1904. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
667 
WHY ALFALFA TURNS YELLOW. 
I have been much interested in your slaort articles on 
Alfalfa, but none of them thus far has touched upon one 
point that is perplexing me in growing this legume. It is 
my first experience with Alfalfa, and I thought possibly 
you might be able to answer a question or two to my satis 
faction and profit. The soil upon which I have sown the 
Alfalfa seed is a very dark sandy loam. For several years 
back it has grown strawberries, and Red clover has 
been plowed under as a green manure. Last Fall 
1 turned over a stiff growth of weeds and left the 
ground rough during the Winter. This Spring I harrowed it 
several times with Clark's double-action Cutaway harrow, 
top-dressed it with 125 pounds nitrate of soda. <>00 pounds 
acid phosphate and 400 pounds muriate of potash. The fer¬ 
tilizer was harrowed in with a spike-tooth harrow. I then 
sowed 25 pounds of Alfalfa seed on the acre and harrowed 
it lightly. This was done April 23. The seed started well 
and came up thickly, but when the plants were about six 
inches high the weeds passed them. When the weeds were 
about 12 to 15 inches high I mowed them, cutting about 
four inches from the soil. This seemed to check the weed 
growth, but the Alfalfa plants have turned yellow and appar¬ 
ently stand still. The weeds were cut in June. Can yon 
tell me whether this is the nature of the plant to turn yel¬ 
low after cutting, or whether I shall have to do something 
further to help the growth along? E. J. n. 
Long Island. 
The cause of the Alfalfa showing the yellow feather 
is without doubt due to the heavy growth of weeds, 
which took away the soluble plant food and also shaded 
the young, delicate plants. Young Alfalfa naturally 
grows very slowly at the start. The remedy here is to 
cut the field frequently during the first Summer, at 
least once a month. The cutter bar can be run much 
closer to the ground without injury to the Alfalfa plants 
than it is generally supposed. In fact, 
close cutting, instead of injuring the 
young plants, causes them to branch and 
put forth a new growth. 1 have fre¬ 
quently seen the mower used for this 
purpose, set nearly as low as for ordi¬ 
nary mowing, with good results. If 
set too high the weeds will sprout up 
again in a few days and be as destruc¬ 
tive as before. In general, close cut¬ 
ting is more destructive to weeds and 
of greater benefit to the Alfalfa. With 
this treatment, Alfalfa should gradually 
recover. 
Yellow and sickly Alfalfa may be 
due to a lack of some of the elements 
of fertility, particularly nitrogen. Some 
readily soluble nitrogenous fertilizer, as 
nitrate of soda, applied two or three 
times during the season would remedy 
the trouble if a lack of nitrogen was 
the cause, but it would be too expen¬ 
sive. The soil probably needs inocu¬ 
lating with the bacteria which live on 
the roots of Alfalfa. This can be done 
by adding soil from an Alfalfa field, or 
using the cultures sent from the De¬ 
partment of Agriculture at Washing¬ 
ton. I have yet to find any yellow Al¬ 
falfa where nitrogen bacteria are pres¬ 
ent as shown by the nodules on the 
roots. If Alfalfa is vigorous, it will 
often overcome diseases and other ad¬ 
verse conditions. Yellow and unhealthy 
Alfalfa may be caused by an acid soil. 
It is a desirable practice to make a 
liberal application of lime at the time of seeding; nitro¬ 
gen-gathering bacteria cannot grow in an acid soil. 
It occasionally happens that heavy clay soils become 
hard and baky when Alfalla is seeded. Under these 
conditions growing plants will often turn yellow. The 
disk harrow is sometimes used to advantage in such 
eases. A loose layer of soil is formed on the surface, 
and further hardening prevented. Young Alfalfa on 
soil that is not well drained will often turn yellow. 
While Alfalfa likes plenty of water applied by means of 
irrigation or abundant rains, it will not grow well with 
“wet feet.” 
The weed known as dodder or love vine often does 
great damage in an Alfalfa field, t his is parasitic. I he 
stems are leafless and look like reddish-yellow threads. 
