1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
34i 
bottom and sides. Clay must be wetted down and 
packed with a pestle or by the tramping of horses. 
Upon the care taken in packing and puddling the 
clay, will depend the success of the pond. 
L A CLINTON. 
Plank or Cement Floor. 
O. P. ./., Mehoopany, Pa.— Wh'ch is cheaper, a cement or a 
plank floor in a basement barn ? How many barrels of cement 
will be required for a 36 x 40 barn ? Will Rosendale cement do to 
fill in between the stones, and finish with a more costly cement ? 
How many parts sand to one of cement ? 
Ans —A plank floor will cost less at first than a 
cement floor. In central New York, a good hemlock 
plank floor for a barn 36x40 will cost about $16 for 
the lumber. A good cement floor for the same size 
barn would cost from $75 to $80 complete. Rosendale 
cement or water lime can be used for the lower layers, 
about 20 barrels of it b( ing required. The finishing 
coat should be with Portland cement, and it would 
need about five barrels for the work. In mixing the 
water lime, use four parts of sand to one of lime. In 
mixing Portland cement, use three parts of good, 
clean sand to one of cement. l. a. c. 
Coiled Springs on the Tub Silo 
W. J., Gawas, Canada. —I see that most farmers complain of 
having to tighten the hoops on the tub silo when emptied, and 
then watch them closely after filling and loosen them for fear of 
bursting. Could this not be obviated by placing underneath the 
nut on the hoop a coiled spring with a washer between the wood 
and spring, and another over the spring and under the nut, which 
would draw the hoop up when the silo is empty, and give way 
when the silo is filled, thus keeping up the proper tension ? 
Ans —While it might be possible to use some coiled- 
spring arrangement on the hoops of the tub silo, yet 
we hardly think it practical. The extra cost of the 
springs would be too great to warrant their use, and 
then there is no certainty that they would be a suc¬ 
cess. After filling the silo in the ordinary way, it 
requires attention for only a few days to determine 
how much the tension on the hoop must be relieved ; 
and when the silo is empty, a half hour’s work will 
tighten it sufficiently to keep it from collapsing. 
“ Alkali Water" in Colorado. 
F. S. K., West Cliff , Col .—What is good for man or beast to 
counteract the bad effects of alkali water ? 
Ans. —It can be said, in general, that there is noth¬ 
ing that can be taken by either man or beast to 
counteract the effects of alkali water. For a person 
who moves to an alkali district and takes the water 
into the system for the first time, small doses of pare¬ 
goric for the first few days are advisable. After that, 
Nature will take the matter in hand and accommo¬ 
date the system to the new beverage. It would be 
difficult to claim that there was any bad effect to 
either man or beast from living on alkali soil or 
drinking alkali water. We are in a country where, 
within a few miles, can be found farms of all grades 
from strongly alkaline, to those nearly free from 
alkali. Practically all of the soil from the Rocky 
Mountains to western Kansas and Nebraska has a 
good deal of alkali. Where it is not strong enough 
to form a white cru9t on top, it does not seem to 
injure vegetation. Some of the most successful sheep 
raising done in this country, has been accomplished 
where the only water available is strongly alkaline. 
In fact, our sheep feeders think that they are fortun¬ 
ate if they can get near some gully and water the 
sheep from the small, steady stream, rather than 
depend on the uncertainty of the river, and they do 
not consider the alkali in the water as a disadvant¬ 
age. Personally, the only objection I have to alkali 
water, is that it does not quench thirst. I require from 
two to three times as much alkali water as river 
water. It also tends to crack the lips and chap the 
hands. Outside of these minor disadvantages, I would 
be ju9t as willing to take alkali water as the best 
artesian well water. w. w. cooke. 
Colorado Experiment Station. 
To Purify Gas Water. 
F. C. F., LaFayette, Ind. —In our country, natural gas is often 
used to force water out of the wells, the force of the gas bringing 
the water up. In this way, the gas mixes with the water, giving 
it an unpleasant odor and taste. Could these be removed by a 
charcoal filter? If so, how should such a filter be constructed 
and used ? 
