1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
533 
The Farmers’ Club. 
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piece of paper.] 
MIXING CROPS IN THE SILO. 
One of our readers in Vermont has crops of corn, Hungarian 
grass and kale, and wishes to know whether It would be safe for 
him to make ensilage out of the whole lot. Do you think it would 
be safe to put the Hungarian grass and corn into the silo together, 
and will it be safe to put the kale in with them ? 
Every year, we ensilo more or less of the larger 
Japanese millets, sometimes alone, more often with 
Soja beans, with excellent results. I prefer to cut 
millet into two-inch lengths and use plenty of water 
when filling—two or three pailfuls on each load. 
When mixing two crops in the silo, I put in a load of 
one, then a load of the other. Will Hungarian and 
corn be ready for the silo at the same time ? Why 
not put one on top of the other? If convenient, I 
should cure the Hungarian for hay. h. m. Thomson. 
Massachusetts Experiment Station. 
While I cannot recommend growing Hungarian 
grass or millets for the silo, yet, if it be cut at the 
proper time, before the seeds begin to harden, there 
is no reason why it would not make a first-class qual¬ 
ity of ensilage. It is of the utmost importance that 
it be cut while green and succulent, or it will not 
keep well in the silo. If cut at the proper time, it 
can be ensiloed with corn, with full assurance of 
good results. Kale should, by all means, be kept out 
of the silo. It would endanger the whole lot. 
Cornell Experiment Station. l. a. clinton. 
I have never put Hungarian grass or millet into the 
silo, considering them, like Timothy, proper subjects 
for haymaking. Nevertheless, if taken in hand at an 
early enough stage of growth, ensiloing might be 
more successful than curing for hay, considering the 
uncertainty of the weather at the time of their 
maturity. Kale would be about like cabbage or the 
tops of any of the root crops. American experience 
in this line is very limited, I think. Is not the pitting 
of root tops done somewhere in continental Europe ? 
Americans have been successful with refuse from 
corn-canning factories, also with apple pomace. So 
why not with kale ? If the experiment be made in 
Vermont, the result will be interesting. 
Connecticut. e. c. birge. 
We have had no experience with Hungarian grass 
for the silo, but know it to be of high value for soil¬ 
ing. We have made a mixed ensilage of corn and cow 
peas, with good results. Probably the best plan for 
your Vermont correspondent to pursue will be to 
mix the millet, the kale and the corn, by cutting a 
load or two of each successively, and mixing well as 
the whole lot is put into the silo. There is good rea¬ 
son to believe that a mixed fodder of that kind would 
be preferable for feeding to any one alone. 
Storrs Agricultural College. c. s. phelps. 
WHAT SLOPE FOR FRUIT FARMING? 
1. To which point of the compass should the land on a gentle 
side-hill face, to get the greatest benefit from the sun, for a gen¬ 
eral fruit farm, small and large fruit? 2. In what direction 
should the rows of small fruits and vegetables be planted, on 
such a farm, for best results ? 
1. Eastern and southern slopes are best for all kinds 
of fruit, except peaches and gooseberries, which re¬ 
quire a western and northwestern slope. 2. I prefer 
them north and south, as it gives the sun a chance to 
strike them on both sides. This is for all tall-grow¬ 
ing fruits. For all kinds of small fruits and vege¬ 
tables, it makes no difference, that I can see. 
Ulster County, N. Y. j. f. wygant. 
1. In my experience, with small and large fruits, 
the land should slope to the south or southeast. On 
the steepest part of the side-hill, I would set plums, 
peaches, pears and grapes ; at the foot of the hill, I 
would set strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc. 
2. I would set the plants on the side-hill in rows 
facing to the west and east, and cultivate only one 
way, that is, the opposite way to which the land lies, 
so as to prevent water, after a severe rain, from cut¬ 
ting channels in the furrows on the way down. 
New Jersey. t. c. kevitt. 
1. I should prefer a variety of slopes ; the southern 
or southeastern for early fruits, and north or north¬ 
western for later. I should expect to find more dam¬ 
age from freezing on the southern and eastern slopes 
than on the others. 2. Where the slope is sufficient 
to cause washing by rain, the rows should, of course, 
run across, and not up and down the hill. Wherever 
possible, I would run the rows of small fruits east 
and west, for several reasons. With raspberries, 
blackberries, etc., a row running east and west will 
offer much less obstruction to the prevailing west 
winds and, by bracing each other, will be much less 
damaged than where the wind blows across the rows 
rather than through them. An east and west row 
also allows the sun and wind to reach both sides of 
it, and dry off the dew much earlier in the morning, 
so that picking may begin earlier. I think, as a rule, 
that we set the rows of most fruits too closely, to 
secure the best results. As to varieties of fruits for 
different slopes, I would plant the peach, grape and 
early strawberry on the southern or eastern slope, 
and the apple, pear, plum and late strawberry on the 
northern or western slope. w. w. farnsworth. 
