1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
677 
force of pluck "and nerve. I would make a bag of 
heavy, closely-woven material, large enough to draw 
over the tree quickly at night, and tie it tightly so that 
there would be no chance for any of the “ hot-tailed ” 
chaps to escape. Then pour or squirt some benzine or 
carbon bisulphide (about a gill) into the bag through 
a funnel tightly inserted through the cloth in the 
top of the tree. It would be necessary to have a sponge 
sewed to the inside of the bag at the point where the 
funnel was inserted so that it might absorb the liquid, 
for otherwise, the liquid would run out on the tree, 
and it would be likely to kill every portion of the 
tree it touched. Either liquid mentioned would 
quickly volatilize in the bag, and the fumes would 
soon send the saucy wasps to their last long sleep. 
M V. SLINGEBLAND. 
What is “Parchment Paper ” ? 
There is quite a good deal of complaint in the market this year 
about the condition in which butter wrapped in parchment paper 
arrives. Some of this paper does not seem at all well suited for 
wrapping butter; in fact, it seems to be quite inferior. We would 
like to know more about thia paper, and why one sample should 
differ from another. How is this parchment paper made ? Of 
what does it really consist? Of what are the inferior grades 
made, and how is a farmer to know the good sample from the 
cheaper one ? 
Ans —Parchment paper is prepared by treating 
ordinary unsized paper with dilute sulphuric acid, 
and immediately washing out all trace of the acid. 
Paper so treated is found to have undergone a remark¬ 
able change; the porous intertexture of cellulose 
composing unsized paper is expanded and glued to¬ 
gether, as it were, forming a homogeneous surface 
which is horny and parchment-like ; it has acquired 
about five times the strength of ordinary paper, and 
it will become soft and flabby when soaked in water, 
to which it is impervious. The formation of vegetable 
parchment is due to a molecular change in cellulose 
when acted on by sulphuric acid, owing to which the 
substance is changed into a starch-like body, together 
with a swelling of the fibers, which thereby soften 
and glue together. In the process of manufacture, 
the ordinary paper to be acted upon passes through a 
vat containing dilute sulphuric acid, in which it is im¬ 
mersed from 5 to 20 seconds at a temperature of 60 
degrees. It then passes through pure water, next 
through a solution of ammonia to remove all acid, 
and finally through water again, after which it is 
dried and finished by passing between felted rollers 
and over heated, polished, metal cylinders. 
The best grades of parchment paper for wrapping 
butter are made from an all-cotton stock. Inferior 
grades contain ground wood in the raw stock, which, 
when the paper is run through the acid bath weakens 
the paper. Again, although the raw stock may be 
carefully manufactured, if the acid is not thoroughly 
washed out, or if glucose is used to give the finished 
product a soft, pliable appearance, the result will 
be that butter wrapped in such paper will mold. The 
best grades are so carefully treated during the pro¬ 
cess of parchmentizing, and so thoroughly washed, 
that there is seldom, if ever, any complaint from 
those who use such grades. The trouble comes from 
using poor grades of parchment, as well as from the 
use of ordinary unsized paper. The best parchment 
paper should have a clean, white appearance, and be 
free from specks. It should keep its strength when 
wet, and any paper which will not stand wetting 
should be discarded for wrapping butter. t,. a. 
Manure Shed Built With Leaky Roof. 
T. B. B., Newburgh, N. Y .—Is not an open roof, that ts, one made 
of up-and-down planks, six or eight inches wide, laid with wide 
cracks, perhaps two inches, a good practical solution of the 
manure shed question ? This would let through on to the manure 
pile a portion of all the rain that falls, keeping the manure 
damp, and preventing heating. If you approve of this, what 
width of crack for an 8-inch plank ? The point is to know what 
per cent of the rain to let through. 
Ans. —The plan you suggest of building a manure 
shed with an open roof has some features to recom¬ 
mend it. If constructed in the way suggested, the 
floor should be somewhat saucer-shaped, so that there 
would be no drainage from the manure pile. It is not 
the rain which falls upon the manure heap which 
does the damage, but it is that which runs away from 
the manure pile. In fact, one of the best ways of 
keeping manure is to put it out in open pits. These 
pits should be made with a cement bottom so that 
there would be absolutely no drainage from them. 
Frequently they are built so that whatever flow there 
may be is caught in a well from which it can be 
pumped back upon the manure heap again. In case 
you should build the shed with an open roof, as you 
suggest, we would recommend that a space of three 
or four inches be left between the boards. If the soil 
is clay, you can easily scoop it out and puddle it so 
that it will be absolutely water-tight. A good plan 
for the preservation of manures is to have them 
thrown into a large covered yard which can be used 
by cattle during the winter. In this case, it would 
be quite necessary to have the roof tight. 
L. A. CLINTON. 
Salt-glazed Sewer Pipe. 
