1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
199 
THE GARDEN 
Treatment of Azalea. 
J. K., Long Island. —After an azalea has done 
blooming, what treatment should it receive ? 
Ans. —Pluck off the withered flowers 
and seed vessels ; do not allow these to 
mature. Keep the plants in the green¬ 
house until all danger of frost is over ; 
then put them outside for the summer. 
A somewhat sheltered position, with 
partial shade, should be selected, but 
they must not be exposed to drip. A 
temporary house made of slats or laths 
two inches apart is excellent for azaleas, 
tender rhododendrons, heaths and other 
hard-wooded plants, or for cool-house 
palms and many of the Mexican orchids, 
during the summer. However, J. K. 
can manage without this by selecting a 
northern or eastern exposure, with par¬ 
tial shade. Stand the azalea pots upon 
boards, to prevent earth worms from 
entering, and then bank up to the rim 
of the pot with coal ashes. Water when 
necessary—which will be daily in hot, 
dry weather—but beyond this no special 
attention is required. Bring the azaleas 
into the greenhouse when cold nights 
begin in the fall. Under such circum¬ 
stances, the azaleas ripen their wood 
finely, and set plenty of flower buds for 
the next season. 
Vine for Covermq Board fence. 
J. W. G., Massachusetts.— What do you recom¬ 
mend for a iiuick-growing vine, either from seed 
or plant, to cover a white-painted board fence in 
a shady place—soil, a rich, sandy loam, well 
drained, which can be watered at will ? It must 
be quick-growing, because the fence is very un¬ 
sightly as it is. I have tried clematis, but it does 
not do well on account of the shade. I have tried 
the ordinary Morning-glory, and the shade is too 
much for that. The vine must be a compact 
grower, and cover the fence from the ground up, 
and must cling close, or be capable of training 
close, to the fence, on account of the narrowness 
of a path. A thorny climber, rose, for instance, 
will not do, because the women’s dresses will be¬ 
come frayed by coming in contact with the 
thorns. 
Ans. —This seems an unfortunate posi¬ 
tion ; the shady situation and narrow 
space are both against a good effect. We 
are not told the height of the fence, but 
it being made of painted boards, there 
is nothing for the vine to cling to. Even 
self-clinging vines like ivy or ampelopsis 
turn aside with disappointment from a 
painted wall. We suggest that J. W. G. 
amend his conditions by putting a trellis 
of chicken wire netting about two inches 
out from the fence, and, as a covering, 
use the common Cinnamon vine. This 
grows quickly, and forms a mass of close, 
shining foliage ; it will hug closely to 
the wall, and take up little space. The 
variegated Japan hop is another hand¬ 
some, rank-growing vine worth trying 
in such a situation. Cobaaa scandens 
and Maurandya Barclayana are, also, 
worth trying, though if the shade is as 
dense as J. W. G. leads us to believe, it 
will be against their success. We ad¬ 
vise using several different vines, rather 
than trusting to one only. We have seen 
the Moonflower(lpomoea Bona-nox)grow- 
ing luxuriantly where it was shaded a 
good part of the day, and this makes a 
close mat of luxuriant foliage, occupy¬ 
ing little space. 
Ferns and Palms from Seed; Holly. 
E. L., Rhinebeck, N. Y .— 1. Are ferns easily 
grown from seed ? Would an amateur be success¬ 
ful or would it be better to buy the plants ? 2. 
What kinds would do best in an ordinary sitting 
room with a coal lire ? 3. Do seeds of Dracaena 
and palms grow readily, and what treatment do 
they need ? 4. Would holly stand the winter here, 
and do the seeds grow readily? Which would 
you advise, European or American ? 
Ans. —1. Common ferns are not diffi¬ 
cult to grow from seed under proper 
conditions, but this means a greenhouse 
bench with bottom heat. The seeds or 
spores are very tiny, and often take a 
tedious time to germinate. When they 
do, the little prothalli look very differ¬ 
ent from the parent fern ; they must be 
carefully pricked out and replanted, 
MOTHERS .—Be sure to use “ Mrs. Wins¬ 
low’s Soothing Syrup ” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Beat — Adv. 
and the young plant must be grown on 
very carefully. We recommend E. L. 
to buy the plants, rather than to attempt 
growing from seed. 2. An ordinary sit¬ 
ting-room with a coal fire is usually 
rather hard on ferns, and only very ro¬ 
bust specimens should be attempted. 
The Sword fern, Nephrolepis exaltata, 
usually stands well in a room; the 
variety Bostoniensis, with drooping 
fronds, is handsomer than the type 
Onychium Japonicum, sometimes called 
the Holly fern, is handsome and robust. 
Some of the Pterises, as Pteris Cretica, 
P. Cretica albo-lineata, and P. serrulata, 
and the hardier Polypodiums and As- 
pidiums, are suited to your purpose. We 
do not recommend the Maidenhair ferns, 
because, although they are sometimes 
seen doing well in a room, they do not, 
usually, succeed in a warm, dry atmos¬ 
phere. 3. We don’t recommend E. L. to 
try growing Dracaenas and palms from 
seed. They don’t germinate well without 
bottom heat, and the palms especially 
may be several months before they do 
germinate. The culture of the young 
plants requires the temperature and at¬ 
mospheric conditions of a warm green¬ 
house, and the first season sees a slow 
growth. 4. Holly seeds are slow to ger¬ 
minate, and the plants are very slow of 
growth. The American holly should be 
hardy with you ; the English holly is 
doubtful, though there are some fine 
trees of it around Philadelphia. It would 
not be advisable to try either in a very 
exposed situation. 
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THE STORRS & HARRISON CO., 
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•• Incomparable " collection of Sweet Peas, 17 types, 
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HENRY A DREER, PHILADELPHIA 
IT IS FREE 
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7—Copyright 1897—The Bates-Whitman Co., N.Y.—692. 
One 
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