116 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
February 20 
broods occur in Illinois ; in New York State, we 
usually have but one brood ; in the Far West— 
Oregon and Washington—they have three or four. 
m. v. s. 
Dwarf Pears in Texas ; Red Haw. 
C. W. G., Tayahoale, Texas.—I have a dwarf pear orchard of 
750 trees set in equilateral triangles, 15 feet each way, which 
makes the rows about 13 feet 8 inches apart. The trees have 
been set one and two years. I would like to know whether I 
could double the number of trees by setting one between each 
two in the row, which would make the trees stand 714 feet apart 
in the rows, and the rows 13 feet 8 inches apart. The orchard is 
given clean cultivation, and grown entirely by irrigation. I 
would like to double the number if it would not bring the trees 
too thick on the ground. My dwarfs are on quince roots, but I 
see a good many advocating the common. Red haw as a stock for 
a dwarf. Have any trees been grown on this; if so, how do they 
compare with quince roots, and how should the heps be handled 
to get seedlings to the best advantage? I am intending to ex¬ 
periment with them, and have a lot stratified at present, but do 
not know whether to plant out this spring or leave stratified until 
next spring. 
Ans. —Fifteen feet is rather wider apart than dwarf 
pear trees should be set, but 7 X feet is too close ; 12 
feet would be about right. But if C. W. G has plenty 
of land, be need not begrudge the ground they 
occupy. They will grow and, in time, occupy about all 
the space, especially if the trees were set deep enough 
to strike pear roots. I have never known of Red 
haw being used as a root upon which to work the 
pear, except in a small, experimental way. The final 
result I do not know. I have repeatedly top-grafted 
the pear on this stock, and found that it did well. It 
is my opinion that it is worth a trial as a dwarf or 
semi dwarf stock, for the Red haw grows more 
thriftily than the quince. I would plant the seeds 
this spring. h. e. van deman. 
A Peach Orchard; What Varieties ? 
W. C. K., Vouglassville, Pa .—1. I planted a peach orchard two 
years ago this spring. Last spring, I cut the trees back to buds, 
and would like to know how I should trim them this spring, as 
they made a strong growth last year. 2. I intend to enlarge 
my orchard in the spring, and would like to know what varieties 
to plant so that they will prove the most profitable. 
Ans —1. Cut back one-third to one-half of last year’s 
growth. 2. Elberta is very popular in the markets 
now, but more of it is being planted than any other, 
and by the time all the young trees get to bearing, 
there may be a glut of this variety. I would plant 
some Elberta, if there are not many trees of it in the 
other setting, and some Bishop Family Favorite and 
Walker. h. e. v. d. 
Hardiness of Walnuts and Chestnuts 
F. M. Ji.. Hingham, Mass.— 1. Are any of the new chestnuts or 
Japan walnuts hardy enough for eastern Massachusetts? 2. 
How about the dwarf English walnuts ? 
Ans. —1. Yes, I believe that they are all hardy 
enough to endure an average winter in eastern Massa¬ 
chusetts. 2. Some varieties of the Persian (improp¬ 
erly called English), walnuts, wiLl endure the climate 
of Massachusetts, hut their profitable culture is ex¬ 
tremely doubtful. H. E. v. D. 
Some Fruits for Colorado. 
M. E. 8., Canon City , Col.— 1. Which strawberry would you con¬ 
sider the best for profit—Brandy wine, M trshall or Win. Belt ? 2. 
Is the Oregon Evergreen blackberry of any value ? 3. What are 
three of the most hardy and most profitable blackberries for this 
climate? 4. Which are a few of the most hardy plums? 5. Do 
you consider the Paragon apple all right for general planting? 
6. Which is considered the most hardy sweet cherry ? None of 
them that I have heard of seems to be quite hardy here, but I 
would like to try a few of the best ? 7. Wnat are two of the best 
winter pears for this climate ? 
Ans. —1. All are good, but Wm. Belt is, perhaps, 
the best. Marshall is very large and coarse, but of 
poor quality. When at Canon City in 1892, I found 
the Jucunda the leading variety. This seemed very 
remarkable, as it had been tried and almost generally 
discarded about 25 years ago, because of its defective 
root system ; but the peculiarly favorable conditions 
afforded by irrigation seemed to overcome this fault. 
