1904 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
A TRUSS FOR A BARR. 
A. M., Appleton, N. Y .—I am going to build 
a barn, and the carriage room is to be 
19x30 feet. There has to be a stay of some 
kind in the center. I do not want a post, 
for it will be in the way. Will an under 
truss with the ends 24 inches above the 
center hold with a one or 1%-inch rod to 
sustain it, or would two-inch rods be bet¬ 
ter? If not the above truss, and I put an 
over truss in how high must the points be 
to make it safe? The weight overhead 
will be about 15 tons. The first plan is 
preferable, for it removes all obstructions. 
Ans.—I should put the truss above, 
and the manner of placing it would de¬ 
pend upon condition of affairs above. If 
you would like to have the truss out of 
the way except the iron rod I should 
raise the points of the truss nearly to 
*he roof (see Fig. 147). This will put 
them up out of the way, or if this is not 
as desirable then raise the center of the 
truss two feet above the floor and after 
the same plan as shown in the diagram. 
Be sure that the foot of the truss posts 
AN OVERHEAD TRUSS. Fig. 147. 
are set into the cross beam upon which 
it is to act as a support. In other words, 
do not permit the foot of a truss beam 
to push out against the side post of the 
building. The building will soon spread 
under this pressure. If the cross beams 
are good size, say 10x10 or 9x11 inches, 
and the joists are 3x12, about two feet 
apart, in a building of this size with only 
15 tons weight to support I am of the 
opinion that a spruce stick 9x11 or lOx 
10, whatever might be at hand, laid flat 
upon the floor above directly over the 
cioss beam, with a 4x4 under each end, 
and an inch iron rod bolting up through 
in the center just like the truss, would 
give ample support. I once did this 
same thing in a barn after it was built, 
when an immense weight of hay had 
sprung the heavy beams, by putting on 
two nuts on each end of the rod. I was 
able to bring the beam back to its orig¬ 
inal position, and nearly hold it there. 
Put all trusses where practicable above, 
cut of sight, and out of the way. 
h. e. c. 
The Cauliflower Root-Maggot. 
T. H J., Brookline, Mass .—The root mag¬ 
got destroys my cauliflowers, causing 
much trouble, and I find it very difficult 
to raise these vegetables. I have wrapped 
the stems of the plants with paper, but 
this remedy was of very little good. I 
have almost smothered the roots of the 
plant with “Bug Death,’’ but with no good 
results. X ami told that bl-sulphide of 
carbon is good. Is this remedy of any ac¬ 
count, and is it dangerous to carry round? 
Is it poisonous? Do you know anything 
about it? 
Ans.—T he Cauliflower root-maggot is 
the same as the cabbage, radish and tur¬ 
nip maggot. Bisulphide of carbon is an 
effective killing agent for this maggot, 
but to apply it on a comparatively large 
scale it needs a special instrument, 
known as the McGowen injector, with 
which one can inject a definite amount 
beneath the cabbage roots quickly. 
Again, this substance is not so effective 
on heavy soils, but in sandy loams it is 
one of the best killing agents we have 
against this pest. It is a very ill-smell¬ 
ing liquid, which quickly evaporates on 
exposure to the air. The liquid is in¬ 
jected into the ground and the fumes 
penetrate through the eoil and kill the 
maggots. The fumes are explosive, so 
that it should be handled like gunpow¬ 
der. The best application I found for 
treating cabbages or cauliflowers that 
anyone p&n use without special appara^. 
^45 
tus, is tne following emulsion made of 
one pound of hard, soft or whale-oil 
soap dissolved in one gallon of boiling 
water, into which one pint of crude car¬ 
bolic acid is then poured, and the whole 
mass agitated into an emulsion, which 
will remain in this condition for a long 
time. In treating the plants, take one 
part of this emulsion and dilute with 30 
equal parts of water. If the emulsion 
gets cold and semi-solid use several 
parts of warm water at first. Begin the 
treatment early, soon after the plants 
are set in the field, and repeat it once a 
week or 10 days until June. Simply pour 
it around the base of each plant; per¬ 
haps a teacupful at each place. 
M. V. SUNGERLAND. 
Making a Clean Sod. 
F. C. S., Bronxville, N. Y.—I have several 
acres of land in New Jersey; It Is a very 
light sandy soil. Last year I gave it a 
good lot of horse manure and put in cow 
peas In August. I plowed under the cow 
peas and sowed millet In the Fall. I 
plowed the millet under also. Both the 
cow peas and millet made a very strong 
growth; I had to cut it so that I could 
plow it under. I wish to seed it down this 
Spring to get a good sod. I don’t care so 
much for the grass as for the sod, as I 
need that in my greenhouses. What kind 
of grass w’ould you advise me to sow? 
