard with the mowing machine three or four 
times before the fruit ripens, never allowing the grass 
to get over six inches, better less. Four years ago I 
planted 50 peach and plum trees around my house here, 
in a compact Bermuda sod lawn, digging holes one foot 
deep and about four inches wide. The trees were 
closely pruned, root and top, and well rammed. The 
lawn has been regularly mown about once every 10 days. 
I have been sending fruit by the crate to the World’s 
DRAINAGE AND TILE NOTES. 
Size of Main and Method of Digging. 
What size of main should be used for a given acreage? 
What is the best and cheapest way to dig the ditch? Have 
you used the Larimer ditching plow? H. w. 
Holley, N. Y. 
The size of the mains for a given acreage will depend 
upon the amount of fall that can be obtained. Where 
the fall is not less than three inches to 100 feet, accord¬ 
ing to Elliott: A three-inch tile will drain five acres; 
a four-inch, 12 acres; a five-inch 20 acres; a six-inch, 40 
acres; a seven-inch, 60 acres. In a long line of mains 
it is advisable to lay a larger size next to the outlet and 
a smaller size towards the higher portions of the tract 
to be drained. It is better to err on the side of having 
tile too large than too small, especially in flat lands 
where one has to work closely to get any drainage at all. 
Water is longer in running out, and sediment is more 
apt to accumulate. As to economical methods of open¬ 
ing the ditches, a large plow may be used to advantage 
if the land is plowable. Stake out the course of the 
ditch and plow a land say six feet wide; then replow 
once or twice, leaving the finishing furrow for the 
beginning of the ditch. In this manner the ditch may 
be made nearly V/ 2 foot deep to start with; then with 
a narrow tile spade throw out the soil to the desired 
depth, straightening the irregularities of the plow furrow 
in the operation. The opening may be made as narrow 
as a person can stand in, one foot in front of the other. 
It will pay to have special tools with which to sink the 
ditch and to finish the bottom to receive the tile.' I have 
had no experience with the ditching machine mentioned, 
or with any other. Still, I do not see why such a ma¬ 
chine cannot be made practicable, and, no doubt, it will 
be, if it has not already been done. 
R. N.-Y.—In former years our correspondents have re¬ 
ported success with the Larimer plow. 
What Depth for Main Ditch ? 
I would like to know how deep to dig the main ditch. 
The land is very wet in the Spring; so wet I cannot work 
it in season to plant. I would like to know what to put 
around the joints to keep out the dirt? Is there a collar to 
put round each joint? I thought if I could get rid of the 
surplus water I could grow onions, as the land is quite rich 
Can you tell me where I can send some of the soil for 
analysis? j. j. p. 
Tilton, N. II. 
Flow deep to dig a drainage ditch in any special case 
cannot be definitely stated without an examination or 
survey on the ground. The amount of fall available and 
the nature of the soil and subsoil must be taken in 
account. In a general way it may be said that the 
deeper the ditch the more land it will drain, and that 
three feet is a good depth on the average. If the surface 
is uneven the ditch may have to be considerably deeper 
at places, but should not be so shallow as to invite 
trouble from freezing. If there is a layer of hardpan 
or impervious clay nearer the surface than the general 
average mentioned for depth, there is no 
use in digging the ditch any deeper than 
such impervious stratum. In such cases 
drains will have to be laid closer together. 
Under all ordinary circumstances it is not 
necessary to have collars on the joints of 
the tile, nor will anything else be needed 
to protect them if the tile are laid with 
care so as to make the joints reasonably 
tight. The groove on the bottom of ditch 
which is made to receive the tile should be 
made straight and regular. Any depres¬ 
sions should be carefully filled up. If tile 
are well laid they will remain in line with¬ 
out collars unless there are very soft or 
quick-sandy spots. grant davis. 
CHARRING POSTS BEFORE SETTING. Fig. 284. 
expense. It preserves the surface roots, which are abso¬ 
lutely essential to the health, longevity and regular pro¬ 
ductiveness of the tree. It enables the grower to market 
his crop under conditions that often render it impossible 
in a cultivated orchard. The period of maturity, unlike 
the apple, is so short that continued heavy rain for a 
day or two at that time, converting the soil into a bog, 
means heavy loss. Under such conditions of weather it 
greatly facilitates spraying, besides rendering the fruit 
much less liable to rot when ripening. It is well known 
that cultivation induces rot and injures the keeping and 
shipping* qualities of all fruits. Last, it is cheaper, as 
no Winter or Spring plowing has to be done, and a 
six or eight-foot mowing blade can be run three or even 
four times at less cost than a cultivator. 
H. M. STRINGFELLOW. 
ROUND OR HORSESHOE TILE. 
Several loads of tile have been unloaded 
here and taken from one to five miles out 
into the country to be used since last Fall. 
All these tile were round, and nearly all 
well burned. But none of them was glazed. 
The only glazed tile seen here are such 
as are termed sewer pipe, and in two-foot 
lengths. Few of the drain tile are in two-foot lengths, 
and they, of the larger sizes, seven and eight-inch, and 
probably larger. I have never, in over 20 years’ expe¬ 
rience, used horseshoe tile; in fact, it has been longer 
than that since any have been made in this section. I 
laid tile over 20 years ago with flat bottoms, but even 
they with the horseshoe tile have gone out of date. 
I do not think horseshoe tile could be given away here, 
and if they could, ditchers could not be induced to lay 
them. In a section of country a few miles from here 
they were made and used for a time, but as soon as the 
flat-bottomed tile came in use they passed out of dale, 
and practical usefulness as compared with the others. 
A horseshoe tile is in two pieces, a flat piece for the bot¬ 
tom and a half round or oval piece for the top. In lay¬ 
ing them two flat pieces are first laid in the bottom 
and the joint broken by the top piece. j. M. j. 