If a strawberry will do well anywhere, it ought to 
flourish under culture as it is usually practiced in the 
irrigated regions of the West. 2. No, it is of little 
value. It is very tender, has to be trellised. because 
of its very trailing habit, and does not often bear 
well. 3. Snyder, Stone and Taylor are among the 
best of the very hardy blackberries. Early Harvest, 
Early King and Wilson are three of the very early 
kinds, but they need to be laid down in the fall and 
covered with earth in eastern Colorado to prevent 
winterkilling. 4. Rockford, Ocheeda, Hawkeye, Gay¬ 
lord, Stoddard, American Eagle and Van Deman are 
varieties of Prunus Americana, which is the hardiest 
species of plum now in cultivation in this country. 
They are all productive, red and attractive in color 
and of fair quality. Whitaker, Wild Goose and 
Milton of the P. hortulana type are a little less 
hardy, but much earlier and fully as profitable. Of 
the Japanese class, Red June, Abundance, Burbank 
and Hale are among the best. All these are suitable 
to the climate of Colorado and among the most profit¬ 
able plums now being grown. 5 Paragon apple is a 
seedling of Winesap that originated in Tennessee, 
and is thought by those who have tried it to be an 
improvement on that old standard. Mammoth Black 
Twig is often called Paragon, and is of very similar 
character, some thinking it the better of the two. 6. 
I do not believe that any variety of the “sweet” type 
of the cherry will succeed in eastern Colorado. It is 
a mistake to class all the varieties of Prunus avinus [?] 
as “ sweet” cherries, because they are not all sweet. 
The species is properly divided into four types : 
Mazzards, Hearts, Bigarreaus and Dukes. The Duke 
type is the hardiest one. The varieties are mild in 
flavor, but not sweet. Mayduke and Hortense are 
among the best of them. 7. Lawrence and Krull are 
good winter pears. h. e. v. d. 
Nut Trees for Michigan. 
P. W. B., Ithaca , Mich. —I wish to plant this spring a half dozen 
nut trees. What will be best ? The mercury has been as low as 
20 degrees below zero, but rarely drops to 15 degrees below. I 
wish to consider home consumption first, and market secondary. 
Is Catalpa speciosa a good street shade tree ? 
Ans. —We would advise our friend to confine him¬ 
self, for the most part, to the Japan chestnuts, 
Ridgely and Paragon. Perhaps one or two of the 
Japan walnuts would not be amiss. We think that 
one or two of the hardiest and best of the pecans 
might stand his climate. Catalpa speciosa is an ex¬ 
cellent street shade tree. 
New Fruits for a Small Place. 
•I. F. W., Peru. Ind .—1. Is the Early Ohio grape an improve¬ 
ment on the Champion ? Is it of good quality ? Is it earlier than 
Champion? Is it hardy? 2. Describe the Campbell’s Early 
grape. Is it the best early grape for general planting? Is it 
earlier than Champion? Is it better than Early Ohio? 3. 
Are the Columbian Imperial and Columbian grape the same? 
4. Describe the Hosford Mammoth grape. Is it good for 
general planting? Is it larger or better for general plant¬ 
ing than the Eaton ? 5. Is the Ulster Prolific grape as good 
for general planting as Brighton? 6. Is the Leader grape as 
sweet as Martha ? Is it good for extensive planting ? Has it 
any special merit ? 7. In our section of country, the Catawba, 
Clinton and Elvira grapes generally ripen. Which are the best 
new black, red and white grapes ? 8. Is the Highland grape 
hardy and good for general planting ? Is it of very large size and 
good quality ? 9. What do you think of the Triumph grape ? 10. 
Is the Brilliant grape hardy and good for general planting? Is 
it as good quality as Delaware ? Is the vine a strong grower ? 
11. Which are the best of the following list of grapes for general 
planting: Brighton, Ulster Prolific, Poughkeepsie Red, Brilliant, 
Alice, Empire State, Hayes and Leader? 12. Describe the Bis¬ 
marck apple. Is it grafted on Paradise stock ? 13. Is the Buffalo- 
berry good for general planting ? 14. Is the White Transparent 
currant as good as, or better than, White Grape ? 15. What do 
you think of the new red currant, Pomona ? Has it few and 
small seeds? Does it yield more fruit than any other currant? 