Could I sow clover in with the grass, and 
should I sow the grass seed alone or seed 
it with oats or some other grain? I also 
wish to give it some wood ashes; should 
I put it on before plowing or after, and 
harrow it in? When seeding down with 
grass or clover, is it necessary to harrow 
the seed in, or only roll ft? Would it hurt 
the grass seed to get in contact with the 
wood ashes? 
Ans. —For producing a tough fibrous 
sod—the kind best liked for lawns and 
for making up greenhouse compost— 
few grasses excel Red-top and Kentucky 
Blue. Equal weights of the seeds of 
these species may be mixed together and 
the mixture sown at the rate of 60 
pounds to the acre. It is a good plan to 
add two or three pounds of Rhode Isl¬ 
and Bent grass for each acre, as it also 
has a tendency to make a close turf. 
Five pounds of White clover or 10 
pounds of Alsike clover may be sown 
separately, and will greatly enrich the 
sod by fixing nitrogen from the air. 
White clover is best for lawns, but Al¬ 
sike, though rather coarse, would do for 
glasshouse compost. The grass and 
clover seed should do best if sown alone 
on well-prepared soil. If oats are used 
as a nurse crop a half bushel would be 
sufficient for an acre. Wood ashes 
should be applied after plowing, and 
well harrowed in before the seeds are 
sown. % Thus applied the seeds will not 
be injured. Grass and clover seeds suc¬ 
ceed best when lightly harrowed in. 
Organic Forms of Nitrogen. 
J. B. O., Troy, Mich.— How long does it 
take for the following forms of fertilizer 
to become available, after they are broad¬ 
cast or drilled in the ground? Dried blood, 
high grade; dried blood, low grade; con 
centrated tankage; tankage (bone); dried 
fish scrap; cotton-seed meal. If I used 
100 pounds per acre, how much of each 
kind would become available the first sea¬ 
son, and how long would it take before it 
would be all available? 
Ans. —No one can answer the question 
exactly. These organic forms of nitro¬ 
gen are changed into nitrates—or the 
form in which plants can use them— 
when heat and moisture are provided. 
You might put dried blood in a warm, 
sandy loam soil and have it available in 
a month, while some of the same blood, 
in a cold, undrained clay, might not be 
available in three months. The season 
and the soil both have much to do with 
it. Where the conditions are equal the 
dried blood and the cotton-seed meal are 
most quickly available. Then would 
come the concentrated tankage, the fish 
scrap and the bone. It would depend 
somewhat upon the amount of oil left 
in the fish scrap, or the grease left in 
the tankage. It is understood that fish 
scrap means fish with the oil pressed 
out of it, and tankage means meat refuse 
with the grease cooked and pressed out. 
It would be impossible to tell what part 
of the nitrogen would be left. Experi¬ 
ments in New Jersey show that in an 
average season all the nitrogen in high- 
grade dried blood was used up the first 
season—at least the crops which fol¬ 
lowed in the next season received no 
benefit from it. 
For Sale 
STEEL FENCING, 
10 c. per rod, while 
it lasts ROCHESTER RADIATOR CO., 
‘'c.i state St . Rochester, N, V 
W ane* E'C'KIPr ** Wholesale. A48-inch 
stock fence Zttoper rod. 
Send for price list and FREE catalogue of Wire 
Fence and full line ot Fence Supplies. 
W. It. MASON & CO., Box 6/ Leesburg, Ohio. 
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THE STRONGESI,TOUGHEST 
colled spring: wire, woven In the most practical way, 
makes tne best fence, and we would really like to 
know how the Pane Fence lacks In either. 
PAGE WOVEN WIRE FENCE CO., Adrian, Michigan. 
NO LOAD TOO BIG 
for our really wonderful, 
solid, Indiana white oak. low 
wood wagon wheels. Vou may 
wreck the (rear or ruin th 
horse, but you can’t overload the 
Goshen Low 
Wa^on Wheels 
Compactly built, of wedge-shaped sections 
(buttcutsonly) of the toughest wood that 
Pfrows—Indiana white oak—riveted and 
bolted together, the whole protected by 
broad steel tires, nothing could be stronger 
or tougher. No road too bad for them. 
They Fit Any Gear 
I Tires need no resetting. Wide tires never out 
through. They carry no mud or sand. Knsy 
on the horse—easy on the man. Complete gear, 
28 and 30 in. wheels ?2.">.00, freight prepaid.. 
Send for special circular. It’s free. 
The Hickox, Mull & Hill Co. 
248 Superior St. 
.Toledo, 0. 
EXTENSION AXLE NUTS 
Cure wabbles and make old buggies run 
like new. quick sellers; very prohtable. 
AjjentH Wanted. Also very a.tractive 
fence machine proposition. 
Hardware Specialty <Jo., Box 43, Pontiac Mich. 
Straight Straw, Rye and Wheat Thrasher 
Combined with Spike-Tooth Oat 
and Wheat Thrasher. 