As soon as the young dodder plant touches a leaf stem 
or stalk of the Alfalfa it twines around it and becomes 
closely fastened to the stalk by means of numerous 
suckers, which enter the tissues of the host plant. I hese 
suckers draw from the Alfalfa the soluble food mate¬ 
rials. as oils and sugars. The only practicable remedy 
after this pest has become established is to mow the 
Alfalfa in early Summer, before the dodder begins to 
bloom, and to burn it where it lies. This will completely 
kill the dodder without injuring the Alfalfa. Dodder 
cannot be kept down by mowing because it is usually 
attached to the Alfalfa stalks just above the surface of 
the ground. In some of the Southern States Alfalfa is 
attacked by root rot. A field which becomes infected 
with this disease would better be plowed under, as it 
will never make a reasonably satisfactory showing under 
such conditions. C- ?• 
ALFALFA AND QUACK GRASS . 
July 4 I celebrated upon a small piece of land, sowing 
Alfalfa. Inoculated soil from an old field was used, 
leaving a check plot. To-day, August 11, I have a stalk 
17 inches long. This is somewhat above the average; 
it is growing about three-fourths of an inch each day. 
On August 13 I found many plants upon the inoculated 
area with large nodules upon the roots, while upon the 
check plot not one was found. I think it quite remarka¬ 
ble to find them so soon after sowing. About two- 
thirds of the field was manured in the Spring. It was 
quickly noticeable that this portion was fast growing 
away from the other. We put on at once at the rate 
of 1,000 pounds high-grade complete fertilizer per acre. 
This was done July 27. There is no difference in 
growth now. Frequent rains have made top-dressing 
with commercial mixtures quickly effective, which 
would not be the case in a dry season. 
August 4 I sowed another piece of Alfalfa upon what 
was in the Spring a severe case of Quack grass. Fre¬ 
quent cultivation had reduced the entire mass of stems 
and roots which it had when first plowed in the Spring 
to entire decomposition. The wet weather had, of 
course, added to the labor of killing the stuff, but from 
this extra labor and wet soil had come complete decay, 
and the field had the appearance of a garden ready for 
fine seeds. The turned furrow would fall in each direc¬ 
tion, and yet it is so hard to make people believe that 
this grass can be conquered. I do not think there is a 
question at the institutes that causes so much doubt and 
amusement as an effort to convince that Quack grass 
NATURAL SIZE. Fig. 297. See Ruralisms, Page G70. 
can be subdued. It surely cannot be quickly and speed¬ 
ily done, no matter how much labor is employed, because 
of the intense root vitality. A field might be covered 
with teams and disk harrows for a week, and then 
planted or sown only to find in time of frequent showers 
that each short piece of root was still an active force. 
The repeated cultivation often enough to prevent leaf 
growth until the life of the root has departed is the 
only effectual method. This may take a longer or 
shorter period, according to the season, activity of the 
owner, and the adaptability of the soil to the plant. Our 
sandy loam is ideal. In fact, do you know of anything 
that will not become thrifty upon this soil if filled with 
available plant food? Loose, open, warm and con- 
; enial. these soils will be more productive of weed 
growth also, for the same reason. On account of its 
loose texture, small seeds will germinate at a greater 
depth. Quack roots do not like clay, and rarely do they 
thrive in it until it has by introduction of organic 
matter become a loose clay loam. 
I received a letter of inquiry from Prof. Stone, of Cor¬ 
nell. not long ago, saying that a grower of late cabbage 
had found it most effectual to keep a quacky piece fallow 
as i have mentioned, and then set to cabbage. The con¬ 
stant cultivation would increase the efficiency of the 
soil, and so nearly kill the Quack that the ordinary 
care of the crop would suffice to complete the task. 1 
am not a cabbage grower, but could see at once that the 
principle was right. There is always a noticeable effect 
upon the moisture-holding power of land thus treated. 
Cultivation, as all know, makes for moisture retention, 
and in this case the soil becomes doubly fortified with 
decaying humus and its ability to hold moisture. Dry 
weather does not affect a pile of manure if it has orig¬ 
inally enough water to start decomposition. Yes. Quack 
can be conquered, and then the satisfaction of seeing the 
succeeding crop grow. h. e. cook. 
IS THE WIRE INFERIOR? 
The letters on page 645 on the wire fence problem 
must certainly interest a large number of your readers. 
