1897 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
7 o 9 
passers and prove the offense in court. Some of the 
farmers advocate a law giving power to land-owners 
to arrest hunters without a warrant when found 
shooting on forbidden grounds. The impression is 
quite general that our game laws have been made 
more in the interest of hunters than land-owners. I 
presume that is true. We have a law in this State 
which prohibits setting snares, so that it is a crime 
for a boy to set a snare for partridges, even in his 
father’s woodlot. Yet public sentiment is such that 
I think a hunter would hesitate some time before 
bringing an action against one who should commit 
such a crime. A hunter recently said that, if he 
owned woodland and wanted to set snares, he should 
do so and run the risk, but not in the close season. 
In posting land, it is not sufficient to have the notices 
read “ no trespassing”, but they must say for shooting 
or trapping, in order to bring the special act to bear 
in the case. There would, also, be a question at the 
trial whether the posters were sufficiently conspicuous 
to protect the lands. a. w. chekveb. 
Pomace Flies Hard to Kill. 
B. B., Farrningdale, III. —What will drive the cider, or vinegar, 
gnats from a room in which are rotting apples, fermenting cider, 
decaying or souring grapes, and the like? I believe their pres¬ 
ence in a room hastens decay in fruit, much in the same way as 
buzzards are said to spread hog cholera. I have used insect 
powder, carbolic acid, and the fumes of burning sulphur with 
little if any benefit. 
Ans. —To the little flies which every one has seen 
about the refuse of cider mills, has been given the 
common name of Pomace flies. Two kinds of them 
have been described—the vine-loving Pomace fly and 
the pretty Pomace fly. Under ordinary circumstances, 
the Pomace flies feed only on decaying fruit in an 
orchard, and they may be found in any orchard dur¬ 
ing the autumn, flying about the rotten apples. The 
females insert their curious white eggs into the 
soft pulp of the decaying fruit, where they hatch in 
about four days. The little maggots feed upon the 
decaying pulp, and grow very rapidly, becoming full 
grown in about four days. Then four or more days are 
spent in the pupa state, when the parent flies emerge 
and quickly begin the reproduction of their kind. 
Thus many generations of the flies are bred in a com¬ 
paratively short time. These Pomace flies and their 
maggots often become a nuisance around cider mills, 
wine faucets, or fermenting vats of grape pomace. 
One case is reported where they did considerable dam¬ 
age in a vineyard by attacking grapes which had been 
picked open by wasps or birds. 
While these flies are not the primary cause of decay, 
they, undoubtedly, do hasten it when once decay 
begins. I can conceive of no practical method of 
keeping them out of cider mills, for their maggots are 
brought in with the fruit, and the flies are so small 
that it would be scarcely practicable to attempt to 
“ screen ” them out. Fumigation, to be effectual, 
must necessarily penetrate the pomace mass and kill 
the flies and maggots, as well as the flies hovering 
over it. The only thing that would effectually accom¬ 
plish this end that I know of is carbon bisulphide ; 
this would, necessarily, have to be applied in a prac¬ 
tically air-tight compartment. I can offer no further 
suggestions, except that much can be done to prevent 
their undue increase about cider mills, wine cellars, 
and similar places, by keeping these places clean, 
and especially by using care, and not leaving any 
decaying fruit exposed. m. y. s. 
Starting a Siphon ; How it Works. 
J. B. S., Tamaqua, Pa.— How can I start a siphon? I have an 
elevated well, 30 feet deep. From the well to the outlet it Is 560 
feet, and the outlet is 35 feet below the bottom of the well. Can I 
stop It off and tap when wanted ? 
Ans. —To start a siphon, attach a pipe at the top of 
the bend with a cock fitted on it; make a funnel to 
fit into the pipe, and closing each end by other cocks 
or plugs, fill the pipe with water. Then open the 
upper end, after, of course, closing the cock on the 
top, then open the cock at the outlet, and the stream 
will flow. As air will gather occasionally in the bend 
and stop the flow, it is necessary to attach this device 
to every pipe of this kind, otherwise to have a small 
pump fitted in the end of the siphon at the outlet to 
start the flow when it may stop. 
Every person using any mechanical apparatus 
should well understand the scientific nature of it so 
that it may be used with understanding. A siphon 
is a bent tube having one leg longer than the other. 
The shorter leg being immersed in any liquid, and 
the longer one being filled with the liquid, when 
the flow is started in the longer leg, the liquid, of 
course, draws up the contents of the shorter leg 
just as if it were a rope pulled from the longer end. 