Is it belter than other currants ? 10. Which are the best, for 
general planting, of the following list of new currants: Pomona, 
North Star, Moore’s Ruby, London Market and Red Cross ? Are 
any of them better than Fay ? 17. Describe the London Market 
currant. 18. Give a description of the Strawberry-raspberry. 
Does it sprout like the red raspberries ? Is it hardy and fit for 
general planting ? Do the canes die down in the fall and sprout 
up in the spring? 19. Describe the Golden Mayberry. Is it 
hardy ? 
Ans.— 1. We have fruited the Early Ohio grape two 
seasons. It is one of the earliest black grapes, but 
the berry is small, bunch small and quality much 
like that of Champion. The vine is hardy. 2. We 
have already described Campbell’s Early grape. It 
is not so early as the Champion. It is of fine quality, 
ripening in Delaware, O., the latter part of August. 
The skin is firmer than that of the Concord. It is so 
far superior to Early Ohio in every way except in 
earliness, that no comparison need be made. 3. The 
Columbian Imperial or Jumbo is said to be hardy and 
prolific, and the berries are sometimes inch in 
diameter. The Columbian is similar to Moore’s Early 
and the vine is said to be hardy. 4. We have not, 
thus far, been able to distinguish the Hosford’s Mam¬ 
moth from the Eaton. 5. The berry is not as large 
as the Brighton, the bunch is more compact, the skin 
rather firmer, the blossom perfect; but we do not 
think the quality so good. 6. The Leader has not, as 
yet, fruited with us. The Storrs & Harrison Co., 
Painesville, 0., will give you the information you 
desire. 7. We know of no better late grape than 
Mills. Alice is, perhaps, the best new red grape, 
Pocklington the best late white grape, though not 
new. 8. Yes, the Highland is hardy and is an excel¬ 
lent late grape where it succeeds. The berry is of 
large size and good quality. It is a good shipper. 9. 
It is a handsome white grape of good quality, and 
succeeds well in the South. 10. It is a first-rate 
grape where it will succeed. It has not been suffic¬ 
iently tried to enable us to answer the other ques¬ 
tions. 11. Brighton, Ulster, Brilliant, Alice and 
Empire State. 12. The Bismarck apple is golden 
yellow, large and handsome ; flesh sub-acid, tender 
and of fine quality. The tree is hardy and productive, 
bearing when but two or three years old. This is 
what we are told. We do not know what stock is 
used. 13. Yes, moderately so, both for its fruit and 
as an ornamental plant. The sexes should be planted 
close together. 14. The White Transparent is the 
White Dutch. It is better in quality than the White 
Grape, but the berries and bunches are much smaller. 
15. We have not tried Pomona. It is said to be 
immensely productive. 16. We would prefer Fay or 
the Cherry to any of them. 17. We do not know it. 
18. We have already described it several times ; it is 
a worthless affair. The roots are hardy and sucker 
badly. The canes die in the fall. 19. In a few words, 
it may be said to be a large, yellow raspberry with 
seeds no larger than those of strawberries. It is not 
hardy at the Rural Grounds. 
Girdling Peach Trees to Hasten Ripening. 
S. If. J., Mound, La. —When and how shall I girdle peach trees 
in order to make the fruit ripen earlier ? I have a great many 
Chinese Cling peach trees, and if the fruit ripen at the right time, 
there is a big glut in the peach market; but if I can girdle half 
the trees and get them in a few days ahead, they will be very val¬ 
uable. I can then reset the ground with Greensboro, which prom¬ 
ises to be the coming early peach. 
Ans. —In relation to girdling peach trees to insure 
earlier ripening, it needs to be done the year pre¬ 
vious. Where one does not wish to sacrifice the whole 
tree, it is best to take one arm of it and put on a 
strong wire and give it a good twist during the mid¬ 
dle of the growing season. This will check sap 
growth, cause the formation of more than an ordinary 
number of buds, and next year at fruiting time, fruit 
on this branch will mature from 10 days to two weeks 
earlier and be much higher in color than under nor¬ 
mal conditions ; but it will nearly ruin this branch of 
the tree. Cut this away, and girdle another one for 
the next year, and new sprouts will come out below 
where the limb was girdled and, in a year or two, 
mend that side of the tree. Under this system, gird¬ 
ling can be carried on year after year in the orchard, 
and not kill out any of the trees, but will, of course, 
make them somewhat irregular in shape, j. h. hale. 