R. B. A., Middlesex County, Mass .—Can salt-glazed clay sewer 
pipe, so-called, which is made in two-foot sections, one end of 
which is bell-shaped to receive the other end, be so cemented to¬ 
gether as to be of practical use for water pipes where a two- 
inch pipe would be large enough, the pressure not great, and the 
fall not over two feet in 100 ? 
Ans. —Cement well made is strong enough to make 
pipes for the purpose mentioned, hence it will be 
sufficiently strong to use as a joint. Mix the best fresh 
cement, American is good enough for this purpose, 
and the cheapest, with three times as much clean, 
sharp sand (this is important) in their dry state. Then 
mix as much as can be used in a few minutes, with 
water into a rather thin paste or mortar. Fill the 
joints as quickly as possible, taking care not to let 
the cement run down into the pipes. Smooth the 
joint over and go on to the next, not permitting the 
cement in the heap to get stiff. Mix only as much 
as can be used at once, and wet up only small quanti¬ 
ties. The joints so made will stand all the pressure 
that the pipes will, but it must be given time to 
harden, which will be 10 days or so, before the water 
is let in. 
Damaged Grain as Manure. 
J. McC., Havana, III .—I can get 100 loads of burnt and damaged 
corn and wheat for the hauling. What is its manurial value 
compared with stable manure ? 
Ans. —Average analyses of corn, wheat, and fresh 
horse manure will show about the following com¬ 
parison : 
Pounds in One Ton. 
Nitrogen. Phos. acid. Potash. 
Corn. 32 12 8 
Wheat. 42 16 12 
Horse manure. 10 5 10 
It is, of course, impossible to tell how much the grain 
has been injured by burning or fermenting. Either 
would drive off some of the nitrogen. You must re¬ 
member that horse manure is nothing but partly 
digested hay and grain with bedding and a large pro¬ 
portion of water. Such grain may safely be esti¬ 
mated as worth three to four times as much as manure. 
Smith’s Improved Gooseberry. 
A. E. A., Montpelier, Ind.— Willyou give a description of Smith’s 
Improved Gooseberry ? Is there any difference between this and 
the Houghton ? 
Ans. —It is a seedling of Houghton, the berry 
being a little larger, of a light green color. The 
quality is much like that of the Houghton, being 
sweet, and very good. The bush is productive, hardy 
and vigorous, and a somewhat more upright grower 
than Houghton. 
“ The Gilt-Edged Butter Compound.’’ 
Subscriber, Uonneautville, Pa. —What is the “ Gilt-Edged Butter 
Compound” to make two pounds from one pound and one pint 
of milk ? A farmer asked me about it, and I told him that it is a 
fraud in my opinion, and that I thought The It. N.-Y. had exposed 
it about two years ago. 
Ans. —We do not know just what this particular 
“ compound ” may be, but have no hesitation in class¬ 
ing it as a humbug. We have often exposed such 
claims. Most of such powders that we have had 
analyzed contained alum and pepsin. Their action 
was to coagulate the milk so that, when it was 
churned, the cheesy matter .united with the fat, 
forming a sort of mushy pot cheese. This might be 
well enough to use in order to save buying butter, 
but it is the biggest sort of a fraud to try to sell such 
stuff for commercial butter. 
A Cheap Lime Paint. 
E. B. R., Beggs, Md.—l am in need of a cheap lime paint and 
oil for a lot of old, weatherbeaten farm buildings. What shall I 
use ? 
Ans. —One of the most satisfactory water paints for 
rough woodwork, or indeed, for smooth, for that 
matter, as it gives a pleasing and very durable sur¬ 
face, is made as follows : Boil together three gallons 
of water and one pint of flaxseed, 30 minutes or so ; 
take it off the fire and add water enough to make four 
gallons. Let it stand to settle. Pour off the water in 
a pail and put in enough bolted gilder’s whiting to 
make it as thick as whitewash. Then add one-half 
pint of linseed oil; stir thoroughly, and apply with a 
good whitewash brush. By adding a small quantity 
of washing soda to the oil, and thereby producing an 
emulsion, the oil will mix more readily with the 
paint. Or the oil may be omitted by using double 
the quantity of flaxseed. 
Fertilizers for Asparagus and Peaches. 
II. L. D., Morristown, Tenn .— Wlieu would you apply fertilizer 
to a three-year-old asparagus bed, or a young peach orchard ? 
What amount would you apply, and what should each analyze ? 
Ans. —To asparagus, we would apply the fertilizer 
just as soon in the spring as severe frosts are no 
longer probable. To the peach orchard, we would 
apply the fertilizer a week before the buds are likely 
to break. As «to the amount of fertilizer, H. L. D. 
must judge for himself. It is a question of how poor 
or rich the soil is ; whether it needs phosphate, potash, 
nitrogen, one, two or all. It one does not know about 
this, and is willing to take his chances, we would 
suggest a fertilizer having three psr cent nitrogen, 
seven per cent phosphate and 10 per cent potash. 