Lucas County, Ohio. 
1. A southeasterly slope receives the greatest bene¬ 
fit from the sun, and is, usually, most desirable for 
early crops. 2. I should say, run them in any direc¬ 
tion that will make it most easy of tillage ; I think 
it is entirely a question of ease of tillage rather than 
any other consideration that should decide the direc¬ 
tion of the rows. In ease of high-growing, thickly- 
matted plants like the bushy raspberries and black¬ 
berries, some think it is rather an advantage to have 
the rows run north and south, as the sun shines more 
freely into the spaces between the rows ; but always 
for best results, plants need planting at equal dis¬ 
tances each way rather than in hedge rows. I do not 
consider the matter of direction of the rows of any 
particular importance. j. h. hale. 
Connecticut. 
There are, in this vicinity, five fruit farms adjoin¬ 
ing each other. They have a good natural drainage, 
principally towards the east. The rows of straw¬ 
berries, raspberries, blackberries and grapes are 
almost without exception planted north and south. 
I do not think the matter of getting benefit from the 
sun is given much consideration. The best results 
seem to be obtained from planting across the slope, 
whatever the exposure may be. It would not be 
thought advisable here to plant the rows up and 
down the slope. The ground being a clay loam, it 
would, if planted in this way, wash during heavy 
rains. Other conditions, as a matter of course, might 
require modifications. In regard to large fruits, 
peaches ought to be planted on high ground. Pears 
do Pest on steep hillsides, regardless of inclination. 
If the hillside can be terraced, it will be of great 
benefit to this kind of fruit. Plums seem to like low, 
rich ground, and ought to be planted in clumps to 
produce the best results, and planted close together. 
Quinces do best on low ground. Planted close to¬ 
gether on places subject to wash, they will stop the 
wash effectually. wm. jackson. 
Madison County, Ill. 
1 find that all tree fruits last longer, bear oftener, 
and are more thrifty on a northwestern and northern 
slope than on a contrary site with, possibly, the ex¬ 
ception of the peach. I think a southeastern slope 
the ideal location for strawberries, raspberries, etc. 
I prefer rows running north and south so that these 
crops may have full benefit of the sun’s rays, thereby 
hastening maturity; all earliest small fruits and 
vegetables yield me largest profits. If the slope is 
abrupt to south and east the land will wash, and 
gully badly if rows are planted and cultivated south 
and east, and I usually circle with the slope. Land 
here with southern and southeastern slopes is not so 
fertile as that sloping to the other points of the com¬ 
pass, hence a southeastern slope should be well fer¬ 
tilized on these sites for most remunerative results. 
I have an apple orchard on my farm, 30 years old, 
which slopes in every direction from an elevated 
center ; on the southern and southeastern slope, only 
10 per cent of the trees are alive ; on the western, 30 
per cent; on the northwestern, 75 per cent ; on the 
northern, 60 per cent, and on the southwestern, 20 
per cent. I draw my conclusions from this ocular 
demonstration. With small fruits, long life is not so 
much an object, as these fruits require replanting 
every two years. d. w. dickinson. 
Fulton County, N. Y. 
Does Second-Growth Clover Cause Slobbering ? 
P. J. B., Dover , Pa .—I have a big clover field which has a very 
nice second crop. How can I make it into cow hay so that it will 
not make them slobber ? I have made some before and it made 
the cattle slobber. 
Ans.— It seems very strange that the second-growth 
clover should make your cows slobber, and we are 
inclined to think that the slobbering was due to some 
other cause. We have frequently cut and cured 
second-growth clover and never have noticed any in¬ 
jurious effects from feeding it. We shall be glad to 
hear from others who have had experience in this 
line. 
What Will Kill Out Dodder ? 
D. T. B., Burnside , JY. Y .—In cutting a piece of clover, seeded 
in the spring of 1896 with oats, I find numerous spots of Dodder 
that spread out rapidly, and will soon cover the whole field. How 
can I exterminate it? I have had no experience with it. 
Ans.— I know of no remedy for Dodder. It is but 
little known in this country, but at the present time, 
it bids fair to prove a serious pest. It is a true para¬ 
site. While it starts from seed, yet as soon as it gets 
well above the ground, it fastens to plants, clover 
especially, when it ceases to make use of its own 
roots, and grows entirely on the host plant. The only 
thing I can recommend is the growth of crops which 
can be given intensive culture. The Cornell Univer¬ 
sity Experiment Station is investigating the subject. 
They are in correspondence with the great experi¬ 
menters, Lawes and Gilbert, of Rothamsted, England, 
where Dodder has been a pest for years. If any in¬ 
formation is obtained which will be of value to those 
affected in this country, the results will be published 
in the columns of The R. N.-Y. l. a. clinton. 
Lime. Phosphate and Potash. 