Our Machine will 
thrash Rye or Wheat 
without bruising or 
breaking the straw, and 
tie it again in perfect 
bundles Can be changed 
In fifteen minutes to a 
spike-tooth Oat, Wheat, 
Buckwheat, Barley and Corn Thrasher with stacker 
attached. Will thrash more grain with less power 
than any Thrasher built Send for catalogue B to 
the GRANT-FERRI8 COMPANY, Troy, N. Y. 
WANIED MEND-A-RIP" 
all kinds of Light and Heavy Stitching 
Does all kinds 
^ nf light and 
heavy rivetln 
Will Savk th* Prig* or iTMLr 
Many Timka a Year. A Perfect 
Hand Sewing Machine and Riveter combined 
To Show It Meaim a Sale. Agent* 
make front $8 to $15 a day. One 
__ agent made |20 first day and write* to hurry 
_ more machine* to him. Write for term* to agent*. 
J. C. Foote Foundry Co., Fredericktown. O, 
WHAT DO YOU SAY?* 
Several hundred thousand farmers say that 
the best investment they ever made was 
when they bought an 
Electric Ha Wagon 
Low wheels, wide tires; easy work, light draft. 
We’ll sell you a set of the best steel wheels 
madeforyour old wagon. Spoke united with 
hub, guaranteed not to break nor work loose. 
Send for our catalogue and save money. 
ELECTRIC WHEEL CO.. Box 88. Quincy, III. 
This 
Mew 
Model 
Rimnv 
Bargains 
Extraordinary 
in Buggies 
This buggy is one of our leaders. Long distance axles, bell collar; 
Armstrong or opeu bead springs, you'- cnolce; reaches ironed full 
length and steel braced, round edge hand set tires; second growth 
selected clear white hickory wheels, Sarven patent or compressed 
band hubs; screwed rims if "wanted ; high bent XXX hickory shafts, 
steel braced; Kernald quick shift couplers, heel braces if wanted ; top 
is buffed leather quarters, heavy rubberroof anil side curtains; sewed 
valanee. Trimmed with fast color broadcloth, whipcord or liber 
leather, high patent leather dash; double silver rail; seat handles, 
boot; full length carpet, toe carpet and pads; front of seat panels 
carpeted; body painted black, handsomely striped gear, Brewster 
green or carmine, or, at the same price, wo give you any color of 
painting, striping or finishing you want. Every buggy as good as 
skill, money and material can make it. 
if you want it and an absolute guaran¬ 
tee for Two Full Years if you buy. For 
tweniy-f our years we have been making 
the best buggies that could he made and 
our great factory and our long experi¬ 
ence are behind our guarantee i hat every 
buggy,carriage or other vehicle wesend 
out is absolutely perfect down to the 
smallest bolt. Every ounce of material 
—J we use is the best that men trained to 
the business can buy. Every piece from 
the largest to the smallest is closely inspected before it is used. We do not make low-grade goods at any price. No”cheap” yoods to sell cheaply, but the 
very best possible goods at the lowest possible prices. No shoddy work, lioimitation materials. Everything genuine end ol. tW >1 quality, file long cold 
winter has made sales drag. We have a large force of skilled workmen that we must keep at work the year around. We have on uand a large stock of ve¬ 
hicle* nnd wo .re going to out loose and lot this stock out at prices that will open the eyes of the buggy-buying public. We have just Issued a. new catalogue 
in which our line Of Buggies. Phaetons. Stanhopes. Surreys, Road Wagons. Spring Wagons, Harness, etc., is shown and described to the last detail. No bet- 
can be made. OUR PRICES CANNOT BE DUPLICATED. Sateprices? 'weselldirect to you as low as the dealei 
can buy at wholesale. We have no agents.and we save you the profits that usually go to the jobber ami his agents. Everything wo mako goes direct from 
our factory to the usor. When you buy a buggy or carriage of us you buy comfort and satisfaction. Everything that goes to make a strong, durable, easy- 
riding. light running, handsome and stylish vehicle will be found in our goods. We couldn't make them better or more durable at any price. Wo ore the 
originators ot t ho thirty days’ trial method of selling buggies and our continued use ot this method shows that our goods are entirely satisfactory. The Two 
•yearn guarantee proves that we are ready to standhehind every sta teme nt wi makv in regard to our goods. We trim and paint o■'r buggies in different 
eolorsand use different kinds of materials in tops and trimmings. WtDPP We want to send you our catalogu even if you do not intend to buy a 
1 we cannot suit your fancy from our regular steefc wo will IlCiC, buggy this year. We want you to know what kind o£ buggies we make. 
paint and trim to your older without extra cost. 
send it free to any oneaskiug for it. Don’t fail to write for it. 
Kalamazoo Carriage &. Harness Co., Box 220, Kalamazoo, Mich. 