This for either the peach trees or asparagus bed, ex¬ 
cept that, for the latter, we would increase the nitro¬ 
gen. One need never fear putting too much fertilizer 
on an asparagus bed. 
What Is the Sloe ? 
E. C. G., Medina, 0. —Wherein does the Sloe differ from other 
wild plums, and what is its value as a fruit? Gray, in his bot¬ 
any, gives it as Prunus spinosa, but where do pomologists put it ? 
The Sloe was brought to this part of the country from Illinois 
many years ago. The past few years, it has attracted some 
attention, and quite a number of trees and small orchards have 
been set out, yet I can learn nothing about it from Bailey’s bul 
letins or Kerr’s catalogue. 
Ans. —The Sloe is used somewhat as a dwarfing 
stocx. It is a thorny shrub about 15 feet high, and 
suckers too much ever to become popular for any pur¬ 
pose. The fruit is small and sour. 
A Kentucky Farm Rotation. 
Reader, Kentucky. —I have 30 acres of land to cultivate. I wish 
to cultivate so as to have at least eight acres of corn every year 
What kind of rotation must I follow? I don’t wish to use com¬ 
mercial fertilizer. The soil is limestone. What would you advise 
under such conditions ? How would you cultivate such a farm 
Ans —I do not know how our Kentucky friend is 
situated as to market facilities, or what help he has, 
or whether it is the permanent improvement of the 
land or present profit that influences him in this in¬ 
quiry, whether the land is rolling or level, whether 
the place is for a permanent home for his family, or 
a few years’ lease. Therefore, I can only venture a 
guess. He must rely upon clover for his mainstay, 
and the oftener he can get it into his rotation, the 
better. To begin now a new rotation, I would sow 
10 acres to wheat, and break all the other land this 
winter. Early in the spring, sow 10 acres to the 
Burt or some other good rustproof oats, sowing clover 
seed on both oats and wheat. Be sure to harrow the 
clover seed into the wheat, and not be too early with 
the clover sowing—the middle of March to April 1 is 
early enough if well harrowed in. 
In April, I would rebreak the 10 acres for corn, 
turn the land, and follow behind the turning plow 
with a good subsoiler that will loosen the subsoil five 
or six inches, but not throw any of it to the surface. 
Level and pulverize the surface; for this purpose, I 
have never seen anything that could beat the Acme 
harrow. Plant about (not later than) May 1. Harrow 
with a light harrow before the corn comes up, so 
that all little weeds will be killed, and give the corn 
the start of everything. Cultivate with a light har¬ 
row or weeder ; follow immediately with the cultiva¬ 
tor, or double shovel with small points, as deep as 
they will go. Do not let the plows go in the field 
again, but cultivate often, shallow and level. Be sure 
not to go deep enough to break the feeding roots. 
The corn will keep green and growing through any 
drought that may come, will stand up much better, 
and make much heavier corn than where deep culti¬ 
vation and root-breaking are practiced. When the 
shucks begin to turn yellow, cub and shock the corn, 
tying the shocks well with binder twine. If possible, 
it is best to haul to one corner of the field, and shock 
so as to leave the field clear for the plow to break for 
wheat. 
After the wheat and oats are cut, watch the young 
clover ; do not let weeds choke it out. Mow over once 
or twice before the weeds get too large, leaving them 
on the ground as cut. As soon as the corn is out of 
the way, start the plow, turning not too deep ; do not 
use the subsoiler. Sow the corn land to wheat not 
later than the middle of October. Do not tramp or 
pasture. Sow clover seed on the wheat in spring, 
always with a heavy harrow, if the ground is run 
together, or light harrow if loose. In February or 
March, see whether the stand of clover is best on the 
wheat or on the oat stubble ; whichever is best, break 
with the turning plow and subsoiler fos corn, and 
leave the other 10 acres of clover for hay. When the 
hay is cut, if cut early, he can get a good clover hay 
crop ; then turn the clover stubble for corn for the 
next year. A rotation of this kind, first corn, followed 
with wheat sown early, then with clover for hay and 
back to corn, subsoiling in the spring for every corn 
crop, will keep up and often improve the land, 
especially if all stable manure be saved and put on 
the thinnest spots in the clover field in the fall and 
spring and on the thin places of the wheat field in 
the winter. 
If I knew that Reader lived near a city or good 
market, I would advise some fruit growing and dairy¬ 
ing, which, with the help of the silo, will in a few 
years, make quite a productive and profitable little 
farm out of the 30 acres. I have just finished filling 
a 30-ton stave silo from 2% acres of large yellow 
corn, which cost less than $1 per ton to grow the 
corn, and cut it into the silo. To-day, I finished an¬ 
other silo of the same kind and size, that I wiU fiU 
next week from four acres of 90-day corn growing 
where I cut my crop of clover hay. The possibilities 
of the silo for the small farmer are really wonderful. 
Tennessee. j. n. mkboney. 