This is due to the pressure of the air on the surface 
of the water in which the shorter leg of the siphon 
is immersed. The water in this leg cannot run back 
because the air presses on the surface of the water in 
the spring or tub, or whatever it may be, with a 
weight of about 15 pounds on each square inch. This 
is equal to about 33 feet of water, so that no siphon 
will draw water over 30 feet, because this height of 
water about balances the weight or pressure of the 
water, and there must be an allowance for the fric¬ 
tion in the pipe, over and above the weight of the 
water in it. Then as the air presses on the surface of 
the water in which the short leg of the siphon is set, 
and the stream runs down the long leg of it, the 
water runs up the other leg, and passes over the top 
of the ridge, and runs down the other leg, so contin¬ 
uing forever were it not for one simple fact; this is 
that all water contains some air, and as the water 
passes through the siphon, some of this air escapes, 
and gathers at the top of the siphon in the bend, 
where it makes a big bubble that prevents the water 
passing over. Then when this happens, it is neces¬ 
sary to force this air out of the pipe, and this is done 
by closing each end of the siphon with a tap or a 
plug, and by means of a piece of pipe at the top of 
the bend, where a cock is placed, filling this bend 
with water and forcing out the air. Then the cock 
is closed and the end of the siphon at the spring being 
opened, and then the other end, the stream flows 
once more until air again gathers and stops the flow. 
So that every siphon should be provided with a pipe 
with a cock in it at the top of the bend, and two 
plugs made to stop the ends when the flow is to be 
restarted. This needs to be done often in the summer 
when the air is expanded by the heat of the ground, 
but scarcely ever in the winter when the ground is 
cold. h. s. 
Wood Ashes or Slaked Lime. 
B., Rhode Island.—We wish to use lime on our land. The New 
Jersey lime will co3t us $5 per ton at East Greenwich, R. I. Which 
would be cheaper, this or the best a3hes at $10 per ton ? 
W. II. R., Hagerstown, lnd.— Can air-slaked lime and wood 
ashes be mixed and sown on land without destroying the good 
effects of either ? 
Ans. —In Bulletin No. 46 of the Rhode Island Sta¬ 
tion (Kingston) there is a careful discussion of this 
question. Prof. H. J. Wheeler estimates that average 
wood ashes contain, in one ton, 100 pounds of potash, 
30 pounds of phosphoric acid, and 760 pounds of lime 
and its equivalent in magnesia. The potash is worth 
$5, and the phosphoric acid $1.65, or a total of $6 65. 
With ashes at $10 per ton, this means $3.35 for 760 
pounds of lime, or .44 cent per pound. The average 
ton of lime contains about 1,900 pounds of actual 
lime. At $5 per ton, this costs .263 cent per pound. 
The lime in the wood ashes might be somewhat more 
effective on very sour soils, but not enough so-to pay 
for the extra cost. With 250 pounds of dissolved 
rock, 250 of high-grade sulphate of potash, and 800 
pounds of quick lime, you would have an excellent 
substitute for the ashes, and save the handling of 
700 pounds of “ bulk.” Air-slaked lime and ashes 
may be safely mixed, but there is nothing to be gained 
by doing so. It will be useless work. 
A Silo of One Thickness of Boards. 
8. W. 8., Collins , N. Y .— Is one thickness of matched Norway 
pine sufficient to keep out the air in a square silo ? Some in this 
vicinity are preparing to build silos in this manner. 
Ans. —One thickness of matched Norway pine is 
sufficient to keep the air out of a square silo. It 
should, however, be of the best quality of lumber, no 
shakes or second grade, and more than the ordinary 
care must be taken in its construction. I would 
recommend the construction of the circular tub silo, 
which has been frequently described in TheR. N.-Y., 
in preference to the aqua-re silo. L. A. c. 
Hand Separator for a Small Herd. 
H. B., King County, Wash. —Will readers of The R. N.-Y. state 
their experience with a small hand separator vs. shallow-pan 
cream raising? I have a small dairy of seven cows, and private 
customers for butter, prices ranging from 20 cents a pound in 
summer, to 30 cents in winter. But I have found cream-raising 
from October to April very difficult, on account of damp, rainy 
misty weather. I am thinking of buying a small hand separator 
to overcome this obstacle. 
Ans. —We have had several discussions on this sub¬ 
ject, and all sides have had a hearing. The separator 
advocates have, on the whole, had the best of the 
argument, and as you are situated, we should cer¬ 
tainly think the hand separator will pay you. You 
will find it no easy work to run it, and you will have 
to do the work at regular times. 
To Avoid Freezing of Water Pipes. 
J. A. M., Arkville, N. Y .— In what shall I wrap water pipes to 
keep it from freezing ? 
Ans. —Water pipes that are exposed to much cold 
should be protected in some way. If they are laid in 
the ground, it will be sufficient to cover them with 
dry planks raised a few inches above the pipes so as 
to leave an air space between the pipes and the soil. 
It will be better still if the pipes are wrapped with 
black asbestos and tar felt, of the kind used for roof¬ 
ing. If the pipes are above, or on the ground, they 
may be protected by boxing them and filling the 
boxes with dry sawdust or charcoal dust, but what¬ 
ever is used must be dry, for if wet, the stuff will 
freeze and convey the cold to the pipes, and cause the 
water in them to freeze. 
To Thicken Separator Cream. 
F. S., Hartford, Conn.—I saw in Tub R. N.-Y. some time ago, 
an article in regard to thickening cream. I think it was some 
experiment station that gave a process that would answer the 
purpose. What is the address ? 
