1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
6i9 
spring Flowering Bulbs. 
The bulbs planted outside for spring 
flowering will not go underground until 
the middle of October, but it is well to 
make some plan of operations now, that 
there may be no hurried uncertainty at 
the last. If it is an open fall, the plant¬ 
ing may even be delayed until early 
November, because, if we have gentle 
fall rains alternated by warm, bright 
weather, the bulbs may start into active 
growth, and make leaves that will soon 
be nipped by frost, to the great detri¬ 
ment of the bulb. 
The bulbs mainly planted in the 
autumn are Dutch hyacinths, tulips, and 
Narcissi. A deep, rich soil, well drained, 
well fertilized, and inclining to be sandy, 
is preferred by tulips and hyacinths, 
which should be planted about six 
inches deep and six inches apart. In 
many of the parks, the custom is to dig 
the earth out of the bed to a depth of 
six inches, place the bulbs upon the 
bottom, in the positions desired to give 
a good color effect, and then replace the 
earth over them. If additional manure 
be used at the time of planting, it should 
always be thoroughly rotted. 
When buying tulips for outdoor plant¬ 
ing, it is often possible to make use of 
mixed unnamed lots, which may be 
bought quite cheaply ; the disadvantage 
is that, in a jumble of early and late 
varieties, they will flower at different 
times, and thus prevent a uniformly- 
blooming bed. The earliest of all are 
the Due Van Thols, and these may be 
bought cheaply ; though small, they are 
pretty in a bed, both the scarlet and the 
white variety. Single tulips make a fine 
show, and a good selection would in¬ 
clude Artus, scarlet; Bacchus, crimson ; 
Belle Alliance, scarlet; Chrysolora, yel¬ 
low ; La Reine, rosy white; Yellow 
Prince, yellow ; Duchess de Parma, dull 
red and yellow; Pottebakker, three varie¬ 
ties, red, white and yellow ; Wouver- 
mans, deep violet. There are plenty of 
good doubles; Gloria Solis, dull red 
with yellow edge, and the red and yel¬ 
low Tournesol are excellent. 
When the bulbs are planted, nothing 
more is done until there has been frost 
enough to freeze the ground hard to a 
depth of two or three inches ; then a 
covering of spent manure or any other 
litter is put over the bed as a mulch. 
Never put this mulch on immediately 
after planting ; it is entirely unneces¬ 
sary, and may start the bulbs into 
growth. In the spring, begin to draw 
this mulch off the beds early, a portion 
at a time; do not draw it all off at 
once, and do not leave it on long enough 
for the leaves to push through it. This 
results in bleached, delicate leaves which 
are seared and withered by the sun and 
wind. By removing a portion of the 
mulch at a time, there is no check to the 
growth, and the leaves have a good 
chance from the first. 
Tulip beds are usually prepared with 
the idea of removing the bulbs after 
flowering, to make way forsummer bed- 
MOTHESS.—Be sure to use “Mrs. Wins¬ 
low’s Soothing Syrup ” for your children 
while Teething. It is the Beat.— Adv. 
ding ; but it is quite possible to arrange 
a permanent bed in the herbaceous gar¬ 
den which, after the tulips are past, 
may be gay with interplanted annuals. 
For a bed of this sort, some of the Par¬ 
rot tulips will be specially good. Few 
amateurs seem to know the exceeding 
beauty of this section, the flowers being 
flamed and feathered in brilliant colors, 
the petals twisted, notched or fringed. 
The true Gesner’s tulip, bright red, 
with a purplish black stain at the base, 
and Greig’s tulip, scarlet, purple, or yel¬ 
low, are excellent for a permanent bed. 
Tulips raised from seed do not show 
their true character when they first 
bloom. For several years, the flowers 
come solid in color, the plants being 
then known as breeders. After a time, 
the petals of these become striped, and 
they are said to be broken. If a tulip 
has a dark-colored margin round the 
petals, becoming lighter towards the 
center, it is described as feathered; if 
there is a dark pointed spot in the center 
of each petal, it is flamed. If the petal 
yellow with darker markings, it is 
Crocuses about the lawn, in sunny 
places. Their bright little painted cups, 
lilac, white and yellow, will appear in 
very early spring, and will be all over 
before it is time to cut the grass. They 
should be planted in clumps, rather than 
dotted thinly over a large space. The 
easiest way to plant them is to make a 
hole in the earth with a pointed stick, 
drop the little bulb in, right side up, 
and then press the earth over the hole 
with the foot. After the Crocuses have 
bloomed in the spring, the little leaves 
should be allowed to yellow and wither 
before they are cut off. Snowdrops and 
Siberian squills may be treated in the 
same way, or these little bulbs may be 
allowed to have a place of their own, 
near a shrubbery or herbaceous border, 
where they may be allowed to spread, 
in company with Grape hyacinths and 
Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa). 
Narcissi may be planted in October, 
selecting rich, deep earth and, prefer¬ 
ably, a slightly-sheltered spot. They 
are hardy and do not need protection 
from frost, but a little shelter from 
sweeping winds will be an advantage 
when they are developing their flowers. 
There is a very large selection of varie¬ 
ties suitable for the garden. 
is 
called a Bizard or Bizarre ; if white, 
marked with black, lilac or purple, it is 
a Bybloemen. A Rose tulip is white, 
marked with pink, red or crimson. 
Hyacinths are planted like the tulips, 
and treated like them as regards mulch¬ 
ing. They should be planted in a bed 
by themselves, as they do not look well 
mixed with tulips, the colors being so 
different. The varieties mentioned in 
Thk R. N.-Y. last week as suitable for 
indoor use, will be equally good for 
planting out. Baroness Van Thuyll is 
another good white ; Grandeur & Mer- 
veille, a very charming blush ; Chas. 
