189 s ? 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
43 
Hybrid Wichuraiana Roses. 
The Japanese RosaWiehuraiana, which 
was introduced a few years ago, has 
proved very valuable where a trailing 
carpeting plant is needed. This little 
rose has small stout leathery leaves, 
deep shining green, and small white 
single flowers, followed by brilliant red 
fruit, which remains for a long time, 
unless eaten by birds. The plant forms 
long shoots, creeping along the ground. 
It makes a handsome carpet under tall- 
growing roses, and is used in parks to 
cover slopes or hang over embankments. 
Although it suffered in some places 
around Boston last winter, it is generally 
regarded as entirely hardy. It is found 
especially useful in cemeteries, making a 
beautiful carpeting plant, and has been 
sold by some nurserymen under the name 
of “ Memorial rose ” in view of this. 
The many excellences of the Wich- 
uraiana rose have led to its use in 
hybridization, and a set of these hybrids, 
resulting from the Wichuraiana crossed 
with Hybrid Remontant, Brier and 
Noisette, is to be introduced this year. 
This set includes four varieties, Manda’s 
Triumph, pure white, double flowers, very 
fragrant ; Universal Favorite, double, 
bright rose ; South Orange Perfection, 
double, blush pink shading to white, 
and Pink Roamer, single, bright pink, 
lighter at the center, with deep orange 
stamens. This is said to be a Sweet- 
brier hybrid, and should, therefore, 
prove very hardy and vigorous. 
In addition to their value as trailing 
plants, the Wichuraiana roses may be 
trained to form a beautiful arch. They 
must, of course, be tied up to the trellis 
they are to cover, being brought up from 
either side ; as they lengthen, the shoots 
may be crossed completely over and 
rooted from the tips on the opposite 
side. The abundant foliage and bril¬ 
liant fruit make such an arch extremely 
attractive even after its season of bloom 
l 
is over. Its portrait appeared in The R. 
N.-Y. of November 30, 1895. 
Shrubs and Their Pruning. 
People often complain that their 
shrubs fail to bloom, when the fault is 
entirely due to defective pruning. Shrubs 
which bloom early in the spring form 
their blossom buds the year before ; 
necessarily, if such are pruned severely 
in the fall, these flowering buds are 
cut away, and the owner complains that 
the shrubs “fail to flower.” The rule 
for all early blooming shrubs is to do any 
pruning immediately after their bloom¬ 
ing is over ; this encourages the growth 
of new shoots, which have time to ma¬ 
ture and form flowering buds during the 
season’s growth. It does not follow, by 
any means, that severe pruning is needed; 
dead wood and weak shoots may be re¬ 
moved, and, if necessary, the shrub 
thinned a little to admit plenty of light 
and air. Other shrubs, which bloom late 
in the summer from the current season’s 
growth, may be pruned either early in 
the spring, so that there is time to pro- 
M OTHERS .—Be sure to use “ Mrs. Wins¬ 
low’s Soothing Syrup ” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Best — Adv. 
duce flowering wood, or late in the fall, 
after blooming is over. 
In addition to pruning for bloom, we 
also prune to produce well-ripened wood, 
or to gain symmetry of growth. For 
these purposes, we may prune all summer 
long, without injury to the plant. In¬ 
deed, some shrubs and vines lose so 
much sap when cut in spring that they 
will “ bleed ” to death ; such subjects 
may be pruned in the summer with im¬ 
punity. The hardy Japanese vine, 
Akebia quinata, is an example of this; 
if cut in spring it pours out its sap like 
water, but it may be pruned with per¬ 
fect safety in summer. Summer pruning 
is also found useful during a very wet 
season ; it prevents a soft, sappy growth, 
which would otherwise suffer as soon as 
cold weather sets in. Shrubs ordinarily 
hardy suffer as soon as allowed to carry 
a quantity of succulent, immature wood. 
But while judicious pruning is needed, 
over-pruning certainly weakens plants, 
though it may result temporarily in an 
apparent increase of growth. Most 
amateur gardeners will find a little thin¬ 
ning, or the removal of dead wood, all 
that is required. 
Hardy June roses usually get enough 
pruning when the blooms are cut. Of 
course, if we wish to induce a long 
season of bloom, no flowers should be 
allowed to fade upon the plant, and this 
care will also induce a scattering second 
crop of bloom in the autumn, so we may 
cut our roses with a clear conscience. 
Mrs. John Laing, a charming pink, is 
one of the best second-crop roses; in¬ 
deed, it may be described as the best 
hardy garden rose we grow. 
