IOO 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
February 13 
so serious as to kill the plants, they will probably 
winter all right; but they will come out in a much 
weakened condition in the spring. There can be no 
question that any disease which checks the growth of 
the plant after the fruit is off, will so weaken it that 
it cannot produce as many berries the next season. 
Although the disease was very prevalent in the fall 
of 1896, the conditions may be such that it will not do 
much damage in 1897 if the plants have all they want 
to eat and get good care. Yet it is hardly possible 
that the crop of 1897 will not be materially lessened 
by the work of the disease in weakening the plants in 
1896. As to whether there will be any difference in 
the quality of the fruit, I cannot say, for there seems 
to be no data on this point. It would be natural to 
suppose, however, that the healthier the plant, the 
better fruit it will produce. 
3. It may be stated that experimenters in different 
parts of the country have proved that this leaf-blight 
fungus can be subdued by the application of fungi¬ 
cides. Prof. Bailey recorded some experiments in this 
line in Bulletin 79 of the Cornell Experiment Station. 
Mr. Lodeman says: “Spraying the plants with the 
Bordeaux Mixture will check the disease. Applica¬ 
tions should be begun as soon as growth starts in the 
spring, and non-bearing plants may be treated 
throughout the summer, the treatments being made 
at intervals of three or four weeks. Bearing planta¬ 
tions will derive benefit from a treatment made when 
growth starts in the spring, and from another made 
when the first blossoms open. After harvesting the 
fruit, it is a good plan to mow off the old foliage, 
then to remove and destroy it. Burning the straw¬ 
berry patch over is frequently followed by bad 
results. The new growth should then be sprayed at 
intervals of three or four weeks until two or three 
applications have been made.” Many of those who 
have tried Fungiroid report that it is not nearly so 
effectual in checking fungous diseases as is the Bor¬ 
deaux Mixture. None of the powder fungicides seems 
to give as good results as the sprays. 
What Fish for the Pond ? 
C. )Y. R., Clark's Hill, hid .—I have a fish pond fed by springs; 
the largest spring runs two gallons per minute, the next one gal¬ 
lon, and the others still less. The temperature of the water is 
56 degrees in summer, and about the same in winter. No other 
water runs into the pond, which is three-fourths acre in extent 
with a mud and sand bottom, and is five feet deep. Would 
speckled trout thrive in this water and do as well as the native 
fish, such as cat, bass and sunttsh ? 
Ans. —It is somewhat probable that there is an 
error in the figures given as to the temperature of 
the water of this pond in the summer. The small 
supply of water and the large extent of surface ex¬ 
posed to the sun and warm air, together, raise this 
suspicion. But trout will do well in a pond of which 
the water goes up to 75 or even 80 degrees in the hot¬ 
test part of the summer, and the more so if shade 
is afforded by means of floats here and there, made of 
boards fastened together like a floor. Shade trees on 
the south side of a pond will, also, help to keep the 
water cool. There is no reason other than this, if, 
indeed, it exists, why speckled trout should not thrive 
in such a pond. But they would be exposed to con¬ 
siderable risk from the bass, which are voracious 
feeders, and especially destructive of trout, while 
their spiny fins give them a great advantage over the 
trout, even when these become large enough to take 
in their enemies were it not for their sharp armor. 
Suntish, too, are injurious to trout, devouring their 
eggs and the young fish, while they are also armed 
with sharp spines, as all the perch family are. Bass 
and catfish are good eating, and on the whole, rather 
than risk the trout, it might be better to keep these, 
and forego the trout. Otherwise it would be neces¬ 
sary to draw off the water and remove the present 
stock before putting in the trout. h. s. 
Fattening Steers and Idle Horses. 
A. E. P., Grant Park, III. —1. Given plenty of good clover bay, 
plenty of good thrashed corn fodder, plenty of poor oat straw, 
corn worth 20 cents per bushel, oats worth 15 cents per bushel, 
how may I obtain the best results in feeding and fattening steers 
weighing 1,000 pounds, and idle horses weighing 1,000 to 1,500 
pounds ? The grain may be ground for 2 cents per bushel. 2. I 
have three pieces of good, flat, well-tiled land which I desire to 
seed for hay. Plot 1 was heeded to Timothy and clover last spring, 
with oats. Result, a good stand of clover, but no Timothy. Can 
I sow anything this winter or spring to support the clover and 
increase the yield ? It is quite likely that a liberal sprinkling of 
Timothy will appear among the clover this season, still it would 
be a good idea to sow about six pounds more per acre early in 
March. Plot 2 is to be sown to oats the coming spring and seeded 
to grass, the object being good feeding hay, and clover sod to 
plow under for fertilizer. What shall I sow with the clover ? 
Plot 3 is to be sown to oats and seeded to grass for choice selling 
hay. What can I add to the Timothy to increase the yield of hay 
and not materially injure its selling quality? 
