1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
i9 
and rear doors already mentioned, the first floor has 
three windows opening to the rear, one over the door, 
and two in front, one on each side of the door, and 
two in front, one on either side of the door. 
The double doors are ceiled outside and inside, 
leaving a two-inch air space in the middle. Between 
the outer and inner doors, is a 12-inch air space. The 
windows are of single sash protected by simple board 
shutters outside ; the inside shutters are about six 
inches thick, with three-inch air space in the middle. 
The sloping jambs narrow outwards. The first story 
is ventilated by 10 x 12-inch openings. These open 
into box flues which pass through the attic to the 
cupolas on the roof. These tubes are opened or closed 
by slides. Air is admitted through the windows and 
doors. The floor of the first story slopes gradually 
to the rear, so that barrels of fruit may easily be 
moved to the rear door, where they are easily loaded 
into the car. From this building, Mr. Wilson has, 
this season, been shipping fruit by the car-load directly 
to Europe, as he also has done in former years. He 
has also rented storage room to others who wished to 
hold their apples, the rent being fixed at a certain 
price per barrel. Tprof.] s. a. beach. 
NEWER VARIETIES OF LIMA BEANS. 
In a test of Lima beans the past season, Thorburn’s 
Challenger proved to be superior in quality and pro- 
ductivess to any others grown by me. Dreer’s is 
nearly as good, and Salem Improved has many good 
points. This is far superior to King of the Garden, 
Large White and Ford’s Mammoth. The Siebert’s 
Early Lima I did not test. It might be of interest to 
know that, in every instance but one, the beans 
planted flat came up quicker and were more vigorous 
than those planted with the eye down. 
In my tests, two hills of each variety 
were planted one with eye down, the 
other planted flat, with the above 
results. silas l. albebtson. 
Long Island. 
As to ray opinion on the value of Sie¬ 
bert’s Early Lima, King of the Garden, 
and Salem Improved, compared with 
other varieties, I would say that 1 
have never tested any of them. I am 
only a small grower. I discarded 
the Large White Lima because my 
market called for a bean having a 
smaller and better filled pod. Thor¬ 
burn’s Challenger seems to meet the 
requirements, and I now grow it ex¬ 
clusively. PATRICK FLANAGAN. 
Westchester County, N. Y. 
For our purpose, a most exacting 
demand as to size, quality, and earli¬ 
ness, we have, after trying many 
of the newer kinds, come back to 
King of the Garden for main crop, 
preceded as to earliness by Thorburn’s 
Challenger. For first early, we grow 
Burpee’s Dwarf as the only one that is 
appreciated, owing to the small size of all the other 
earlies. The above three kinds fill the bill completely, 
and as long as the strains are kept true, we shall have 
no reason to try others except in an experimental 
way. EDWARD O. ORPET. 
Massachusetts. 
King of the Garden and Thorburn’s Challenger are 
my standard varieties, and, while I consider both 
indispensable, I think that, if confined to one variety, 
I would retain King of the Garden, that variety being 
very nearly, if not quite, as prolific as the other, and 
a larger bean. I have selected these two varieties as 
being equal, if not superior, to any of the other varie¬ 
ties in cultivation ; but it would require a more 
thorough and exhaustive test than I have been able 
to give, for me to say positively wherein any one of 
the varieties that I have grown excels the others. 
In my estimation, tests that are only guesswork are 
entirely worthless. I have, for the past two years, 
been making some tests between the best varieties 
of bush Limas, and the two varieties above named, 
with the result that I shall use Burpee’s Bush Lima 
for an early crop and depend upon my pole Limas for 
the main crop. I find that I must have not less than 
four or five sowings of both Burpee’s and Thorburn’s 
bush Limas to insure a succession, and then it is 
doubtful whether I can always send beans to the 
table that are in that fine condition that makes the 
Lima bean one of the most delicious of vegetables. 
The bush Limas partake too much of the character 
of the snap or string bean, viz , cropping. They give 
a crop that nearly all matures at once and then are 
practically finished. In my estimation, they are a 
useful addition to our list of vegetables, but they do 
not displace the pole Limas in the slightest degree. 