W. T. C., Limestone P. O., Pa. —On four acres of sandy, grav¬ 
elly loam, mostly poor, I put 150 bushels of lime per acre during 
the winter of 1896; it was then covered with rye. I cut this rye June 
1, and plowed and planted the field to Red-cob ensilage corn. On 
one-tenth of the plot, it grew heavy, but much of it was light. 
During last winter, I put on about 15 loads of manure to the acre 
from the cow barn, and plowed about May 1. I scattered about 
150 bushels of slaked lime per acre, harrowed, and sowed 150 
pounds of muriate of potash and 200 pounds of dissolved South 
Carolina rock, and planted corn May 15. Owing to cold, wet 
weather, it did not all come up, but we replanted where it was 
out. We have a very heavy stand of corn, large in the stalk, six 
feet high, dark green and very promising. Did the lime revert 
the phosphoric acid ? In what way could I have applied these in 
better form or improved the treatment? We have Crimson clover 
on this piece now with five and six leaves. Would you apply 
potash on this clover ? 
Ans. —The lime, probably, reverted the acid phos¬ 
phate, but there is no great damage in that. The 
phosphate must be reverted in any event before the 
plants can utilize it. It is better to have an abund¬ 
ance of lime present rather than to have the phos¬ 
phate unite with other substances and form more 
insoluble combinations. We would not have used 
the lime with the manure on corn. We would rather 
use it in th6 fall when seeding to grass and grain. 
Manure is alkaline and, to a slight extent, will give 
some of the neutralizing effect of lime. We doubt 
whether potash on the young clover will help it— 
on that soil. We would prefer to wait until Septem¬ 
ber before applying it. 
Sawdust to Supply Potash. 
1. G., Sayinaw, Mich .—Does rotted sawdu :t contain enough 
potash to make it valuable enough to haul a mile or so ? In other 
words, does slow combustion produce potash the same as quick 
combustion ? There is a large pile of this material not far from 
my place that was made from Poplar and White oak mainly, that 
was sawed about five years ago. Is this good to mulch fruit trees 
with? Will it do for a source of potash for potatoes? Should it 
be sweetened by lime? Does it contain any other valuable fer¬ 
tilizer ? 
Ans. —The potash in such sawdust is hardly worth 
considering. In a ton, there would be not more than 
five pounds of potash and less phosphoric acid. The 
best use for sawdust will be as bedding for stock and 
absorbents in the barnyard and manure piles. If 
thoroughly rotted, it will answer for mulching trees 
and fruits. We would prefer to have it well mixed 
with manure before using it on the ground. Mixed 
in this way, no lime will be needed. 
Spring or Winter Wheat Bran. 
G. E., Mendon, iV. Y .—I asked the millers the other day at what 
price they would sell bran iu ton lots. They replied $11 cash. I 
was in Rochester last week, and asked the proprietors of a mill 
the same question. They replied $9 loose; that is, without putting 
in sacks. I understood that the other millers’ price was for 
loose, and I told them for what the Rochester millers would sell. 
“Oh!” said they, “that is for spring wheat bran, and it is not 
worth as much.” Is there any difference in value of the two for 
food for stock ? 
Ans. —In our own experience, we have found very 
little if any difference in the feeding values of the 
two -kinds of bran. We would certainly not pay $2 
per ton more for winter wheat bran than for spring 
wheat bran. Prof. E. F. Ladd of the North Dakota 
Experiment Station, says that his experience has 
been that the spring wheat shows a rather higher 
average value than winter wheat. An average of 
seven analyses for winter wheat and 10 for spring 
wheat is as follows : 
Winter wheat. Spring wheat. 
Ash. 6.60 6.70 
Muscle-makers.17.40 18.20 
Crude fiber.10.20 9.20 
Fat-formers.61.30 61.30 
Pure fat. 4.50 4.60 
Prof. Roberts quotes the following analysis of bran 
from spring and winter wheat: 
P’e’t P’c’t 
P’c’t P’c’t P’c’t crude Nitrogen P’c’t 
water. ash. protein, fiber, free ext. fat. 
Spring wheat bran.. 11.5 5.4 16.1 8.0 54.5 4.5 
Winter wheat bran.. 12.3 5.9 16.0 8.1 53.7 4.0 
This would indicate that winter wheat bran was not 
far ahead of bran from spring wheat, so far as the 
actual feed value is concerned, as determined by the 
chemist. We have found that practically the value of 
the two kinds of bran is not very different. 
Pruning Red Raspberries. 
J. W. S., Short Beach, Conn .—At what time, and how far back, 
do I need to prune red raspberries ? 
Ans. —The fruiting canes should be pruned early 
in the spring. Cut back the leaders and also the lat¬ 
erals, according to the vigor of the variety, from six 
inches to a foot—“one-third their original length,” 
according to our best authorities. The fruiting canes 
should be cut out close to the ground after the crop 
is gathered. 