Ans. — A charcoal filter will purify this water by 
absorbing the gas in it. The absorbent power of 
charcoal is very great, on account of its porosity, and 
all porous substances possess the ability to decompose 
all kinds of matter by oxidation. One cubic inch of 
charcoal has a surface—including all its pores that 
will exercise this power—of not less than 100 square 
feet, and as it is insoluble, it is really the best purify¬ 
ing agent known. It is especially active in absorb¬ 
ing gases and decomposing them, but acts most effect¬ 
ively when finely pulverized. The method of using 
the charcoal is as follows : The hardest kind is to be 
chosen—that made from hardwood is the best. The 
filter should be a box or barrel, arranged as shown at 
Fig. 149. Shelves of perforated metal—heavy tin will 
be the best—are supported on cleats as shown ; the 
lowest one should have some posts under it for sup¬ 
port. On the lowest one, a layer of finely-crushed 
charcoal is placed, over this some clean, washed sand, 
and on the top of this some finely-broken stone or 
coarse gravel. These will help the charcoal consider¬ 
ably, for sufficient sand alone would have the same 
effect as the charcoal, but in a less degree. It must 
be understood that no chemical effect is exerted by 
the charcoal more than by the sand ; any finely porous 
substance will do the same by its ability to effect the 
oxidation of the impurities of the water, but the char¬ 
coal, on account of the exceeding fineness of its pores, 
exercises its action to a much greater degree than any 
other known substance. As there is, probably, no 
other impurity in the water than the gas, there will 
be no collection of filth in the filter to make its cleans¬ 
ing frequently necessary, as would be in the case of 
organisms or mineral matter suspended in the water. 
When this is the case, the filter is to be made so that 
A HOME-MADE FILTER. Fig. 149. 
it may be reversed and washed clean, by reversing the 
action of it. It will, of course, be necessary to change 
the charcoal at intervals, as when its action is per¬ 
ceived to fail. The box should be of some tasteless 
wood—spruce or white oak will be preferable—and a 
double coating of the iron and linseed oil paint inside 
and outside will make the wood more durable. If 
the water corrode the tin—which should be tried— 
wooden shelves must be used, or the salt of the tins 
produced by the action of the water may be unwhole¬ 
some. That depends upon the nature of the gas in 
the water, and whether it contains sulphur in any 
form. H. s. 
A Berry Picker's Ticket. 
F. B. H., Casky, Ky. —Where and from whom can we procure 
berry pickers’ tickets, record, etc.? I have heard that there is an 
improved system for keeping accounts with pickers. 
Ans.—M ost country printing offices ought to be able 
to supply these tickets. Some growers have discarded 
them, however. American Gardening last fall pub¬ 
lished a description of a tally card used by M. H. 
Ridgeway, which strikes us as about the best thing 
^hatwe have seen, and which we reproduce herewith. 
The picker’s name is written in the blank space, and 
the card is tied to the four-quart picking stand used 
by the picker. When this is filled with berries, the 
boss inspects the berries, and if all are satisfactory, 
punches out one space under the heading “ 4 Qts.” 
When work ceases, the boss takes charge of the cards 
and gives them out when picking begins again. 
When a card is used up, credit is given for it on the 
books, and another is issued. 
Substitutes for Timothy Hay. 
M. L. A., Massachusetts.— On page 219 of Tub R. N.-Y., Is a table 
of fodder analyses which I desire to know more about. I am in¬ 
terested in a farm in eastern Massachusetts on which milk is the 
only important product sold. We have a route in a village where 
competition is sharp and can be met only by an extra quality of 
milk. We have been feeding mixed hay, corn (on cob) meal and 
gluten with good results. No. 1 English hay sells for $17 per ton 
in the barn, and it seems to me that it is not at all economical to 
feed this hay to cows except a little for a relish. If we can sub¬ 
stitute the fodders for the hay, we ought to save about 1 y t ton of 
hay per cow during the winter, which will enable us to sell some¬ 
thing of a crop. I claim that corn and millet, with a little increase 
in 'grain ration, are as good as Timothy, and that oat hay and, 
especially, clover are much superior to Timothy without any 
extra grain, but find it difficult to make the others believe that 
Timothy is not the best. 
Ans. —We consider Timothy hay the most expensive 
food one can feed to cattle. Clover hay is far more 
nutritious and easier to “ balance” when fed with 
grain. We consider it sound economy to sell the 
Timothy hay to horsemen, and use the money to buy 
grain to feed with ensilage or clover hay. Some 
dairymen seed the fields most distant from the barn 
to Timothy, using chemical fertilizers. This hay 
crop is all sold and really pays the grain bill for the 
farm. All the stable manure is crowded upon the 
fields nearest the barn, and these are planted to ensi¬ 
lage corn with clover every three or four years. The 
cow food on such farms is mostly corn ensilage, clover 
hay and such grain food as cotton-seed meal, bran 
and other foods rich in muscle-makers. As a general 
thing, dairymen who use the silo are feeding less and 
less dry hay. In some cases, only three or five 
pounds per day are fed. 