Dutchess County, N. Y. i. l. powell. 
APPLE TREES IN A PEACH ORCHARD. 
HOW TO GROW THE FRUITS TOGETHER. 
What is the best method of treating apple trees planted among 
peach trees ? I planted a peach orchard of 6,000 trees, 18 feet 
apart, in 1893, and in 1895, planted apple trees In every other row, 
1,262 trees in all. After I had them planted, I saw an article say¬ 
ing that the peach is death to the apple on account of the peach 
robbing the apple. In order to make sure of the apple being 
supplied with nutriment, I mulched the trees last fall with barn¬ 
yard manure, and they did well. In spring, I turned the manure 
down, and am now doing the same thing, and shall turn it under 
in spring. Am I doing right, or should I use some other fertilizer? 
My soil is black ldam with sand mixed in. I am in the Great 
Blue Ridge peach belt with a western exposure, clay subsoil and 
limestone and sandstone formations. It is new laud, plowed 
with a Barshear plow the third time ; was wild land four years 
ago. The timber—oak, chestnut and hickory—was cut off about 
six years ago. a. d. m. 
Waynesboro, Pa. 
Keep Apples Out of Peach Orchards. 
While I believe that it may be possible to grow ap¬ 
ple trees in the same orchard with peach trees, it is 
my opinion that A. D. M. will have to look well to 
his apple trees, or they will not attain their best de¬ 
velopment. Moreover, he made a mistake in giving 
his peach trees two years the start. He would do 
well to give the apple trees plenty of muriate of pot¬ 
ash and dissolved bone instead of so much nitrogenous 
material as is usually contained in barnyard manure. 
Two quarts of each per year per tree are none too 
much. H. E. VAN DEMAN. 
Give Them Food Enough. 
A. D. M. need have no fears that peach is death to 
the apple, more than any other trees or crop, to which 
the same principle applies, i. e., supply the proper 
fertilizer to the soil to the full amount which the 
former crop exhausts. By following such a method, 
his trees should not fail to bear regular crops, barring 
disease, insects, or unfavorable seasons. Too much 
stable manure might cause too rampant a growth, 
which, in vegetable growth compares with the animal 
economy, where overfeeding is often as unprofitable 
as underfeeding. Commercial fertilizers for orchards 
are preferable to too much stable manure. The fer¬ 
tilizers should contain the largest percentage of 
potash, a fair percentage of phosphoric acid, and a 
small percentage of nitrogen ; the latter is the most 
costly of fertilizer ingredients, and may be most 
cheaply procured by plowing down clover. With this 
method, any orchard should continue fruitful and in 
a healthy condition for a reasonable term of years. 
Pennsylvania. h. m. engle. 
Treatment of a Young Orchard. 
From our experience, we would judge that A. D. M. 
need not have any fear that his apple trees will be 
injured by the peach trees growing among them. 
Ordinarily, the clean culture that always should be 
given to a peach orchard, will cause a sufficiently 
vigorous growth to the apple trees among them, until 
they come in bearing. With us, apple trees set among 
peach trees, without the application of stable manure 
or commercial fertilizers, have made a growth of from 
two to three feet each year. By shortening in this 
growth nearly one-half, the trees are strong and 
stocky, with well-shaped heads. The peach trees have 
borne two good crops and failed of one—that of 1896. 
Differences of soil and location may call for differ¬ 
ent treatment. A. D. M. should examine his trees 
frequently, and observe the growth they are making. 