I have also read editorial, and note of fence manu 
facturer, and must say that I believe you are both in 
error as to your conclusions as to the cause of the wire 
rusting so early in the life of the fence. Of course wire 
heavily galvanized would be more protected than that 
thinly coated, but so long as the wire itself is made as 
all manufacturers are now making it, no amount of gal 
vanizing will make it last 25 or 50 years, as wire made 
a quarter century ago would do. The wire purchased 
25 years ago that some of your readers speak of was 
of iron—most of that purchased in the last seven or 
eight years is made either of Bessemer or open-hearth 
steel. The process of making it is much cheaper than 
making it of iron. The very nature of this steel, that 
is, the process of manufacture, is such that it begins to 
rust and decay as soon as exposed to the atmosphere. 
There is an old rail fence on our place, the corners of 
which have a locust stake driven on either side and 
these tied near the top with common black baling wire, 
and the top rail is laid on top of this wire tie. This 
fence has been made 25 years, and yet a heavy person 
may stand or jump on the top rails, but cannot break 
this old black wire. About six years ago we made an¬ 
other fence of galvanized woven wire 
fencing; to-day there is very little left 
but the line wires. I think this is con¬ 
clusive evidence that the life of the 
fence depends not so much on the gal¬ 
vanizing as it does on kind of wire 
under the coating. This applies as well 
to iron and steel roofing. If one can 
be sure of getting a good quality of 
iron roofing it will last longer unpaint¬ 
ed than steel roofing well painted, black 
plate in each being considered. 
Maryland. frank r. reid. 
1 was much interested in the article 
about wire fences rusting out so 
quickly as now made. A tinner here 
tells me the trouble with the tin is that 
the sheets are made of Bessemer steel 
instead of old-fashioned malleable iron, 
as formerly made. This cheap steel 
rusts very quickly and will not last if 
exposed to the weather. Wire fences 
and wire screens for doors and win¬ 
dows are made of the same material 
as I understand it. h. w. 
Clinton, Ill. 
We are with you in support of your 
fight for better fence wire materials. 
We have galvanized wire fence erected 
over 20 years that is as bright as the 
new wire we get now. On the ends 
and'where it has been spliced, the gal¬ 
vanizing has worn off, but the bare 
wire shows little or no signs of rust, 
while new wire begins to rust before 
■ one gets it erected, and at the end of 
two or three years it is completely covered. Is it the 
galvanizing, or was it iron wire instead of steel? The 
same may be said of steel rural mail boxes, steel nails, 
etc. If a board fence is built with steel cut nails the 
boards will begin to drop off in four or five years, the 
nails having rusted away. We wish you success in yonr 
undertaking, and feel assured that you will be assisted 
by all who have use for wire fencing. r. u. k. 
New Jersey. _ 
CONNECTICUT DEER.-—Deer are becoming so numerous 
in certain sections that they are a source of annoyance. 
Corn, potato vines, the foliage of fruit trees and herbage of 
all kinds seem to appeal especially to the palate of this lively 
animal, and as their numbers are increasing it would seem 
to he necessary for the Legislature to provide some method 
of compensation for the person who suffers damage from 
their depredations. Among the first complaints of the dam¬ 
age occasioned by deer was one by .1. II. Male last season. 
Mr. Hale noticed that the animals were taking great liberties 
with the fruit trees and vines upon his extensive farm. The 
number of deer has increased since then according to reliable 
reports and the eastern section of Glastonbury seems to be an 
especially favorable place for these wards of the State to 
increase. The deer are very cautious not to invade the cul¬ 
tivated fields when they see any person in the immediate 
vicinity, but at the Long Farm they carry on their destruc¬ 
tive work in the day time. The selectmen are supposed by 
some to be the proper persons to whom to appeal for com¬ 
pensation for the damage done by deer, but the town is not 
liable for damage occasioned by these animals, and as the 
Legislature has given the deer the freedom of the State and 
has made no provision for paying their bills the animals will 
continue to enjoy an uninterrupted vacation upon such easy 
and inexpensive terms that even Russell 'sage might approve 
of their outing. The aggrieved landholdei must look for 
additional legislation upon this subject before he can hope 
for remuneration. It is not unlikely, however, that if the 
deer continue to do damage to the farmers the deer popula¬ 
tion will decrease even at the risk of fines of $100 or impris¬ 
onment for not more than 30 days. There seems to be a 
sentiment in favor of permitting the law to remain as at 
present upon the statute book if a proper means for com¬ 
pensating the damage caused by tbe deer is provided by the 
Legislature, though it is by no means certain that the town 
will care to assume this additional burden. Hartford Cour- 
ant. 
ROYAL SWEET SULTAN/CENTAUREA IMPERIALIS. LESS THAN 
