THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
April 16 
332 
CARE, HANDLING, AND FEED OF 
CHICKS. 
With the first pipping of an egg In 
my Incubators I start the lamps under 
the brooders that they may be warmed 
up and regulated to 90 degrees before 
the chicks are ready to be put in. The 
chicks are left in the incubators for 30 
to 3G hours after hatching, my (Cyphers) 
incubators having a nursery under the 
egg trays for that purpose. I cover 
floor of brooders with sifted sand half 
an inch deep, laying in a supply in the 
Summer for that special use. Taking 
the chicks to the brooder house in a 
big market basket with a warmed 
woolen cloth over them I take out the 
front of brooder and put the chicks in, 
and now they have their first feed of 
bard-boiled eggs chopped very fine, and 
purposely scattered on the clean sand, 
so the chicks will get some grit in their 
gizzards with their first meal. Some so- 
called experts do not favor hard-boiled 
egg, but my experience is that chicks 
will eat it in preference to anything else 
that can be set before them. I always 
save all the infertile eggs for that use. 
With the first little “cheep” that 
shows they are getting too cool I take 
a board half an Inch shorter than inside 
width of brooder, and press the chicks 
all back through the cloth strips into 
the hover, leaving the board leaning 
against hover to prevent chicks getting 
out. This board is 1% or two inches 
narrower than the height of hover, so 
that by turning up two or three of the 
cloth strips there will be sufficient ven¬ 
tilation. A better scheme would be to 
make a frame and cover it with fine net¬ 
ting to keep chicks in. I feed the first 
two or three days about once in three 
hours, the third day making the feed 
half rolled oats (the common oatmeal) 
and half boiled egg, chopped together. 
The chicks will pick out all the egg first, 
but if you do not overfeed will eat the 
oatmeal too. To have the chicks con¬ 
tinue to thrive, overfeeding must be 
avoided until they are five or six weeks 
old. After they are a week old we bake 
a cake of wheat bran and cornmeal, 
with a teaspoonful of baking powder to 
make it light and feed fine cracked corn 
also. As soon as frost gets out of the 
ground and worms come up I make it a 
point to dig some worms nearly every 
day for them. It is live food, and the 
tenderest meat to be got. But the chicks 
will be made sick if too many are fed. 
Green food of some kind is almost a 
necessity after they are three weeks 
old. I put a small cabbage head in 
their yards, and they will eat it clear 
to the stump. 
In from three to five days, according 
to the weather, I let them out of the 
brooder and begin educating them to go 
up the incline and into their hover when 
cool. Some will huddle in a corner and 
get chilled unless watched and pushed 
in. After four or five weeks they ought 
to be let outdoors, if the ground is bare. 
I have seen chicks in a neighbor’s $300 
brooder house get pale and so weak 
they could not stand up, until he put 
brooders and all outdoors on the grass 
and in less than a week they were all 
right. I make a cheap drinking fountain 
by cutting slits in a tin can half an inch 
apart, bending in the slit part, filling the 
can with water and placing on top of 
it the cover of a larger can, then by in¬ 
verting the two you have a self-feeding 
fountain that the chicks cannot get wet 
in, and that it may not get upset put a 
stone on top of can, for dampness in a 
brooder is to be most carefully avoided. 
My brooders are cleaned out twice a 
week, all the sand scraped out; then 
with a fine sieve sift out all the drop¬ 
pings and spread the sand around again. 
If it is clean sand—not earth—it may be 
used many times before there will be 
any bad odor. geo. a. cosgrove. 
Connecticut. 
SHEEP IN AN APPLE ORCHARD. 
I have a 10-acre block of apple and plum 
three years old and would like, If at all 
practicable, to use the field for sheep pas¬ 
ture, sowing Dwarf Essex rape for that 
purpose. Will it be necessary to wrap 
the trees, and will the sheep be likely to 
bother low-headed trees by trimming 
limbs? Will it be dangerous to spray with 
Bordeaux three or four times, using Paris- 
green, say twice? Paris-green can be 
omitted if necessary. o. m. p. 
Duplain, Mich. 
I would by no means think of mak¬ 
ing a sheep pasture of a three-year-old 
orchard. Evidently the intent is to cul¬ 
tivate, judging from the rape. This is 
all right and will doubtless be for the 
benefit of the trees. But I would sow, 
with the rape, Cow-horn turnips and 
Red clover. This will shade the ground 
during the latter part of the season and 
furnish a good amount of vegetable 
matter and available plant food as well, 
if plowed under the next Spring. This 
should not be followed too long as the 
tendency would be to produce too much 
wood growth. If the idea is to get 
something off the land before the trees 
come into bearing, better plant corn be¬ 
tween the rows and fertilize well. The 
sheep will surely destroy the trees, even 
if wrapped around with fine mesh 
chicken wire, unless stakes were set 
around each tree so as to keep them 
away from the branches. They will trim 
the trees most effectually. I have seen 
them put their front feet on the racks 
and so reach up to limbs that they could 
not otherwise get. Sufficiently to pro¬ 
tect them would cost too much, for what 
little benefit was received. It would be 
dangerous to use even Bordeaux Mix¬ 
ture where the sheep would eat the 
leaves. The salty vitriol attracts them. 
If the trees need either a fungicide or 
poison it should be used. e. v. a. 
When you strike a stubborn case of 
Spavin, Ring Bone. Curb, Splint or 
any other form of lameness, use 
KENDALL’S 
SPAVIN CURE. 
Men who have used it all these long years 
assert that it is infallible in the treatment 
of these diseases of the horse. You need 
not take our testimony—take theirs. 
Ei.ktok, S. I)., March 7, 1902. 
Dr. B. J. Kendall Co., 
Enosburg Kails, Vt. 
GentlemenPlease send me a copy of 
your “Treatise on the Horso and His 
Diseases." My fathercured two spavins, 
one on each of his horses, and used only 
three bottles of Kendall's Spavin Cure. 
I know just what your remedy is. Two 
of my neighbors used the Spavin Cure 
for Curb, and they cured them complete¬ 
ly. The legs are left In good clean shapo 
and there Is no sign of any spavin or 
curb. 1 am using one of the horses on my 
farm to-day and you could not tell that 
he ever had a spavin. 
Verv truly yours, 
GEO KG E SEARS. 
For sale by all druggists. Price 81; six for 85. 
As a liniment for family use it has no equal. 
Ask your druggist for Kendall’s Spavin Cure, 
also "A Treatise on the Horse," the book free, 
or address, 
DR. B. J. KENDALL COMPANY, 
Enosburg Falls, Vt. 
t 
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