846 
November 26, 
uralisms 
► 
r ▼ ▼» 
NOTES FROM THE RURAL GROUNDS 
Late Sweet Corn. —November 12 may 
not be a record date for late sweet corn 
of fine quality, but we had little hope 
our last planting, July 10, of Large Eight- 
rowed could pull through the frequent 
frosts of an exceptionally chilly October 
and develop to the edible stage. We like 
this variety for last planting for the froSt- 
resisting quality of its thick husks as well 
as for its very rich and agreeable flavor. 
Jt is not of quick growth; either Early 
Evergreen or Egyptian will he ready for 
use before Eight-rowed, if planted to 
make their growth in warm weather, but 
the latter has been with us more reliable 
for “last chance” sowings. Eight-rowed 
has a long, slender ear, well-wrapped 
with husks closely set to the stalk and 
usually so nearly enfolded by a leaf blade 
that the young corn is well protected 
against Autumn frosts, and will go on 
developing after any freeze that does not 
kill the plant outright. The sharp frosts 
of late September came just after the corn 
had tasselled, and while the anthers were 
still shedding pollen. It bleached the 
foliage to some extent, and apparently 
nipped the silk and tassels, hut the ker¬ 
nels had been fertilized two-thirds of the 
length of most ears, and grew slowly to 
table size, notwithstanding several drops 
of temperature to and below the freezing 
point in October. The first ears were 
ready for use October 17. By November 
the foliage was dead and the husks whit¬ 
ened, but the stalks remained green and 
the corn continued to grow, retaining 
nearly its normal high quality. The last 
picking, November 12, was relished as an 
unexpected Summer delicacy in wintry 
surroundings. 
A Long Corn Season. —We grow many 
varieties of sugar corn, but find Golden 
Bantam, Sheffield, Evergreen and Eight- 
rowed all that is needed to cover the en¬ 
tire season from mid-July to freezing No¬ 
vember. A planting of Bantam and of 
Sheffield is made at the same time as 
early in May as the season will allow, 
choosing a warm, dry place. When the 
second leaves are formed, another double 
planting of Eight-rowed and Evergreen 
is in order. This will come about June 
10 in a normal year. Two or three weeks 
later another planting of either Eight- 
rowed or Evergreen and a final “forlorn 
hope” of Eight-rowed July 15 to 25. 
These varieties are all vigorous and re¬ 
liable, free from smut and of the best 
quality to those who do not care for the 
gummy texture of Shoe-Peg or Country 
Gentlemen, either of which may be sub¬ 
stituted for Evergreen as a mid-season 
or main crop variety. Each planting 
should be made as compact as possible, 
that full pollenization be accomplished. 
If 100 hills are needed for a family sup¬ 
ply during the maturity of a particular 
planting it is better to make five rows 
of 20 hills each than two of 50 hills, or 
to string the 100 hills in a single row. 
When two varieties are planted the same 
day as above recommended, choose those 
that ripen in succession. Thus Sheffield 
follows Bantam and Eight-rowed follows 
Evergreen without a break, and the block 
can be cleaned up to be sowed to late 
vegetables or Crimson clover when the 
later kind has been gathered. If seed 
is to be saved it is best to plant the 
varieties separately and as far apart as 
the grounds will allow; some cross-pollen- 
ization may take place if near together, 
though no two of the varieties named tas¬ 
sel quite at the same time, even if in¬ 
cluded in the same planting. 
The Best Lilies to Plant. —The long 
list of lily species and varieties offered in 
bulb catalogues is confusing to beginners 
who wish to grow these lovely flowers in 
a successful, even if limited, way. Very 
few kinds are adapted to garden culture 
in our harsh climate, and they are not the 
ones always recommended by the dealer. 