On our own farm, we have no Timothy at all. We 
shall keep the horses this year on oats and barley cut 
in the milk and cured like hay. The cows will have 
millet hay, cow pea vines and the stalks of sweet 
corn, either put into the silo or field cured, cut and 
steamed. This fall we expect to seed down 10 acres 
to Timothy, using fertilizers entirely—the hay to be 
sold. Within a few miles of the farm, is the great 
Oradell Stock Farm, where hundreds of expensive 
horses are sent to be boarded. Mr. J. B Lozier, the 
proprietor, formerly bought large quantities of hay 
for these horses. Last winter, he tried the experi¬ 
ment of substituting corn fodder for the hay. The 
stalks answered every purpose, and the horses were 
kept in tine condition. We are certain that, by feed¬ 
ing oat hay, millet and corn fodder with ensilage, you 
can certainly save for sale at least one ton of hay 
that each of your cows is now eating. Clover hay 
cut in the bloom and well cured, is the ideal dry 
fodder for dairy cows. We put next to it the dry, 
well-cured stalks of the medium-sized varieties of 
sweet corn. Next we like oats, wheat or barley cut 
in the milk and well dried and, from our experience, 
we would prefer a ton of such fodder to a ton of good 
Timothy for milk production. 
What Does the Soil Need ? 
F. B. T., Visalia, Ky .—I have a field set to strawberries this 
spring, and I desire to gather the largest crop at a minimum 
outlay. The soil is what I would call a “ strong loam.” Barn¬ 
yard manure has been applied at irregular intervals, for the past 
30 or 40 years, but none within the past five years. Two years 
ago, it failed to produce a crop of potatoes; last year, it grew a 
tine, rank crop of fodder, but not much corn. I sowed Crimson 
clover late in July, a bushel to three acres, and had a fine growth 
to turn under this spring (10 to 12 inches tall). Would you advise 
potash, or phosphoric acid, or both ? How much, and when? I 
think that it must be lacking in something, from the dispropor¬ 
tionate growth of fodder and corn. 
Ans. —The soil needs phosphoric acid and potash 
rather than nitrogen. The fact that the clover does 
so well indicates that it is reasonably rich in potash, 
so that, probably, the greatest need is phosphoric 
acid. Use bone and potash, four parts bone to one 
part muriate of potash, or five parts dissolved rock 
to one of muriate. You may apply them now, scat¬ 
tering the mixture between the rows and cultivating 
it in. 
Possibly Peach “ Yellows " in Tennessee. 
J. M. G., Bradford, Tenn.—l have a fine young peach orchard 
two years old, on thin clay land. Last year, I had one tree turn 
yellow, and gum exuded from almost every part of the tree, when 
it finally died. Now I notice that the leaves on one near the spot 
are fading also. What is the trouble and what the remedy ? 
Ans. —It may be “yellows” that is affecting the 
peach trees ; if so, it is a most terrible scourge, and 
should be utterly destroyed at once, if possible. The 
first sign of this disease on bearing peach trees is the 
premature ripening of the fruit and a peculiar red 
mottled coloring of the skin and flesh. Small, wiry 
shoots come out along the main branches, and the 
leaves gradually turn yellow all over the tree. In 
any case, it would be wise at once to dig out and burn 
every tree that shows such symptoms. After this is 
done, other trees may be set without fear of con¬ 
tagion in the same holes where the others were dug 
out. h. e. v. D. 
When to Plant Evergreens. 
J. C. G., LaGrange County, Ind .—1. Which is the better time to 
plant evergreens—early spring while they are dormant, or in 
the latter part of May after growth has begun? 2. When is the 
best time to trim evergreen hedges ? 
Ans. — 1. The best time, in our opinion, to transplant 
evergreens is in early spring, just before the buds 
begin to swell. 2. About the middle of September. 
Cherry Trees That Do Not Sprout. 
D. C. A., Greencastle, Ind .—What stock is used for cherries to 
avoid the sprouts ? The latter are a nuisance with us. 
Ans. —The Mahaleb is the stock commonly used to 
work the cherry upon. It is a wild species of the 
cherry family from Europe, which bears a small, bit¬ 
ter and worthless fruit, but does not sprout from the 
root, and is hardy and vigorous, besides being of such 
a nature as exactly to suit nearly all our cultivated 
varieties when they are budded upon it. H. k. v. d. 
How Many Bubach Strawberries ? 
J. W. II., Mardela Springs, Md.— How many varieties or num¬ 
bers of Bubach strawberries are there ? Are they all perfect 
flowered ? 
Ans. —There is but one Bubach strawberry that we 
know of, the No. 5, imperfect flowers. 