Apple Pomace Around Trees. 
W. A. G., St. Catharines, Ont. —I would like to know whether 
apple pomace is a detriment to the ground, and if so, why ? If 
the pomace be lightly spread over an orchard, will it hurt the 
trees ? Some say that it will kill them ? 
Ans. —VVe have had no experience, but would not 
care to put this pomace close to trees. Have any 
readers tried it ? 
Fertilizers for Grapes ana Garden. 
II. G. G., Coal City, Ind. —I have about three acres of land that 
I wish to plant to garden truck. With what shall I fertilize ? I 
shall have to depend on commercial fertilizers entirely. The soil 
is clay, not naturally very rich, but I think it has been well ma¬ 
nured for several years. Last season, it was not cropped, but 
grew a dense mass of ragweeds six to eight feet high, that were 
mowed down in August before the seed was ripe. What is the 
best fertilizer for grape vines, on the same land, that have been 
neglected and ripened up very unevenly last season ? It was 
almost impossible to find a cluster that was all ripe at once. 
Ans. —For the grapes, a mixture of three parts fine 
ground bone and one part muriate of potash, or two 
parts wood ashes to one of bone, ought to give fair 
returns. In regard to fertilizer for a garden, we would 
use one of the many special formulas for vegetables, 
making sure to buy one containing, at least, six per 
cent of potash. Where one is beginning the use of 
fertilizers, we would advise the mixed goods rather 
than to attempt a home mixture. 
Early Potatoes, Melons Mixing, Etc. 
E. J. M., Thompson Ridge, N. T.—l. Has Burpee’s Extra Early 
potato been tested at the Rural Grounds ? I planted some last 
year, and they outyielded 10 other varieties, including Carman 
No 3 and Great Divide, and were of better quality than any other. 
2. Is there any danger that Fordhook squash will not come true 
from home-grown seed ? A friend says that his were more like 
cucumbers. I wish to plant quite largely, and do not wish to run 
any risk of failure. 3. Will watermelons or m uskmelons mix 
with citrons growing near, so as to injure the crop the following 
year? 4. Is there any way to prevent beans and peas from get¬ 
ting buggy ? Can the bugs or eggs be destroyed without injuring 
the seed ? 
Ans. —1. Yes, we tried Burpee’s Extra Early in 1894 
—a most unfavorable season. One hill was dug July 
4, and yielded 23 ounces. There were 22 tubers. The 
vines were killed by drought in late July. There 
were many tubers to the hill, but all were small. 2. 
We think not, unless the crop was grown near other 
varieties. 3. The watermelons and citrons may mix, 
but according to careful trials made, watermelons 
and muskmelons will not mix. 4. No, we have tried 
all sorts of spraying to make the vines offensive to 
the weevil. Bisulphide of carbon is a positive remedy. 
It will kill every weevil without further harming the 
pea. Place a small quantity of the carbon on the 
seed in a tight vessel. Use cotton to hold the carbon. 
The vapor is heavier than air and will penetrate to 
the bottom of the vessel. The vapor is highly inflam¬ 
mable. 
Peat Moss for Stable Bedding. 
E. L., Philadelp hia, Pa .—Is the peat moss which is imported 
from Germany, used to any great extent for bedding in or around 
New York City? Is it as good as, or better than, straw for that 
purpose ? When it is used as manure on the farm or in the mar¬ 
ket garden, are the results better than those obtained from ma¬ 
nure where Btraw has been used as bedding ? 
Ans.—T here is not so much of this moss used as 
formerly—due chiefly to its high price. Planer shav¬ 
ings have largely taken its place. Some of it is still 
used for beddicg the better class of horses. At the 
Oradell stock farm, where about 100 high-priced 
horses are boarded every winter, this moss is used 
exclusively. The horses are kept in box stalls, the 
floors of which are covered several inches deep with 
peat moss. The droppings are carefully removed. 