Useful Bedding Plants. 
Begonia Vernon is now recognized as 
one of the best general purpose bedding 
plants we have. It grows quickly, 
blooms freely, and makes an especially 
fine display in a warm, exposed situation. 
Some very effective bedding in Wash¬ 
ington Park, Chicago, last year, consisted 
of broad bands of this begonia; the 
situation was a sloping bank facing 
directly west, so that it received the 
fiercest afternoon sun. This begonia is 
propagated from seed, cuttings, or divis¬ 
ion of the plants, the latter being a very 
good plan. The old plants are taken up 
in the fall, packed tightly in shallow 
boxes, with a little soil sprinkled be¬ 
tween the roots, and kept alive, without 
any effort to encourage growth while in 
the greenhouse. About April the plants 
are divided, taking care that each portion 
has some roots, potted, and encouraged 
to grow. In about a month they are 
vigorous, and in good condition for 
planting out. 
Blue flowers are rather rare among 
bedding plants, this tint being usually 
supplied by Lobelia Erinus. But, while 
this is a mass of bright blue when 
planted out, the bloom does not last, 
and by August the plants are nothing 
but forlorn little ragged weeds. This 
lobelia is very often put in window and 
veranda boxes, and very charming it is 
at first, but unless the gardener is pre¬ 
pared to dispense with it later it is bet¬ 
ter omitted. The Ageratum, though 
nearer lilac, is our usual substitute for 
blue. The dwarf variety, Cope’s Pet, is 
an excellent bordering plant. It is very 
even and compact in growth, and re¬ 
mains a ribbon of lilac-blue for a long 
time. As the flowers begin to fade they 
should all be trimmed off, to keep up 
the bloom. A very pretty bedding plant 
with flowers as intensely blue as the 
Lobelia is Browallia elata. It is an old 
thing, but not at all common. 
A comparatively new plant, which 
was noted as a most effective bedder 
last summer, is the variegated Abutilon 
Souvenir de Bonn. The leaves are clear 
green, bordered all around with an even 
band of ivory white. It grows very 
luxuriantly, and has the same graceful 
habit as the other abutilons. As a bor¬ 
der around a bed of cannas it is espec¬ 
ially fine. This abutilon is also a showy 
house plant for the winter. 
GENERAL NOTES. 
Abutilon Megapotamicum is an old, 
but worthy plant, excellent for baskets 
and window or veranda boxes. It has a 
slender, trailing or sprawling habit, 
leaves beautifully marbled in green and 
gold, and hanging bell-shaped flowers 
of deep red, with a projecting tuft of 
black stamens like a brush. 
White Grubs, the larva of the com¬ 
mon June beetle, are troublesome in 
greenhouse soil, seriously injuring the 
roots of roses. For this reason, rose 
growers often avoid soil from an old 
pasture, which is very likely to contain 
these larvae. Once in the soil under 
glass, it is almost impossible to eradicate 
them, except by searching for them 
around the roots. 
The Double English violet, though it 
has a short season of bloom, is one of 
the most delightful spring plants we 
can grow in the hardy border. It is not 
very often seen, because the Marie 
Louise and Neapolitan violets are more 
profitable to the florist, owing to their 
long succession of bloom. The English 
violet is distinguished from the Marie 
Louise type by its rounder, deeper 
green leaf ; the flowers are deep violet, 
very double and extremely fragrant. It 
appears to be identical with the variety 
known as Double Russian. It makes a 
fine edging to a herbaceous border, 
holding its rich green foliage until cov¬ 
ered by snow. It blooms nicely in a 
cold frame. 
A Makeshift Conservatory. —Those 
without an artificially heated green¬ 
house or conservatory, says the Pacific 
Rural Press, often find it difficult, even 
in California, to winter such plants as 
Begonias, tender ferns, palms, etc. A 
north or northeast corner of the veranda 
might easily be inclosed in glass, and 
the temperature kept high enough by 
the use of an ordinary coal-oil stove, 
which is in no way injurious to the 
plants. But it must be remembered that 
very little water should be used in the 
winter months; this is all-important. 
In February repot all the plants, clean 
the pots, and see that there is ample 
drainage in their bottoms. In the even¬ 
ing, when a room gets heated with dry 
air, the plants should be removed, or 
better, should be kept in the hall, or 
some place where no dry heat will reach 
them. On the top of the coal-oil stove 
in the conservatory, a vessel of water 
should be kept. 
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