Ans. —The article was a report of experiments 
at the Wisconsin Experiment Station (Madison). 
Write to the director and ask for the bulletin. It was 
found that lime added to separator cream thickened 
it or made it more viscous. 
Celery or Onion Ground. 
II. M. W., Livingston County, Mich.—I have several acres of 
marsh land along a creek which now furnishes a scant amount 
of poor pasture. What can I do with it to make it useful? It over 
flows every spring, and is liable to do so at any time after a very 
heavy rain. It is dry enough to plow at some time during the 
summer. 
Ans,— If not too expensive a job, straighten and 
lower the creek, ditch the marsh, break it up and 
subdue it thoroughly, and plant it to celery, or onions. 
It does not need to be drained deeply for celery, as it 
is, to a certain extent, a water plant. 
Best Varieties for Glass Forcing. 
A. U. M., Clinton County, H. Y.— What tomatoes, cucumbers 
and radishes should I put in a greenhouse for winter forcing? 
Ans —The most popular forcing tomato is the 
Lorillard. Others are Ignotum, Chemin Market, 
Volunteer. Most free-growing varieties force well. 
The White Spine cucumber is the sort usually forced 
in this country, but for a fastidious market, some of 
the long English sorts, which are almost seedless, are 
grown. Of these, leading sorts are Sion House, Tele¬ 
graph, and Edinburgh. Almost every grower selects 
some radish that suits him, but good sorts are Ne 
Pius Ultra, Carmine, French Breakfast and New Rapid 
Forcing. It is lively that the new Leafless would be 
good for this purpose. A round radish is generally 
preferred for forcing. 
A “Fake " About Peach Grafting. 
J. L. <?., Covington, N. G.—' The inclosed clipping speaks for 
itself : “ A correspondent of the Statesville Landmark writes 
that Mr. Asa Jones, of Ashe County, has a peach orchard that 
is something new. The trees are grafts on wild dogwood stocks. 
They are loaded with peaches this year. Mr. Jones says that 
they hardly ever fall to bear fruit, and that the life of the tree is 
several years longer than that of the ordinary tree.” Can you 
give any information on this point ? Is it practicable, and If so, 
what are its advantages and disadvantages ? 
Ans. —With due respect for the veracity of the cor¬ 
respondent, I am very sure that no such thing ever 
existed or can exist as a peach tree budded or grafted 
on the wild dogwood. The statement is either a great 
joke, fraud or delusion. k. e. van deman. 
Apples in an Old Peach Orchard. 
D. M. W., Quincy, Pa .—One of my peach orchards of 17 acres 
is rapidly turning to the yellows, and must now be pulled out 
entirely. I have marked over 10 per cent to come out this winter. 
It was planted in 1890. I have conceived the idea of planting 
apple trees between the rows, and eventually having an app'.e 
orchard. Is the idea a good one? What varieties would you 
suggest? I did this very thing with another orchard a year ago; 
in it, I have York Imperial, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Gano and 
Grimes Golden. 
Ans —It would seem to me that the apple trees 
could not do well among a lot of old peach trees. I 
would much rather wait until the peach trees are all 
gone, and start all the apple trees together, than to 
have them of various ages and sizes if planted in the 
old rows. If the apple trees were set in rows alter¬ 
nately with the peach trees, they would, in that case, 
also, have a very poor chance to grow, as they would 
be starved to a considerable degree, no matter how 
well you cared for them. h. e. y. d. 
A Neglected Apple Orchard. 
P. B., Clyde, N. Y .—An orchard of 225 trees has lately come 
in my possession. It has been set 30 years, and has pro 
duced comparatively little fruit. The land on which it stands 
was once an old still yard, and many hogs were fed on it, and 
it produced 40 bushels of wheat per acre. The trees have made a 
rank growth. For several years, the grass and weeds have gone 
back on the land. No stock has been kept in it. Would you 
advise me to keep sheep or hogs in it or plow it and cultivate ? 
The most of the trees are in very fine shape and are mostly Bald¬ 
win and Greening. 
Ans. —Neglect has been the bane of this orchard. 
It needs shallow plowing and cultivating thoroughly 
each season. Almost any of the modern tools that 
will thoroughly pulverize the ground for two or three 
inches deep, is suitable for this work. Not only 
should these tools be run over the surface often 
enough to keep down the weeds, but so often as to 
keep the ground as much like a dust blanket as pos¬ 
sible. This will keep the moisture in the soil that 
otherwise would escape into the air through the hard 
surface. Hogs are a benefit in an orchard, to eat up 
the wormy, fallen fruit; but there must not be too 
many, or they will bark the trees. Sheep are, also, 
serviceable, but they are decidedly dangerous, and 
need the closest watching. They will browse the 
trees as high as they can reach, a ad bark them, too, 
if they are at all hungry. They should be fed some 
kind of grain or forage, and allowed only to eat the 
fallen apples in making up a balanced ration accord¬ 
ing to their own taste. h. e. v, d. 