By forcing too strong an annual growth, fruit-bear¬ 
ing will be retarded, and, perhaps, the durability and 
usefulness of the tree lessened. The peach trees are 
old enough to bear a crop of fruit next season. I 
should prefer to withhold the stable manure this 
winter, and apply about four or five pounds of ground 
bone around each tree. Next spring, if the trees 
bloom and indicate a crop of peaches, I should apply 
four or five pounds of high grade sulphate or muriate 
of potash to each tree. If too late to apply the bone 
this winter, I would make an application of bone and 
potash early next spring. It is more economical to 
sow each separately than to mix before sowing. If 
the trees on any part of the orchard are not, at any 
time, making a satisfactory growth, a dressing of 
stable manure may be given to those trees only. This 
spread evenly around the trees to the distance of 
eight feet, or over the entire surface, is better than 
applying thickly close to the tree. Clean, shallow 
culture should never be neglected ; I deem it of more 
importance to an orchard than manure or fertilizer. 
Orange County, N. Y. w. D. B. 
Suggested by a Western Man. 
I think that it is a mistake to plant apple among 
peach trees, for two reasons, viz., the apple and 
peach do not require the same methods of cultivation 
and fertilization, and with ordinary orchard manage¬ 
ment, a few crops of peaches impoverish the soil, and 
the apple trees become stunted and-diseased, and never 
produce satisfactory crops. But now that A D. M. 
has his trees started together, the question follows, 
What is best to do under the circumstances? While 
I should not have applied the barnyard manure on 
this new land at all, still the management up to this 
time isn’t bad. But don’t use any more manure ! It 
isn’t the best thing to use for trees that will soon 
begin fruiting, neither is it the most economical fer¬ 
tilizer, even though it cost nothing but the hauling 
and handling. The cheapest source 
of nitrogen is clover and cow peas 
grown upon the orchard, and turned 
under at the proper season. Use 
acidulated phosphate rock for phos¬ 
phoric acid, and wood ashes or muri¬ 
ate of potash, for potash. In mixing 
the acid phosphate and potash, use 
about four pounds of the former to 
one of the latter. In applying this 
mixture, use from (100 to 1.200 pounds 
per acre, thoroughly incorporating 
it with the surface soil, and dis¬ 
tributing it evenly all over the or¬ 
chard. I would not use less than 600 
pounds annually, and as much more 
as I felt able to apply. I would in¬ 
crease the application when the or¬ 
chard begins to bear. The peach trees 
will need feeding as well as the 
apples, and the more liberally they 
are fed, the less will be their tendency 
to impoverish the soil and injure the 
apple trees. A great many fruit grow¬ 
ers would recommend and use raw 
bone instead of the acid phosphate, 
and I used to think it the best 
source from which to obtain phos¬ 
phoric acid ; but experience has taught me that it 
becomes available too slowly to give best profits or 
results. The acid phosphate that is manufactured 
from the Tennessee rock now gives the highest grade 
of fertilizer, and is to be preferred. Make the applica¬ 
tions of fertilizer late in the fall or early spring, 
whichever is most convenient. When the peach trees 
begin to bear, don’t neglect to thin out the fruit, and 
thereby save fertility. It requires just as much min¬ 
eral plant food to perfect the pit of the small, knotty, 
unsalable peach as it does the very finest specimen. 
And as soon as any of the peach trees become dis¬ 
eased, or fail to produce vigorous growth, cut them 
out of the way, and allow the space to contribute its 
available plant food to the apple. When chemical 
manures are relied on to keep up the fertility of the 
orchard, let the cultivation be shallow, and in dry 
seasons especially, as frequent as possible, so as to 
conserve soil moisture, which is needed to give vigor¬ 
ous, healthy foliage, as well as perfect fruit. With¬ 
out the one, we cannot have the other. 
Indiana. w. w. stevens. 
Don’t Mix the Fruits. 
As to apple trees in peach orchards, I never believe 
in mixing the two, but if A. D. M. already has them 
planted, they can be kept going only by the most 
liberal culture and thorough feeding. Stable manure 
around the trees each year, of course, will be a good 
thing for them, and, say, 10 pounds of fine ground 
raw bone and three to five of muriate of potash, and 
frequent stirrings of the soil during the growing 
months, ought to enable them to keep pace with the 
peach trees. When the peach trees die out, at the 
end of 12 or 15 years, the apple orchard will be fairly 
well under way, but of course, not so strong or 