Ans —1. This question was submitted to one of the 
most successful feeders in this locality, and he replies 
as follows : “I would feed the steers all they would 
eat of corn and clover, changing to fodder occasion¬ 
ally. I would be governed in this matter by the 
actions of the cattle, giving them whichever they pre¬ 
ferred. I would not grind the grain, but would fol¬ 
low the cattle with hogs, 50 to 100-pounders, and 
nothing would be wasted. I would add a little lin¬ 
seed meal to the feed when finishing off. I would let 
the horses pick over the oat straw, and bed them 
with it, so as to convert it into manure as fast as pos¬ 
sible. I would, also, feed them the oats, with a little 
of the fodder or clover hay. Only enough grain 
should be fed to keep them in good condition, and 
that will be very little.” 2 . Add nothing. To bring 
the highest price in market, Timothy should be clear 
—no clovers or other grasses of any sort mixed with 
it. Probably A. E. P. understands Illinois soil and 
weather thoroughly. If he does, he knows that we 
almost invariably have short spells—they last only 
two or three days at a time—in early spring when 
the ground will work finely. The very first one of 
these spells is the time to sow grass seed for the best 
results. When seeding to grass with oats, sow the 
oats thinly, and don’t spare the grass seed. Illinois 
“ mud ” will grow excellent crops if it be man¬ 
aged right—cultivated and seeded at just the proper 
time. FRKD GRUNDY. 
Pasture for 25 Hogs 
</. G. 11., Middle Island, N. Y .—What kinds of forage crops shall 
I sow, and how much for 25 hogs ? Will oat straw do horses any 
harm ? 
Ans. —One of the best forage crops you can sow for 
hogs is oats and peas, 1 % bushel of oats and one 
bushel of peas per acre. Fit the ground well and as 
early in the spring as possible. Sow the peas broad¬ 
cast and cover with a cultivator. The oats may then 
be drilled in or sown broadcast and harrowed in. For 
the 25 hogs, you should have, at least, six acres of 
land that can be devoted to the raising of forage. 
The accompanying diagram will explain how the suc¬ 
cession of green forage may be secured. In the sec¬ 
ond sowing, barley is substituted for the oats, because 
it is less likely to be injured by rust. At the Cornell 
Experiment Station the past season, plots of barley 
and peas remained in good condition for feeding until 
December 1. This diagram shows three plots of 
Plot l. 
First sowing, April 15, to oats and peas. 
Feed from May 15 to June 1. 
Second sowing, June 1, to barley and peas. 
Feed from July 1 to July 15. 
Plot 2. 
First sowing, May 1, to oats and peas. 
Feed from June 1 to June 15. 
Second sowing, June 15, to barley and peas. 
Feed from July 15 to August 1. 
Plot 3. 
First sowing, May 15, to oats and peas. 
Feed from June 15 to July 1. 
Second sowing, July 1, to barley and peas. 
Feed from August 1 to August 15. 
two acres each, and the time of sowing and pasturing 
each plot. A third seeding may be made, and the 
same three plots be made to furnish forage until the 
middle of November to the first of December, l. a. c. 
A Water-Tight Reservoir. 
IF. T. S ., Riverside, (No State ).—I am building an open reservoir 
(in gravelly soil), 100 feet long, 20 wide, 10 deep (sloping bank). I 
wish to line it with some cheap material to make it water-tight. 
I have plenty of good clay 300 yards distant, and lime at seven 
cents per bushel. Can I make a satisfactory lining with the 
above materials ? 
Ans. —The bottom of the reservoir can be made of 
puddled clay. The supply of water for Cornell 
University comes from a large reservoir which was 
constructed in a gravel bed. The soil was very open 
and porous. Dig out the reservoir to the size required, 
and then commence at the lowest point with the clay 
which should be put on, at least, four inches thick. 
Wet the clay thoroughly and beat it down with a 
pestle until it is puddled and packed. The success of 
the reservoir depends entirely upon this wetting and 
packing. Do not make it so wet that the clay will 
run, but simply so that it will pack and become solid. 
No lime is necessary. l. a. c. 
Manure, Ashes and Dry Bones. 
C. M., Mumford, Mo. —1. Which will pay best, to haul barn 
manure which costs nothing, hard-wood ashes from a lime kiln 
at 50 cents, or dry bones from a slaughter house for $1.50 a load ? 
All have to be hauled five miles. 2. Will dry bones be good 
manure for pear trees ? I find by experience that they are ex¬ 
cellent on grapes, but have never tried them on trees of any kind. 
Ans. —1 . The manure is the cheapest at the price 
given, but it may pay to haul some of the ashes and 
bone to go with it. The manure lacks potash and 
phosphoric acid, and these will be supplied by the 
ashes and bone. Our plan for such crops as corn 
would be to haul all the manure we could and plow 
it in. Then we would harrow in above the manure 
three loads or more per acre of the ashes broadcasted 
from the wagon. 2. Dry bones at $1.50 per load 
would represent a small gold mine in New England, 
and with the ashes they would make a perfect fertil¬ 
izer for fruit. .Vhole bones buried near trees and 
vines are slow to give up their fertility. If you had 
a steamer and mill you could soon grind them. One 
cheap way to dispose of them is to pack in boxes or 
barrels in layers with the ashes between. Smash the 
larger bones with a sledge. Put the pieces in about 
a foot deep, and then about as much of the ashes, and 
so on to the top. Then keep the whole thing well 
watered with liquid manure, if possible. In two 
months or so, the bones will be softened so that you 
can crush them quite readily, and they will be much 
more available for plant food. 