Lily bulbs deteriorate rapidly when out 
of the soil, and seldom bear transportation 
well. As they reach the purchaser the 
vitality of even the best bulbs is dimin¬ 
ished, and if. as is usually the case, the 
species is not of easy culture, failure is 
sure to follow. The magnificent Auratum 
or Golden-rayed lilies from Japan are very 
enticing to buyers, as immense bifibs can 
now lie had at very moderate prices, but 
repeated experience has shown they are, 
with scarcely an exception, so diseased 
that only a weak growth for a year or two, 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
and a few skimpy blooms, can be expected, j 
Lilium speciosum, especially the varieties 
Rubrum and Melpomene, arc quite certain 
to do well, and in time form magnificent 
clumps. Our native L. superbum, orange 
red, spotted with brown, takes kindly to 
the garden and when well established is 
scarcely excelled in beauty and grace by 
any lily in existence. L. tigrinum splen- 
dens, dark orange-red with purple-black 
spots, is a reliable companion for Super¬ 
bum. It is very brilliant and lasting, but 
not so agreeable in outline as the native 
species. There is a double-flowered form 
of the Tiger lily often planted, but it is 
usually disappointing for its heaviness of 
outline. Lilium Henryi Is a new species 
from western China, of the highest merit 
for garden use. It is hardy and resistant 
to disease, growing five to eight feet high, 
and producing many large, widely-expand¬ 
ed blooms of a rich dark yellow color. 
They are unspotted and beautifully sculp¬ 
tured in the manner of the Speciosum 
lilies. L. Henryi is still scarce, and is of¬ 
fered by only a few dealers at 75 cents 
to $1 each. If another yellow or orange 
variety is needed 1.. pardalinum. the Leop¬ 
ard lily of California, will likely prove 
useful. Unlike most species from the 
Pacific coast, it thrives well everywhere in 
temperate climates. It is earlier in bloom 
than L. superbum, the divisions much re¬ 
flexed. and the color and markings very 
bold and clear. L. tenuifolium grows nat¬ 
urally in Siberia, and is also generally 
successful in the garden. It is a dvvarf, 
early-blooming kind, with finely divided 
foliage and small, bright scarlet blooms, 
not obscured with markings of any 
kind. L. Grayi is another native species, 
closely allied to the common woodland 
L. Canadensis, but is of much easier cul¬ 
ture. The prevailing color is rather dull 
brown or orange. It comes from North i 
Carolina. 
. White Lilies. —The lilies above enu¬ 
merated provide a considerable range of 
color, but white is, so far, lacking. It 
may be had in L. speciosum album, and 
to much better effect in the Annunciation 
or Madonna lily, L. candidum, if healthy 
bulbs can be obtained. Many consider the 
Madonna lily the finest of all; it is every¬ 
where . popular and would be extensively 
cultivated, but a bacterial disease has sd 
weakened stocks throughout the horticul¬ 
tural world that it is no longer reliable. 
The bulbs make a leaf-growth in August, 
after blooming, and should be planted at 
that time, if procurable. Every week of 
delay after the Fall growth starts tells 
heavily on the vitality of the plants, if 
afterwards moved. Lilium longiflorum 
and its variety Harrisii, the common long- 
tubed Easter or glasshouse lilies, are not 
hardy enough to grow in the garden. They 
sometimes live over the first Winter and 
bloom sparingly, but seldom survive long. 
The Californian L. Brownii, a long-tubed 
species, white with purple markings out¬ 
side, is not reliable in the Middle and At¬ 
lantic States. 
Planting the Bulks. —No time should 
be lost in planting lily bulbs after they 
are obtained. It is best to get them under 
the soil as soon as possible. Choose a sit¬ 
uation where water will not stand after 
Winter rains, if possible where light shade 
may be had in the middle of the day in 
Summer, throw out the top soil for a 
depth of seven or eight inches, loosen the 
subsoil, which is best if of gravelly or 
sandy character, for a foot in depth, but 
do not throw it out. The bulbs may now 
be placed in position, about eight inches 
apart, bedding each one in clean sand, if 
procurable. It is a good plan to twist up 
large, open bulbs in tissue paper to close 
the scales and cover with about four 
inches of sand or very loose top soil, over 
which may be sifted the best of the top 
soil first removed until the surface level 
is reached. The paper soon decays and 
leaves the bulbs in compact form. Tf the 
subsoil is damp and heavy each bulb may 
be set on the bottom of a two or three- 
inch earthen flower pot placed upside 
down on the sand to assist in drainage. 
The space in the pot under the bulb will 
collect water that might settle about it 
and cause decay. No animal manure 
whatever should be used. If the soil is 
very poor some wood ashes and a trifle 
of dissolved phosphate rock may be 
worked in the subsoil so that it cannot 
come in contact with the bulbs before roots 
are thrown out. If manures seem to be 
necessary they can he applied as top- 
dressings after the plants have come up in 
Spring. For Winter protection a slight 
layer of litter, free from manure, covered 
with old boards or boxes to keep out 
heavy rains, is all that is likely to be 
needed. w. v, F. 
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