Dickens and La Peyrouse good blues. 
If snowdrops, Crocuses, and Siberian 
squills are to be planted, they should 
receive attention this month, instead of 
waiting as late as the other bulbs. They 
flower very early and, for this reason, 
should receive early attention. Plant 
them about three inches deep. A very 
pretty effect is produced by dotting 
The Modern 
STOVE POLISH. 
DUSTLESS, ODORLESS, 
BRILLIANT, LABOR SAVING 
Try it on your Cycle Chain. 
J. L. PRESCOTT & CO., New York. 
-V—VICTORIES_->■ 
FOUR MEDALS—3 Gold and 1 Silver, World’s Centennial 
Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, 1884. 
HIGHEST AWARDS—Nebraska Agricultural Fair, 1887. 
DIPLOMA—Alabama Agr’l Society, Montgomery, 1888. 
AWARD—Chattahoochio 
bus, Ga., 1888. 
Valley Exposition, Colum- 
and 
HIGHEST AWARDS—St. Louis Agricultural 
M echanic al Association, 1889. 
GOLD MEDALS antHrmPLOMAS-World’s Colum- 
bian Exposition, Chicago, 1893. 
HIGHEST AWARDS—Western Fair Association, Lon¬ 
don, Canada, 1893. 
SIX GOLDJflEDALS and Dipjomas—Cal. Midwinter Fair ’94. 
SILVER MEDAL—Industrial Exposition, Toronto, Canada. 1896. 
345,584 Home Comfort Ranges Sold to Jan. lst,’»7 
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WROUCHT IRON RANGE CO., 
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A well • made, 
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What Patrons Say. 
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AVishing to introduce our 16-page Illustrated 
sciui-uioiiihly, 1‘Aioi and Home, into every home 
" here it is not at present taken, we will send It six 
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we will send Tl.e Imperial Darning Machine,’ 
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than its immense circulation, exceeding 250,000, 
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adapt it to the special interests of all sections of 
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Subscribe now, and the machine, put up in a 
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“^'“hming this paper, FARM ASf 
HOME, Springfield, Mass., or Chicago, Ill. 
Two or three customers can 
compel any dealer to keep 
Macbeth’s lamp-chimneys. 
Does he want your chim¬ 
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Get the Index. 
Write Macbeth Pittsburgh Pa 
SAVE fc YOUR FUEL 
By using our (stove pipe) RADIATOR. 
With its 120 Cross Tubes, 
ONE stove or furnaco does the work of 
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TO INTRODUCE OUR RADIATOR, 
the first order from each neighborhood 
filled at WHOLESALE price, and secures 
an agency. Write at once. 
Rochester Radiator Company, 
27 Furnace St., ROCHESTER, N. Y. 
SOLD t 
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write Portland Mfq. Co. , Box 14 , Portland, Mich. 
FRUIT EVAPORATOR 
•‘THE GRMCHL’^SS?r«?TcS 
EASTERN MFC*. CO., 25T South 5th St., Phila.,Pa. 
WITS Whiskers, Plays, Tricks and Novelties ill. 
H lud| Cat. free. C.K. Marshall Mfr., Lockport.N.Y 
OUR RURAL BOOKS. 
Any Book on this List will be forwarded 
promptly on receipt of price. 
Accidents and Emergencies. 
G. G. Groff, M. D. What to Do In—Home 
Treatment of—What to Do ’till the Doctor 
Comes. Sunstroke, poisoning, broken bones 
cuts, bites of mad dogs, insects, snakes, etc., 
freezing, bruises, burns, choking, colic, 
drowning, exhaustion, explosion, suffocation 
by gases; what to do in storms, being stunned, 
wounds, etc.20 
A Fortune in two Acres. 
Fred Grundy. This is a sttjry of how a work 
man in a small market town gained inde¬ 
pendence and a fortune on two acres. 
Paper.gO 
Chemicals and Clover. 
H. W. Collingwood. A concise and practical 
discussion of the all-important topic of com¬ 
mercial fertilizers, in connection with green 
manuring, in bringing up worn-out soils, and 
in general farm practice. Paper.20 
Country Hoads. 
I. P. Roberts and others. Expert opinions 
upon laying out, constructing and maintain¬ 
ing public highways. Highway laws. Illus¬ 
trated. Paper.20 
Fertilizers and Fruits. 
H. W. Collingwood. How the Hudson River 
fruit growers cultivate and market their 
crops, and especially shows how these skill¬ 
ful men are feeding their vines and trees. 
Paper. . 
Fruit Culture. 
W. C. Strong. Laying out and management 
of a country home. Illustrated. Each kind of 
fruit treated separately. Injurious insects 
described. How to fight them. Cloth.$i 
Fruit Packages. 
A description of the current styles of baskets, 
boxes, crates and barrels used in marketing 
fruits in all parts of the country. How to 
grade and pack fruit. Illustrated. Paper..20 
How to Plant a Place. 
Elias A. Long. A brief treatise, illustrated 
with more than 60 original engravings, and 
designed to cover the various matters per¬ 
taining to planting a place. Paper.20 
Plant Breeding. 
By L. H. Bailey. (Cross-breeding and Hybrid¬ 
izing, revised and enlarged.) Contains the 
Facts and Philosophy of Variation; the 
Philosophy of Crossing Plants; Specific 
Means by which Garden Varieties Originate; 
Detailed Directions for Crossing Plants. 
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The Rural New-Yorker, New York. 