Potatoes on Illinois Bottom Land. 
J. B. M., Havana, III.—I am tbiDking of putting in about 10 
acres of potatoes this spring on a piece of Illinois River bottom 
land from which I am now clearing the timber. During very 
high water, the land is overflowed, but this rarely occurs dur¬ 
ing the summer. The soil is heavy. What potato would you 
recommend me to use, how far apart each way would you plant, 
and how many eyes to the hill? I want a big yield and a good 
potato for the market. In cutting the trees, how high would you 
leave the stumps, and when is the best time to sprout them to 
prevent them growing again ? 
Ans. —J. B. M. must take the risk of an overflow in 
summer, as overflows and potato crops do not go to¬ 
gether, more especially on heavy soil, where the land 
is slow in drying out. By waiting until the danger 
of overflow is past in the spring, and when the ground 
will plow up dry and friable in a fair year, I do not 
see why his potato crop should not yield according 
to the science and skill of cultivation applied to the 
crop. I would make the rows about two feet nine 
inches to three feet apart, dropping the seed every 
15 inches, a two-eye piece to the hill. I would prefer 
to plant the field with an early sort, such as World’s 
Fair or Polaris. If late potatoes do well in that 
neighborhood, it would be well not to risk all on one 
sort; for a late crop, I could not recommend any more 
highly than the Carman No. 3. Our practice during 
many years of experience in cutting trees on land to 
be cultivated, was to leave the stumps about 14 to 16 
inches high, that a wagon, even when the ground is 
a little soft, will pass over them. Cut in this way, it 
will, also, be less trouble for the plowman to get over 
and around the stumps. It might be true that stumps 
cut high will die sooner. The oftener one cuts the 
sprouts, the quicker the stumps will die, but the best 
one time of the year is during August, d. f. miller. 
Quince, Pears and Blackberries. 
.1. IF. IF., Nashua, N. 11. 1. In setting out a small quince or¬ 
chard, what variety or varieties would you advise? 2. Will you 
name seven or eight of the best pears for home use, extending 
through the season from the earliest to the latest? 3. What are 
three or four of the hardiest and best varieties of blackberries 
for a near market? 
Ans. —1. Of all the well-tried varieties, we would 
choose Rea’s Mammoth. In an experimental way, we 
would try Borgeat and Van Deman. 2. Of early 
pears, we would select for the earliest, Early Wilder, 
Margaret and Tyson. For later, Clapp’s Favorite 
and Bartlett ; still later, Seckel, Sheldon, Bose ; for 
latest, Anjou and Lawrence. 3. Of blackberries, we 
would select the following : Agawam, Ancient Briton 
and Kittatinny. 
Peaches With “ Wilted Black Sides.” 
P. L. B., Dresden, 0.— Our Salway peach orchard, six years old, 
has borne two crops. I think the ground is too rich, as the 
peaches grow large, but are not perfect; they have wilted black 
sides, do not color well, and are inclined to rot badly. The trees 
have made a strong growth, and are large. The land, before 
being planted to peaches, was used for sheep pasture, and being 
the highest ground in the'ifield, was where they lay at night, 
which made it rich. It is rather new ground, has not been farmed 
very much, but has been cleared long enough for the stumps to 
be all gone. It is damp, but no water ever stands on it. Since 
being planted to peaches, it has raised two crops of corn, and 
since that, has been in grass and weeds for its second crop last 
summer. 
Ans. —It may be that the soil is too rich in nitrogen 
for the best development of the fruit of the peach, 
but, if so, it is from too much sheep manure. But 
the chief trouble, probably, lies in the fungous diseases 
which have preyed on the fruit. The “ wilted black 
sides ” are, in all probability, the result of a disease 
which is often called “ peach spot,” and comes from 
numerous colonies of a microscopical fungus, each 
being a spot much like a fly speck, and together 
forming a dry, scabby appearance on the surface of 
the peach, and a stunted growth of that part of the 
fruit. Sometimes exceedingly hot spells and pro¬ 
tracted growth cause a lack of normal development 
on the side next the sun. These troubles were quite 
common in many parts of the country the past season. 
“Peach rot” is the result of another fungus which 
finds the most favorable development in warm, wet 
weather. The remedy for these diseases is the burn¬ 
ing of the remnants of diseased fruit left in the or¬ 
chard at once, and repeated,spraying with fungicides, 
in accordance with specific printed directions, which 
should be procured without delay from the State Ex¬ 
periment Station of Ohio (at Wooster), or, in case of 
trouble in other States, of the State Experiment 
Stations. h. k. van deman . 
